Winter in Japan for the non-skiing family

What a shame you can’t find any reward flights. I am only bronze as well but this did not limit visibility of award seats on partner airlines such as JAL on release date. Have no seats been available for the dates you wanted or insufficient/ wrong class? I did have to grab them basically on release date, so about 360 days in advance.
You can only select to Dec 26 at the moment, so not quite 360 days. I thought maybe you were a higher tier and had more visibility. (Everything up to that date in late Dec is Classic Plus at a very high rate.) I am looking any time from the 27th so we will keep watching but not getting my hopes up.
 
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You can only select to Dec 26 at the moment, so not quite 360 days. I thought maybe you were a higher tier and had more visibility. (Everything up to that date in late Dec is Classic Plus at a very high rate.) I am looking any time from the 27th so we will keep watching but not getting my hopes up.
My understanding is tier only affects Qantas visibility. I used the multi city to search partner airlines. We rarely have any luck getting international Qantas reward flights. But JAL have been very consistent in their releases. If you click on latest date apparently selectable in calendar you can often see flights a few days beyond.
 
Day 8. A whole week has passed. Leaving Hirosaka today so was pleased to wake up and find the sky had cleared and Mt. Iwaki showed her face. Not a little reminiscent of Mt Fuji and is in fact sometimes known as Tsugaru Fuji.

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Today heading off to Hachinohe. Still in Aomori region but on the east coast. Our luggage which we had sent from Morioka was waiting for us at Hachinohe hotel, so unencumbered by bulky luggage decided upon a brief visit to Aomori before heading to our final destination. Back on the Ou line to Aomori, dropping the carry on roller bag in a locker on arrival.

Had a walk around the seafront near the station, but did not visit the Nebuta museum which houses the floats and other paraphernalia from the annual Nebuta festival as ShelleyB-son did not seem that keen. Others on here have reported from the museum (such as @Noel Mugavin early in 2025).

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After our short visit, headed one stop back towards Hirosaki to shin-Aomori, the shinkansen to Hachinohe, and a short local ride to Honhachinohe. This is the one bit of our trip where we are not staying immediately near a train station. All the action in Hachinohe appears to be a short walk away from any train station, and I did not want to be walking to and from a less than ideal hotel every night just to be near a station.

Our hotel for the next 4 nights is another Daiwa Roynet. It’s about 10 mins walk from Honhachinohe station, or a short bus ride. Expecting similar snow levels to Hirosaki or Aomori, I imagined we would bus or taxi to hotel to prevent having to drag our little bag through snow, but as it was there was very little snow on the ground. The microclimate here on the east coast obviously keeps the snow levels much reduced. So we walked.

The room itself is functional, and at least the bathroom is less weird than the Art Hotel Hirosaki. The town is not as pretty as Hirosaki, although of course that may be a function of the lack of snow. Hirosaki might not be that pretty either when not covered in magical white powder.

The room and the view:

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Sadly the afternoon was spent doing chores, particularly doing laundry having travelled for over a week. Boring. But one of the many advantages of Japanese chain hotels is they all have coin laundry machines. Cheap and easy. Most include detergent, although we do always travel with laundry sheets just in case.

Went for a wander looking for dinner. Many many Izakayas, although lots were on the more bar side of things and thus not suitable for ShelleyB-son. But after not too much searching, found a very suitable place called Miraizaka. A shoes-off Izakaya with multiple private spaces. We were at a counter but mostly had the counter space to ourselves.

We were two hungry people and went a bit crazy on the extensive menu. Sensible people would have ordered a few dishes at a time, but we ordered a lot at once. Lucky the place was not busy or we would have run our of room. Highlights were the steak and the gyoza. A sake for me and a couple of craft ginger ales for the boy. The entire bill, which ultimately included 7 dishes (don’t judge - the boy ate almost 3 serves of gyoza by himself) was about $50 Aud. We will almost certainly visit again in our 4 nights here.


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Then onto the castle which is undergoing extensive renovations. It is never open for interior tours in winter anyway, but I note that after closing at the end of last season (Nov 25) it is not expected to reopen for many years. Something to be aware of for anyone coming to visit and keen to visit the interior. As it was, the exterior could be viewed fairly easily as a platform had been built to allow viewing over the construction fencing.
I have also been to Hirosaki when I was on my quest to get to the 12 originals. At present the castle (Tenshu) is not in its correct location it was moved there about 10+ years ago while works on the stone foundations/ wall that it sat on has been undergoing repairs, which may have now been completed. From what I have read, in 2026 the plan is to move the Tenshu back to the correct stone foundations which will take a few years. I guess that will be an excuse to go back and see it in the correct location.
 
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Day 9 and a quiet one today, in advance of a busier day tomorrow. After commenting yesterday on the lack of snow on the ground here is Hachinohe, woke to see snow falling and Hachinohe turning white.
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As we had no particular plans, had a late(ish) breakfast. No photos (sorry) but nothing particularly special at the breakfast buffet. A mix of Japanese and western items, heavier on the Japanese. Breakfast starts early and finishes early, as may be expected of a business hotel.

First on the agenda today was a visit to a local shrine Chojasan jinga. It was a pleasant 1km stroll from our hotel. Snow had stopped and there was even a bit of sun. The temple is on a slight rise and surrounded by trees. Temple itself is very attractive and clearly popular. Despite being late on weekday morning, while we were there multiple people arrived to pay respects. Two of their statues seem to have fallen and broken some time in the recent (?) past, not clear when.

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After the temple we took a bus to the Nejo castle ruins. Sadly upon arrival the grounds were closed and on entering the museum we found that was closed until June. No apparently mention of this on the website, although may have missed it. And my Japanese not up to understanding from the lovely person in the ticket booth why it was closed.

No matter, consoled ourselves with coffee and hot chocolate at a nearby Starbucks. The Starbucks was pleasant, and full of uni students doing work around a big communal table. They were probably there for hours.

After that we were done walking for a bit as the weather closed in with a big snowstorm. Thank goodness for buses.
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This was the view from our hotel after the snowstorm.
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For dinner Ash was keen on ramen. Hachinohe has a small yokocho (food and bar alley) called Miroku Yokocho. Many of the places in the alley are really bars serving some food items, not at all suitable for ShelleyB-son. But one place, Aji no mensho, right at the edge is really all about the ramen. They serve, among other things, a local specialty ramen unsurprising called Hachinohe ramen. The broth includes sardines to give it a distinctly fishy flavour. We both enjoyed it very much. No interior photos I am afraid as per restaurant request.

The alley

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The ramen restaurant

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Day 10 and we are hunting snow monsters. Not actual monsters of course, but snow rime covered trees said to resemble monsters. The effect is the result of special climactic conditions found on certain Japanese mountains, which includes lots of snow (natch!) very cold conditions and constant winds. The trees become like glaciated statues. Here in Aomori snow monsters can be found in the Hakkoda mountain range, and are accessible from the Hakkoda Ropeway, a two carriage ropeway running high into the Hakkoda mountain range and from which we should be able to view monsters.

From our hotel in Hachinohe we made our way back on the shinkansen to shin-Aomori station. From there we were able to board the Hakkodo-Go bus, run by JR, so conveniently included in our Japan Rail pass.

At this point I must admit that I was aware from the Hakkoda Ropeway website that the ropeway was not yet running that day due to high winds. It had not run yesterday either. However, I was also aware that this often happens and could change throughout the day. After consultation with ShelleyB-son we decided to chance it. With the JR pass the bus did not cost us anything more, and at the least we would have a scenic bus journey.

So did we find snow monsters? Reader, we did not.

Sadly we arrived at the ropeway station to find they had given up for the day. Cafe staff had gone, and the only people left were skiers who could access the chairlifts which went part way up the mountain. And there were not many of those either.

The ropeway station and surrounds

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So after a quick look around near the ropeway station we caught the next bus back to Aomori city.

Here I persuaded ShelleyB-son to visit the Nebuta Museum after all. The museum is devoted to information about the Nebuta Festival which takes place in Aomori every August. This is a massive festival of hazy origins but probably began as a pre-harvest festival. In modern times it goes for a week and at its centre are floats that are effectively giant paper lanterns. Add about 3 million visitors and loads of dancers and you have crazy times. In addition to information about the festival, the museum houses some of the floats from previous festivals and a small workshop showing parts of floats for the next festival being prepared. It was very enjoyable and inexpensive to visit (about 600 yen for an adult).

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Our final visit for the afternoon was to the A-building in Aomori. Literally a building shaping like an A. It houses tourist information, various shops, and an observation deck on the 13th floor. The tourist information centre on the 2nd floor includes a comfortable and free lounge with tables, chairs and counter with great views of the port.

We also visited the observation which did not impress me so much. Views were good, 360 degrees around Aomori, but the entry fee I thought was steep - basically the same as the Nebuta museum. ShelleyB-son enjoyed it though.

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We concluded our outing by heading back to Hachinohe, but by taking the local Aomori line. Takes quite a bit longer than the shinkansen, even accounting for needing to get from Aomori to shin-Aomori, but was much more scenic. Was quite popular with locals who also took it all the way to Hachinohe, presumably to avoid paying shinkansen prices. Glimpses of the coast including some fancy looking ryokan (traditional Japanese inns).

It’s Friday today so of course that means pizza night for us. Luckily there is a well reviewed pizza place just around the corner from our hotel, the pizzeria da Ora, serving fabulous woodfired pizzas. Not too many interior photos, as the place was very busy. Counter for us, but we never mind that. Lovely cosy atmosphere, perfect after a long and ever-so-slightly disappointing day with no monsters.

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