Flying North to travel South.

Not sure how well/if it's currently maintained, but those markers line up with one of the trails on a map obtained at the tourist office - supposedly to the main sights downtown.
Thanks. That is one of the possibilities we thought of today. But couldn't remember for sure.
 
Based on recommendations by both Flashback and Cambriamarsh we decided our second day trip would be to the 'medieval' village of Perouges. These were excellent recommendations. It is roughly 30 KM northeast of Lyon and has retained its medieval aspect because it was almost abandoned in the 19th Century. The population dropped from 1,500 to 90 before restoration work started in 1911.


The local train was unusual in that it was in a 3 - 2 seating pattern. It seems to be a commuter train covering feeder towns near to Lyon. Luckily it was very empty both there and back.

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Crossing the Rhone on the outskirts of Lyon

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You pass some serious infrastructure on the way there

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To get there you get off at the small town of Meximieux. The station is called Meximieux-Perouges. You have to walk just under 2 km - uphill!

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Just outside the station the local tourist office has set up a little information booth. Basically, you follow the dragon markers by the roadside. The dragon is the symbol of Perouges

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1.7 km and only 25 minutes - yeah right. I think they got some 19 year rugby player at the peak of fitness to record that time. We did it in a touch under 50 minutes and even taking out 10 minutes for a bit of poor navigation on my part that 25 minutes was extremely 'optimistic'. You go uphill, downhill and then uphill again. About half the walk is on gravel tracks.


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The markers

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In Meximieux we passed by a public wash house built in 1880. It is feed by a spring

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We kept going up and up and then I discovered I had led us astray at the top of steep hill. So we had to walk downhill for a couple of hundred metres and take the right path.

I am sure we are the right track - oops maybe not.

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Then we had to go downhill again. The stones were uncomfortable and pretty loose.

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Our first sightings of our destination

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We passed by a little stream that seems to be a good spot for fishing.

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Then the steep ascent began. At least it was a very scenic, if tiring, path. We got a few light drops of rain on the way up but it soon turned in a lovely sunny day.

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I was not resting just taking a moment to contemplate the beauty around me.

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Yeah no way! I took the slightly longer ramp with no steps.

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The view to a small chateau above Meximieux on the other side of the valley.

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Arrival. Only about 80 or 90 people live within the walls. There is a 'modern' area a few hundred metres away. The town is often used as a setting for movies and TV shows. You will note that power lines and TV aerials are conspicuous by there absence.

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The first streets you see inside the walls let you know what a treat you are in for. However the cobblestones do wear you down a bit but of course they are part of the towns character.

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The main square

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The view from the town

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Most of the, relatively few restaurants and boulangeries were closed. I guess due to the recent holiday. We ended up eating at this place in the main square.

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It was a bit like an old style country pub in that there was a salad bar that you could raid as much as you like. But the difference was that there was also cabinet containing various meats and terrines that you could also fill up on. All hearty country style food

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I had a hot ham dish

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And my wife had some confit duck

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More of the town

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St George

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Built into the walls of the town was this church - Saint Mary Magdalene - dating to the 15/16th Centuries. It is very 'simple inside but far more beautiful without the excesses of places like Notre Dame in Lyon.


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We took a different route back to the station. It mostly followed the roads and seemed a lot faster and easier than the recommended route. The first part was pretty steep but after that it was an easy walk.

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Meximieux from the station

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We just missed the next train but eventually caught one. It passes extremely closely by the river.

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Back to around Lyon. There are many monumental buildings in Lyon but it doesn't feel stuffy or staid.

Being of a certain age, 71, I got all excited when I saw this golden chook - cougherel. It is the symbol for Pathe film company founded in 1896. I can remember the old British Pathe Newsreels using the chook as well. The building is in Art Deco style - 1932.


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Many of the streetscapes are very elegant - Rue de la Republique

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Formerly the head office of the local newspaper and built in 1894.

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The old Palais de la Bourse (Stock Exchange). "The building was inaugurated by Napoleon III and Empress Eugenie on 25 August 1860."


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Lyon Opera House. Originally built in 1831 and rebuilt in 1985.

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Back of the Hotel de Ville - 1652

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Palais de Justice de Lyon - 1845

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Museum of Fine Arts

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I have a real like for trolley buses. These are pretty flash and are even fancier in that they obviously have some battery storage that lets them operate without using the overhead wires. Unfortunately I never got to ride one.

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We took a boat tour. The one we went on was about 2 hours and we went upriver on the Saone.

The weather started off ok so we could sit on the top deck but we had to go inside for the last 20 minutes or so due to a bit of light rain.

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The Palais de Justice and the Notre Dame Basilica



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Fort Saint-Jean


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Pont Masaryk - 1831

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A few meals

Firstly at a bouchon in the centre of town called La Meuniere that first opened in 1921. Food and service was excellent but it was certainly filling.



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Appropriately enough Salad Lyonnaise. Extremely filling in its own right

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My flank steak

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My wife had a Pike Quenelle

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We shared a cherry flan

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Nearby our apartment was La Commune : Food Court Lyonnais. Not just your ordinary food court. "La Commune is also a culinary incubator, a talent pool dedicated to the development of budding culinary project leaders." It is designed to give new chefs a chance to show their wares. The crowd there were mostly a lot younger than us.

We enjoyed our first visit so much we went again a second time.


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From the Afghan Stall

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A variation of Ravioli

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From the Senegalese Stall

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Mafe Beef - Senegalese peanut based stew

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On our second visit the crew at the Senegalese Stall were highly delighted that we chose them again and were extremely happy to pose for a picture. The cook, not in the photo, is the mother of the man on the left of the picture.

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A selection of Fatayas


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Finishing off Lyon

The Old Town of Lyon is between the Saone River and the hill that the Notre Dame Basilica stands on.

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Once the Lyon Stock Exchange and since 1803 a Protestant Church. "It was originally built after plans by architect Simon Gourdet between 1631 and 1653, then rebuilt under the direction of Jacques-Germain Soufflot in 1748–1750."


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Part of the University of Lyon on the banks of the Rhone

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Some ornamentation on the The Pont de l'Universite built in 1903 and rebuilt 1947 after being dynamited by the Germans in 1944. We took these photos on an evening walk and shortly afterwards got caught in heavy rain. No worries we thought, we will put on our rain ponchos. Unfortunately we then discovered that our 14 year old cheap ponchos were no longer waterproof. New ones were acquired the next day - and barely needed for the rest of our trip.

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A couple of days before we were due to leave Arles I noticed that I had accidentally booked our departure point as Lyon Airport rather than the main, and central, station of Lyon Part-Dieu. This meant that instead of just a short metro trip we also had to take an half hour tram ride to the TGV station at the airport. Luckily enough despite the extra cost for the tram it was actually a cheaper total fare than from Part-Dieu. The airport tram has caused some controversy in Lyon. It is privately operated and there have been lots of complaints about the cost. The normal cost is €16 one way.

Actually this brings me to the metro in Lyon. It only opened in 1947 and currently runs small driverless trams at often very short intervals of less than 5 minutes in peak periods. Standing at the front of the tram - no driver compartment - you can sometimes see two trams further in front of you. Unfortunately the designer of these driverless trams apparently went to Singapore to study the programming of their driverless trams and then did everything in the opposite way. These trains shake and shudder and stop, start, brake and accelerate in as rough as manner as possible.

You catch it just outside Part Dieu.

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It is more comfortable than a normal tram and has baggage racks and flight information screens.

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You are dropped underneath the Lyon-Saint-Exupéry TGV station. Considering it is mostly concrete the station is actually quite attractive and is very well maintained. It certainly wasn't very busy the morning we were there.

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We had a quick snack at this Paul's

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The walkway above the tracks has a sort of futuristic feel. The station was opened in 1994.

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We then headed off to Arles. From this train onwards English announcements disappeared and didn't appear again until the TGV Station at Disneyland - one stop from CGD. There were the occasional recorded announcement about not leaving bags on board and the like. But no informative announcements were made in English. This was especially noticeable on the Intercités as there were often a number of 5 minute long announcements made.

We were again on the top floor of a pretty comfortable TGV. This was pretty much the last really comfortable long distance train we rode in France. The Intercités trains are fairly basic and the TGV we got from Bordeaux to CDG seemed very old and was cramped even in first class.

When we got on board a very dignified elderly man was sitting in my seat and, somehow politely, ignored me. Luckily there were plenty of other seats and he got off at the next stop so I reclaimed my own seat before the train got busier.

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It was again a very scenic trip as we floated over the rails

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Cruas Nuclear Power Station on the Rhone


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Avignon. We would be back here in a few days

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The land between Avignon and Arles was often pretty barren with straggly vegetation
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The not very impressive station at Arles

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Our first view inside the walls of of Arles. The city instantly impressed you. My wife says that it was her favourite place we visited on this trip.

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