A short stint in Saudi (and QR Doha Stopover)

[jase05]

This today from the BBC.

Saudi Arabia is lifting the alcohol ban for wealthy foreigners

Saudi Arabia has started to allow wealthy foreign residents to buy alcohol, will tourists soon be allowed to do the same?

www.bbc.com

Whilst they are moving forward I just done everything see a day where it’s open slather.
The friends we have stayed with in Jeddah still maintain that the day will never come where alcohol is freely available in the Kingdom.
Resorts will eventually open up for tourists that serve alcohol but it certainly won’t get to levels like Qatar or others

 

[RooFlyer]

This today from the BBC.

Thanks. It says

Yet despite the ban, for decades, alcohol has circulated out of public view – from homemade brews to imported labels – consumed at private parties, in gated residential compounds, and in well-stocked Saudi homes.

I’ve told the story before. When we visited in 1994, the Australian trade commissioner invited us to dinner at his place. The booze was laid on and he told us that once a year each embassy is allowed to import a container load of booze which was then swapped around all the missions.

 

[RooFlyer]

Next day, I had a 2 hour (on site) tour booked of Hegra - the main focus of my visit to Saudi. It was difficult to decide what type or duration of tour to take beforehand and I think I did OK. Unfortunately we had a group of 5 young Saudi ladies (western dress, some botox lips, one of them vaping on the bus, incessant chatter amongst themselves, incl when the English version of explanations given, selfies, selfies, selfies, no respect for timing - just obnoxious).

Anyway - the tour started with a pick-up from the Winter Park as before, at 8:30am. Half a coach load. About 20 mins drive to the park entrance where there is a small visitors centre and its a muster point for the actual tours of the site. We got off, and after 5 mins, joined another coach which was already half full. Couples got split up - not ideal. Comfortable 2 door coach, USB A power at the seats.



The car park at the visitors centre (concealed) - showing the base of a typical formation there.



The countryside was fascinating - isolated sandstone rock formations, called inselbergs, from the size of a garage to decent hills, just sticking up out of the sand.

An inselberg





Hegra. Many here would have visited, or know of the magnificent carved tombs at Petra, in Jordan, the main city of the Nabatean empire. The Nabateans occupied northern Arabia and the 'Levant in the 4th-1st centuries BC and rules some very rich trading routes (gold, frankincense and myrrh ... ). I loved Petra and when I found out that Hegra was the second city of the Nabateans (and a bit later than Petra - say, 500BC), and also had rock-cut tombs, I had to visit. Its a UNESCO world heritage site, the first in Saudi Arabia.

In the pics note how just about all the female visitors were without head coverings and most were in western attire (no skirts). This was typical of all the excursions, within hotels and even at the Madinah train station, Jedda Corniche etc.

First stop was at Jabel Ithlib ('Ithlib mountain') which hosts a diwan, or dining hall/space.



Adjacent to the diwan was a small siq , leading to the remains of a dwelling or other structure. The lady on the right below was out guide - very knowledgeable and answered questions such as on the Nabateans and relationship of here to Petra. There was also a Saudi guy 'safety officer' so pax didn't stray where they shouldn't. We spent about 30 mins at each site.







Two of our lovely local ladies, still clutching the coffees they bought at the Winter Park.



As far as I could tell, al the erosional features were natural.



There were inscriptions and niches, presumably for deities.





Heading back to the coach. The city of Hegra is in the wide space in the distance.

 

[RooFlyer]

Before I go further, a reminder of the perils of group tours. In the first 3, the group had just arrived and #1 strode forth to get their pic taken in front, then # 2 was contemplating the tomb, which is great, but not when everyone is waiting ... #3 with the camera stick was just oblivious to everyone else, the whole tour.






Ahem. So Jabal al Banat. 'Girl's mountain' features 29 tombs mostly for women (there are inscriptions above each about the tomb, in the squares) with some very nice carvings and is one of the larger clusters of tombs. Remember these are all done with hammer and pick, ~500BC, carved in 3D out of the rock. The smoothed surfaces are remarkable. Sorry, gunna to be a pic fest. Apologies for the bandwidth consumption!

The carvings and emblems are a mix of Nabataean, Greek, and Egyptian styles, representing the mix of the society. The stairs at the tops represent ascension to heaven. Eagles are popular (all missing their heads) as are flowers. Doric (Greek) columns. Snakes protect the dead in the afterlife.

 

[RooFlyer]

We were only allowed into one tomb, the double-story one below



Niches for the bodies - a family









A very nifty rock!

 

[RooFlyer]

The stops were only 5 minutes apart. Stop 3 was the Tomb of Lihyan, Son of Kuza (Qasr al-Farid - 'lonely castle'), the 'headline' tomb for Hegra - the one in all the pictures.

Some more on it

Qasr al-Farid (Madain Saleh) - Madain Project (en)

The Qasr al-Farid (قصر الفريد), meaning ‘the Lonely Castle’, is an archaeological site in Madâin Sâlih (al-Hijr or Hegra) in the north of Saudi Arabia. The Qasr al-Farid is one of the most famous tombs in Madâin Sâlih, and was named as such due to the fact that it is completely isolated from the...

madainproject.com

Qasr al-Farid is characterized by a monumental facade directly carved into a solitary sandstone outcrop. The tomb rises approximately 17 meters in height and is distinguished by its two-story facade. The design integrates elements from Hellenistic, Mesopotamian, and indigenous Nabataean architectural traditions, reflecting the cosmopolitan influences that the Nabataeans absorbed through trade networks extending from the Arabian Peninsula to the Levant and the Mediterranean. The enigmatic Nabataeans were originally a nomadic tribe, but about 2,500 years ago, they began building great settlements and cities which prospered from the first century BCE to the first century CE, including the magnificent city of Petra in Jordan.

First, from the side. You can see from the toe at the right base how much has been taken away







Unfortunately it wasn't finished - you can see the rough pick marks at the base, remaining. Noone knows what happened to Lihyan Son of Kuza.

The inscription

 

[RooFlyer]

Some of the rock formations in the area

 

[RooFlyer]

Jabal al-Ahmar is a collection of 18 tombs, similar to the others, except in one respect. In 2008, archaeologists discovered an intact tomb, concealed by sand probably for 2,000 years. It contained the wrapped remains of a woman, Hinat. A neclace and other artifacts were also recovered.

This page gives an explanation.

The Jabal al-Ahmar Necropolis in Hegra (Mada'in Salih) in modern-day Saudi Arabia is one of the four necropolis areas to have survived. It contains 18 tombs, some of which were recently uncovered. The remains of a 2,000-year-old Nabatean woman, Hinat, were excavated from one of the tombs. In 60 or 61 CE, Hinat had carved the following message onto a panel above the entrance to her tomb: "This is the tomb which Hinat, daughter of Wahbu, made for herself and for her children and her descendants forever. And no one has the right to sell it or give it in pledge or write for this tomb a lease. And whoever does other than this, his share will revert to his legitimate heir. In the twenty-first year of King Maliku, King of the Nabataeans."











And when we turned the other way ...

 

[RooFlyer]

The bus returned to the visitor centre to drop everyone off, but nobody then knew what to do. There was a mix of maybe 3 busses there at the time. The 'ladies' bought themselves ice creams and made themselves comfortable in some terrace chairs. Some made their way back to the original bus. There, a couple of Americans who were on a schedule went back and roused the ladies and we left for the trip back to the Winter Park.

About 3 hours all up. A longer, private trip would have been better, but too expensive for me as a single.

Al Ula old town was on the way back to the hotel, so I stopped there. Like everywhere, the Saudis have it well organised. Parking lots to the north and south with golf buggy transport to get you to the Old Town,



The Old Town dates from the 12th century and lay on the incense trading route and also the pilgrimage route from the Levant to Mecca. Mainly built of mud brick, its badly decomposed but there is an ersatz recreated 'Old Town' tourist trap up above the ruins.

They are trying for the Sedona / Old Pueblo vibe and while there is potential, its too obviously a new tourist trap for it to work.



You can enter into the 'old town' - shops within either reconstructed or heavily renovated actual old town, but it was totally unappealing to me.





King - then Prince - Charles was here in 2015 - signed his name with a stick.



The Fort above the town and, of course, coffee shops. Very few people around.



Rock formations around the town



You could see what looks like stabilised old ruins down below, but not accessible, I think.

 

[JohnM]

The atmosphere looks very dull. What's the cause?

 

[RooFlyer]

The atmosphere looks very dull. What's the cause?

Don't know. Perhaps the word was around (but I hadn't heard!) that its just a tourist trap. Or maybe the tourist numbers haven't grown yet to properly utilise the place - I think that may be the case.

Al Ula has been designated by the Saudis a priority development place (hence the 5 lanes of road leading into it!). There is a 'Royal Commission for Al Ula' to oversee its development and it will become a big destination, especially as women (visiting, at least) can dress and move around relatively freely, unlike before. The Saudi tendency to plan big, open spaces also tends to develop a sense of sterility though.

 

[JohnM]

Don't know. Perhaps the word was around (but I hadn't heard!) that its just a tourist trap. Or maybe the tourist numbers haven't grown yet to properly utilise the place - I think that may be the case.

Al Ula has been designated by the Saudis a priority development place (hence the 5 lanes of road leading into it!). There is a 'Royal Commission for Al Ula' to oversee its development and it will become a big destination, especially as women (visiting, at least) can dress and move around relatively freely, unlike before. The Saudi tendency to plan big, open spaces also tends to develop a sense of sterility though.

I mean the air atmosphere. It looks foggy.

 

[jase05]

Don't know. Perhaps the word was around (but I hadn't heard!) that its just a tourist trap. Or maybe the tourist numbers haven't grown yet to properly utilise the place - I think that may be the case.

Al Ula has been designated by the Saudis a priority development place (hence the 5 lanes of road leading into it!). There is a 'Royal Commission for Al Ula' to oversee its development and it will become a big destination, especially as women (visiting, at least) can dress and move around relatively freely, unlike before. The Saudi tendency to plan big, open spaces also tends to develop a sense of sterility though.

Mrs Jase wants to stay 4-5 nights at the Banyan Tree and have a decent look around next time.

 

[RooFlyer]

I mean the air atmosphere. It looks foggy.

High clouds and my Canon produces the 'fog' in longer shots.

Mrs Jase wants to stay 4-5 nights at the Banyan Tree and have a decent look around next time.

I'm sure the Banyan Tree will suffice very well!

 

[RooFlyer]

I fuelled up - 91 was 2.22 SAR/litre (A$0.84) and headed back to the hotel for the second, coughpy dinner described before.

Next morning, I was driving back to Madinah. Cloud7 really disappointed. Still reminds me of an upmarket mining camp.



Walk to breakfast and this is a bad look - remember, its bloody expensive!



As is this:



At check-out, a few costs I incurred - dinner the second night, and some laundry, were comped - the manager guy who asked me what the problem was has made some amends.

The drive back was even more boring than before. I did look at flights, but JED- MED direct was only 3 times a week and not the days I wanted. I would definitely recommend flying.







There were plenty of camels on the Madinah half of the drive, both up and back. So token camel shot.



I was a bit surprised; all the highways I had driven on (including 1994) had camel fences but there was no danger hear, during the day.

Reached the 4 lane freeway about 45 mins out of Madinah.



I was dropping the car off at the airport and I recall asking the guy there about petrol stations on the return. He said - no problem, they are close. Luckily I checked on the way because they aren't really close and all need a diversion.

So I rocked up to one that Google said was 24 hrs - not a soul about (they have bowser attendants). After 10 mins someone drove up and also parked at the bowsers. I asked if it was open. He said 10 minutes. Ah! I twigged. It was closed for prayer and sure enough soon they all came back. The other guy was getting a bit extra ...

 

[RooFlyer]

I got back to the Pullman in Madinah for a second night there, about 2pm. As before, the lobby was awash with people but the priority desk was clear and a very pleasant check-in agent informed me that I had been upgraded to a junior suite, of the top floor, facing the mosque (upgrade from a lower class room than my first one, city view). Nice.

And it was nice.




The bathroom was the same as before but oddly there was only one in the suite and it went not off the bedroom, but off the room entrance, so that night time walk was a careful one.

The room was only a couple along from my other room and had the same view except this time exactly aligned to the street on the far side of the complex.



Platinum amenities were as before, with the addition of a vase of roses, not pictured.

 

[RooFlyer]

I had one last thing I wanted to see in Madinah - the Quba mosque. Wikipedia:

The Quba Mosque is a mosque located in Medina, in the Hejaz region of Saudi Arabia, first built in the lifetime of the Islamic prophet Muhammad in the 7th century CE (Christian era). It is thought to be the first mosque in the world, established on the first day of Muhammad's emigration to Medina. Its first stone is said to have been laid by the prophet, and the structure completed by his companions. The mosque was subsequently modified across the centuries until the 1980s, when it was completely replaced by a new building that stands today.
On April 8, 2022, Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman announced the launch of the largest expansion in the history of the Quba Mosque, along with the development of its surrounding area. The project was named after King Salman bin Abdulaziz. This expansion aims to increase the mosque's total area tenfold, from 5,035 to 50,000 square metres (54,200 to 538,200 sq ft), increasing its capacity to 66,000 worshipers. The project is focused on connecting the existing mosque with covered plazas on all four sides, functionally and visually linked to independent prayer areas not structurally attached to the existing building. When completed, it will also provide all necessary services for the mosque, improve the efficiency of the existing building and its associated services, and enhance the surrounding road network and infrastructure to improve crowd management, accessibility, and the safety and security of worshipers. Additionally, it aims to develop and revitalize several historical sites and landmarks within the mosque and its surrounding areas.
This latter work is partially complete but large areas are still under redevelopment. I could access much of the plaza areas, but I didn't try to enter the inner areas, especially once prayers had started.

The check-in lady at the Pullman told me that I could get to the mosque by golf cart from just around the corner "outside Pizza Hut' - it will be about a 20 mins ride for 10 riyals (A$6). Best time to go is at sunset, so that was the plan.

There are many of these carts, each taking about 10pax and you had to admire the skill of the drivers - the route was entirely along pedestrianised ways, always full of people, especially near the mosque, and downtown. As we left downtown, people were streaming towards the Prophets mosque (as they were all the time).

The streets had just had a hose down.





And then we were at the mosque.







Then the 6pm, sunset (Maghrib) call to prayer started.

 

[RooFlyer]

As the sun set, the scene became very beautiful.



There was a vast number of coaches which had brought pilgrims in, and also, on the periphery, many shops and boutiques and others selling various 'merch'.

 

[RooFlyer]

And then, prayers having ended, the folk started streaming out from the mosque and I thought it was time to go too, so I would get a golf cart back without too much waiting. The crush was there though! But dozens of carts saw that there was no problem/



I snagged a rear facing seat, and took these videos. Again, weaving through a throng, and kids whizzing about on scooters! But no tooting of a horn and only a rare shout from the driver.

Safe and sound, back at Pizza Hut where I briefly contemplated dinner, but as I had paid for it at the hotel, there I went. Another buffet, as before.