Winter in Japan for the non-skiing family

[ShelleyB]

Our aim was to catch the 5.20pm shuttle bus back to Yamagata, so made it to the bus stop by around 4.40. Queue was already quite long and we wondered if we would make it aboard. Oddly the bus came early and while we did just make the cut (in jump seats) many did not. But given the strange early arrival of the bus we wondered if there were ghost buses. Untimetabled extra buses which they run when demand was high.

In any case soon were back in Yamagata, which is known as the ramen capital of Japan. There are even posters at the train station and articles in the Guardian indicating the frankly ridiculous amount of ramen eaten in this city. Despite, it would appear that most of the local ramen restaurants close on Sunday nights. So after an unsuccessful hunt for ramen in ramen-town, we returned to Sendai for ramen. Here we introduced ShelleyB-son to the ramen phenomenon that is Ichiran ramen. A chain specialising in tonkotsu ramen but really it’s also about the solo dining experience. Ramen is served in individual booths behind a bamboo blind. Waiters whose face you cannot see take your written order. If you want something extra there is a silent buzzer to press. The whole experience is very quiet and could be totally silent if you wish. Needless to say ShelleyB-son loved it. Good ramen, and allowed to be on his phone over dinner.

 

[ShelleyB]

Day 20 and we were off to visit Chuson-ji, a world heritage listed temple. in Hiraizumi. But we before then, I should mention the breakfast at the Sotetsu Fresa where we are staying in Sendai. The breakfast is a buffet and while ok is not very extensive and has no components that change at all over the days we have been there. Probably most disappointing is the near lack of any fruit.

But back to the travel. Hiraizumi is easily reached from Sendai by shinkansen to Ichinoseki then either a local train or a bus to Hiraizumi. For getting there the timing worked well for a train. A quick stop to chat with the lovely people at the travel information centre procured us a map and a plan. Before the star of the show at Chuson-ji, we first planned to visit Motsu-ji temple dates from around the same time as Chuson-ji (around the 12th century) and was as extensive as Chuson-ji. However much of Motsu-ji has been lost by fire and neglect. Still we felt it was worth a visit and we were pleased we did. The temple is a less than 10 minutes walk from the train station. Entry fee was minimal - a few hundred yen- to the lovely grounds which include a large pond. The pond is real focus for the temple grounds, with buildings scattered around. One of the things we enjoyed most was these monuments to Matsuo Basho, a famous haiku poet who travelled these parts and wrote about his travels in the collection “The narrow road to the deep north” in the 17th century. The poem inscribed here is “The grasses in summer/all that is left/of ancient warrior’s dreams”.

 

[ShelleyB]

From Motsu-ji we walked to Chuson-ji. The walk is a bit longer than from the station to Motsu-ji, so for those who don’t wish to walk there is a bus. At the bottom of the path up to Chuson-ji there is a car park with a collection of shops and restaurants. In this low season only one restaurant, Isekiya, was open, where we ate some enjoyable soba.



Then back out for the path to the temple grounds. The path up is steep(ish) and lined with cedars. Beautiful if a bit slippery with the snow and ice. One Japanese tourist coming down took a slide just as we were heading up. I asked (in Japanese) was he ok (he was) but he responded in English. Apparently he spent time at the University of Queensland.



We made is safely up the steep approach, after which it levels out. There are views to south and west. There are numerous buildings, all of which are original. Most are free to visit, with only the museum and the golden temple requiring a ticket. No photos of either allowed I am afraid. The golden temple is amazing, well worth the price admission. The entire temple is covered in gold leaf, and is considered so culturally important it has been moved from its wooden cover to a concrete bunker and is behind glass.

We really enjoyed the whole experience, even ShelleyB-son who I was concerned might be all templed-out by now. The only thing to add was the main hall we entrance was currently undergoing some restoration, so was not looking at its best.









After we had enough of visiting Chuson-ji we tackled the steep path down. It had been snowing all afternoon, so the path was not improved in safety. Luckily there was a solid rope bannister, which helped a lot. The young girl desceding in front of me took a few tumbles but I suspect that was deliberate as it was usually accompanied by giggles. We all made it safely down and then caught the bus from in front of the temple path back to Ichinoseki as the timing worked better than the local train.

Dinner for our last night in Sendai was at izakaya Miraizuki. As it turns out our favourite izakaya from Hachinohe was part of a chain. As Mr ShelleyB was not with us then, we decided to have a meal there. And although it offered nothing new, was still very enjoyable and a reminder that chain restaurants in Japan are in fact very good.

 

[ShelleyB]

Day 21 and for ShelleyB-son and I we are nearing the end of our trip. Onto our final stop, this time at Nagano. The day started a bit annoying. As usual planned to send bags onto next hotel, but despite their assurances on website indicated could only send cash on delivery. This was clearly not going to suit the receiving hotel. There was a Yamato office nearby but would only guarantee arrival in 3 days. While I am sure the yamato person was only being super-conservative and it would have been fine, we decided not to risk it and live with travelling with the bags. Was the first time we had any trouble with luggage services. Of course, our trip would take us through the outskirts of Tokyo, boarding a train that would have likely already been boarded by other travellers taking space on the luggage rack. Luckily our luggage does not meet the definition of oversized, but it would take a bit of space at our feet. In the event, did manage to get space for Sendai to Omiya, but had to live with the bag at our feet from Omiya to Nagano. Ah well, got there in the end.

Arrived in Nagano much too early for check in. Miraculously though, there was a coin locker big enough for all our bags. So bags into locker, and back on the train to a local resort town, Kariuzawa, for some outdoor exploration. Karuizawa is a high end resort town surrounded by mountains and national parks. We were there to visit famous local waterfalls, the Shiraito Falls, which later in the winter will completely freeze. Not likely this early in the season though.

Karuizawa can be reached via shinkansen from Nagano, and then the falls via a local bus. On its way to the falls the bus goes out of town and past what are clearly holiday homes. These homes are used as a summer escape by the affluent of Tokyo. Previously the region was the playground of wealthy foreigners who built many of the homes in Karuizawa, accounting the very European and American feel of the homes.

View from the bus:



Once off the bus, we walked the lengthy path to the falls - all of perhaps a minute. The falls were sadly, but not unexpectedly, not frozen. But pleasant enough. Outside of winter there would be pleasant walking to do along the many trails in the forest. The falls are interesting as they are actually the source of the Yugawa river. Groundwater rises up here, forming these low but wide falls.

 

[ShelleyB]

After our short visit, back on the bus and back to Kariuzawa. A short wait for the train was filled in shopping among the high end stores near the station and a visit to the Moomin Cafe.





Then back to Nagano and check in to the Metropolitan Hotel Nagano. This hotel chain is owned by JR East and are often found directly attached to train stations, as was the case for Metropolitan Nagano. So an easy walk to the hotel and a quick check in. It was not easy to find decent and conveniently located triple rooms in Nagano, so here we booked two rooms. Not connecting unfortunately, but on the same floor. Our cost for the two rooms (a twin and a single) was 78700 yen (inc tax) for 3 nights.

Some photos of the twin room.




And the view (the next day when it was light). There are alps behind those clouds



For dinner we did not wander far and we were all tired. Steak at the Butcher Grill hit the spot before bed.

 

[ShelleyB]

Day 22 and ShelleyB-son expressed a wish to visit the Ninja Weapon Museum in Kanazawa. We have been to Kanazawa previously, but did not make it to the njnja museum last time. It was also early autumn last time we were there so we are also keen to see the famous garden, Kenrokuen, in a different season. Kanazawa is easily reachable on the shinkansen but we decided to go at least part of the way on a local line, the iiyama line. The iiyama line officially runs from Toyono to Echigo-Kawaguchi station, a trip that is just under 100km and takes around 3.5 hours. It is known for spectacular views, particularly in winter. However, none of us felt like over 3 hours one way on a train, so we travelled only as far as Iiyama station where we could pick up the shinkansen to Kanazawa.

The train was quite busy, particularly with some older Japanese people obviously off to go hiking somewhere. Many also got off at Iiyama. Not sure if they then took a bus somewhere. Would be interesting to know where they went. In any case, the views from the train were fabulous, with the Alps in constant view as was the river.







From Iiyama took the shinkansen to Kanazawa and a bus to the Ninja Weapons Museum. It was snowing on arrival in Kanazawa and it would remain that way all day.



The weapons museum was small but very interesting, and a big hit with ShelleyB-son. We were lucky that the museum was hosted by a very enthusiastic young man who explained all about the various weapons. The museum also offers (for an extra fee) the opportunity to try throwing some star blades at a target. I decided to forgo the experience, klutz that I am I feared I would hit the wall behind me instead of the target in front. However, Mr ShelleyB and ShelleyB-son both had a go and did well. No photos from inside the museum, as not allowed, but here’s the outside.

 

[ShelleyB]

After the museum we walked towards Kenrokuen. On the way there a cafe called CMS, offering fluffy Japanese pancakes, proved an irrestible temptation and we duly ruined dinner by having some.





The snow by now was falling very heavily but only added to the atmosphere of Kenrokuen, which was really looking spectacular. Kenrokuen is considered one of the best gardens in Japan, and is designed to be special viewing in all 4 seasons. We have now viewed it in 2, and think winter has been a highlight. However, we must acknowledge we last saw it only in early autumn, before the leaf colour was at its height. By the time we finished in the garden was too late for castle, but we have seen it on our previous visit, so not too disappointing.











Then back to the station, a little shopping, then onto the shinkansen. After those pancakes, no one felt like dinner, so shared bento boxes for the shinkansen was more than enough. The snow by this point was so heavy that the shinkansen was delayed by 10 mins (the horror!) as they removed snow and ice from the train before continuing. This did not even happen to us when further north. Apologies for the delay were made continuously for the remainder of our train journey. Ahh, Japan.

 

[RB001]

Many also got off at Iiyama. Not sure if they then took a bus somewhere.

Based on volume of services, most likely to Nozawa Onsen (North-East) or Madarao/Tangram (West).

 

[ShelleyB]

Based on volume of services, most likely to Nozawa Onsen (North-East) or Madarao/Tangram (West).

Sorry wasn’t clear. I meant the older Japanese who were off hiking. They also got off at Iiyama. But yes lots of skiers got off at Iiyama to catch bus to Nozawa Onsen.

 

[RB001]

Sorry wasn’t clear. I meant the older Japanese who were off hiking. They also got off at Iiyama. But yes lots of skiers got off at Iiyama to catch bus to Nozawa Onsen.

The area is also quite popular for snowshoeing.

 

[ShelleyB]

Day 23 and the last day of doing touristy things for myself and ShelleyB-son as tomorrow is just getting back to Narita day. Today we planned to travel to Matsumoto to visit the castle, the art museum and then watch the illuminations on the castle in the evening.

As the illuminations don’t commence until 6pm, had a leisurely morning before catching the Shinano line express to Matsumoto, a trip taking about 50 mins. While entering the station noticed the Iiyama line which we took yesterday was suspended for snow. Lucky we did not delay our trip until today.

Upon arrival we walked directly to the castle, which took about 10 minutes. It was notably less snowy in Mastumoto, although the temperature was below zero and did not rise above about minus 1 all day.

Like Hirosaki castle that we visited earlier on this trip, Matsumoto castle is one of the 12 original castles remaining in Japan. The fact that it did not join the many other original castles lost at the end of the samurai period was mainly down to a concerted campaign by locals. Lucky for us as it really is a fantastic monument. The castle is mainly black laquered wood, leading it to be also known as the Crow Castle. The castle environs are also very pretty. Inner and outer moats, gates, a vermillion bridge and the Alps in the distance.







The interior of the castle can also be viewed for a fee - 1200 yen for adults, 400 for under 16. Was probably the highest entry fee we paid for any monument in Japan but in my opinion still quite reasonable. At this time of year no waiting time so no need for timed entry tickets. But in warmer months timed entry tickets are available online and probably worth it. And a heads up for any visitors; it’s a shoes off place. At entry you are given a bag for your shoes and you carry them with you. Given it’s an unheated, open to the elements space, even wearing wool socks (as we were), toes were very very cold by the end. Also the “stairs” are basically ladders given their steep rise. And for home advantage in defending from invaders many also have a very high step rise of up to 40 cm. Climbing through the castle is a serious workout. Despite all the inconveniences we really enjoyed going through the castle. Well worth it in my opinion.

Views from the castle looking out.

 

[ShelleyB]

After the castle we headed off for lunch. ShelleyB-son was hoping for yet more Japanese cultural experiences and wanted to eat at Mos Burger, a hamburger chain like a Japanised-Maccas. We should have known better. Neither Mr ShelleyB nor I particularly like Maccas, and Mos Burger is no better. Sweet buns, too much sauce and a shockingly heavy feel in your stomach after. ShelleyB-son was not a fan either. So if you are on a family trip and your kids try to talk you into it, I suggest you stay strong and say no.

After lunch headed to the Matsumoto City Art Museum. Some of you are probably familiar with the work of Japanese artist Yayoi Kusuma. She is most renowed for her many sculptures featuring polka dots. She recently had a show the NGV in Melbourne. She was born in 1929 in Matsumoto, and the gallery here has a permanent exhibition. I was keen and the boys indulged me.







Anyway, afterwards was feeling a bit ick with a Mos-burger hangover, but a little black tea at Starbucks sorted us out.

I should also add that commencing tomorrow and over the weekend, Matsumoto is hosting an ice sculpture festival, mainly in the castle grounds. But today there were a few “taster” sculptures occuring in various locations, including by the station and at the castle. Here’s a horse starting to be sculpted as we went in for a tea.


And here is after we came out:

 

[ShelleyB]

And so to the final event. Throughout January each year the castle is used as the background for illuminations set to music. The illuminations commence at 6pm and go until 10 but are on a repeating loop of about 5 to 10 minutes. They are popular and for a good reason.

But first here’s more of the under construction ice sculptures.







And now the illuminations. Of course pictures cannot convey the movement, with the highlight a horse galloping around the castle walls.








After a few repeats of the illuminations, we decided we were cold and it was time for dinner. We did not go further than an inviting looking Italian place called Bang Bang (yes really). Lovely people and really quality food. I had the garlic prawns and they were spot on.



After an enjoyable dinner, back on the train to Nagano. Tomorrow Mr ShelleyB is off to Hiroshima (not included in this trip report, as would all be hearsay). ShelleyB-son and I are heading back to Narita for the 5.40pm JL773 to Mel.

 

[ShelleyB]

Day 24. Last day.

An uneventful journey back to NRT. Shinkansen to Ueno then the Skyliner to Narita. Our JR pass finished yesterday, so booked these tickets via the JR East website last week. When picking the seats could see train was busy. Assumed at the time it was skiers and so it was. Our train was all reserved but the previous train has unreserved carriages which were totally slammed. I must add the journey into Tokyo was not entirely uneventful. Fuji-san was kind enough to show us her face on our last day.



The Keisei Skyliner was also a bit busy, but we were still able to purchase tickets for the next departure.

On arrival at NRT had already checked in online, so just bag drop and away. Security a breeze although despite all my experience managed to forget to empty the water bottle of water (!) but luckily security had a liquid container for just that purpose.

As PE passengers we had access to the Sakura lounge. The upstairs dining section was totally slammed, but we were not particularly hungry. So we claimed a couple of seats downstairs which has drinks and some snacks but a good view of the apron.



Boarding was a bit chaotic, with people lining up and blocking the entry space before groups were called. Ultimately it made little difference though as we pushed back about 40 mins late. Not quite clear on why.

Eventually airborne though and right now am making use of the free wifi to update this report. Sadly tomorrow back to a stupidly hot Melbourne. Missing the snow already.

 

[Dmac59]

I thoroughly enjoyed this TR @ShelleyB
Thank you for taking the time to share your wonderful experience. As you will no doubt attest, Japan is such a beautiful country with so much to offer.

 

[ShelleyB]

I thoroughly enjoyed this TR @ShelleyB
Thank you for taking the time to share your wonderful experience. As you will no doubt attest, Japan is such a beautiful country with so much to offer.

Thanks. A summary of my thoughts to follow tomorrow.