Winter in Japan for the non-skiing family

[ShelleyB]

Day 13 and we are off to Warner Brothers Studios and the making of Harry Potter. ShelleyB-son is a Harry Potter fan, ever since he first read the books. The original plan was to do this on Wednesday, when we are transition to Tokyo to meet Mr. ShelleyB, but over the Christmas period the studio is having a special event with various of the displays dressed with snow and Christmas trees. Today is the last day of that event. For the uninitiated, the studio contains original and replica sets from the Harry Potter films as well as the Fantastic Creatures franchise. There’s behind the scenes information on how the films were made, from set design and construction, costuming and special effects. For those who are not Harry Potter fans, please feel free to skip to the end.

Travel to Warner Bros. Studios is quite easy. There’s a train station a minute’s walk away which can be accessed from two different train lines.

Before entering for the tour we ate at the Frog Cafe in the building. Much sugar ensued.



Tickets are timed entry, mainly to allow participants to hear some briefing videos in groups, and enter the great hall together. The opening of the doors to the Great Hall is an event, and people with birthdays or other special anniversaries invited to open the doors. That was 2 people in our group.

The whole place was enormous, and the sets very very impressive. We probably spent around 5 hours there. Below are some photos from the day.

















After returning from Harry Potter we were quite tired and decided against any exploration of Yokohama or even any fussing about where to go for dinner. A lovely ramen place was just 1 minute walk away from our hotel so it was a no brainer.



Edited to add details of cafe food.

 

[ShelleyB]

Day 14 and a day to enjoy the sights of Yokohama.

I forgot in yesterday’s report to describe the breakfast at The Knot, which is a big oversight as it was fabulous. It is a mix of cooked to order (from a menu) and a buffet. Yesterday I had the omlette and today the roll. The omlette was particularly good. Unsurprisingly ShelleyB-son chose the waffle each day. The buffet was also excellent, quality vegetables, excellent homemade granola. Good coffee and about 5 types of tea prepared in a pot and kept warm. Even sparkling wine was available.

 

[ShelleyB]

After breakfast we headed out towards the waterfront on the train, where there are many sights to see. First up was the Yokohama landmark tower with the now (mainly) retired Nippon Maru training ship scenically moored alongside. The tower is a lovely building which has an observatory on the 69th floor but which is closed until 2028.





A short walk then brought us to Cosmo World, a small amusement park which has a large ferris wheel with enclosed cabins, London Eye style. We rode and although entry was a bit pricey at 1000 yen each, the views were excellent. Views all the way along the waterfront, including of the Asuka II currently in port. Yokohama is her home port.







A little further on was the buiding known as the Red Brick Warehouse. It’s just past the Cup Noodles museum which is closed for renovations to the end of January. The red brick warehouse is an historical building, previously used as a customs storage house but is now an upmarket shopping space. Naturally we did a little shopping plus a light lunch.






A little further on was the buiding known as the Red Brick Warehouse. It’s just past the Cup Noodles museum which is closed for renovations to the end of January. The red brick warehouse is an historical building, previously used as a customs storage house but is now an upmarket shopping space. Naturally we did a little shopping plus a light We continued our walk through Yokohama park to the Yokohama Marine Tower. The tower also has an observatory which unfortunately was closed due to high winds. It was indeed windy, and as such the Yokohama air cabins, a gondala ride over the waterfront area, was also closed. Never mind, ShelleyB-son consoled himself with the most ridiculous tower of cream ever seen at cafe in the tower called Eggs and Things. There are some pancakes under there somewhere.

 

[ShelleyB]

Finally on to Chinatown, which is the largest in Japan. Our intial plan was to grab an early dinner here but the cream tower ruined that idea. If we had been hungry there was no limit to the number of options. And if you want you palm read this is clearly the place to come.









After a little wander about back to the hotel. There we enjoyed the welcome drinks included in our room package. Ultimately no dinner was had as no one was hungry.

 

[ShelleyB]

Day 15 and Mr ShelleyB is arriving today. We are meeting him in Tokyo, but as he is not landing at NRT until 3.15pm we have the day to entertain ourselves.

As we are only one night in Tokyo, sent the bag on to the subsequent hotel in Sendai. Again, less than 3000 yen to leave us only with the small bag. Total bargain.

Breakfast was another omlette for me and waffle for Ash, natch. Then we transited to Kamakura where we planned to undertake a walk joining some of the local temples. The walk actually commences from Kita-Kamakura but as it finishes in Kamukura we thought we’d stow the bag in a locker so it was waiting for ua at the end. Then quickly back on train to kita-kamakura to commence.

The plan for this walk is outlined in the most recent lonely planet for Japan, so I cannot claim credit. But nor can lonely planet as it follows part of a local trail, the Daibutsu Trail. A word about accessibilty on this walk. Unlike the walk we did on the Michinoku a few days ago which was a very easy walk, I would rate this one more moderate in places. There are some steep sections, with exposed roots perfect for tripping over. There was also quite a bit of leaf litter. Walking this trail after rain would be quite slippery in places I suspect.

The first stop for us today was Jochi-ji, one of Kamakura’s great Zen temples. There is a small entry fee of 300 yen for adults. The temple feels very zen indeed, with woods and lovely old buildings. We enjoyed a relaxing walk before hitting the trail again to walk to Kuzuharaoka-jinja.

 

[ShelleyB]

This section of the walk is the only moderately challenging section, but came with the reward of excellent views. The temple has a lovely rest area with a dozen or so picnic tables and multiple vending machines with cold drinks.



From here we headed to Zeniarai-benten. The route to the temple takes you through a stone Torii gate into a tunnel under the mountain. This temple was the busiest of all the temples on our walk, possibly due to the reputation of the water here. Apparently if you bathe your coins in the water here your money will multiply. We did not test this, so I can’t provide a data point.

From Zeniarai-benten we walked to Sasuke-Inari-jinja, a temple devoted to the fox deity. Just outside the temple is a lovely cafe called Cyan. They had indoor and outdoor seating. It was such a beautiful day we chose outdoor. ShelleyB-son continued to maintain his sugar levels with apple pie and we both had craft soda - Yuzu for me, Cola for ShelleyB-son. The cola was particularly good.




Sasuke-Inari-jinja is like a minature version of Fushimi Inari in Kyoto, with an approach of red Torii gates.

 

[ShelleyB]

The trail is meant to continue behind the temple, but the trail was closed, perhaps for the winter. So we made our way back down the road and to the final stop, Kotoku-in which houses the Daibutsu or great buddha statue. Entry fee is 300 yen. The statue itself is very impressive and dates from around 800 years ago. I personally found the temple itself less impressive than the smaller ones in the hills we had just visited. Perhaps it was the number of people. It was not ridiculously busy, but busy enough. I would not like it in peak season where I gather crowds are crazy. It is possible to go inside the Buddha for an extra fee, where there is a platform you can walk up and look out, but we did not do so.





We then took the Enoden local train back to Kamakura. The train was very busy too, and is a favourite of the influencer set. Somewhere along its route (not sure exactly where) it passes through a level crossing where the sea and the train can be photographed together and apparently when a train is due throngs of people now block the road. The train is useful as a method to get to Enoshima island but we did not have time today. Instead we grabbed our bag and headed to Tokyo.

For our one night in Tokyo we are staying at the Daiwa Roynet Premier Hotel in Kyobashi. I quite like staying in Kyobashi for its proximity both to Tokyo Station and Ginza. I chose the Daiwa Premier as I was able to get a good price for a triple at 31200 yen for the night. No breakfast though - they don’t have a restaurant.





Room was quite nice, with a great rainshower in the bathroom. Spacious enough for one night. After check in we had just enough time for a quick bit of shopping in Ginza before the arrival of Mr ShelleyB. Once arrived and refreshed, we all headed to Chao Chao for way too much food, particularly gyoza.

 

[RB001]

Somewhere along its route (not sure exactly where) it passes through a level crossing where the sea and the train can be photographed together and apparently when a train is due throngs of people now block the road.

There's a number of crossings for a similar effect, but only one was featured in a popular anime/manga, 'Slam Dunk' - hence the hordes.
The crossing you seek is a little to the east of Kamakurakōkō-Mae Station, adjacent to Koshigoe Rakko Park. (Even the default Street View for the park features a passing Enoden!)

 

[jakeau]

Stunning. Have began loosely planning a similar trip.