A high and dry, wild and wet, majestic history medley – RTW 2018

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Fog wasn’t that bad. I could see the cliffs, but the gloomy days started to do my head in. Despite its culinary delights Lima is not a place I’d ever want to spend time in again.

Tomorrow I have to spend some time in LIM with no lounge access. LA seems to be in some sort of dispute with the operators of the lounge, such that access is suspended.

Not that the LIM lounge was ever much chop, but still better than just being in the terminal. LA give a 20USD voucher to use at one of two restaurants or a bar as compensation for no lounge access. Yikes!


One of the most disappointing things about LIM, no lounge. They previously used the Sumac lounge, which was dreadful anyway. Current airport upgrades happening, but according to my sources, no LATAM lounge in the immediate future.

Despite the constant gloomy weather, dreadful traffic and dirty brown city, I've grown to love it, in my own way. Culinary gems aside. But I appreciate for the traveller it doesn't have much to offer on the surface.
 
Fog wasn’t that bad. I could see the cliffs, but the gloomy days started to do my head in. Despite its culinary delights Lima is not a place I’d ever want to spend time in again.

Tomorrow I have to spend some time in LIM with no lounge access. LA seems to be in some sort of dispute with the operators of the lounge, such that access is suspended.

Not that the LIM lounge was ever much chop, but still better than just being in the terminal. LA give a 20USD voucher to use at one of two restaurants or a bar as compensation for no lounge access. Yikes!

How uncivilised :rolleyes:
 
LIM-GRU yesterday. Sector 3 of the DONE5. LA B763ER still in TAM livery. Boarded on time but had a tech issue that had us sitting for an hour but all sorted and then hauling out of the fog.

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Interesting tinge of bright green on top of hills near the coast.

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Over the Pantanal area. The world’s largest wetland (Pantanal - Wikipedia). Cuiaba is the jumping-off point and I’m heading there this morning on a GOL el cheapo for a week in the Pantanal.

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Hey there John, am worried. You have, in a single trip report, shown glorious photos of swish culinary presentations, the like I have never even dreamed were possible. How is that meant to make me feel as a future host??

I will have to start collecting clam shells, flat stones, indistinct foliage, on which to place your scrambled eggs on toast :)
 
In Cuiaba, Brazil, tonight, with an 0700h departure for a 3-hour drive towards the Pantanal tomorrow.

Wandered a few hundred metres down the road tonight to a churrascaria (Churrascaria - Wikipedia.).

Now, I knew vaguely that this was a Brazilian BBQ style place but I had not experienced it directly before. An endless procession of waiters kept coming out with various grilled meats on a large skewer, from which you could choose a portion to be carved (ie. point to the middle for rare or to the edge for well done) that you pick up with a small set of tongs as part of your cutlery. Beef, lamb, chicken, sausage plus many specific types and cuts that I could not understand as none of the waiters spoke English.

Interesting enough, but after a while frankly annoying. There hardly seemed a moment to relax as the endless offers were made, and I found a lot of the meats tough. Accompanied by my intense pet hate - a buffet. Salads, vegetables and desserts. I would not do it again.

I soothed myself with a bottle of Argentinian Malbec from San Juan. While they had quite a few Mendoza Malbecs of fairly high order (up to Catena Zapata Angelica which I’ve slurped before in Mendoza), I opted for the solo San Juan job on the list for a couple of reasons:

I visited there on a driving excursion in W Argentina a few years ago and went to a couple of wineries. In San Juan they are trying to differentiate themselves from Mendoza by making Syrah. I recall talking to one person who, on recognising that I was from Australia exclaimed “I wish we could make Shiraz like Australia.” My immediate response, of course, was “I wish Australia could make Malbec like Argentina!”

I had an interesting experience with a motor-bike traffic cop trying to shake me down. Now, this guy was bigger and meaner-looking than @juddles :eek:. Combat boots, fatigues tucked in, beret, low-slung .45... The stuff of movies.

I got pulled over on the freeway heading S just out of San Juan. Immediately realised I had forgotten to turn on the (manually-operated) headlights (mandatory in Argy) on my rental car after stopping for fuel.

Immediately wary of a shakedown, I go - with no effort whatsoever ;)- into a mode that could loosely be described as el stupido Australiano. Not a word of my dreadfully fractured Espanol breached my lips. Every babbled assertion of ‘infracion’, while this big guy stood in front of my with my driver’s license and rental car papers in his hand (but, notably, no ticket book), was met with a polite “I do not understand what you are saying, sir.”

Mexican standoff. Repeat, rinse; repeat, rinse. Several iterations later, el stupido eventually triumphs - of course.

So that’s my segue into choosing the San Juan Malbec tonight :).

It was a good wine. A little different from the Mendoza and Valle de Uco styles, rather in the same way that Martinborough Pinots differ from Central Otago - a little more earthy and a little less plush.

All this is also timely as my wine-tasting group’s theme this month is Malbec - so I’m with @Daver6 in spirit, if not in person:cool::).

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..... had an interesting experience with a motor-bike traffic cop trying to shake me down. Now, this guy was bigger and meaner-looking than @juddles :eek:. ...

I have a multi-level displeasure with this reference / comparison.

First up, I was never a "traffic cop' ;)

Second, I am not mean-looking - I am a peaceful nice guy. I like doing flower-arrangements and cooking.

Third, I do not (often) try to "shake down" people - and especially not in such a small scenario of a couple of bucks for a traffic thing. I pride my higher status in piracy.

Fourth, I do not ride motorcycles. I can drive anything else, I can fly a few things, but two wheels is something I have never mastered.

Fifth, again, I am not mean-looking! Unless someone upsets me. Such as by offering me diet-coke, an apology in QF J for lack of the in-flight snack menu, or for wanting me to agree that global warming is human-based.
 
Wildlife in abundance in the Pantanal. Spotted a jaguar on this morning’s excursion (the second excursion of seven planned - first one the afternoon of yesterday after we arrived at the lodge and two each day for three days, befre moving to another lodge.)

Not easy to capture wildlife on my phone - especially the jaguar, but here are a few snippets to go on with until I return home and sort the pics on my camera.

Capybaras.

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Huge diversity and abundance of birds.

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Cayman of the non-automotive type, with hood ornament.

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The pics that I am posting as I go are just from my iPhone7.

My camera is just a Sony HX90V, which is generally good, but for a lot of wildlife can be very limited. I don’t want to carry a massive-lensed SLR, preferring just something I can put in my pocket, point in the general direction on full auto and hope for the best.

I looked at some of the pics of the afternoon jaguar one of the others got with their bazooka-lensed Canon SLR and they were stunning.

The morning jaguar, which got up and started walking after we stopped, was impossible to photograph with the phone. It was a pregnant female, so some little jaguars to arrive soon.

They are very bulky, powerful beasts and kill by head-crushing (Jaguar - Wikipedia).
 
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Much like my ex girlfriend...:rolleyes:

[hides in the bushes again]

That is awesome to have seen jaguars! I am jealous. The skill of a good guide is invaluable.

Despite there being jaguars in Colombia, I never saw a live one. I came close though - fresh tracks in the mud. But then again, Colombia is not somewhere you walk around stealthily intentionally surprising things ;)

Anyway, again, awesome. They are probably my favorite animal (and that being said by a "dog-person")
 
Jaguar habitat.

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Talking to our guide at lunch and he had one trip last year that saw no jaguars in the four days here. After moving to the next location (primarily aimed at terrestrial wildlife) they did a special excursion downriver - and saw four in the one day!

His record in the four days here is eleven sightings!

We had a miss this morning. Rolling the dice in an hour for this afternoon’s coughshoot.
 
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