Winter in Japan for the non-skiing family

Our aim was to catch the 5.20pm shuttle bus back to Yamagata, so made it to the bus stop by around 4.40. Queue was already quite long and we wondered if we would make it aboard. Oddly the bus came early and while we did just make the cut (in jump seats) many did not. But given the strange early arrival of the bus we wondered if there were ghost buses. Untimetabled extra buses which they run when demand was high.

In any case soon were back in Yamagata, which is known as the ramen capital of Japan. There are even posters at the train station and articles in the Guardian indicating the frankly ridiculous amount of ramen eaten in this city. Despite, it would appear that most of the local ramen restaurants close on Sunday nights. So after an unsuccessful hunt for ramen in ramen-town, we returned to Sendai for ramen. Here we introduced ShelleyB-son to the ramen phenomenon that is Ichiran ramen. A chain specialising in tonkotsu ramen but really it’s also about the solo dining experience. Ramen is served in individual booths behind a bamboo blind. Waiters whose face you cannot see take your written order. If you want something extra there is a silent buzzer to press. The whole experience is very quiet and could be totally silent if you wish. Needless to say ShelleyB-son loved it. Good ramen, and allowed to be on his phone over dinner.

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