The Last Samurai, Tokyo and Sapporo

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Rokurinsha is probably most famous for tsukemen, well of all the ones I've been anyways.
There is one in Tokyo Station Ramen Street, seeing you like tsukemen I recommend it.
This one was on Sanbangai St or Nigbangai St in Shinjuku.
 
You know what, I just realised the BIG problem - you haven't tried the real soup curry!!! :eek:
 
I woke feeling ordinary again.
I wasn't concerned in the slightest about coronavirus, but still had a sore throat and was feeling tired.
I decided to try and navigate the subway system and check out Shibuya.
I bought a Suica Card and set foot into Shinjuku station to wander aimlessly and get lost.
I wanted to use the Yamanote Line which would take me to Shibuya in just a few stops.
I knew from previous reading that it is a JR operated line so I went through the JR lines turnstiles and low and behold the signage was easy.
I did made the mistake of getting on the wrong side so I ended up Shin-Okobu which meant I was headed in the wrong direction.
No drama, hopped and then got to the right platform back again.
Back at Shinjuku I now knew I was headed in the right direction and after stops at Yoyogi and Harajuku, Shibuya was the next stop.
Outside the station I came face to face with the famous Shibuya Crossing. To be honest it was in the middle of the day on a Thursday so it wasn't that busy really.

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I wandered around and did a bit of shopping, but I wanted to get back to Shinjuku before peak hour and by now I really wasn't feeling great.
Finished off with a couple of very low-key beers.

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Back to the room and quick look at 7/11 for something eat and I saw this, but didn't get it.

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In the end it was a few of these little gems and then bed.

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I had decided that if I woke feeling the same or worse, I was going to have to do something about it.
How, I wasn't quite sure.
16,528 steps wasn't a bad effort for a bloke on his sick bed.
 
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I wasn't feeling too good after first night in Nagano....so went up to the onsen and really soaked for some time then sauna. Cured everything ;)
 
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OK so this was getting to be an issue now.
Not only did I have sore throat, but a whopping headache and woke up with chills during the night.
Decided a pharmac_ might be my best bet as I didn't know how to see a doctor.
I was convinced it was just something I'd picked up on the flight over.
Went to a pharmac_ in Shinjuku and I realise there are apps where you can take a pic of something and it will tell what it says in English, but I wanted to talk to the pharmacist anyway.
I couldn't make head nor tails out of this.

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I gestured to the pharmacist that I had a sore throat and a headache and he was absolutely lovely.
Didn't speak a word of English but grabbed his iPad out and we 'talked' via a translation app.
He asked me my symptoms again and I explained. He asked if I was allergic to anything which I said no.
He suggested ibuprofen and a Chinese herbal charcoal tablet.
I was fine with that.
I asked if I could take both together and that's where the translation went wrong.
It translated into "Can we take a bath together".
I'm not joking.
I tried again and his reply was something like: "You must only have four drinks maximum".
Ummmm, OK. Can I make them really, really large drinks? Just kidding.
He needed to ask a few more questions like what other meds I was taking etc but it was all done so professionally and so wonderfully. It was actually a really great experience if that makes any sense?
With my meds brought and saying 'thank you very much' in perfect Japanese, I set out to Shinjuku Station to head for Shinagawa.
It took longer than I expected on the Yamanote Line but I finally got there.

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I should have walked around more, but I was honestly feeling like cough.
Went back to Shinjuku and forced myself to go to the Samurai Museum. No pics, but it was really cool. Recommended.
Around 5pm I decided to follow my pharmacist's advice and have four drinks.

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I went and bought a Limosuine Bus ticket for Haneda Airport. I was headed to Sapporo tomorrow. Booked the bus for 10.15am for a 1.30pm flight.
Decided to have a decent meal that didn't involve a microwave and was presented with this absolute beast of a meal.

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Thanks to @rbjhan I know realise this was tsukemen but this time with fried chicken and gozoya. It certainly cleared the sinuses.
Geez it was good.
Back to the room to bed at a very early hour and hoped like heck I felt better tomorrow.
I was disappointed that feeling so bad, I missed out on a lot of what I wanted to do in Tokyo.
But hey, it is what it is.
Only 11,233 steps today.

EDIT: notice the bike in the background of the beer pic? No bike locks required in Japan. In fact I left my phone and wallet on the bar a lot of time when I took a toilet break.
 
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An early night seemed to do the trick.
I woke up at 7.30am feeling heaps better and had some energy.
Unfortunately I would be leaving Tokyo today and spent most of my time feeling downright awful.
But enough of that.
Today was a new day and I was feeling quite good.
I even had time to actually go out for coffee.
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And then a quick trip to Lawsons for this magic one more time to eat in my room.

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After packing my bag and showering, it was a quick walk to the New Keiso Hotel where I would catch the 10.15am Limo Bus to Haneda Airport.
And sure enough it arrived right on time.
Only five people on the bus this morning and for ¥1250 ($17.50) it was reasonable value.
I could have got the train from Shunjuku and then the monorail, but honestly, the Limo Bus pick up point was so close and far less hassle.

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The trip was super quick. About 30 minutes to terminal 1.
If you are doing this, make sure you double check which terminal your flight leaves from. There's a fair distance between terminals 1 and 2 (or at least it was on the bus).
Terminal 2 came up soon after and soon I was checked in a through security very quickly.
It was a long weekend here with Monday being a holiday.
Once into the Sakura Lounge it seemed a reasonable place to relax with good views of the tarmac.
Food options were very limited and no wine.

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This thing intrigued me. FInally I could pour a decent beer. Yeah I know I got shortchanged, but it was free so refills were possible.
Proof that I was feeling much better as it was barely noon.


Before long it was time for boarding and I took my place in the queue.

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EDIT: Love the lounges in Japan. Smoking room for those who smoke and small cubicles for those who want to talk on their mobiles.
Even the children are perfectly behaved in the lounges.

DOUBLE EDIT: At 1.15pm with a 1.30pm departure I simply did not believe a full 777-200 could be boarded and leave on time. But yes. It happened. Well it was three minutes late, but who really cares? Effeciency at its best. I was loving these small things about this fascinating country.
 
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My first impressions of 1st class on the JAL domestic 777-200 were good.
Heaps of legroom, nice wide seats and a warm welcome.
blanket and pillow on the seat.

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Almost everyone swapped their shoes for the supplied slippers so I did the same.

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All FAs wore masks and announcements were made in Japanese and English.
Flight time was announced as an hour and 10 minutes.
Menu for the flight up to New Chitose.

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No pre-departure drink, but before we took off, the lovely FA asked what I would like to drink so she could serve it to me straight away.
Take off was smooth and we were on our way to Hokkaido.
I chose the pinot grigio.

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The meal service was simply outstanding.
FAs unfailingly helpful and polite.
This really hit the spot.

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My chopstick skills were rapidly improving. I was now quite confident using them. Pretty embarrassing, but I was now getting quite good.
The brown square thing on the left hand side of the photo is the steamed rice.
Here's a pic with it opened.

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Kirin Ichiban Shibori was also becoming my favourite Japanese beer.
No IFE on the flight but nothing that some music through my new Jabra 75T Elite earbuds and some more pinot grigio couldn't take care of.

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Pretty soon New Chitose Airport was coming into sight.

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And touchdown!


Flight time of one hour and 17 minutes from take off to landing.
 
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with the flight landing on time at 3.30pm and my Air B&B booked and paid for, it took a while for the bags to come out but when they did, ALL luggage was put on the carousel with the handles etc facing towards the customer.
Priority baggage worked a treat as mine was very early off the belt.
Grabbed by bag and headed to the train station.
My Suica Card was valid for the JR train from New Chitose to Sapporo.
The train was fairly crowded but found a seat.
I made a point of not sitting on all the trains I travelled UNLESSS I knew nobody else was getting on the next stop.
View of the 37-minute trip.

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Once at Sapporo station my Air B&B host had provided amazing;y detailed instructions on how to get there via the subway, but I decided to cab it and had the address written in Japanese.
My apartment was in Nakajima-koen which was three stops from Sapporo station.
My host provided amazing details on how to enter the building and the apartment and I soon found myself inside.
My cab driver knew exactly where I was going although there were two ANA buuildings right near each other. I knew mine had a 7/11 at it and when he asked for the address again, I said '7/11' and he knew what I was on about. He delivered me right to the front door of the apartment, not around the corner to 7/11.
I was instantly impressed with my choice of Air B&B.
Cost was just $370 for four nights so I couldn’t complain at all.

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No need for aircon or a fan here. Temp was hovering just above freezing and the room was quite cold when I arrived, a sure sign I was feeling much better.
The area was more a residential area, not a place of particular interest.
But there was a bar nearby called Beer Bar Basil Basil and I was determined to seek it out to enjoy a few coldies to celebrate my first night in Hokkaido.
I went to it as it was only about 200 metres away.
As I entered I didn't think it was a beer bar at all.
It was small cafe with only one beer on tap.
Still, not overly fussy about where I drank, I had a couple and decided to head out.
As I left I walked past next door and saw a sign Beer Bar Basil Basil.
I had mistakenly entered a daytime cafe and now I find out the real beer bar.
I walked inside and found a real beer bar with friendly staff.

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After a couple of brews I decided to call it quits and enter the land of sleepy bye byes.

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A quick stop at 7/11 for this and then bed time.

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woke up feeling good so no signs of any bug that might have lingered.
Forecast top temp of 3 degrees today with rain possible.
Damnit! Where's my snow.
My apartment was extremely close to the subway station and I could use my Suica card on it, so I decided to head three stops north to Sapporo.
I quickly learned there wasn't much around and that the two stops (Odori for shopping, Sasukino for nightlife and food) in between Sapporo and mine were the places to go.
Anyway once in Sapporo downtown I decided to make the shortish walk to the Sapporo Beer Museum.
Yes, I know it's very unlike me to want to sample beer before noon, but in the name of research I decided to take one for the team.
The 'museum' does tours but they are in Japanese with an English audio guide and it's ¥500. it's best just to wander around by yourself and then do the tasting afterwards.

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The all-important tasting was excellent. Here's the beer menu, but you can order a tasting platter for a reasonable price.
  • Sapporo Draft Beer Black Label: 300 JPY
  • Hokkaido exclusive: Sapporo Classic: 300 JPY
  • Kaitakushi Beer: 350 JPY
  • Three drink tasting set: 800 JPY
  • Non-alcoholic beer: 200 JPY
  • Soft drinks: 100 JPY
I was starting to develop a taste for Sapporo Classic.
After the beer I decided it was time for lunch.
I wandered back to Sapporo city and walked around Daimuru where I found a very extensive food court and it was extremely busy being a Saturday.
I eventually settled on a place and was ushered t the far corner of the restaurant away from every around a corner next to an emergency exit despite there being seats in the main part of the restaurant.
someone who saw the photo at a later date said it was Chinese food.

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It was sizzling hot and it took a good 45 minutes to get close to finishing it.
A wander around Sapporo city for a while.

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It was raining lightly so I headed back to the Air B&B. Three stops on the subway and then only about 100 metres from the station.
Nakajima-koen station was nice and small with only two platforms so even I couldn't get lost. It's on the Namboku Line.
Got back to the room and popped the heater on and went downstairs and grabbed a couple of tall boy cans of Sapporo Classic from 7/11 and Facetimed the fam back home.
I felt like ramen tonight so I headed one subway stop to the bright lights of Susukino where Ganso Ramen Yokocho (Ramen Alley) awaited although to be fair, there are heaps of ramen places nearby and you don't have to go to Ramen Alley.
The alley itself was quite small with a whole lot of eateries to be honest, but from recollection there were around a dozen and all full to bursting point.
I decided to head to St John's Wood pub for a couple of pints before heading back for ramen.

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A few cleansers and then back to ramen alley, which was still busy, but managed to find a stool at the counter of a ramen joint where one guy was cooking and taking orders.
There was no English menu and I don't eat pork, so I pointed to one dish on the menu and hoped for the best.IMG_4945.JPGIMG_4946.JPG
Can of Sapporo Classic ordered and then it came.

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I loved how slurping was not only tolerated, it was expected.
I also loved how people (male or female) would just come in, order, eat, pay and leave all in under 10 minutes.
I have never been one for eating at places by myself, but in Japan it seemed quite natural and once I'd gotten over my initial 'embarrassment', I was quite happy to do so.

So did I like the ramen?
Yes.
But it didn't blow my mind. It was a little bland for my liking, unlike the other dishes I'd tried on the this trip.
Don't get me wrong, I liked it. And it was a perfect dish to have early at night or very late at night.
It just didn't blow my mind, that's all.
It was raining still and I decided to head back to Beer Bar Basil Basil near my apartment.
What followed, was one of the highlights of my trip.
 
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Off to Beer Bar Basil Basil.
The rain had made the snow on the ground very slushy.
I had bought a cheap pair of crampons for the trip as my previous trips to Alaska and Northern Canada in winter had told me the icy footpaths were downright dangerous. But it didn't look I would need them this trip.
The guys at the bar recognised me instantly from the previous night.
I took a seat at the bar and had a Yebisu Black. Not that Yebisu is pronounced Ebbis.
I was surprised at how quickly I had picked up a few words of Japanese.
I asked for 'mizu kudasai' ('water please') and the staff were very impressed.
This dark beer was very nice and certainly a 'sipper' rather than a 'quaffer'.

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It was around 8.30pm and by now the ski crowds were starting to filter in. There were several hotels nearby and once people finish their skiing, they go out for a meal and drinks.
Most of the clientele were Asian and I saw no westerners during my time in this bar at all.
The bartender, a lovely lady by the name of Kato, had two friends drinking at the bar, a guy and a girl, both 29 years old I would find out.
Kato spoke very limited English but using a translator app, she explained to me that her two friends would like to be my friends and asked if they may join me.
Now I will confess I wasn't exactly in the mood to converse using an internet translator for the next few hours, but I couldn't exactly refuse, so I beckoned them over.
It became quite clear that they had much more to drink than I, but that was OK.
I can't remember their names, but when the guy went to the bathroom, the woman assured me that she and the man were not an item.
Umm, OK.
Anyway they turned out to be awesome.
One of the things that I found equally funny and annoying at the same time during my whole time in Hokkaido was what followed when I introduced myself by my first name which is Justin.
"JUSTIN BIEBER" would be the reply every single damn time to much merriment and laughter.
In the end I resorted to "No, Justin Timberlake" which only caused more merriment and cackling laughter.
Anyway after a few drinks together, it was suggested we play the 'alligator game'.
It involved a toy alligator with buttons for teeth. You take turns in pressing the teeth until eventually one of the teeth leads to the alligator's mouth snapping shut and you lose the round.
The duo racked up six shots of God knows what and we decided to play six games. The loser had to skoll a shot.
I offered to pay, but was met with "No, Japanese hospitality" on the man's iPhone.
Anyway it was heaps of fun, and I had only had a couple of beers so wasn't worried in the slightest about losing.
After the guy had lost the first three rounds, I was actually hoping i would lose a round so I could have whatever it was that was in the shot glasses.
On the fourth go, she lost and had to skoll.


By now things were starting to get messy and for once it wasn't me who was in a bad way.
Two more games to go and by now I was really praying that I would lose so these two people weren't forced to drink more hard liquor. They clearly didn't need it.
He lost the fourth game and then he lost the sixth and final game as well.
This video goes for a minute, but it gives you an idea of the fun.
Listen for "Justin Bieber" when it's one of my turns.


As the camera tilts up at the end you can see him clearly struggling.
Anyway, we'd played six games of this damn thing and I hadn't lost one.
Typical.
When I want to win, I don't. When I don't won't to win, I do.
By now it was obvious there would be no more games of alligator.
He and I went outside for a smoke (in my case a vape) and he could barely stand let alone talk.
I was actually a little worried.
I had to help him back inside and amazingly, he ordered another beer.
Certainly no RSA in Japan by what I could tell.
After a few sips, he vomitted into his glass, filling it up with all sorts of things that had been eaten that day.
The staff thought it was hilarious and everyone in the entire bar was saying sorry to me.
Maybe after the laughter, everyone was embarrassed.
I tried to explain that this happens in Geelong most days of the week, but it clear they were both well gone.
As she was the less inebriated of the two, I suggested she makes sure he gets home safe and she said she would, but said she wanted to spend more time with me and said she would be back in an hour.
Now, I don't profess to be the most attractive man on the planet and clearly not in Justin Bieber nor Justin Timberlake's calibre, but I wasn't going to find out.
They left and after one more beer and a warm sake, I made sure I left before the hour was up.

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All in all a really fun and eye opening experience.
I'll never forget that damn alligator, which was actually 'Crocodile Dentist'.

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