We bless the rains down in Africa, gunna take some time...

The lounge peeps must have been glad to see us go. I managed to push half the bechamel sauce off my plate onto the table trying to cut through the overtoasted muffins, then bAlt managed to knock his glass of champers off the drinks table and somehow it broke, just hitting the carpet.

Boarding though gate 10 was a shemozzle. It's a corridor behind a store and people stood around waiting to board, in case they miss the flight. They were boarding people who needed assistance first, and there were 15 just in wheelchairs!!! So many people thronging the ropes, a real lot of them older people who always seem to be the most impatient.

No amplifed PA. One poor Qantas employee began calling for First and the throng moved forward. Yeh nah, none of you are flying first. The few who were squeezed through, then they called Group 1 and we too pushed our way past them.

We haven't been on an A380 since 2012 and the enormity of one still surprises me. We were in 37A/K, the last window/aisle seat on the left of the plane. Only one window and one storage locker. Seat Guru says limited recline, if it was we didn't notice. If we could change we'd sit there for our return. Apart from lots of crumbs down the side of the seat, the plane itself felt like new inside. Maybe it's one of the most recent refurbs?

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PDB of Lois bubbles. Some will scoff but we like it
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I'll call out straight away the crew in PE were outstanding. There was lots of confusion in the middle rows with older couples not sitting together and trying to move amongst themselves. One older gent just stood in the aisle just behind us and said he didn't have a seat. There was one empty seat in PE and guess what, it was his. Once the crew had sorted everyone out it was time to go.

The CSM made his announcements and he couldn't have sounded more disinterested if he'd tried. Maybe it was just the way he always spoke but gee he sounded jaded. Saw him once not long before we landed in JNB and he had that look of avoid at all costs.

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Pulled back just a few minutes late and took off to the north, hooked back around over Royal National Park then along the south coast before heading west to South Africa.

Donna one of the cabin supervisors came and introduced herself to me/us. Had a couple fo lovely chats with her over the course of the flight as she checked in with us. Guess I was the only WP in PE.

Menu SYD-JNB
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Definitely got the WP treatment the whole way to JNB. First to be asked our drink orders and we went with a vodka and lemonade for me and chardonnay for bAlt
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then Teresa came and asked me what I wanted for lunch. I chose the chicken
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and after that was delivered asked bAlt what he wanted and after he was served his beef
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standard service began for the rest of PE. We could feel the eyes on us from people across and behind us - "why are they getting served first?".

the chardy that I also went with for lunch
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just me
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lunch finished with a delicious Bulla icecream. Mine was edible straight away but bAlt's was like the usual rock hard tubs
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the rst of the flight was pretty uneventful. I completed all of the puzzles in my mag, that someone had spilled a drink on on a previous flight, and was going to start on Al's mag, the March edition (!!!) but didn't bother. Watched some tv, series 5 of some trashy show called The Challenge that had all episodes except the finale!

Snacked from the self service bar. Drank some wine, had some beers. Quite a bit of ongoing turbulence the whole way across. It seemed to happen the moment there was a trolley in the aisle but despite the recent inury on the domestic flight into BNE, service continued and the seatbelt seat did not come on until we started our decsent into JNB.

When we were chatting to Donna at one stage she was telling us about a stall at the Rosebank Markets where she has struck up a friendship with one of the stallholders there. He makes animals out of old Nescafe pods. In here bag on this trip were 2000ish cleaned and flattened pods to give to him. Donna's ongoing support of him, and other staff who are buying his little animals, has resulted in his business being able to support his family. Bloody excellent!!

Light dinner and we both had the beef. It was really tasty and super tender. We enjoyed all of the food.
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Crossing the coast of South Africa near Durban
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It wasn't too long before we started the descent into JNB and we pulled up at the gate a few minutes early.

We expected the same hour long line-up at immigration but if took maybe 15 minutes. Super smiley immigation office who didn't ask where I was staying, how long I was staying or what I was doing. Just how was I and a stamp and "welcome Mr bigPeteb. Al got asked what he was doing in SA. He must have looked more dodgy than me :)
 
Bags came out pretty quickly and we were on out into the craziness that is road side at JNB where everyone wants to be your friend and help you.

We were staying at the Protea and knew where the shuttles left from but still someone tagged along and then asked for a tip when all he'd done was walk with us. Then another guy who asked us what hotel we were staying at and pointed out the bus as it pulled up also put his hand out. I understand the poverty but also get a bit overwhelmed by the contstant had out for literally doing nothing.

We'll be running the gauntlet again this morning when we rturn for our flight to Nairobi.

The Protea is a favourite of many on here when transitting JNB and we can understand why Protea Hotel O.R. Tambo Airport - With Pool & Free Airport Shuttle It's a surprisingly decent drive from the airport considering it's actually across the road from it.

Easy check in. Such a cool aircraft theme throughout the hotel.

Look at the wing above reception as bAlt captured me checking in
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541 up on the top floor looking stright back at the apron where our A380 David Warren was getting ready for departure. Around it were Emirates and BA A380s and a Lufthansa 787-800
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Great functional room with a very odd bathroom!
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We'd both tried to stay awake for the whole flight, with the intent to get a decent night's sleep so we went down and had a couple of beers and some snacks. David Warren on it's way bask to SYD
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the hotel lobby
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and so endeth our trip across the Indian Ocean. I had the coughpy nigh's sleep that I expected to have but maybe managed five broken hours. I'll be very tired by the time we get to our hotel in Nairobi.
 
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We're pretty economical with our clothes when we travel so what we'd worn down to Sydney on Thursday night and went into our backpacks as our 'if our bags don't arrive t-shirts' came back out today. We can do a small wash when we get to our first lodge.

Pulled back the curtains and a BA A380 was just arriving but it wasn't the noise from that that got me stir, it was our first wildlife viewing of our trip :)
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Really good buffet for breakfast. I can't bring myself to wander round taking pictures of all of the interesting things but this bread definitely deserved a shot.
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It was soft cakey texture and quite nice. The little doughnut things back left were delicious. I also tried a super spicy beef mince dish and a similarly spicy vege accompaniment.

Couple of shots around the hotel
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We had no idea how long it was going to take to check in and go through security and immigration so we took the 9:15 shuttle back to JNB for our 12:00 flight to Nairobi.

Kenya flies from terminal A and checkin was right at the far end, looking straight back at the Protea
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Our Kenya AIrways 788 arriving from Nairobi
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As soon as the plane was at the gate they called us to get ready for boarding. This was at about 11, for a 12:10 flight, when noone had even started getting off the plane. Bizarre.

So we joined the line and watched as people handed over their boarding passes and then went back to where we'd all been sitting, this time with a staff member standing at the access point blocking exit from the seating area. We handed over our boarding passes, got the stubs back, and went and sat back down. If you wanted to go pee you had to hand over your stub to the guy controlling the walk through.

They eventually started boarding the J passengers who'd been sitting in a separate little glassed area and everyone got up and joined that small line. Boarding was quite orderly,, well, if you ignore a rude Indian couple who didn't care about the line and just walked past most people already queued up and joined in front if us. I though maybe they were J pax but I could see her stub and they were in 26, even further back than us. Even going down the aerobridge she was itching to push past the people in front of them.

Whatevs. Rude people are everywhere

Serengeti Plains? Even the young American kid (college age) behind us commented to his family "aren't they in Tanzania?"
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25 A/B. Lots of legroom but zero window :(
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Pushed back pretty much on time. As we were taxiing the cabin crew past out bottles of water to everyone. Lunch followed not long after takeoff for our just under four hour flight to Nairobi. Choice of fish or beef

Fish
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beef
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both quite tasty. Juice and soft drinks offered. No beer :( Score one for AIrlink!

Arrived 20 minutes early and my Simify eSIM connected straight away, just as it had done on touch down in JNB. Only bought on Wednesday as they offered an 3gb 30 day Africa plan for about $30 that covered SA, Kenya and Tanzania. I foolishly activated it as soon as I installed the eSIM, luckily exactly 30 days before our flight home!

We also have the option of the free 15 day Flexiroam plan that comes with our 28 degree cards but everythting we've read says it doesn't include Kenya, just SA and Tanzania for our trip. We contacted then to check but no response. bAlt is going to activate when we are in tanzania then just see what happens when we cross back into Kenya.

Spotted an ATM on the way to immigration so got out 10,000 shillings to kick us off. Only 1000s dispensed so my plan was to get them broken down when we got to the hotel.

WhatsApped out Tapestry contact Albert to let him know that we'd arrived. He massaged back letting us know that another Tapestry employee Kevin would be waiting for us, and sent his WahtsApp and photo.

Immigration didn't take long and our bags were waiting when we got to the carousel. Gotta love airtags. S good to know that your bags have arrived with you.

Then it was outside into the dry Kenyan air and Kevin walked stright over to us and welcomed us with a very warm jambo. We were introduced to Kevn who would be driving us into the city. Off we went to the carpark, loaded up the very comfy minivan, and headed out into crazy Nairobi traffic for the 40 minute drive to the Best Western.

On the quote that we'd originally received from Matt, the owner of Tapestry of Africa, the first inclusion was on arrival airport transfer.

I'd think it was a reasonable assumption that this meant an on arrival airport transfer was included.

Conversation with Tapestry with Matt, Albert and another staff member Hilda has been constant but this weekend's pickup conversation was missing. I asked Albert about them at the start of last week and his first response was a little odd - 'you booked your hotel direct didn't you?' I said yes and he then responded with 'we only offer the transfer if you book your hotel with us'. I said to him teh quote said it was included but he apologised and said he was sirry for the confusion and that they could arrange for USD25.

Now I know in the scheme of what this trip cost 25 was nothing, but if the quote included it, we were getting that transfer. I messaged Matt and asked if what Albert was saying was correct, despite what the quote said. Sheepishly Matt confirmed it, but also acknowledged that the quote didn't call it out as 'free transfer if we book your pre-stay accommodation'. I suggested he make a change to the wording of the quote template. Free transfers, tick. When we review the safari at the end will suggest return airport transfers are included, irrespective of if Tapestry books your hotels. These safaris are not cheap.

Super interesting conversation as we drove into the city. Discussed the Chinese built toll road that runs beside the normal road, the amount of debt that Kenya has with China, that China is threatening to take over the port at Mombasa. I wonder why African countries don't just close their borders to the Chinese the moment that they start making these threats? It's not as though the Chinese didn't know payment was always going to be difficult.

Nairobi just seems very cool. We know it's dangerous and we'll be extra careful, but from a physical appearance and the bustle, we both really loved this first impression.
 
Albert was waiting outside the hotel when we arrived. Super lovely guy in person. We were given some t-shirts as a gift from Tapestry but Albert warned us traight away he thought the sizing might be wrong. bStut arrived from Dubai earlier in teh afternoon and something was mentioned about Kevin being on our safari so maybe he was going to be our driver

The happy travellers finally arrive in Kenya (they are not our bags beside me!).Kevn to the left, Albert between us
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we have two nights at the Best Western Plus Meridian https://www.bestwestern.com/en_US/b...n-plus-meridian-hotel/propertyCode.75152.html through booking.com for a really good rate. Nairobi was surprisingly expensive. Seemed like a decent location when I booked, with a number of other hotels in the vicinity. Bags get scanned on entry, as do you.

I risked booking a king bed room - Kenya is not a friend of its LGBTQ community - and nothing further was said after I was asked if the booking was for one or two rooms and I said one.

Room 121 is a standard king and I wish I'd sucked it up and booked a deluxe. I hate a room that looks out onto a wall. It's just for sleeping in I will be telling myself
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The hotel has a dinner and bar and none of us were up to wandering out into the city in the dark so we had dinner and a couple of beers. Majority of dishes on the menu were Indian with just a couple of local Kenyan and bAlt and I went with a beef stew and chicken stew respectively. Both chose the ugali as the accompaniment. Kevin and Steve had mentioned it on the way in. It was exactly as they described it - it needs to be eaten with stew!

Tusker KES500, 500 ml
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chicken
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and the beef
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It's 05:19 local time on Sunday as I type this. It's Madaraka Day today, Kenya's independance day.

Today we are doing a six hour tour called Feel like a local. I might try to get another hours sleep
 
The Chinese certainly have taken advantage of the poorer countries. There are now 75 of the world’s poorest countries that owe more than they can pay. Should have learnt by now.

It is one of the reasons we went to Botswana in 2013. China offered them several schools for control of a copper mine . Botswana said build one and we will consider your request. The school built by China was so low in standard that they told the Chinese that their presence in Botswana was not required.

Kenya airlines didn’t look too bad. No longer worried by a flight early next year.
 
You know that song. If you don't, look up the YouTube of Kristin Bell and her husband playing up to it.

I thought I'd get this started a bit early and with an intention of keeping this going real time, or as close as I can. I suppose that will depend on the internet out on those plains of Africa.

Anyways, in a week's time we'll be on our way to BNE for the first of three flights to get us to Nairobi, via SYD and JNB.

bAlt has decided to write the preface/preamble, and maybe some of the ongoing uupdates, so over to bAlt for the intro (with some input from me) -

Just a recap and some background about the reason for this trip:
Prior to COVID we had a trip booked to southern Africa that was cancelled as things shut down. As most of you know, we finally went on our Africa trip last year and had an amazing time in Livingstone, Vic Falls, then a three week tour through Botswana, Namibia and the western side of South Africa. Of black maned lions and rampaging hippos

About two months after our trip, we were sitting around talking (most likely with a beer) and I told bPeteb that I couldn’t stop thinking about the animals and Africa - he said he couldn’t either. Obviously we had no choice but to continue our African adventure.

Now for the exciting part - where to go?
At some stage bPeteb and I had watched a David Attenborough doco on the lesser known parks in Kenya and we were both really drawn to Tsavo National Park. Tsavo has huge herds of elephants covered in red dirt (permanent Holi festival for elephants?).

We hunted around for longer tours that included Tsavo but there were only a few. Finally, through safaribookings.com, I found a small company called Tapestry or Africa / Tapestry of Kenya, very new, but we just liked them straight away. This was the tour we started with 20-Day Classic Grand Kenya and Tanzania Expedition

Booking and trip details:
We started working through the details of the trip with Tapestry. Usually they offer shorter trips within Kenya so this trip would involve three segments to allow for the driver and vehicle in Tanzania meeting us at the Masi/Serengeti crossing and then passing us back over (kicking us out if we’ve been a pain to drive around) near Mt Kilimanjaro, where we cross back into Kenya for the final part of our trip.

bPeteb spent some time discussing money and accommodation with Matt (one of the owners) and they changed a few things around to get the price to match our budget.

We asked a friend of ours, who bPeteb works with, and who we'll call bStu, if he wanted to come. He’d shown great interest in our previous Africa trip and said yes, even if the spend terrified him. Three is better so that we have someone else to talk to instead of just to each other for three weeks. It is great to be able to share experiences like this with someone.

Nairobi to Mombasa, 20 days, 12 parks/reserves (with Ngorongoro crater), including Tsavo, Kenya and Tanzania.

How to get there?
We were always going to fly Qantas to get the status credits for bPeteb and hope to use points for my flight. It’s not the most economical route, by either time or money, when you factor in the additional flights required - Joburg to Nairobi/Mombasa return.


Our travelling companion bStu, obviously thought three weeks together was (more than) enough and didn’t see the need to sit beside us on the plane, so he headed the other direction to get there, booking with Emirates with just the one stop in Dubai then into Nairobi.

Thanks bAlt, back to normal programming.

QF had an international sale at just the right time. Last year it was Y and J. This year we decided on PE both ways. I didn't even have to call to get PE CR seats released for bAlt. They were there just waiting to be selected. Then I had to call to make my booking as I couldn't select a flight down to SYD the night before, even thought it had been offered for the CR.

Flights booked. Safari next. We went from mid and luxury to 100% mid. Original quote just for us was USD8299pp. Adding bStu brought the overall cost down. bStu would have been USD7599 and we would be USD6948 but as we'd invited bStu we decided to split it three ways. It ended up being USD7165pp.

Safari booked, it was on to hotels for the nights before we start our trip on June 2.

bStu said he'd be looking after his own flights and would meet us in Nairobi so it was just ours. Novotel Sydney International, Protea OR Tambo and Best Western Plus Meridian.

Then of course with the reintroduction of the A380 to the SYD-JNB route, QF changed our flights to departure the day before. Grrr. Then had to call to get bAlt sitting beside me as I could select seats that he couldn't. I moved the first two hotels to the day before and added an extra night to our Nairobi booking.

Then the hotel I'd booked in Mombasa, through QF Hotels became unavailable, so after rebooking that by changing it to two hotels, we're left with this


QF 547 BNE-SYD Y
Novotel Sydney International Airport Hotel
QF 63 SYD-JNB Y+
Protea Hotel O.R. Tambo, Johannesburg
KQ 761 JNB-NBO Y exit row
Best Western Plus Meridian Hotel - 2nts
Ikweta Safari Camp, Kenya - 2nts
Samburu Sopa Lodge, Kenya - 2nts
Rhino Watch Safari Lodge, Kenya
Lake Nakuru Lodge, Kenya
Naivasha Kongoni Lodge, Kenya
Fig Tree Camp, Masai Mara, Kenya - 2nts
Acacia Enkirari Wilderness Camp, Serengeti, Tanzania - 2nts​
Ngorongoro Forest Tented Lodge, Tanzania​
Tarangire Simba Lodge, Tanzania - 2nts
Tarangire Simba Lodge, Tanzania
Chanya Lodge, Tanzania
Amboseli Sopa Lodge, Kenya - 2nts
Balloon safari
Taita Hills Safari Resort & Spa, Kenya
Ashnil Aruba Lodge, Kenya
Sentrim Castle Royal Hotel, Mombasa, Kenya
Voyager Beach Resort, Mombasa, Kenya - 2 nts
KQ 603 MBA-NBO Y and KQ 762 NBO-JNB Y exit row
Radisson Red Johannesburg Rosebank
QF 64 JNB-SYD Y+ and QF 532 SYD-BNE Y (bAlt is seated in J!)

I keep checking our flights every day. bStu told me he's doing the same.

This time next week we'll be at the J lounge at BNE.

Can't wait for this TR 😍✈️🍾🥂🦓🐘🦛🦏🦒🦌 I love the Protea at OR Tambo. Have you guys stayed there previously?
 
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Super interesting conversation as we drove into the city. Discussed the Chinese built toll road that runs beside the normal road, the amount of debt that Kenya has with China, that China is threatening to take over the port at Mombasa. I wonder why African countries don't just close their borders to the Chinese the moment that they start making these threats? It's not as though the Chinese didn't know payment was always going to be difficult.

Nairobi just seems very cool. We know it's dangerous and we'll be extra careful, but from a physical appearance and the bustle, we both really loved this first impression.
China play a looong game. They do not want repayments. Prefer to take over the asset, for way under market value, for debt (that could never be repaid). With corruption of local "leaders" on a jumbo scale.
Chinese built & operated (standard gauge) railway Madaraka Express Passenger Service – Kenya Railways
The old Kenya railways are Cape Gauge and not standard gauge.

In Kenya local Indian (or Pakistani) restaurants are usually good value and good quality. Your ugali & stew is typical African.

Nairoberry can be dangerous. Years ago was walking past the NBO Hilton and some teenagers grabbed the girlfriends (fake) gold drooping earnings. Don't walk anywhere at night.

{My screen name is Swahili for "wanderer ~ traveller"]
 
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20 years ago, I thought Nairobi the scariest place on the planet, although over time I did usurp that perception in other places .
Once out in the bush the place was fine..
Even then the Chinese were invading by stealth. I found a partially buried pipeline out in the bush ; the guide said ..Oh that goes up to the dam.. well where the dam might have been if all the Chinese money had not been squandered on other stuff...
 
Yes, I knew you knew it well. First time for us. City Lodge last year.

Groovy aero theme. Hope you enjoy it 🥂 And then you head out into the garden after grabbing your first cold beer and look straight back across to JNB where you will be able to see QF63 parked up. Well, I have the last few times 🤞
 
The lounge peeps must have been glad to see us go. I managed to push half the bechamel sauce off my plate onto the table trying to cut through the overtoasted muffins, then bAlt managed to knock his glass of champers off the drinks table and somehow it broke, just hitting the carpet.

Boarding though gate 10 was a shemozzle. It's a corridor behind a store and people stood around waiting to board, in case they miss the flight. They were boarding people who needed assistance first, and there were 15 just in wheelchairs!!! So many people thronging the ropes, a real lot of them older people who always seem to be the most impatient.

No amplifed PA. One poor Qantas employee began calling for First and the throng moved forward. Yeh nah, none of you are flying first. The few who were squeezed through, then they called Group 1 and we too pushed our way past them.

We haven't been on an A380 since 2012 and the enormity of one still surprises me. We were in 37A/K, the last window/aisle seat on the left of the plane. Only one window and one storage locker. Seat Guru says limited recline, if it was we didn't notice. If we could change we'd sit there for our return. Apart from lots of crumbs down the side of the seat, the plane itself felt like new inside. Maybe it's one of the most recent refurbs?

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PDB of Lois bubbles. Some will scoff but we like it
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I'll call out straight away the crew in PE were outstanding. There was lots of confusion in the middle rows with older couples not sitting together and trying to move amongst themselves. One older gent just stood in the aisle just behind us and said he didn't have a seat. There was one empty seat in PE and guess what, it was his. Once the crew had sorted everyone out it was time to go.

The CSM made his announcements and he couldn't have sounded more disinterested if he'd tried. Maybe it was just the way he always spoke but gee he sounded jaded. Saw him once not long before we landed in JNB and he had that look of avoid at all costs.

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Pulled back just a few minutes late and took off to the north, hooked back around over Royal National Park then along the south coast before heading west to South Africa.

Donna one of the cabin supervisors came and introduced herself to me/us. Had a couple fo lovely chats with her over the course of the flight as she checked in with us. Guess I was the only WP in PE.

Menu SYD-JNB
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Definitely got the WP treatment the whole way to JNB. First to be asked our drink orders and we went with a vodka and lemonade for me and chardonnay for bAlt
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then Teresa came and asked me what I wanted for lunch. I chose the chicken
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and after that was delivered asked bAlt what he wanted and after he was served his beef
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standard service began for the rest of PE. We could feel the eyes on us from people across and behind us - "why are they getting served first?".

the chardy that I also went with for lunch
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just me
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lunch finished with a delicious Bulla icecream. Mine was edible straight away but bAlt's was like the usual rock hard tubs
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the rst of the flight was pretty uneventful. I completed all of the puzzles in my mag, that someone had spilled a drink on on a previous flight, and was going to start on Al's mag, the March edition (!!!) but didn't bother. Watched some tv, series 5 of some trashy show called The Challenge that had all episodes except the finale!

Snacked from the self service bar. Drank some wine, had some beers. Quite a bit of ongoing turbulence the whole way across. It seemed to happen the moment there was a trolley in the aisle but despite the recent inury on the domestic flight into BNE, service continued and the seatbelt seat did not come on until we started our decsent into JNB.

When we were chatting to Donna at one stage she was telling us about a stall at the Rosebank Markets where she has struck up a friendship with one of the stallholders there. He makes animals out of old Nescafe pods. In here bag on this trip were 2000ish cleaned and flattened pods to give to him. Donna's ongoing support of him, and other staff who are buying his little animals, has resulted in his business being able to support his family. Bloody excellent!!

Light dinner and we both had the beef. It was really tasty and super tender. We enjoyed all of the food.
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Crossing the coast of South Africa near Durban
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It wasn't too long before we started the descent into JNB and we pulled up at the gate a few minutes early.

We expected the same hour long line-up at immigration but if took maybe 15 minutes. Super smiley immigation office who didn't ask where I was staying, how long I was staying or what I was doing. Just how was I and a stamp and "welcome Mr bigPeteb. Al got asked what he was doing in SA. He must have looked more dodgy than me :)

The tucker in PE looked pretty decent 😋
 
Breakfast was a pretty standard buffet with some interesting Indian additions. No photos taken first morning

We looked for food tours in Nairobi and there really wasn’t much on offer so then we searched on walking tours and ended up booking this - 2025 City Tour/Feel Like a local for a moment (Nairobi) - with Reviews. It was USD55pp for six hours including lunch and public transport.

Although it was sold as pick up from specific inner city hotels, the hotels weren’t named and when I contacted Starvel Safaris, the company that ran the tour, a couple of weeks out from travel to ask about pick up, they advised we would need to make our own way to the meeting point. Navigator bAlt googled it and it was a 10 minute walk away.

So that’s what we did. We confirmed with the hotel staff at the door that where we were heading was correct, and straight after saying yes said please be careful with your things if you are walking.
Our guide Caroline had called both bStut and I on WhatsApp to let us know it would be a 9am start instead of 8 and that suited us all perfectly.

We got to the meeting point early and three white guys are quite the target for anyone and everyone trying to sell their services. These people if nothing if not persistent. To make it worse bStut is way too nice and instead of just saying no, he just keeps the conversation going. Luckily we’re only in Nairobi for one day!

When I eventually checked my phone just before 9 I realised I still had it on flight mode. When I switched that off I got the missed calls and messages from Caroline that she was running late. I called her back and she said she was still about five minutes away.

Caroline was literally a ray of sunshine and joy and we had the most excellent day. It was a day of great information and a huge amount of laughs. She thought we were hilarious. We’d walked from our hotel? How did we know where to go? Weren’t we scared?

First instruction was the same we had been given when we’d been brought in from the airport - don’t leave your phone in your pocket without your hand in there with it. This was followed with no wallets in pockets or in the front pocket of our packs. Then we were off.

When we’d come in on Saturday arvo I’d noticed what I’d thought were fashion shoots happening around the city centre. Caroline explained it was actually young guys trying to make a living by taking photos of anyone passing by. They take some photos, you pay, they send you the digital images. There were dozens of them everywhere around the city.

First destination was the Jomo Kenyatta International Convention Centre Kenyatta International Convention Centre - Wikipedia

A really super cool group of 70s buildings that were still exactly the same as when they were built. It was like stepping into a time warp - the carpet, the glossy varnished timbers, exposed cast concrete. I loved it. You go here to visit the roof top viewing platform to look out across Nairobi. 27 floors up then another two up onto the viewing deck and helipad. I’m not one for heights but the view was excellent and it wasn’t at all scary up there..

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Nairobi is such a crazy architectural mish mash and it was all down below and around us. Buildings from the late 1800s right through to modern skyscrapers with art deco, brutalist, modernist and every other style of architecture built beside each other. So much is in a state of disrepair but that is what it is. If it works then the superficiality of fresh paint or repair of some tiles that have fallen off a façade are not important.

Caroline explained all of the different neighbourhoods. Just as we’d discussed with Kevin and Steve the afternoon before, we talked about the influence of China and Kenya’s growing debt to them. She asked me if I thought that Kenya would ever pay that debt off and I said I doubt it.

We talked about the people uprising in 2024, that she took part in, walking from her outer community all the way to the senate buildings. She described the horror of people being shot by army snipers. It was a very powerful moment.

Once back down we went and got some fresh juices. The apple and ginger had A LOT of fresh ginger in it.

Next destination was the Marumbi Gallery Kenya National Archives. It housed and incredible collection of art and artifacts collected by Joseph Marumbi, the second vice president of Kenya. Some amazing carved wooden statues.
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The tour was sold as visiting three different malls to experience how locals spend their day but due to it being Madaranka Day, the celebration of Kenya gaining independence, the plan was changed to include just one mall - Twin Rivers. We were going there to see a Maasai craft market down in the basement. In hindsight I think we would have all preferred just to walk the city, but it gave us the opportunity to experience local public transport.

The plan was to catch a large matata (minibus) so we headed off to the specific place in the city that it left from, with very clear instructions to keep our hands in our pockets and our phones in our hands. This was the only time I felt in any way threatened. Someone pressed up against me and then whispered something to me while squeezing my backpack.

We got to the matata that Caroline usually used but it was not ready to go so we headed another couple of blocks and piled into a battered long wheel base Hiace and off we went. As we were finishing loading bStut became the centre of attention. "Jesus" they were calling out due to his bushy grey beard. On top of not being white, I didn't realise that Jesus was also 200kg+!
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One word to describe the matata ride - hilarious! A guy sits shotgun and pulls the door open and closed as we see people beside the road.
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At one point we pulled into a servo where they proceeded to pour water on the very hot radiator cap.
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Two Rivers Mall is a huge complex of shopping mall and amusement park. The market is down in the basement and as I’ve said, we kinda could have given it a miss. We’re not really market people but of course we stopped at the very first stall that we came to and attempted to buy a couple for t-shirts. Before I get to the negotiations I’ll mention sizing. At home I’m an L to XL in t-shirts. Here I am a 3XL. Yikes! We both chose the shirts that we wanted then Caroline started the haggling. Of course it was in Swahili so I had no idea what was going on. Eventually Caroline said let’s go so we walked away. They had wanted KES1000 each plus an additional charge. I thought at KES1000 they were cheap but apparently not.

Then we came to a shop selling paintings and it of course sucked us in. Could have bought half a dozen but we settled on one - a modern interpretation of some crown cranes. Starting price 7000 but Caroline eventually offered 2000. Then 3000 and she said to me he wants 4000 and I said done. That’s under $50. We haven’t even started the safari and we have a picture to keep safe for the next three and a bit weeks.
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Back on a big matata this time and to finish the trip with lunch.

Local market that sells flowers and I'm sure Caroline said meat
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This was at G&R restaurant. I thought that I jotted down what it was we ate but it was delicious. Like a biriyani but with small chunks of beef and served with a soup that you spooned over the rice. Simple but delicious.
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It was a great little trip. Sure we didn't do exactly as promised, and I'd originally thought to suggest more local markets in my feedback, but looking back maybe they just aren't safe enough.
 
The hotel has quite an odd internal ‘atrium’ that has a solid roof over it and is boarding on dark. On level one, just outside our room, is this weird garden area full of weird dome structures, plastic plants and small water features. They have a tea/coffee station set up in the space where you can sit and have a cuppa until 4 in the afternoon
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We made ourselves a beverage and I sat there and started to type before we decided to head to the bar instead. It was there we saw a poster showing the roof top pool. How did we not know about this? So up we went and found this. Pool, bar, view, food, music, wonderful service. Bloody excellent!!!
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We stayed too late and drank a few too many considering what was about to happen the next morning at 7.
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I risked a T-bone steak that I shouldn’t have. Half of it was overcooked and it was tough.
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bAlt’s fish and chips was a success
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and bStu’s sweat and sour chicken (he is a man of very simple tastes).
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Nairobi unscathed. Tick
 

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