Flying North to travel South.

[RB001]

This marker contains part of the Coat of Arms of Vienne. But we haven't been able to figure out its purpose.

View attachment 455594

View attachment 455596

Not sure how well/if it's currently maintained, but those markers line up with one of the trails on a map obtained at the tourist office - supposedly to the main sights downtown.

 

[OZDUCK]

Not sure how well/if it's currently maintained, but those markers line up with one of the trails on a map obtained at the tourist office - supposedly to the main sights downtown.

Thanks. That is one of the possibilities we thought of today. But couldn't remember for sure.

 

[OZDUCK]

Based on recommendations by both Flashback and Cambriamarsh we decided our second day trip would be to the 'medieval' village of Perouges. These were excellent recommendations. It is roughly 30 KM northeast of Lyon and has retained its medieval aspect because it was almost abandoned in the 19th Century. The population dropped from 1,500 to 90 before restoration work started in 1911.

Pérouges - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

The local train was unusual in that it was in a 3 - 2 seating pattern. It seems to be a commuter train covering feeder towns near to Lyon. Luckily it was very empty both there and back.





Crossing the Rhone on the outskirts of Lyon




You pass some serious infrastructure on the way there



To get there you get off at the small town of Meximieux. The station is called Meximieux-Perouges. You have to walk just under 2 km - uphill!



Just outside the station the local tourist office has set up a little information booth. Basically, you follow the dragon markers by the roadside. The dragon is the symbol of Perouges



1.7 km and only 25 minutes - yeah right. I think they got some 19 year rugby player at the peak of fitness to record that time. We did it in a touch under 50 minutes and even taking out 10 minutes for a bit of poor navigation on my part that 25 minutes was extremely 'optimistic'. You go uphill, downhill and then uphill again. About half the walk is on gravel tracks.




The markers



In Meximieux we passed by a public wash house built in 1880. It is feed by a spring





We kept going up and up and then I discovered I had led us astray at the top of steep hill. So we had to walk downhill for a couple of hundred metres and take the right path.

I am sure we are the right track - oops maybe not.



Then we had to go downhill again. The stones were uncomfortable and pretty loose.



Our first sightings of our destination

 

[OZDUCK]

We passed by a little stream that seems to be a good spot for fishing.









Then the steep ascent began. At least it was a very scenic, if tiring, path. We got a few light drops of rain on the way up but it soon turned in a lovely sunny day.









I was not resting just taking a moment to contemplate the beauty around me.



Yeah no way! I took the slightly longer ramp with no steps.



The view to a small chateau above Meximieux on the other side of the valley.

 

[OZDUCK]

Arrival. Only about 80 or 90 people live within the walls. There is a 'modern' area a few hundred metres away. The town is often used as a setting for movies and TV shows. You will note that power lines and TV aerials are conspicuous by there absence.



The first streets you see inside the walls let you know what a treat you are in for. However the cobblestones do wear you down a bit but of course they are part of the towns character.











The main square









The view from the town

 

[OZDUCK]

Most of the, relatively few restaurants and boulangeries were closed. I guess due to the recent holiday. We ended up eating at this place in the main square.





It was a bit like an old style country pub in that there was a salad bar that you could raid as much as you like. But the difference was that there was also cabinet containing various meats and terrines that you could also fill up on. All hearty country style food







I had a hot ham dish



And my wife had some confit duck



More of the town





St George

 

[OZDUCK]

Built into the walls of the town was this church - Saint Mary Magdalene - dating to the 15/16th Centuries. It is very 'simple inside but far more beautiful without the excesses of places like Notre Dame in Lyon.

https://www.france-voyage.com/cities-towns/perouges-1437/church-sainte-marie-madeleine-17968.htm

We took a different route back to the station. It mostly followed the roads and seemed a lot faster and easier than the recommended route. The first part was pretty steep but after that it was an easy walk.





Meximieux from the station



We just missed the next train but eventually caught one. It passes extremely closely by the river.

 

[OZDUCK]

Back to around Lyon. There are many monumental buildings in Lyon but it doesn't feel stuffy or staid.

Being of a certain age, 71, I got all excited when I saw this golden chook - cougherel. It is the symbol for Pathe film company founded in 1896. I can remember the old British Pathe Newsreels using the chook as well. The building is in Art Deco style - 1932.

british pathe newsreel opening scene rooster - Google Search

Many of the streetscapes are very elegant - Rue de la Republique



Formerly the head office of the local newspaper and built in 1894.



The old Palais de la Bourse (Stock Exchange). "The building was inaugurated by Napoleon III and Empress Eugenie on 25 August 1860."

Palais de la Bourse, Lyon - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

Lyon Opera House. Originally built in 1831 and rebuilt in 1985.



Back of the Hotel de Ville - 1652



Palais de Justice de Lyon - 1845



Museum of Fine Arts



I have a real like for trolley buses. These are pretty flash and are even fancier in that they obviously have some battery storage that lets them operate without using the overhead wires. Unfortunately I never got to ride one.

 

[OZDUCK]

We took a boat tour. The one we went on was about 2 hours and we went upriver on the Saone.

The weather started off ok so we could sit on the top deck but we had to go inside for the last 20 minutes or so due to a bit of light rain.



The Palais de Justice and the Notre Dame Basilica







Fort Saint-Jean

Fort Saint-Jean (Lyon) - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

Pont Masaryk - 1831

 

[OZDUCK]

A few meals

Firstly at a bouchon in the centre of town called La Meuniere that first opened in 1921. Food and service was excellent but it was certainly filling.

La Meunière | Véritable et authentique bouchon lyonnais à Lyon

Découvrez le restaurant La Meunière, véritable et authentique bouchon lyonnais. Consultez la carte des plats et des vins ► Réservation en ligne ◄

www.lameuniere.fr

Bouchon - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

Appropriately enough Salad Lyonnaise. Extremely filling in its own right



My flank steak



My wife had a Pike Quenelle



We shared a cherry flan




Nearby our apartment was La Commune : Food Court Lyonnais. Not just your ordinary food court. "La Commune is also a culinary incubator, a talent pool dedicated to the development of budding culinary project leaders." It is designed to give new chefs a chance to show their wares. The crowd there were mostly a lot younger than us.

We enjoyed our first visit so much we went again a second time.

La Commune : Food Court & plateforme événementielle à Lyon - LA COMMUNE

Découvrez La Commune, food court à Lyon 7 : un lieu de 1 500 m² réunissant un incubateur culinaire, une programmation culturelle et un bar convivial

lacommune.co

From the Afghan Stall



A variation of Ravioli



From the Senegalese Stall





Mafe Beef - Senegalese peanut based stew



On our second visit the crew at the Senegalese Stall were highly delighted that we chose them again and were extremely happy to pose for a picture. The cook, not in the photo, is the mother of the man on the left of the picture.



A selection of Fatayas

https://dinnerbydennis.com/fataya/

 

[OZDUCK]

Finishing off Lyon

The Old Town of Lyon is between the Saone River and the hill that the Notre Dame Basilica stands on.











Once the Lyon Stock Exchange and since 1803 a Protestant Church. "It was originally built after plans by architect Simon Gourdet between 1631 and 1653, then rebuilt under the direction of Jacques-Germain Soufflot in 1748–1750."

Temple du Change - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

Part of the University of Lyon on the banks of the Rhone



Some ornamentation on the The Pont de l'Universite built in 1903 and rebuilt 1947 after being dynamited by the Germans in 1944. We took these photos on an evening walk and shortly afterwards got caught in heavy rain. No worries we thought, we will put on our rain ponchos. Unfortunately we then discovered that our 14 year old cheap ponchos were no longer waterproof. New ones were acquired the next day - and barely needed for the rest of our trip.

 

[OZDUCK]

A couple of days before we were due to leave Arles I noticed that I had accidentally booked our departure point as Lyon Airport rather than the main, and central, station of Lyon Part-Dieu. This meant that instead of just a short metro trip we also had to take an half hour tram ride to the TGV station at the airport. Luckily enough despite the extra cost for the tram it was actually a cheaper total fare than from Part-Dieu. The airport tram has caused some controversy in Lyon. It is privately operated and there have been lots of complaints about the cost. The normal cost is €16 one way.

Actually this brings me to the metro in Lyon. It only opened in 1947 and currently runs small driverless trams at often very short intervals of less than 5 minutes in peak periods. Standing at the front of the tram - no driver compartment - you can sometimes see two trams further in front of you. Unfortunately the designer of these driverless trams apparently went to Singapore to study the programming of their driverless trams and then did everything in the opposite way. These trains shake and shudder and stop, start, brake and accelerate in as rough as manner as possible.

You catch it just outside Part Dieu.



It is more comfortable than a normal tram and has baggage racks and flight information screens.





You are dropped underneath the Lyon-Saint-Exupéry TGV station. Considering it is mostly concrete the station is actually quite attractive and is very well maintained. It certainly wasn't very busy the morning we were there.



We had a quick snack at this Paul's



The walkway above the tracks has a sort of futuristic feel. The station was opened in 1994.

 

[OZDUCK]

We then headed off to Arles. From this train onwards English announcements disappeared and didn't appear again until the TGV Station at Disneyland - one stop from CGD. There were the occasional recorded announcement about not leaving bags on board and the like. But no informative announcements were made in English. This was especially noticeable on the Intercités as there were often a number of 5 minute long announcements made.

We were again on the top floor of a pretty comfortable TGV. This was pretty much the last really comfortable long distance train we rode in France. The Intercités trains are fairly basic and the TGV we got from Bordeaux to CDG seemed very old and was cramped even in first class.

When we got on board a very dignified elderly man was sitting in my seat and, somehow politely, ignored me. Luckily there were plenty of other seats and he got off at the next stop so I reclaimed my own seat before the train got busier.





It was again a very scenic trip as we floated over the rails







Cruas Nuclear Power Station on the Rhone

Cruas Nuclear Power Plant - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

Avignon. We would be back here in a few days



The land between Avignon and Arles was often pretty barren with straggly vegetation


The not very impressive station at Arles



Our first view inside the walls of of Arles. The city instantly impressed you. My wife says that it was her favourite place we visited on this trip.

 

[OZDUCK]

My wife says that Arles "stole her heart" and it is easy to see why. It is a lovely town with lots of fantastic sights to see.

Van Gogh seemed to be of the same opinion



His impression of the same spot



Our apartment was well and truly in the old town.

Up this street



Turn into this impasse





And into our door



It was very well equipped





Complete with a cellar to keep the performing monkey happy





If there is a mixed group skirts could be problematical



However we wouldn't stay there again. Not because it wasn't nice or good value but just because after 5 days our knees were beginning to tire of the steep staircases. Also I found most of the furniture too low.

Down to the cellar - my head was in serious danger.



Down from the bedroom



However you walk out of apartment turn left and then right and in 30 metres you see this bit of history

 

[OZDUCK]

There is so much to see in Arles that I will mostly break it up into various locations. We bought a relatively cheap pass that gave access to a number of historic sites and museums/art galleries.



Firstly - the Roman Amphitheater. Built in 90 AD with a seating capacity of 21,000. "Today, it remains vibrant, hosting bullfights, performances, and concerts while offering a fascinating glimpse into Roman life. This amphitheater has been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1981."

Amphitheater Arles France | Arles-guide.com

Visit the Arles Amphitheater, a UNESCO site in Provence. Explore its grand Roman architecture, rich history. Find ticket today!

www.arles-guide.com

The square towers surmounting the amphitheater were added in the Middle Ages when it was turned into fortress.

 

[kookaburra75]

My wife says that Arles "stole her heart" and it is easy to see why. It is a lovely town with lots of fantastic sights to see.

Van Gogh seemed to be of the same opinion

We too loved Arles and will certainly go back when we do our post-retirement Grande Tour. We travelled in the opposite direction with the trains, starting in Arles, and then Avignon, and then onto Lyon later - using the local trains. We used the TGV to get to Paris.

We're loving the photos and your information as it's giving us great ideas for our return - it's greatly appreciated.

 

[OZDUCK]

Moving inside.

When we visited the Rome Colosseum, many, many, years ago, my wife was very uneasy and thought there was an atmosphere of horror and tragedy in the stones - my words. I am too dull witted to have felt anything like that. She says that she felt nothing like this at Arles. Perhaps not enough lions used or perhaps because it is still used as part of the community activities rather than just standing mute as a monument.

Set up for bullfighting - I think









A group of schoolkids were being shown how gladiators fought by people dressed in 'Roman Clothes'. My wife and I were most disappointed that the kids were always kept a few metres away from each other and not allowed to engage in a melee.

 

[OZDUCK]

We climbed up one of the towers



And got a good view over the arena and surrounds











In the distance are the remains of Montmajour Abbey - "a fortified Benedictine monastery built between the 10th and 18th centuries on what was originally an island five kilometers north of Arles"

Montmajour Abbey - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

Vandalism from the past. Nothing much has really changed over the years





A bit of a juxtaposition. Looking at the top a Frank Gehry building from the top of a Roman relic



There was evidence of things much more ancient than the Romans

 

[RB001]

Set up for bullfighting - I think

This year, from 11 July to 22 August (6pm Wednesdays and Fridays), they have Camargue Bull Races. Described as: "... a sport in which participants attempt to catch prize-winning attributes attached to the forehead and horns. There's no kill involved in this sporting game.
Agility, speed and thrills: guaranteed spectacle!"

On a couple of (other) days of the week they have the gladiator "school" that you saw, and staged demonstrations.
The town goes all out 18-23 August this year for the annual Arelate Festival - Roman Days.

 

[ellen10]

I just read in another thread that you damaged your right toe.

It certainly didn't stop you from all that walking and climbing of many stairs, towers and lookouts. Very impressed!