Berlin - in a word, Sensational.
I guess it helped that I had two brilliant tour guides. But lets start at the beginning of the chapter.
On the train from Innsbruck I was searched for drugs. Again. Serious, open your bags, look inside your wallet, phone up to check your passport isn't hot, searched. Of course with nothing to declare the guy eventually gave up - but it freaked out the other guy in the cabin - a 20 year old American on his first OS trip, who not ten minutes earlier had commented how nobody had even asked to see out tickets. He got searched too. Welcome to Germany.
Once in Berlin, and settled with my lovely host Angie and Guide Extrordinaire Tanya, we quickly adopted a routine - go out all night to weird and wonderful bars, gigs and venues, stumble into bed, sleep until lunchtime, ride around on bikes looking at historically significant sites, eat, then go back to the first step again. On my first night, Angie surprised me with tickets to The Cardigans, in a converted disused railway station (I think), then we went out drinking (look for a theme here). We managed to go to somewhere different and exciting every night. Towards the end of the week we also saw The Concretes, who were awesome. Eight members, about twenty instruments on stage and every song different. Add to the 'must buy' list. Both those bands are Swedish ... go figure. Along the way we also saw a Greek funk band, had to hide from some dreadful German punk music, and danced to some decidedly dodgy tunes.
Another highlight was seeing a Bundesliga game between Hertha BSC and Dortmund (unfortunately a 0-0 draw) in the Olympiastadiom, home of the upcoming World Cup final as well as the 1936 Olympics. 65,662 people in the place and a champion atmosphere. Just remember when you watch the game on TV, I was there!
Add to that the chance to drive on the wrong side of the road - which the locals call right but I know they're wrong if it's not the left - at five in the morning after an extensive night out, drink German beer, meet some cool people, and I really love this city.