Some Tasmanian wilderness, going business class

[RooFlyer]

Where I live in eastern Tasmania is nice and peaceful ... except at Easter when the hordes arrive. So this year I upped stakes and did several touristy things in Tasmania that I haven't done before, namely the Abt Railway out of Queenstown and the Gordon River Cruise out of Strahan, both on the west coast. And, dammit, I went business (or, the 'premium cabin' as they say ...).

On Good Friday I did another first and stopped for the night at New Norfolk, not far out of Hobart. Its a historic town on the Derwent River, now pretty sleepy and I usually zoom through if I'm going to or coming back from the west. It used to be the centre of hop-growing, and some timber industries, but they are both well scaled back nowadays. That's it to the left of the image.



Its very pretty on a fine day and the weather this day was perfect.

Looking downstream then upstream from the bridge over the Derwent. The water is pretty clean - not far upstream is a major drawing point for the Hobart water supply - straight out of the river!





New Norfolk is also well known locally as the place of the former 'Royal Derwent Hospital' - a now-closed facility for the 'mentally disturbed' (sorry, not sure if that's the best way to put it). It started off as an infirmary for convicts in the 1830s and its function evolved over the years and finally occupied quite a large site. The community has struggled to make use of the buildings - most of which are 1940s-1960s brick type structures.

At the core is 'Willow court' - the historic former barracks which is slowly evolving into a community hub.





Adjacent to this is the 'Agrarian Kitchen' - a well regarded eatery, although I didn't go in.



Nearby again is a rather untidy and out-of-character collection (or junkyard, depending on your point of view) of old transport/farming vehicles.

 

[RooFlyer]

The other place I was desperate to check out was the Black Swan bookshop and I was really pleased it was open on Good Friday. It is also a cafe and was doing a roaring trade (in as much as a 1 person bookshop/coffee shop can 'roar').





A very selective and eclectic collection of titles!!



You can't go to that type of place without buying something and this is a beautiful book:

 

[RooFlyer]

My accommodation that night was at Tynwald, on a bend of the Derwent. I had never heard of it, but its a colonial house and it looked really good, so I was there. It didn't disappoint:

Unexpectedly, i found it was a Georgian miller's cottage ('2 up, 2 down') that had been 'modernised' and extended around Federation - added balconies, tower etc etc.





My room. It was on the ground floor and I would recommend anyone staying there to go upstairs. The walls were thick, but the floor above was creaky!!







The place is full of antiques ...



The ruins of the original mill...



The river is close and a very nice walk along its banks:

 

[tgh]

more……more…...

 

[RooFlyer]

Views from the balcony:





Guest sitting room, and dining room





I had dinner there



It was pretty good - not 'cutting edge' by an means, but a good dinner in line with the ambiance of the house.

The house is run by the owners, a couple who have been there for maybe 30 years? A good place for a rest and relaxation, not for having a wild time.

Last shot: oast houses, formerly a common sight (its where they dried the hops) - but very prone to fire!!

 

[VPS]

The other place I was desperate to check out was the Black Swan bookshop and I was really pleased it was open on Good Friday. It is also a cafe and was doing a roaring trade (in as much as a 1 person bookshop/coffee shop can 'roar').

View attachment 244240

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A very selective and eclectic collection of titles!!

View attachment 244238

You can't go to that type of place without buying something and this is a beautiful book:

View attachment 244241

I want that wall of the bookshop with the door and all those books in my house. I’ve put that bookshop on my list of places to visit

 

[RooFlyer]

I want that wall of the bookshop with the door and all those books in my house. I’ve put that bookshop on my list of places to visit

Check their Facebook page for opening days and times. Not open every day.

When you visit (and say hi to Alexander), you might pick up this book on 'home libraries'. I think @Drakecula may be interested too.

 

[RooFlyer]

Easter Saturday was a gorgeous day - forecast max of 30 deg on the west coast!!

The Saturday market was going in New Norfolk:







On the road, I started out with a drive-through of Magra, a first:



Stopped for a coffee at Derwent Bridge, the traditional half-way mark to Queenstown. A bit past that, Frenchman's Cap in the distance:



Beehives all over the place with the little critters stuffing themselves on Leatherwood.



Hydro impoundment Lake Burbury (I stopped the car for this shot) You know you are getting close to Queenstown



Just before climbing up the last ridge before Queenstown, you go through the ghost mining town of Linda. There is a cafe there now and plans to re-open the old hotel

 

[tgh]

Saw this for sale last year…lotta work.. not gonna happen

The Royal Hotel at Linda on Tasmania’s West Coast has sold - realestate.com.au

A former pub in a ghost town on Tasmania’s West Coast has sold to a new owner who’s keen to know what locals want to see at the site. DETAILS >>

www.realestate.com.au

 

[RooFlyer]

Saw this for sale last year…lotta work.. not gonna happen

The Royal Hotel at Linda on Tasmania’s West Coast has sold - realestate.com.au

A former pub in a ghost town on Tasmania’s West Coast has sold to a new owner who’s keen to know what locals want to see at the site. DETAILS >>

www.realestate.com.au

They were on the radio last week, still planning to go ahead - but agree that its a 'challenging' reno ...

The Iron Blow mine on Philosopher's Ridge was the first discovery on what became the Mt Lyell mining field at Queenstown. It was discovered in 1883 and was in production the following year, finishing in the 1920s. They mined copper and gold.









Spot the mineralisation ...



Very good signage

 

[RooFlyer]

Then over the ridge for the winding road idown nto Queenstown. I think its a bit scandalous that they are letting the vegetation re-grow now, spoiling the environmental heritage ... (The hills in the background right would never had much vegetation on them - quartzite conglomerate, quite high and wind-battered ...)





Never seen Queenie so fine and warm!



I didn't stop in Queenie, will be back tomorrow ... keen to get onto the beach at Strahan. But a pause at UEE for a pic. Anyone ever flown into there?



The road between Queenstown and Strahan is frankly awful. Very winding and few views due to the thick vegetation. Takes about an hour for 40km.

First views of Strahan. I'm staying at the Strahan Village, the best place on the West Coast by some margin, but too early to check in. A short walk before moving on. The pub, bakery, coffee shops etc, over the road from where the cruise boats depart from.



At the bottom, the check-in area, with the main part of the hotel up on the ridge. There are several other wings behind the first row, plus various cabins and other places scattered around the check-in area. its really well done. Has recently been bought by the NRMA, so members, watch out for discounts!



The inner harbour is right there:



and some reminders that the weather isn't always as nice as today:

 

[RooFlyer]

I then drove the 20 mins to Ocean Beach, which is a wide, over 20km long stretch of beach running north from the entrance to Macquarie Harbour:



Two easy access points, both via gravel roads - first a few km up the beach, my first point of call, the other at the Heads themselves (Hells Gates):



Absolutely breath-taking (figuratively and literally!) on a fine but very windy day. They 'aint called the Roaring Forties for nothing!! West from here, past the Cape Sorell Lighthouse in the pic, first stop is South America, as you go south of Cape of Good Hope.






The beach is popular with quad-bikers and 4WDers, but there is plenty of room for everyone.

 

[bPeteb]

Then over the ridge for the winding road idown nto Queenstown. I think its a bit scandalous that they are letting the vegetation re-grow now, spoiling the environmental heritage ... (The hills in the background right would never had much vegetation on them - quartzite conglomerate, quite high and wind-battered ...)

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Never seen Queenie so fine and warm!

View attachment 244330

I didn't stop in Queenie, will be back tomorrow ... keen to get onto the beach at Strahan. But a pause at UEE for a pic. Anyone ever flown into there?

View attachment 244331

The road between Queenstown and Strahan is frankly awful. Very winding and few views due to the thick vegetation. Takes about an hour for 40km.

First views of Strahan. I'm staying at the Strahan Village, the best place on the West Coast by some margin, but too early to check in. A short walk before moving on. The pub, bakery, coffee shops etc, over the road from where the cruise boats depart from.

View attachment 244332

At the bottom, the check-in area, with the main part of the hotel up on the ridge. There are several other wings behind the first row, plus various cabins and other places scattered around the check-in area. its really well done. Has recently been bought by the NRMA, so members, watch out for discounts!

View attachment 244335

The inner harbour is right there:

View attachment 244334

and some reminders that the weather isn't always as nice as today:

View attachment 244333

this Strahan place looks vaguely familiar

 

[kookaburra75]

Then over the ridge for the winding road idown nto Queenstown. I think its a bit scandalous that they are letting the vegetation re-grow now, spoiling the environmental heritage ... (The hills in the background right would never had much vegetation on them - quartzite conglomerate, quite high and wind-battered ...)

When I first went to Queenstown in 1980, I was convinced that there were people in the local Council, whose job it was to cut down anything green. It seemed to be the draw card for tourists to visit - somewhere so bleak.
On our recent trip, about two days ahead of you, we were too early for a drink at the Empire and had to do with a coffee at the Station. MrsK was ok with that, as it saved her from me regaling her with tales of when I last had a drink at the Empire, in my youth etc etc

 

[bPeteb]

My first and only previous visit to Queenstown was also in 1980. No drinks for me though as I was a school excursion!

 

[RooFlyer]

A sad reminder of why the name Ocean Beach near Strahan might sound familiar. The last stranding was within the harbour, where i go next.



A short drive along sealed and gravel roads takes you to Macquarie Point, or Hells Gates as its better known and the southern end of Ocean Beach.

All the pics here are just inside the heads. The inner lighthouse, with the entrance off to the right. Will get up closer on the cruise in 2 days time.








The entrance, on the left, Hells Gates.

A braver soul than me:

 

[RooFlyer]

Back to Strahan where my room (Executive Studio) was ready.



View:



Ooops, sorry, the view (and official beginning of the suspension of the diet):



This is the arrangement. I was on the top level. there are several wings behind this bit, off to the right, with no views. Dining room, lounge and deck on the right.





The second cruise boat coming in; the 'Gordon River Cruise' boat, the olive one, already berthed. I'm on that in two days time.



More views. Check the size of the trees in the first pic. These grow all around the port precinct.



The Strahan station at Regatta Point for the Abt/Wilderness rail to Queenstown. Its not doing the full journey ATM, just half and back, ex Queenstown, which I'm on tomorrow.



The lounge at Strahan Village



And the dining room. Buffet only, $65. Quite a good spread of roast, seafoods etc etc but marginal value (although seeing @bpeteb's steak at the pub, and its cost, the buffet's value improves!!

 

[bPeteb]

Yes, $65 is an absolute bargain!!

 

[RooFlyer]

An after dinner stroll around the inner harbour.







Up at Sparrow's next morning, as I had jagged a ticket on the West Coast Wilderness Railway (I still call it by its old name - the Abt railway), out of Queenstown, an hours drive away. God bless the Coffee Shack in Strahan, open from 6am all Easter!



I got into Queenstown in plenty of time (I had allowed for slow pokes on the road), and not surprisingly, on Easter Sunday there wasn't a lot happening in downtown Queenie!!



The old Empire Hotel on the left, and th Queenstown rail station on the right.



Queenstown is, of course the home of the Mt Lyell Mine, operated for many years by the Mt Lyell Mining and Railway Company. The copper mines at Queenstown operated for the better part of 130 years and produced over a million tonnes of copper - that's metal, not ore! plus 750 tons of silver, 45 tonnes of gold. Its currently overseas owned and on care and maintenance.

We'll see more of the legacy of the mine on the train, but near the station is the miner's memorial - one of the better ones I've seen.

 

[RooFlyer]

The ticket I got was from a cancellation due to COVID, and was for 'Wilderness class'. I didn't realise what that meant when I grabbed the ticket on-line but turned out it was the better carriage, notwithstanding the 'Second Class' written on the ticket jacket.



The West Coast Wilderness Railway was built so the Mt Lyell mines could get their ore to Strahan and then onto ships. It commenced in 1897, carting ore from the iron Blow mine we saw before. There were no roads into Queenstown for many decades. Problem was, the lowest route from Queenstown to Strahan, through the King river valley, had the impassable King river Gorge along the way, so they had to go over the mountains. The solution found was to use a 'rack and pinion' system, where a second steam engine powered a cog wheel under the engine that engaged a third, cogged rail and allowed the train to go up and down gradients as steep as 1:12. This was designed by Dr Roman Abt, hence one of the names for the railway. More of that later. Go to the link above for some of the stories of the railway.

The railway was restored I think in the 1990s (having closed in the 1960s) and has had a mixed history. It cost a bunch to restore - new bridges, sleepers and much of the track, plus the engine stock, rail houses and stations along the way. Some of the recent repairs have been problematical and at the moment, the train only runs from Queenstown to 'Double Barril', about half way, but that includes the rack-and-pinion section and some spectacular scenery. Two intermediate stops.



There is a good cafe at the Station, opens early and you can get a full breakfast there. A good option whether or not you are doing the railway, as other early options in Queenstown are a bit dire.

There are three carriages, 2 for Heritage Class, and one for Wilderness Class, at the back on the way out. Each party in Wilderness Class has a table (singles get their own table due to COVID ), Tasmanian sparkling on arrival, canapes, morning tea and lunch and non alcoholic drinks. booze you pay for. But the best part is access to the rear open platform.





I was lucky to have the rear-most seat, with views straight out the back.