Torbreck Vintners, Henschke Hill, Hentley Farm: Exceptional Barossa shirazes top mighty Penfolds Grange in new SA wine rankings
An exhaustive review of South Australia's best wines has identified three exceptional shirazes which judges believe surpass the iconic Penfolds Grange in terms of quality.
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Has the mighty Penfolds Grange met its match?
A
panel of wine judges led by the unstoppable Angus Hughson has given three Barossa Valley shiraz vintages perfect scores of 100 points.
In the same tasting they awarded the Grange 98 points.
High on the winnersâ list was Hentley Farm Clos Otto Shiraz 2022 ($290) made by Andrew Quin from Seppeltsfield fruit.
Quinâs masterpiece wowed the judges who said it was âa great Barossa shiraz of exceptional definition, density and resonance. Brilliantâ.
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The tiny, sloping vineyard above Greenock Creek was planted in the early 1990s by German immigrant Otto Kasper, who later sold it to Hentley proprietors Keith and Alison Hentschke, his next-door neighbours.
Mr Quin, 46, who studied winemaking in Melbourne, said the victory was the culmination of 17 painstaking years in the vineyard and the winery.
The precious grapes have to be harvested, in stages, precisely at the right time.
He may pick the fruit from the 3ha block three or four times depending on the ripeness using his own taste buds and the Baumé measure to gauge sugar content.
The next perfect score went to Torbreck Vintners RunRig Shiraz Viognier 2022 ($330).
It already enjoys cult status with Australian red wine drinkers.
The judges praised its âexceptional balanceâ with âintense dark plum, blackberry liquorice, mocha, (and) espresso notesâ and a palate that âfinished gravelly with persistent dark berry fruit and cedar nuancesâ.
It surprised no one in the wine trade that the third perfect score for a shiraz went to Henschke Hill of Grace Shiraz 2021 ($999) from a âlandmarkâ vintage delivering a wine with âwonderful definition, vinosity and torqueâ.
The judges swooned over the âlovely intense raspberry, blackberry pastille, mocha aromas with herb garden notesâ and the palate with brambly textures âsuperb blackberry fruitsâ and vanilla notes with âa kick of aniseedâ.
An exhaustive review of South Australia's best wines has identified three exceptional shirazes which judges believe surpass the iconic Penfolds Grange in terms of quality. Picture: Getty
Penfolds should not feel too alarmed.
The latest Penfolds Grange 2021 ($1000) has already won 100 points from critics in Australia and the UK.
And the firm has two other reds on the âbest of the bestâ list.
Mr Hughson, the publisher of the Vintage Journal, completed an exhaustive review of 1,300 of South Australiaâs best bottles to compile the South Australian Wine Guide 2026.
It is a wonderful digital resource with interesting essays on South Australian wine regions. And it is free to download.
Wine scholar, author and judge Angus Hughson. Picture: Supplied
There has been interest from China, so now he is working on an edition in Mandarin.
There was a fourth wine that achieved 100 points.
The old faithful Seppeltsfield 100-Year-Old Para Vintage Tawny 1925 was in the guide as âa wonderful expression of Australian wine history and ambition. A living curio to shareâ.
Mr Hughsonâs tasting team included Masters of Wine Andrew Caillard and veteran wine critics Tony Love, Ken Gargett and Jeni Port and rising stars like Shanteh Wale, Cyndal Petty and Lisa Cardelli.
Mr Hughson believes South Australiaâs superior position in the winemaking firmament is often âforgotten or undervaluedâ by some critics.
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âSouth Australia is by far the largest state in terms of vineyard area and wine production with a long and proud history,â he said.
âThe South Australian Wine Guide has been launched to rebalance the ledger and proudly put every South Australian region on a pedestal.â
Mr Love said: âThis year's South Australian Wine Guide clearly shows there is a thriving culture of provenance and increasing awareness of what each site and style of wine can achieve in the right hands. Every vintage brings more wines of higher quality than the last.â
Mr Love spoke of the âexciting trend towards contemporary drinkabilityâ across many varieties.
By numbers: No fewer than 62 wines received exceptional scores of 97 points and above.
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Of these wines, 42 were from the Barossa, seven from McLaren Vale, four from Clare Valley, three from the Adelaide Hills, two from Coonawarra, two from Langhorne Creek and two from Wrattonbully,
The Henschke team had four wines on the list of the top 62 wines with from 97 to 100.
Henschke Mount Edelstone Shiraz 2021 ($275) scored 99 points.
My favourites on the âbest of the best listâ include Elderton Command Shiraz 2022 ($150), Taylors The Pioneer Shiraz 2019 ($220), Peter Lehmann Stonewell Shiraz 2019 ($120), Jim Barry The Armagh Shiraz 2022 ($450), Bremerton Old Adam Shiraz 2022 ($60) and Chateau Tanunda 100-Year-Old Vines Shiraz 2022 ($180).