You can only select to Dec 26 at the moment, so not quite 360 days. I thought maybe you were a higher tier and had more visibility. (Everything up to that date in late Dec is Classic Plus at a very high rate.) I am looking any time from the 27th so we will keep watching but not getting my hopes up.
Winter in Japan for the non-skiing family
- Thread starter ShelleyB
- Start date
My understanding is tier only affects Qantas visibility. I used the multi city to search partner airlines. We rarely have any luck getting international Qantas reward flights. But JAL have been very consistent in their releases. If you click on latest date apparently selectable in calendar you can often see flights a few days beyond.
Quickstatus
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It does not get a lot better with better metals.
Dont discount going via non QF airlines. SQ for example - convert Amex points to KF miles
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Day 8. A whole week has passed. Leaving Hirosaka today so was pleased to wake up and find the sky had cleared and Mt. Iwaki showed her face. Not a little reminiscent of Mt Fuji and is in fact sometimes known as Tsugaru Fuji.
Today heading off to Hachinohe. Still in Aomori region but on the east coast. Our luggage which we had sent from Morioka was waiting for us at Hachinohe hotel, so unencumbered by bulky luggage decided upon a brief visit to Aomori before heading to our final destination. Back on the Ou line to Aomori, dropping the carry on roller bag in a locker on arrival.
Had a walk around the seafront near the station, but did not visit the Nebuta museum which houses the floats and other paraphernalia from the annual Nebuta festival as ShelleyB-son did not seem that keen. Others on here have reported from the museum (such as @Noel Mugavin early in 2025).
Today heading off to Hachinohe. Still in Aomori region but on the east coast. Our luggage which we had sent from Morioka was waiting for us at Hachinohe hotel, so unencumbered by bulky luggage decided upon a brief visit to Aomori before heading to our final destination. Back on the Ou line to Aomori, dropping the carry on roller bag in a locker on arrival.
Had a walk around the seafront near the station, but did not visit the Nebuta museum which houses the floats and other paraphernalia from the annual Nebuta festival as ShelleyB-son did not seem that keen. Others on here have reported from the museum (such as @Noel Mugavin early in 2025).
After our short visit, headed one stop back towards Hirosaki to shin-Aomori, the shinkansen to Hachinohe, and a short local ride to Honhachinohe. This is the one bit of our trip where we are not staying immediately near a train station. All the action in Hachinohe appears to be a short walk away from any train station, and I did not want to be walking to and from a less than ideal hotel every night just to be near a station.
Our hotel for the next 4 nights is another Daiwa Roynet. It’s about 10 mins walk from Honhachinohe station, or a short bus ride. Expecting similar snow levels to Hirosaki or Aomori, I imagined we would bus or taxi to hotel to prevent having to drag our little bag through snow, but as it was there was very little snow on the ground. The microclimate here on the east coast obviously keeps the snow levels much reduced. So we walked.
The room itself is functional, and at least the bathroom is less weird than the Art Hotel Hirosaki. The town is not as pretty as Hirosaki, although of course that may be a function of the lack of snow. Hirosaki might not be that pretty either when not covered in magical white powder.
The room and the view:
Our hotel for the next 4 nights is another Daiwa Roynet. It’s about 10 mins walk from Honhachinohe station, or a short bus ride. Expecting similar snow levels to Hirosaki or Aomori, I imagined we would bus or taxi to hotel to prevent having to drag our little bag through snow, but as it was there was very little snow on the ground. The microclimate here on the east coast obviously keeps the snow levels much reduced. So we walked.
The room itself is functional, and at least the bathroom is less weird than the Art Hotel Hirosaki. The town is not as pretty as Hirosaki, although of course that may be a function of the lack of snow. Hirosaki might not be that pretty either when not covered in magical white powder.
The room and the view:
Sadly the afternoon was spent doing chores, particularly doing laundry having travelled for over a week. Boring. But one of the many advantages of Japanese chain hotels is they all have coin laundry machines. Cheap and easy. Most include detergent, although we do always travel with laundry sheets just in case.
Went for a wander looking for dinner. Many many Izakayas, although lots were on the more bar side of things and thus not suitable for ShelleyB-son. But after not too much searching, found a very suitable place called Miraizaka. A shoes-off Izakaya with multiple private spaces. We were at a counter but mostly had the counter space to ourselves.
We were two hungry people and went a bit crazy on the extensive menu. Sensible people would have ordered a few dishes at a time, but we ordered a lot at once. Lucky the place was not busy or we would have run our of room. Highlights were the steak and the gyoza. A sake for me and a couple of craft ginger ales for the boy. The entire bill, which ultimately included 7 dishes (don’t judge - the boy ate almost 3 serves of gyoza by himself) was about $50 Aud. We will almost certainly visit again in our 4 nights here.
Went for a wander looking for dinner. Many many Izakayas, although lots were on the more bar side of things and thus not suitable for ShelleyB-son. But after not too much searching, found a very suitable place called Miraizaka. A shoes-off Izakaya with multiple private spaces. We were at a counter but mostly had the counter space to ourselves.
We were two hungry people and went a bit crazy on the extensive menu. Sensible people would have ordered a few dishes at a time, but we ordered a lot at once. Lucky the place was not busy or we would have run our of room. Highlights were the steak and the gyoza. A sake for me and a couple of craft ginger ales for the boy. The entire bill, which ultimately included 7 dishes (don’t judge - the boy ate almost 3 serves of gyoza by himself) was about $50 Aud. We will almost certainly visit again in our 4 nights here.
Noah Count
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I have also been to Hirosaki when I was on my quest to get to the 12 originals. At present the castle (Tenshu) is not in its correct location it was moved there about 10+ years ago while works on the stone foundations/ wall that it sat on has been undergoing repairs, which may have now been completed. From what I have read, in 2026 the plan is to move the Tenshu back to the correct stone foundations which will take a few years. I guess that will be an excuse to go back and see it in the correct location.
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Day 9 and a quiet one today, in advance of a busier day tomorrow. After commenting yesterday on the lack of snow on the ground here is Hachinohe, woke to see snow falling and Hachinohe turning white.
As we had no particular plans, had a late(ish) breakfast. No photos (sorry) but nothing particularly special at the breakfast buffet. A mix of Japanese and western items, heavier on the Japanese. Breakfast starts early and finishes early, as may be expected of a business hotel.
First on the agenda today was a visit to a local shrine Chojasan jinga. It was a pleasant 1km stroll from our hotel. Snow had stopped and there was even a bit of sun. The temple is on a slight rise and surrounded by trees. Temple itself is very attractive and clearly popular. Despite being late on weekday morning, while we were there multiple people arrived to pay respects. Two of their statues seem to have fallen and broken some time in the recent (?) past, not clear when.
After the temple we took a bus to the Nejo castle ruins. Sadly upon arrival the grounds were closed and on entering the museum we found that was closed until June. No apparently mention of this on the website, although may have missed it. And my Japanese not up to understanding from the lovely person in the ticket booth why it was closed.
No matter, consoled ourselves with coffee and hot chocolate at a nearby Starbucks. The Starbucks was pleasant, and full of uni students doing work around a big communal table. They were probably there for hours.
After that we were done walking for a bit as the weather closed in with a big snowstorm. Thank goodness for buses.
As we had no particular plans, had a late(ish) breakfast. No photos (sorry) but nothing particularly special at the breakfast buffet. A mix of Japanese and western items, heavier on the Japanese. Breakfast starts early and finishes early, as may be expected of a business hotel.
First on the agenda today was a visit to a local shrine Chojasan jinga. It was a pleasant 1km stroll from our hotel. Snow had stopped and there was even a bit of sun. The temple is on a slight rise and surrounded by trees. Temple itself is very attractive and clearly popular. Despite being late on weekday morning, while we were there multiple people arrived to pay respects. Two of their statues seem to have fallen and broken some time in the recent (?) past, not clear when.
After the temple we took a bus to the Nejo castle ruins. Sadly upon arrival the grounds were closed and on entering the museum we found that was closed until June. No apparently mention of this on the website, although may have missed it. And my Japanese not up to understanding from the lovely person in the ticket booth why it was closed.
No matter, consoled ourselves with coffee and hot chocolate at a nearby Starbucks. The Starbucks was pleasant, and full of uni students doing work around a big communal table. They were probably there for hours.
After that we were done walking for a bit as the weather closed in with a big snowstorm. Thank goodness for buses.
This was the view from our hotel after the snowstorm.
For dinner Ash was keen on ramen. Hachinohe has a small yokocho (food and bar alley) called Miroku Yokocho. Many of the places in the alley are really bars serving some food items, not at all suitable for ShelleyB-son. But one place, Aji no mensho, right at the edge is really all about the ramen. They serve, among other things, a local specialty ramen unsurprising called Hachinohe ramen. The broth includes sardines to give it a distinctly fishy flavour. We both enjoyed it very much. No interior photos I am afraid as per restaurant request.
The alley
The ramen restaurant
For dinner Ash was keen on ramen. Hachinohe has a small yokocho (food and bar alley) called Miroku Yokocho. Many of the places in the alley are really bars serving some food items, not at all suitable for ShelleyB-son. But one place, Aji no mensho, right at the edge is really all about the ramen. They serve, among other things, a local specialty ramen unsurprising called Hachinohe ramen. The broth includes sardines to give it a distinctly fishy flavour. We both enjoyed it very much. No interior photos I am afraid as per restaurant request.
The alley
The ramen restaurant
Day 10 and we are hunting snow monsters. Not actual monsters of course, but snow rime covered trees said to resemble monsters. The effect is the result of special climactic conditions found on certain Japanese mountains, which includes lots of snow (natch!) very cold conditions and constant winds. The trees become like glaciated statues. Here in Aomori snow monsters can be found in the Hakkoda mountain range, and are accessible from the Hakkoda Ropeway, a two carriage ropeway running high into the Hakkoda mountain range and from which we should be able to view monsters.
From our hotel in Hachinohe we made our way back on the shinkansen to shin-Aomori station. From there we were able to board the Hakkodo-Go bus, run by JR, so conveniently included in our Japan Rail pass.
At this point I must admit that I was aware from the Hakkoda Ropeway website that the ropeway was not yet running that day due to high winds. It had not run yesterday either. However, I was also aware that this often happens and could change throughout the day. After consultation with ShelleyB-son we decided to chance it. With the JR pass the bus did not cost us anything more, and at the least we would have a scenic bus journey.
So did we find snow monsters? Reader, we did not.
Sadly we arrived at the ropeway station to find they had given up for the day. Cafe staff had gone, and the only people left were skiers who could access the chairlifts which went part way up the mountain. And there were not many of those either.
The ropeway station and surrounds
Edited to add a little more information
From our hotel in Hachinohe we made our way back on the shinkansen to shin-Aomori station. From there we were able to board the Hakkodo-Go bus, run by JR, so conveniently included in our Japan Rail pass.
At this point I must admit that I was aware from the Hakkoda Ropeway website that the ropeway was not yet running that day due to high winds. It had not run yesterday either. However, I was also aware that this often happens and could change throughout the day. After consultation with ShelleyB-son we decided to chance it. With the JR pass the bus did not cost us anything more, and at the least we would have a scenic bus journey.
So did we find snow monsters? Reader, we did not.
Sadly we arrived at the ropeway station to find they had given up for the day. Cafe staff had gone, and the only people left were skiers who could access the chairlifts which went part way up the mountain. And there were not many of those either.
The ropeway station and surrounds
Edited to add a little more information
So after a quick look around near the ropeway station we caught the next bus back to Aomori city.
Here I persuaded ShelleyB-son to visit the Nebuta Museum after all. The museum is devoted to information about the Nebuta Festival which takes place in Aomori every August. This is a massive festival of hazy origins but probably began as a pre-harvest festival. In modern times it goes for a week and at its centre are floats that are effectively giant paper lanterns. Add about 3 million visitors and loads of dancers and you have crazy times. In addition to information about the festival, the museum houses some of the floats from previous festivals and a small workshop showing parts of floats for the next festival being prepared. It was very enjoyable and inexpensive to visit (about 600 yen for an adult).
Pl
Here I persuaded ShelleyB-son to visit the Nebuta Museum after all. The museum is devoted to information about the Nebuta Festival which takes place in Aomori every August. This is a massive festival of hazy origins but probably began as a pre-harvest festival. In modern times it goes for a week and at its centre are floats that are effectively giant paper lanterns. Add about 3 million visitors and loads of dancers and you have crazy times. In addition to information about the festival, the museum houses some of the floats from previous festivals and a small workshop showing parts of floats for the next festival being prepared. It was very enjoyable and inexpensive to visit (about 600 yen for an adult).
Pl
Our final visit for the afternoon was to the A-building in Aomori. Literally a building shaping like an A. It houses tourist information, various shops, and an observation deck on the 13th floor. The tourist information centre on the 2nd floor includes a comfortable and free lounge with tables, chairs and counter with great views of the port.
We also visited the observation which did not impress me so much. Views were good, 360 degrees around Aomori, but the entry fee I thought was steep - basically the same as the Nebuta museum. ShelleyB-son enjoyed it though.
We concluded our outing by heading back to Hachinohe, but by taking the local Aomori line. Takes quite a bit longer than the shinkansen, even accounting for needing to get from Aomori to shin-Aomori, but was much more scenic. Was quite popular with locals who also took it all the way to Hachinohe, presumably to avoid paying shinkansen prices. Glimpses of the coast including some fancy looking ryokan (traditional Japanese inns).
It’s Friday today so of course that means pizza night for us. Luckily there is a well reviewed pizza place just around the corner from our hotel, the pizzeria da Ora, serving fabulous woodfired pizzas. Not too many interior photos, as the place was very busy. Counter for us, but we never mind that. Lovely cosy atmosphere, perfect after a long and ever-so-slightly disappointing day with no monsters.
We also visited the observation which did not impress me so much. Views were good, 360 degrees around Aomori, but the entry fee I thought was steep - basically the same as the Nebuta museum. ShelleyB-son enjoyed it though.
We concluded our outing by heading back to Hachinohe, but by taking the local Aomori line. Takes quite a bit longer than the shinkansen, even accounting for needing to get from Aomori to shin-Aomori, but was much more scenic. Was quite popular with locals who also took it all the way to Hachinohe, presumably to avoid paying shinkansen prices. Glimpses of the coast including some fancy looking ryokan (traditional Japanese inns).
It’s Friday today so of course that means pizza night for us. Luckily there is a well reviewed pizza place just around the corner from our hotel, the pizzeria da Ora, serving fabulous woodfired pizzas. Not too many interior photos, as the place was very busy. Counter for us, but we never mind that. Lovely cosy atmosphere, perfect after a long and ever-so-slightly disappointing day with no monsters.
We love to hike and for us one of attractions of Hachinohe was its proximity to the start of the Michinoku, a long distance hiking trail down Japan’s north east coast. The trail runs 1000km or so from Hachinohe to Soma city in Fukuoka prefecture. The trail is actually a response to the earthquake and tsunami of 2011, which devastated this region and of course resulted in the Fukushima reactor disaster. Construction of the trail commenced in 2012 and it was officially opened in 2019.
As sadly we don’t have the time to walk 1000km, for us we planned on walking one segment, the first 10km or so. To reach the beginning we took the local Hachinohe line from Honhachinohe to Same station to walk about 5-10 minutes to the trail head.
The trail commences at a famous local shrine, the Kabushima shrine which is also home in the spring and summer to thousands of black tailed who come to breed and fledge their chicks. Apparently it is chaos with all the birds at this time. There is also a rest station with information on the gulls and viewing windows for watching the gulls without getting pooped. No gulls for us though.
If much of the shrine looks new that is because it suffered a large fire in 2015 and has since been rebuilt.
After the shrine the trail commences heading down the coast, but not before ShelleyB-son spied a doughnut shop called Stoked Doughnita and calories were ingested before walking even started.
As sadly we don’t have the time to walk 1000km, for us we planned on walking one segment, the first 10km or so. To reach the beginning we took the local Hachinohe line from Honhachinohe to Same station to walk about 5-10 minutes to the trail head.
The trail commences at a famous local shrine, the Kabushima shrine which is also home in the spring and summer to thousands of black tailed who come to breed and fledge their chicks. Apparently it is chaos with all the birds at this time. There is also a rest station with information on the gulls and viewing windows for watching the gulls without getting pooped. No gulls for us though.
If much of the shrine looks new that is because it suffered a large fire in 2015 and has since been rebuilt.
After the shrine the trail commences heading down the coast, but not before ShelleyB-son spied a doughnut shop called Stoked Doughnita and calories were ingested before walking even started.
Our aim for today was to walk to Tanesashi Natural Lawn in Tanesashikeigan. From there buses or trains could return us to Hachinohe.
The weather today was fantastic. I had tried to time our walk day for the day with best forecast, but it was positively warm, and I walked only in my fleece with no jacket for much of the day. There were a few walkers on the trail, but mostly we had it to ourselves. I doubt the same would occur in the warmer months. Many of the towns were clearly summer towns, and are probably packed to the rafters in the high season. Part of the walk today took us along the 2km Osuka beach which is popular with swimmers and surfers.
The trail is well marked, easy to follow, and anyone who can reliably walk could enjoy this section. There are cafes at various points, and plenty of picnic tables and benches with sea views. We enjoyed onigiri we had bought at Lawson’s while contemplating the ocean.
Here are some photos from along the way. Note the snow on the beach and the boat that survived the 2011 tsunami.
The weather today was fantastic. I had tried to time our walk day for the day with best forecast, but it was positively warm, and I walked only in my fleece with no jacket for much of the day. There were a few walkers on the trail, but mostly we had it to ourselves. I doubt the same would occur in the warmer months. Many of the towns were clearly summer towns, and are probably packed to the rafters in the high season. Part of the walk today took us along the 2km Osuka beach which is popular with swimmers and surfers.
The trail is well marked, easy to follow, and anyone who can reliably walk could enjoy this section. There are cafes at various points, and plenty of picnic tables and benches with sea views. We enjoyed onigiri we had bought at Lawson’s while contemplating the ocean.
Here are some photos from along the way. Note the snow on the beach and the boat that survived the 2011 tsunami.
Day 12, halfway through our trip, and heading back to the big smoke. For the next 3 nights we will be staying in Yokohama. We haven’t visited this city before, even though it is not at all far from Tokyo.
So back to Hachinohe station and on to the shinkansen. On the Hayabusa it is slightly less than 3 hours to Tokyo station. The initial plan was to then to have lunch at our favourite gyoza place in Tokyo, Chao Chao gyoza in Ginza. But sadly it does not open for lunch. So instead we paid a quick visit to the Travelers Factory store in Tokyo Station where I purchased a few items but also collected their special New Year stamp. Then onto Yokohama, a short 20 minute ride on the Tokaido main line.
After all our time in the northern prefectures, the mass of humanity in Tokyo and Yokohama has been slightly disconcerting. And in particular the number of non-Japanese tourists. In the last few weeks of travel we were, in the main, the only non-Japanese tourists we saw. In the main, there domestic tourists were few and far between as well. The places we have been the main travellers appear to be business travellers. So it has been very easy to navigate train stations and the like because although busy, they were not overwhelmingly busy. The main observation I had on arrival in Tokyo Station was the astounding number of Australians with ski gear and big bags trying to get through the crowds to the
shinkansen. Personally I was quite pleased not to have our big bag, which I sent off last night and which we should see again tomorrow.
In Yokohama we are staying at the Knot Hotel, a few minutes walk from Yokohama station. The room is quite spacious with an actual sofa, and reasonably priced at 71300 yen for 3 nights with breakfast. The only downside is no view - just the rooftop when the window is open. On balance we feel the extra space is a fair exchange, at least for a few nights.
So back to Hachinohe station and on to the shinkansen. On the Hayabusa it is slightly less than 3 hours to Tokyo station. The initial plan was to then to have lunch at our favourite gyoza place in Tokyo, Chao Chao gyoza in Ginza. But sadly it does not open for lunch. So instead we paid a quick visit to the Travelers Factory store in Tokyo Station where I purchased a few items but also collected their special New Year stamp. Then onto Yokohama, a short 20 minute ride on the Tokaido main line.
After all our time in the northern prefectures, the mass of humanity in Tokyo and Yokohama has been slightly disconcerting. And in particular the number of non-Japanese tourists. In the last few weeks of travel we were, in the main, the only non-Japanese tourists we saw. In the main, there domestic tourists were few and far between as well. The places we have been the main travellers appear to be business travellers. So it has been very easy to navigate train stations and the like because although busy, they were not overwhelmingly busy. The main observation I had on arrival in Tokyo Station was the astounding number of Australians with ski gear and big bags trying to get through the crowds to the
shinkansen. Personally I was quite pleased not to have our big bag, which I sent off last night and which we should see again tomorrow.
In Yokohama we are staying at the Knot Hotel, a few minutes walk from Yokohama station. The room is quite spacious with an actual sofa, and reasonably priced at 71300 yen for 3 nights with breakfast. The only downside is no view - just the rooftop when the window is open. On balance we feel the extra space is a fair exchange, at least for a few nights.
ShelleyB-son was keen for some shopping, so headed out. I won’t bore you with the details but to comment that the Kinokuniya bookshop nearby had an extensive Japanese languange learning section (better than the Dymocks in Melbourne CBD) and we both bought texts to continue our language learning journey at half the price of home.
Also this baby model was a bit distubing.
To make up for missing Chao Chao gyoza, we found a little gyoza place called Menten Gyoza in the basement of one of the shopping complexes near Yokohama station. And by little I mean 10 seats. There was a small queue but we were probably seated in 20 mins. Perfectly nice gyoza (ShelleyB-son ate about 3 serves, plus 1 serve for me) and a whiskey highball for me for a total cost of 2200 yen. Ridiculously cheap.
Also this baby model was a bit distubing.
To make up for missing Chao Chao gyoza, we found a little gyoza place called Menten Gyoza in the basement of one of the shopping complexes near Yokohama station. And by little I mean 10 seats. There was a small queue but we were probably seated in 20 mins. Perfectly nice gyoza (ShelleyB-son ate about 3 serves, plus 1 serve for me) and a whiskey highball for me for a total cost of 2200 yen. Ridiculously cheap.
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