Twice around the world in 40 days

[Pushka]

With the only exception being that I post the odd pics from my phone (usually 'View from the Office') direct, I always use the Word/snipping tool method, especially for image-laden TRs. I think the resolution is perfectly fit for purpose and the huge advantage is the much smaller image size and much faster loading of pages.

I’m thinking this will need me to take a laptop. I wonder if there is an app that does similar.

 

[JohnM]

I’m thinking this will need me to take a laptop. I wonder if there is an app that does similar.

I just Googled this: Snipping Tools for iPad Free Download | iPad Productivity | Snipping Tools

But, on very quick read, it doesn't appear to enable you to save the snip as a .jpg for then uploading. May be worth a play.

 

[RooFlyer]

Morning dawned sunny, and by abt 7:30 there were already some soaking in the brines of the Dead Sea. I swam in it the last time I was here and its not somewhere I would choose to swim for an extended time. Obviously its VERY salty and any cut or other skin perforation you have - you'll feel it! Its also rich in various chemicals which is why Israel and Jordan both have evaporation ponds here, to concentrate the brines so they can extract the minerals. RH pic is behind the CP Dead Sea to show that its a little island of hotels here, with only a few having water frontage.



After bidding a farewell to the CP Dead Sea (and not looking back), I headed off for Masada, with my final destination for the day being Tel Aviv. I have to thank @Daver6 for telling me about Masada, as I hadn't heard of it, and it turned into one of the highlights of the trip to Israel.

Masada is a mesa, overlooking the southern end of the Dead Sea, about 20 mins drive back north from Ein Boek.

Herod the Great built palaces on the mesa in about 40-50 AD and quite a substantial settlement arose there. In the first Roman-Jewish war in the 60s AD, the Temple in Jerusalem was destroyed and a splinter group of Jewish rebels, the Sicarii, slaughtered the Roman garrison at Masada and settled there. In 73AD, the Romans lay siege to the mesa, and those in it. After a few months, the Romans had adapted and extended a natural ramp up to the settlement, and used a battering ram to gain access. On entry, they found that the population of 960 had been killed by their brethren / suicided. Only a couple of women and children survived.

Today, its a popular spot to visit, with access up the mesa by cable car or walking up the 'snake track'. I was amazed to get free underground car parking on arrival . Bought my ticket (one way) and there was only a short wait to get a cable car.

LH is the view on approach and RH is from the lower cc station. You can see that it was another glorious sunny day, about 30 degrees.



Just think -the weight of the cables and cars etc pulling down on that rickety structure up there. I was wondering whet the guys in the RH pic were up to, but I later joined that spot. The cable ride is 900m, and starts at -257m below sea level and finishes at +33m above . Built in 1998.



Of course its all about the views up here. Looking NE towards the Dead Sea and Jordan.



On the northern end, Herod built a series of celebration/banqueting rooms stepping down from the top. LH pic is looking down from the top and RH pic is a reconstruction.



Two stages climbing down to the lower platform. Well built and perfectly safe. A few steps down, though and (seeming) more going up!



LH pic is the lower platform; on the RH, looking west towards the other access point, a long-ish drive from the next town.

 

[Daver6]

I can't believe you took the easy way up!

 

[JohnM]

Admitting it was the bigger error .

 

[RooFlyer]

Meh. I eschewed walking up Hyanu Picchu too. Life is too short to bugger yourself before the day begins. Those I passed on the way down proved to me that I made the right decision!

 

[RooFlyer]

The ramp which the Romans took to eventually gain entry to the mesa top. RH pic is the remnants of one of the Roman camps - there are several around the base of the mesa.



The mesa top is quite large, and there are a number of ruin complexes; I haven't showed many. Looking south from the highest point, my next destination are the buildings in the distance, to the left.


There, another view down to the visitor complex. Hardly anyone else here!



An interesting-looking staircase down leads to ... a freak'n huge cavern - a water cistern, carved out of the rock and lined with plaster. Its enormous. The inhabitants had a sophisticated water collection system on the whole mesa - channels carved along the sides, emptying into cisterns dotted around it.



Walking back - tour groups around the exit. I didn't want to be behind them on the walk down, so I hustled but still got jammed behind some school group.



I managed to burn 'em off, though, with all the selfies being taken (by them ).

Looking back, after the approx. 40 min walk down. Its a long way! I think you need to walk up if you are doing the sunrise thing - but also, I think the western access would be better for that?

 

[Daver6]

Looking back, after the approx. 40 min walk down. Its a long way! I think you need to walk up if you are doing the sunrise thing - but also, I think the western access would be better for that?
View attachment 124561

You have to walk up for sunrise and the cable cars don't commence operations until much later. Walking up the path you took down actually isn't too bad and quite spectacular in the dark with first light over the mountains of Jordan (given its cool and the sun isn't beating down on you). I don't think you can easily drive to the western access ramp from the the eastern side. I think its quite a long way round to get there.

View part of the way up looking across to Jordan. Lights in the far distance are Jordan.


Worth the hike

 

[RooFlyer]

Then I high-tailed it back to Tel Aviv, or rather, to Ben Gurion airport to return the hire car. Got a nasty surprise to find that the return place is several postcodes away from where you picked it up from, so setting the GPS got me hopelessly lost; at the same time I had difficulty finding a place to re-fuel; again GPS (Sygic) was only partly helpful. And its not as if you can follow the signs to 'Return Rentals' easily even when I figured out what was happening. THEN Avis wanted to charge me for some damage. Took a while but eventually they conceded that I hadn't done it (paint scrape to the bottom of the front fender. Then they completed the contract, here it is, bye-bye. Hang on, that looks too much. $50 more than the estimate. They had 'accidentally' included a tank of fuel.

All in all that Avis rental was about the worse I have experienced.

Anyway, a shuttle to the airport building and I was to get the train into the city. Staying again and the Crowne Plaza Tel Aviv Centre, a recommendation of Daver6, because it was close to the train station, the bus station and some good eating and drinking spots, all of which I took advantage of. But is expensive, though. I didn't get any change out of A$275/night and I think one night was A$310.

Really surprised that there were no announcements in English at the airport train station, and only the route destination in signs in English. I had to ask some-one on the platform what the right platform and train to get. They are diesels, and really loud and juddery when they power up leaving the platform, set in a channel below street level.



But comfortable enough; leg-room shot and adjacent seats.



Only took 15 mins to get into my stop in the centre of Tel-Aviv. Over the free-way, then again, poor signing to get to the hotel, which I knew was in the Azrieli shopping mall complex, somewhere. Asked the way, up and down escalators. Got there, checked-in OK and the room was on the same floor as before.



But no up-grade this time. Who came up with the '70s colour scheme?



Freshened up, then headed out for some wine and dinner. Looking back at the Azrieli Centre, where the hotel is the mid tower, and an adjacent skyscraper.

 

[RooFlyer]

Freshened up, first port of call in the evening was The Tasting Room, a specific recommendation of Daver6 to get an idea of the Israeli wines. The LH pic shows the bar; the tasting cellar is, naturally, underneath.



The set-up is that they have about 24 wines - mostly Israeli under argon, available for tasting. Each wine can be had via a taste, a half serve or a full serve, with prices to match. Most were about 8 shekels (divide by 3 for A$) for a taste, but up to about NIS18. You put the card in, make your wine and quantity selection, and it pours. There is a small description on each one.






I was a bit disappointed that there was no map of the wine regions, and the guy there didn't seem interested in engaging to talk about the wines.

I tasted about 8 wines, mostly reds, and followed up with glasses of the several I liked.



You can also get light tapas type meals there - bruschetta and the like. Its not that cheap - I spent about A$60, including an entrée type thing.

Hard to get a handle on the wines, with little info. None offended and the reds were certainly very drinkable, but most didn't have much bottle age on them, and you couldn't say they were terribly complex. I didn't try the Mia Luce from Upper Galilee where a taste was A$4.50 and a glass was abt A$36!

I'll look out for some when I get back to Oz. Any recommendations??

Then it was on to the nearby Sarona Market, on the ground floor of one of the towers nearby. A complex of deli-type shops, bistro eateries and so on. Cheese, seafood, meat, spices, olives, sweets, fruit & veg, wine etc.






Not sure if this is a tourist hang-out or not, but again, I was surprised at the lack of English around. Some shops and restaurants had none at all, others had prices lists and menus in English available. I'll say more on this later, but overall I was surprised at the lack of English around Israel in general (as far as I saw it), especially as Hebrew is incomprehensible unless you know it (unlike, say, French or Spanish which are widely spoken around the world and can be guessed at for a meaning at least). Maybe the independent travelling tourist market isn't that big?



'Fishop' did cater for the Anglos, so I had a nice bowl of mixed seafood linguini and a glass of white; a coffee afterwards.



When I got out of the complex, the weather had turned and the city lights were shining onto clouds above.

 

[rock86]

What a great trip report so far!

 

[Daver6]

Two quick comments. Price you paid for a good hotel in Tel Aviv is actually on the cheap side. It's an incredibly expensive city for hotels.

Israeli wines in Australia, never seen on for sale.

 

[Boca68]

Two quick comments. Price you paid for a good hotel in Tel Aviv is actually on the cheap side. It's an incredibly expensive city for hotels.

Israeli wines in Australia, never seen on for sale.

Goulburn wines in Darlinghurst

Two quick comments. Price you paid for a good hotel in Tel Aviv is actually on the cheap side. It's an incredibly expensive city for hotels.

Israeli wines in Australia, never seen on for sale.

Gefen in Chapel St, East St. Kilda , Melbourne has a reasonable selection of Israeli and other kosher wines. Reading the website just now, seems they have a store in Bondi as well.

I used to work with them in the past with kosher catering events.

 

[RooFlyer]

Two quick comments. Price you paid for a good hotel in Tel Aviv is actually on the cheap side. It's an incredibly expensive city for hotels

That makes me feel better

 

[RooFlyer]

The next day I went on a day trip to Jerusalem. I deliberately avoided a tour as I wasn't that interested in the excruciating detail that would follow. I know that's a bit strange from someone who professes a deep interest in history, but for some reason I just can't get into Biblical history. Maybe its because its always been 'there' and the stories keep coming up one way or another. I have the same attitude to the Great Wall of China. Went to see it near Beijing, not much interest in seeing more of it.

Started out with a bit of a glitch. I booked the CP in part because it was near the major bus station in Tel Aviv. When I walked the 15 mins, I realised that something was wrong. it wasn't the expected major bus station (a multi level job), but another, large one, so my bus numbers and where to go went out the window. A quick bit of googling put me back on track.

The bus trip took about 45 mins, to the major bus station in Jerusalem. he weather had stayed overcast, and a bit rainy. The bus station was about 3km from the Old City and I approached a taxi driver at the front of the 'rank', but then happened what often does and really pisses me off. Some other guy came over and started negotiating with me. Not interested in him, but he wouldn't let go, so I walked away. I noticed there was also a light rail heading in the right direction, but as usual I find here, no English as to access said tram / buy a ticket (a later stop did provide info). So, needing my exercise, I hoofed it, at a good pace. It was already 9am and I didn't want to be too late, as I was expecting crowds to enter the Temple Mount, and I hate crowds.

Duly arrived at the Jaffa gate to the Old City and followed my nose (and some signs) to the Western Wall, my first stop. Shops just opening!



Around a corner - and there it is. Usual nice sensation when you see something you have heard about most of your life.

The Western Wall is a remnant of the Second Temple, built by Herod the Great c20 BC. The Romans destroyed the Temple in 70AD in the face of an ongoing revolt by the Jewish people. Herod surrounded what is now called the Temple Mount with a wall (which extends far below what you can see here). It is, I read, the second holiest place for the Jewish people, the most holy being within Temple Mount, but there are access restrictions there.



You can access Temple Mount via a number of gates, the 'main' one, I read, being by the Western Wall, and is accessed by the ramp in the LH pic.


Here I was expecting massive queues, but to my surprise, there was no queue, just a modest security gate and through you go. I was told, at 10am, that the Mount would be closed at 11 for call to prayer at the mosques. Access and control of the area is in the hands of the Jordanians, but with security by Israeli forces.

Temple Mount, or Haram esh-Sharif to Muslims is a flat plaza-like area atop the former hill, constructed by Herod c20BC, with a number of pine trees relieving the landscape. The first thing you see coming this way is the Al Aqsa mosque. Again, I've heard that name so many times.




The main feature of Temple Mount is the Dome of the Rock and again., I was amazed at how few people are here, but then it dawned that most of the crowds I had seen in Jerusalem and elsewhere in Israel were Christian pilgrim types, and this is predominantly a Muslim shrine. There may have been a couple of dozen other people who were western tourists like me in the whole area.

The Dome of the Rock is a mosque finished in about 691 AD by the Umayyad Caliphate over the site of a Roman temple, itself on the site of the Second Temple. The current dome was built about 1,000 AD. there is a rock, the Foundation Stone, at its core where I read that Muslims believe Muhammad began his journey to heaven and Jewish people believe that God created the beginnings of Adam here and the world expanded out from the Rock (apologies for what is probably a botched simplification, all round!). Hence the significance of the Dome of the Rock and the temple Mount for Jews, Muslims and Christians alike.



The mosque is octagonal and not very ornate.



There are a number of arches around the Temple Mount plaza.

 

[RooFlyer]

Several structures in and around the Temple Mount, but I don't have the reference to hand (read: its close to bed-time, and I'm lazy)



View across to the north.



The Al Aqsa mosque is the third holiest place in Islam, after Mecca and Medina in Saudi Arabia (both of which I have done a 'drive-by' of ). The original mosque was built in the 700s, and it and later ones were destroyed by earthquakes, until about 1050 AD, when much of the present structure was built.


An unusual carved dome dome - I think the only one outside of Egypt. Security. I was really surprised at the lack of obvious armed forces about the place, although I observed a few buildings with suited up guys - presumably armed - on the ready. I didn't feel endangered at all, in fact except for protests this may be a very secure environment. Just before 11am, when we were due to get invited to leave, these guys appeared. Seemed pretty casual - no major guns, just crown suppression weapons obvious.

 

[RooFlyer]

I left the Temple Mount, and it was a 10 minute or so walk to the Church of the Holy Sepulchure- my other major destination in Jerusalem and the holiest place in Christendom.

Through the markets which had woken up by this time - just past 11am, I arrived through a wall gate to the courtyard in front of the Church. So this was where everyone was!! (Yes - Christian pilgrims are here - they don't go to Temple Mount). It took me a few minutes to assimilate. First, I didn't like the crowd full stop, and I wondered if it was a hassle to get into the church. This was the first time I felt a bit insecure - a packed Christian place or worship seems like a sitting duck, especially with no security at all in the access. But of course its like this every day, but never-the-less, I was on alert the whole time.



After observing for a few minutes, I realised that it was mostly tour groups in, well, groups, being lectured to. I just went around them and entered the church.

The church is important as its believed that its on the site of Jesus' Crucifixion and Resurrection and several other Stations of the Cross.

Inside was equally packed. The first thing you come across is the Stone of Unction, the place where Jesus body was anointed before burial. The current stone apparently dates from 1810. Pilgrims cram to run their hands, and bags etc, over it.



There is a problem with posting, so I'll pause here.

 

[RooFlyer]

Inside, the Church is a bit claustrophobic. Its a holy place, not a show-piece, A dome and lots of chapels, all of which escaped me as to their significance.



At one end is another large dome and beneath it the Tomb of the Holy Sepulchre, beneath a rotunda. The chapel, or Aedicule, contains the tomb of Jesus after his Crucifixion and there was a long queue to enter this. The site is shared between the Armenian, Eastern Orthodox and Catholic churches.



I went for a walk aroud the rest of the church, which i'm sure was full of very significant sites and art, but it didn't click with me. The crowds didn't help. I was about to go out, and i noticed that the queue to go up to a certain chapel had diminished considerably since I came in, so unusually for me, with a bit of time to kill, I joined the queue to see what was up. After all, its not every day you get to walk through all the stuff they taught you in Sunday School.

LH pic shows the queue shuffling slowly forward. At the top of the steps, you are into a small enclosed space, where again, it is VERY slow shuffling forward. Probably more than 70 people here.


My patience ran out so I moved to the side to make my way out, and I discovered what the attraction was.

At the Chapel of Calvary was an altar on the spot where Jesus is said to have been crucified. Pilgrims would crawl under the altar to touch the Rock of Calvary, before being gently shepherded away. The ceiling is richly decorated, but hard to see and photograph with the crowds and low ceiling.



More art at Calvary, and on the RH, some Crusader graffiti from abt 1,100 AD.

 

[RooFlyer]

After the Chiurch of the Holy Secpulchure, I was pretty well done in, as I hadn't slept well for a few nights, so i decided to head back. Saw a sign that would not please @Cruiser Elite . Near the exit gate to the Old Town there is the Citadel, or Tower of David.

A palace of Herod the Great, with the usual modifications by the conquerors through the eons, its now the museum of the history of Jerusalem and a nice place to get an overview of the town (as well as views and coffee )




It is here that Pontius Pilate was said to have judged Jesus. The palace was destroyed, rebuilt etc etc. British general Allenby accepted the surrender of the Turks here in 1917.



The Citadel tower gives great views over the city - here towards Temple Mount:





... and here looking the other way, towards 'modern' Jerusalem.



Mount of Olives LH pic, old city RH pic again.



There;s a small cafe there, and wi-fi to recuperate after a morning's slog through thousands of years of multi faith history.

Walking back up Jaffa St, i passed the former British Residence and again eschewed the efficient light rail, which goes directly up to the bus station.



Walking has its virtues. Walked past this place and thought - those are bullet holes, surly? And not surprisingly, given the history of the place. A small reminder of the turbulence of Jerusalem.



Lastly, a better-than-average busker, and last views of the hills of Jerusalem, heading back on the bus.

 

[RooFlyer]

Next morning, up bright and early for my flight back to LHR.

Back to same train station, again little indication around the platforms of where I should be etc, but again, asking someone I got there.



Yet again, poor signage at the airport departures. From the train, no signage that I saw towards 'departures' (I was looking for it, and needed such!). Just made my way to ground leveI was expecting security to enter the terminal, but there wasn't any. I went to the BA counter and was told to join a queue 'over there' for security. Odd - no scanners etc, just a guy checking passports. 10 mins in the Business queue. He noticed I'd been to Jordan (stamp), and asked me a few penetrating questions like Did I know anyone in Jordan? When was I there? Satisfied, he let me through to check-in. I wonder what he would have asked if he had noticed the full page Iran Visa.

Then to security which I would describe as 'old fashioned'. I pax per time (no 'lead in' space), stuff into bins, very slow.

I was really surprised at the low-key security performance. Won't say more. There does appear to be a new security area under construction, but for the time being, its like going back to the '90s. Out to airside 30 mins after arriving at the first security check.

I had to get rid of some excess shekels, so went to a FX counter, where I came across possibly the rudest person behind a counter I've come across in a long, long time. Quite offensive. When I had my cash and receipt in my pocket, I gave him a spray, yes, with the F word and all. I think I got his attention.

Shopping area, and I think these are cabins for smokers.



To the BA lounge ("Dan+"), which, having cleared the lounge dragon, gave me the spins:



OK, basic sort of stuff. Enough for breakfast, Wi-Fi etc.






At one point, I couldn't locate my boarding pass, notwithstanding I had it on entry, so it HAD to be here somewhere. But I couldn't find it, and thought some-one might have picked it up and not taken it to the lounge dragon. As a precaution, I asked if she could re-issue the BP. She made a (long-ish) call and then directed me to the 'information' counter in the concourse 'where they can help you'. WTF? What are they going to do, which the BA (contract) lounge can't. I had one more search through the lounge and found the BP in the gents, where I had already looked, but still ... phew.

Boarding was scheduled for 8:45am, and at 8:49 the crew went aboard. BA162 was a A321, which I thought a bit iffy for a 5.5 hr flight, but the J cabin is good. J is 1-2, alternating between rows.


I had chosen 3A, a single. Obviously oodles of leg room in sitting position, but there wasn't that much storage space around, but the direct aisle and bin access, this wasn't a big deal.