Intro
After many years of earning points, I was hoping to travel with my adult son to Italy, and particularly to show him Venice. (Before it goes under!) My wife does not like cold weather, so generally is not interested in travel to the Northern hemisphere from around November till February, so this would be just me and my son.We had a pretty narrow window of time for travel: anything from after Christmas, until the end of January, and the only obligatory stop we were after was Venice; anything additional would be a bonus.
I'm always interested in seeing how other folks redeem their points and what they do for their travel, but also, what the costs turn out to be. So, in case it's any use to others, I'll share what the costs were for this trip, on top of our "free" flights.
Planning
After a couple of weeks of fruitless searching for seats — I could find J seats for travel from Europe to Oz, but nothing for Oz to Europe — I bit the bullet and contacted Frequent Flyer Concierge about finding rewards seats for two, departing Melbourne either late December or early Jan, for a trip of around 3 weeks to Italy or any other major entry port to Europe within striking distance of Italy. It took them only 24 hours to say, yes, they could find some seats.The suggested route was MEL-AUH-DUS, DUS-AUH-MEL on Etihad in business class, for a total of 278,000 VA velocity points (+ taxes of around $1680.98 per PAX). If we had more flexibility with the time of year we could travel, perhaps we might have been able to get redemptions on an airline without taxes that were quite so steep, but, that wasn't an option so the choice was to either suck it up, or not go.
Suggested departure from Melbourne was 01 JAN 2024, with return from Frankfurt 16 JAN 2024.
Given the same trip as paid business fares on Etihad would be around $21500, and I had the points, I decided to go for it, notwithstanding the fairly step taxes.
I would never have thought of looking for flights into Duesseldorf. My own searches had not turned up any rewards seats into any European ports on any VA partner airlines over December or January, and when I searched again after getting the recommendations from the Concierge service, I could find only seats on 01 JAN 2024 and only into Duesseldorf!
Return availability was a different story though, and I was able to find reward availability from Rome FCO-AUH-MEL (as well as FRA-AUH-MEL) on multiple dates through January.
I decided we would travel from Duesseldorf to Italy, and work our way south and fly out from FCO, to avoid doubling back to Germany, and locked in the seats with a return departure from FCO on 18 JAN 2024. Taxes worked out a little cheaper than quoted: $780.44 pp outbound, $751.54 pp return, for total of $3050-odd. (Ouch!)
Options I considered for travel in Europe were to fly, to hire a car and drive, or to travel by rail.
It turned out that rail was the cheapest and easiest way to get from Germany to Italy, and then, around Italy. My first question was whether it was cheaper to buy a Eurail pass, or purchase separate fares from Deutsch Bahn and ItaliaRail. That didn't take long to answer: a single high-speed rail ticket from Duesseldorf to either Cologne or Munich on Deutsch Bahn was more than a multi-day Eurail pass!
So, the next step was to figure out the best route, and how many days we would need for train travel, and then what Eurail pass was required. That was not so straight forward. The Eurail app and website is not particularly intuitive. I finally figured out that I could create a "trip" (or itinerary), and once I had that figured out and knew how many days of travel was required, then purchase a pass. (The choices were 4, 5, 7, 10, or 15 day passes.) You then assign each day of the trip to a travel day in the pass. The pass can be either printed or used on a smart phone. The phone option seemed slightly safer, in that it is possible to transfer a pass from one device to another, so I carried a old Pixel in my checked luggage as a backup in the event my main phone was stolen or damaged. In the event of such a catastrophe, I should have been able to login to the Eurail app and transfer the pass to the second phone. No such backup with paper!
A friend suggested travelling through the Brenner Pass, from Austria to Italy (she described it as like "100 kilometres of postcard"), which would require travel from Duesseldorf to either Kufstein or Innsbruck in Austria, and then to Verona in Italy. So, our settled itinerary included travelling to Innsbruck, and from there, we would travel to Milan; Venice; Florence; and finally, Rome.
MEL-AUH-DUS
The House, Melbourne
Departure on 1 Jan was around 1600. We had the choice of the American Express Centurion Lounge (through my Amex Velocity Platinum) or The House (as a VA platinum, and also as business PAX with Etihad). I'd tried out both lounges at Sydney on past trips, so decided we'd try out The House and could move to the Centurion Lounge if we wanted.The House at Melbourne Airport was similar in style to the one at Sydney (unsurprisingly), though I reckon the view over the tarmac is better at Melbourne, and we were happy enough to stay there. The coffee was good, and I had a light meal before we boarded.




MEL-AUH EY463
EY463 was a 787-9, with the older-style business cabin. (As it turned out, none of the aircraft we flew had the refreshed business cabins.) We had seats 6D and 6G, both adjacent to the aisle, and rear-facing (which really wasn't much of an issue.)The layout is a little odd, and it feels cramped, with not a lot of storage space. There's a gap between the table on the inside of the seat (which is the footwell for the passenger who is in the seat facing towards us), and the small storage bin immediately next to us. It's perhaps 5 to 7 centimetres, so too small to store anything, but big enough to drop something there (especially when the interior is dark)! The only thing of note is that there's a power point down there, and it had a universal plug so would take US, EU or Aus/China power plugs, and delivered a fair bit of power! I was able to plug in my Aohi GaN charger, and quickly charge both my and my son's iPhone _and_ an iPad Pro! In contrast, the USB-A ports to the inside of the entertainment control were very low-powered, probably delivering no more than 5A.

The seats were setup with a duvet, seat cover, and pillow, which filled the foot cubby that was the only feasible place to store them out of the way.

The cabin crew offered a pre-takeoff drink, and soon after takeoff, took our meal orders.
I had the burrata salad, and lamb ghouzi, which was quite nice but not as spicy as I had hoped.


The 787-9 doesn't have blinds, but instead, LCD in the windows which were dimmed shortly after takeoff, and then blacked out later. I personally like to have the windows "open" to look out at the view from 35000 feet, but I must be an oddity, because I find on most flights these days folks are happy to have the windows closed/dimmed, and this flight was no exception. (I think the cabin crew also dim them to encourage passengers to sleep.)
Speaking of sleep, I wasn't able to get much at all. The cabin on the first leg was really noisy. There were a lot of passengers making noise, including one who annoyingly kept hacking up a lung, and the cabin was hot, to the extent that I was sweating without using the duvet. I think the cabin crew went overboard with turning up the temperature to encourage sleep!
The headphones provided by Eitihad were pretty cheap looking, and I didn't bother with them at all, opting for my own noise-cancelling headphones. I have the Sony WH-1000XM5, but also had my recently purchased AirPods Pro, and although the Sony's were a bit better, to my ears, the difference was not very significant, and the noise cancelling on the AirPods was not far off the Sony's. Given the difference in size and weight, I'd seriously consider relying on just the AirPods, allowing for the fact that they don't have the battery life, and need something like the AirFly to use with the in-flight entertainment.

I had a cheese platter later during the flight, and the cabin crew were quick to answer any call for a drink or water, though they weren't proactive at all in offering anything.

Arrival at Dubai was on-time, and there was about a 10 min walk to the transfer gates. That confused me a bit, and initially I was worried we'd taken a wrong turn somewhere. We didn't want to "transfer" to another terminal! We just wanted to get to the lounge. Terminal A obviously uses "transfer" as I'd normally understand "transit". Oddly (to my mind at least), we had to go through a security screening point to get into the terminal (and the same again at the gate, when boarding our onward flight). Given you would expect any passenger in the terminal to have already gone through screening, I'm not sure what the point of that was.
AUH-DUS EY39
EY39 departed at 0250 local time, and arrived slightly early at Duesseldorf at 0700.Cabin service was much as before, with the crew taking orders for breakfast if we wanted to be woken before landing. (I had the bircher muesli.) This flight was not as full as the previous one, but still uncomfortably hot, and I was only able to get about an hour of sleep.