The Ireland trip - with some detours.

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Hi OZDUCK I am really enjoying your trip report especially as I am doing a road trip of Ireland in September. We are planning on picking up our car in Dublin at about 1pm and our first nights accommodation will be in Kilkenny. Do you think it is worth making a stop at Glendalough on our way?

(Glad you are enjoying it.)

Firstly, I think Kilkenny looked like a interesting town in the limited time we had there so it should be good for a stopover.

Like earlyriser, I would say "Yes" to a Glendalough stop. It is well worth at least a quick visit. We were there for about 90 minutes on the bus trip and that gave time for a reasonable look around the old monastic area and a walk down to the Upper Lake - admittedly with little time to stop there. Of course the tour guide was trying to wrangle the group so you could probably see more. Afterwards we drove through the Wicklow Mountains on the way to Kilkenny and that was a nice drive.

As regards a choice between the Ring of Kerry and the Dingle Peninsula, if the weather is reasonable I would think the Ring of Kerry would be the first choice. We enjoyed Dingle more because we had sunshine instead of the cloud, fog & rain we got on the Ring. However, I think there are an awful of lot of good vistas that we missed out on our Ring drive. But be aware that it is a full days drive and much slower than you think it would be - poor roads and huge numbers of tour buses. I would suggest that you have a look on the TripAdvisor forum for Ireland as this is a common question there and the locals chime in with better knowledge than me. For an older thread see https://www.tripadvisor.com.au/Show...ninsula_If_you_had_to_choose_one-Ireland.html

But either one would be a good choice and your tour route might be a deciding factor.
 
Thanks for the parking advice at the Cliffs of Moher!!!!
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(I just noticed this one.)

If you are into hiking or want to avoid some driving down narrow roads there is a shuttle bus that will pick up/drop off at a number of points and give you some extra flexibility. Home - Cliffs Of Moher If you look at their map of pick up points - we parked near "Number 7 Kilconnel". You don't have to be an athlete to walk from there but it is a tiring walk doing the trip both ways - though the views make it worthwhile. The bus does mean that you could do a longer one-way walk.
 
'

(I just noticed this one.)

If you are into hiking or want to avoid some driving down narrow roads there is a shuttle bus that will pick up/drop off at a number of points and give you some extra flexibility. Home - Cliffs Of Moher If you look at their map of pick up points - we parked near "Number 7 Kilconnel". You don't have to be an athlete to walk from there but it is a tiring walk doing the trip both ways - though the views make it worthwhile. The bus does mean that you could do a longer one-way walk.

Hi just looked it up. Fantastic service and one that we will definately use. Thanks for all your very useful advice.
 
Hi just looked it up. Fantastic service and one that we will definately use. Thanks for all your very useful advice.

No worries, that is why most of come here - to give and receive advice. (As well as look at lovely photos and dream of trips. And also to get a laugh from other posts.)
 
After three nights in Leenaun we moved onto Glenties in County Donegal. On the way there we stopped for lunch in Donegal itself and the woman who served us asked where we were staying. When I said Glenties she said that it was "in the Wild West" - I think that it is probably as far beyond the Black Stump as anywhere in Ireland we visited.


Our B & B in Glenties, with our car out the front - about a 10 minute walk out of town

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Nearby are the cliffs at Slieve League. These cliffs are three times as high as those at The Cliffs of Moher - just over 600 metres high. Our B & B hostess advised us that while there is a gate across the road to the lookout you can drive through it as long as it is closed after you. Some visitors did not know this and had a 600 metre walk uphill. As usual local knowledge is king.

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The weather conditions up here right on the edge of the Atlantic are wildly variable. This photo was taken less than 10 minutes after the previous one.

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On the Cliffs of Moher we had Mountain Cows here we had Mountain Sheep


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There are lots of little bays and harbours in this area

Silver Strand -

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Malinberg Martello Tower on the nearby headland

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Glen Bay Beach nearat Glencolumbkille is about 15 Km north of Silver Strand. The buildings in the bottom right of the picture are part of the Glencolumbkille Folk Village containing replica and reconstructed buildings showing the living conditions in this area of Ireland over the last 300 years.

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You have to be on your guard on these, and many other roads in Ireland,

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Another little harbour

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Donegal Town

Unfortunately, jams like this are common in the bigger towns you pass through as there are very few bypass roads. It took us about 25 minutes to get past the spot where the bus was sitting

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Donegal Castle - 15 - 17th Century. It has more than just the "normal" clockwise twist in the old stone stairs to allow right-handed swordsman to have an advantage over attackers coming up thm. The treads are also uneven and vary in height so you are unable to be fully balanced.
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Looking back over the harbour to Donegal Town.

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The white wavy lines on blue background are signs for The Wild Atlantic Way - if you are unsure where to go just follow them as they are good indicators for scenic drives. The (N) and (S), fairly obviously, indicate the direction the route goes.

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Some random photos of Donegal

I must admit that I found that I more preferred the scenery of Ireland the further North we went. I think it because there is more of a feeling of open space there.

Scattered houses km from anywhere else, about 20 mins. down this little road .

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Portnoo - Narin Strand - Being from W.A with easy access to miles of white sandy beaches I tend to get a bit "superior" about the beaches in the UK & Eire. But, there is not much wrong with this one.

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More white cottages among the green hills

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Last few of Donegal around Glenties

Glengesh Pass

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A headland with another Napoleonic War lookout tower.

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Another isolated house in a pretty spot. We didn't see another car in the 30 minutes we were on this road so traffic would not be problem.

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We now headed off to a city in another country - Derry. (As far as I can tell only die hard Unionists still call it Londonderry)

An isolated church in a dramatic setting.

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The hostess at the B7 B suggested that rather than travelling the direct route to Derry we go a bit further north before turning east and travelling past Dunlewy Lough and then travelling on through Glenveagh National Park . It was good advice.

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On the top of the pass it was a bit like a high plains grassland.

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Derry - to quote - "Derry is the only remaining completely intact walled city in Ireland and one of the finest examples of a walled city in Europe. The walls constitute the largest monument in State care in Northern Ireland and, as the last walled city to be built in Europe, stands as the most complete and spectacular" However of course for most of the last 50 years violence is what I associated with Derry.

Looking across the Peace Bridge into the Old City - as you can see the weather situation was back to normal. The bridge was opened in 2011.

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I felt safer than I thought I would in town. Mostly you wouldn't know about the years of violence, except for seeing "British" police carrying guns.

We took an hour guided walk around the City Walls. The guide was very good and provided good information about the history of Derry up until the present times.

This Unionist enclave under the city walls. It was the only part of Derry we saw that was still fenced off.

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The Bogside area still had evidence of the "Troubles".

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This probably the best that the Bogside has looked in 100 years. But we both agreed that it still looked like a depressing place to live.

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The walls are very well preserved with lots of original cannons.

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Buildings on both sides are built right up to the walls.

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Looking past the Guildhall to the Peace Bridge we parked on the other side of the bridge near the old Army Barracks pictured in the distance. Once again local knowledge helped. The b & B host told us where to get free parking. It was about a 20 minute walk.

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Last of Derry

Inside the walls there were some very nice buildings.

Georgian, if I am not mistaken.

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The Apprentice Boys Memorial Hall

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Just outside the walls is the Guildhall

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St Columbs Cathedral dating from 1633


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Bishops Gate

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We now headed towards Belfast via the Giants Causeway.

Once again, the Irish weather gods were having more fun at our expense - cloudy, 12 C and about a 30/40 km wind straight off the ocean. It was crowded and after the splendid isolation in Donegal it was a bit of a shock to be falling over bus tour crowds again. ( And yes, I do see the irony of a tourist complaining about other tourists being where he wants to go - but for the previous 10 days or so, including Derry we had gotten used to uncrowded places.)

There is no charge to see the actual causeway but there is nowhere to park except in the National Trust's car park. You then pay £10. 50 per adult and get access to the rather grandiose Visitors Centre and a Audio Guide - which has a pretty twee commentary unless you turn to the purely geological explanations. If there was to be a next time, I would pay for one person and then share the audio guide and swap the ticket to use the toilets. You cannot avoid the parking fee unless you get transport in from elsewhere or stay in a nearby B & B.

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These people were not overdressed for the weather.

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The Pipes of Finn - made up of the same type of basalt columns as the causeway.

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On to Belfast

This day made me realise that i had made a mistake in not allocating more time for the very north of Ireland. I think that the violence of most of the last 50 years has tainted my view of it. There are a number of very nice coastal towns, deep forests and lovely seaside drives. If I had my time again I would have allowed a couple of days around here.

Looking towards the town of Portrush. As you can see, the weather is still balmy. But, to give the locals credit, there was a group of high school aged kids getting surfing lessons on the lawn behind were we took this photo. I do not know if they went into the water, but they had wet-suits on.

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Coastal scenery - looking back towards Portrush

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The ruins of Dunluce Castle

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The Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge. The wind was so strong that it was closed. Not that this little black duck would set foot on it anyway.

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Last few to Belfast. The roads in Northern Island, that we traveled, were much better than those in Eire.

Ballintoy Harbour

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More ruins

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The harbour at Glenarm in Antrim

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This road ran right alongside the Irish Sea for about 50 km in County Antrim. I would really have liked to have the time to stop and have a look along here.

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Belfast - another place I would have liked more time.

Our B & B was in a nice suburban area and very nice.

Our car parked inside the gate, in a very green suburb.

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The very nice breakfast room. Most of the houses in this area were built in the 1890's - and had enough room to keep a horse in the backyard.

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Wee caught a bus into town - very cheap all day ticket.

The first thing we saw when we got off the bus in the CBD made me realise that I would like Belfast.

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Belfast City Hall

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Lots of grand Victorian/Edwardian buildings around town.

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More of Belfast before we get to the Titanic Exhibit.

Traditional Pub with a restored interior

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Presbyterian Assembly Building

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More grand buildings

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Grand Opera House

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