Sweden and Tanzania 23/24

[ShelleyB]

After our two days in the lesser known Tarangire our next destination was the exceptionally well known Serengeti National Park. On the way we had arranged a stop at the Olduvai Gorge Museum. Olduvai Gorge is an active archaelogical site, famous as the location of the discovery of many early hominims (modern humans and closely related extinct species). The gorge is part of the greater Rift Valley, a hot spot of human evolution, including modern humans. In a very real sense, we all came from here. When we last visited 26 years ago the museum consisted of one small room with a window out on the gorge. It’s much bigger now, with multiple exhibits and conference space, but the original small room still exists and has been incorporated into the new space. Our safari organisers had arranged a personalised tour with a very knowlegdeable musuem staff member, and we took lunch in a private room. It was awesome. As amazing as the musuem is there were only a few people visiting. As it is located 6 km off the main road to Serengeti, I think many bypass it in their understandable rush to get to Serengeti. We certainly had to ask specifically to have it included on our tour.






After lunch we resumed our drive to the Serengeti, arriving in the late afternoon.


Of course there were lions demonstrating their usual over-sized domestic cat behaviour.



And a red letter moment with our first glimpse of hyena. They would become the favourite animal of ShelleyB-son. He liked them for themselves, but also I think felt a bit sad on their behalf when our guide shared that they were one of the “Ugly 5” - similar to the “Big 5” but of course with different inclusion criteria. We’ll meet more the ugly 5 later in our tour.



Our accommodation for the next few days was the Embalakai tented camp in central Serengeti. Sadly I don’t seem to have any photos as I was likely too busy enjoying the bar.

 

[Seat0B]

Your photos are spectacular!

 

[ShelleyB]

Your photos are spectacular!

Thanks. Next installment coming up momentarily which I think has some pretty cool photos .

 

[ShelleyB]

Our next day was a full day in the Serengeti, long enough to head a little away from the high traffic areas, although our first stop was the visitors centre, built around a kopje (rock formation), with an interesting walk and some sculptures.



Then it was off for a long drive, full of the usual antelope and zebra, and a reported sighting of a leopard (although we failed to find it). But not too long after we hit the jackpot and sighted our first cheetah of the trip. There were a pair of cheetah, likely brothers, who were initially trying to get a nap in. But given the number of vehicles they decided that was a bust. There were a herd of impala not far away, but the land was fairly flat and the cheetah couldn’t get a great view. So why not make use of other handy objects?



Probably not for the first time, both cheetah used the safari vehicles to get a better view, although ultimately decided against attempting to catch any impala. And although there were plenty of easily available tourists in the vehicles we obviously weren’t to their taste.










After heading back towards our accommodation we finished the day with a visit to the hippo pools.

 

[Kelstarama]

Your cheetah photos are amazing!
When I was at the visitor's centre last year we couldn't do the walk as there was a lioness with cubs in the rocks

 

[ShelleyB]

Your cheetah photos are amazing!
When I was at the visitor's centre last year we couldn't do the walk as there was a lioness with cubs in the rocks

 

[ShelleyB]

That’s a shame, as I imagine you could not actually see the lion cubs?

 

[Kelstarama]

That’s a shame, as I imagine you could not actually see the lion cubs?

We could see the mum but needed binoculars to see the cubs. We were lucky to see loads of lions during that trip though. The visitor centre is definitely worth a visit - I always recommend it!

 

[ShelleyB]

Today we were heading out of central Serengeti to the Ndutu/southern Serengeti region. Before leaving we spent a little more time in the central region, and we were lucky to again be the first to spot a lion pride, which gave us a little more quiet time with the pride. This pride had a number of cute and playful cubs, and dad was there too.






On our way out of the park we also saw our first elephants since Tarangire, plus some hippos and Hartebeest.





Late in the day, on our way in to Ndutu, we were also lucky enough to spot a jackal.

 

[ShelleyB]

A full day today in the Ndutu/southern Serengeti region. And what a day it was. It started with a sighting of a solo cheetah on the hunt a mere few hundred metres from our camp. We waited patiently for some time but the cheetah, who was observing a herd of impala, did not seem ready to make a move, so we moved on too. Reports later indicated the cheetah was successful in its hunt, but not for many hours after we left. Cheetah are clearly more patient than humans.


We then moved on and after observing more girrafe, wildebeest and (sleeping) lions, we received reports of a coalition of 3 cheetah appearing hunting migrating wildebeest and zebra. Again, after observing for some time, the cheetah decided nothing suited their risk-reward calculation so moved on.







Then much to the delight of Mr.10 we spotted a big hyena clan not far from the cheetah, which included some little cubs.







We then finished the day back at camp observing wildlife near our tents.

 

[kpc]

I must say the cheetah (just ahead of the leopard) was my favourite animal to see at Serengeti last November

 

[ShelleyB]

I must say the cheetah (just ahead of the leopard) was my favourite animal to see at Serengeti last November

We too really loved the cheetah. It’s probably the level of action and sometimes interaction you get. And they are super pretty too sometimes, to be frank, the lions can look a mangy.

 

[ShelleyB]

After a long delay due to that darn work thing, have some time to finally finish this TR.

So after out final day in Ndutu, we had an early start to the day to make it to Ngorongoro crater. As mentioned upthread when we passed through on the way to the Serengeti, Ngorongoro is a massive volcanic caldera. It's a steepish drive to crater floor, but once there it's excellent for wildlife viewing. It's also an excellent place to spot black rhinos, with a population of around 30. There's also an excellent picnic spot near one of the lakes, where instead of seagulls, you have to watch out for Marabou stork.

At the end of the day we were staying at the amazing Escarpement Luxury Lodge, high up overlooking Lake Manyara.

 

[ShelleyB]

The next day was, sadly, our final day in Tanzania. Our flight was scheduled to depart Kilimanjaro Airport at 2130 so we were able to get in almost a full day in Lake Manyara before we needed to head back to the airport. We had arranged to have a guided walking safari, which was enjoyable if slightly tense. The guide was friendly and knowledgeable and also armed. He taught us the various tracks to look out for, and pointed out that there was a buffalo nearby (thus the tension). It really was an awesome experience which we highly recommend.

But that's pretty much a wrap on the holiday. We departed after a late lunch and were transferred to the airport where we saird our goodbyes to Gilbert and Lion King Tours. I'll wrap up the trip home in a separate post.

 

[ShelleyB]

And so we come to the long journey home. Our original plan was to fly home from Dar es Salaam using points with Emirates. We had J class seats booked from Dar to Singapore 10 months in advance but as the departure date approached no points seats (not even one!) became available. We were therefore resigned to purchasing revenue flights from Singapore to Melbourne but even these were probably going to cost around $2000-$2500 per seat given the time of year. Then I noticed that Qatar were having a sale, and we could get from JNB to MEL via DOH, with Q-suites from DOH to MEL for around $1700 AUD each. So we duly booked these, and a flight from DAR to JNB and an overnight stay in JNB for the start of the trip home. So an extra flight than we had planned but ultimately much cheaper than the DAR-SIN (points)-MEL (revenue) option would have cost given that Emirates taxes are not cheap. And it was a real bonus to be able to able to have our first trip in Q-suites for such a bargain basement price.

So our journey home commenced with a Precision Air flight from JRO-DAR. Check in was right on time if a bit chaotic. As seems to be common with international tourists also making use of domestic flights in Tanzania I saw a few people caught out with overweight luggage. Security was the usual struggle of no clarity of what devices need to be removed and what needs to stay in. Mostly in thankfully. Once through we made straight for the coffee shop/bar area where we camped with wine, beer and hot snacks. The flight was perfectly acceptable and on time.

 

[ShelleyB]

Flighted landed on time in DAR where we transferred to the International terminal for our flight to JNB. Checkin opened on time although there was some confusion regarding our bags. Despite being very much underweight (the heaviest was 15kg), the check in staff would not accept them on the belt and told us to take them to the overweight belt. So off we took them to 3 belts way, which was some sort of system where you put them on a belt and press the button yourself. Odd, and it only seemed to be us needing to do so. Anyway, off the bags went and off we went to the lounge. Have a membership of the Dragonpass lounge network with the credit card and had a few lounge entries included. The Dragonpass lounge in DAR was the Twiga lounge which was very very quiet. Unsurprising considering it was almost midnight. In any case it was a good place to camp for a few hours before our next flight.

 

[kpc]

We also used the Twiga lounge at Dar ahead of our QR J award Dar-Doh-Adl flights last Nov. It was quite a nice lounge and there was a cook to order breakfast menu.

 

[ShelleyB]

Our flight to JNB was with Airlink, an airline based in South Africa. We'd only booked in Y and it was very no frills indeed. I don't recall getting any food. It was only short haul but still, a little something would not have gone astray. We landed early in the morning and I had arranged an early check in at our hotel, which was the Southern Sun at the airport.

Our flight from JNB to DOH was scheduled for 1340 the next day. We had checked in online but it did not seem to make anything faster at the airport. The people ahead of us in the queue took forever as they seemed to have an endless supply of bags to check. Once we were actually at the head of the queue processing was very quick as was security. Qatar are currently using the Shongololo lounge which was busy and nothing fancy.

 

[ShelleyB]

Our flight from JNB to DOH was not Q-suites but still the more than acceptable herringbone style. ShelleyB-son took the window seat and enjoyed his solo-time. Food was excellent as was the service. Our flight times did not allow a stop in the lounge in DOH, but to be honest we were not really disappointed as we were keen for our final flight home. The gate was a mess before boarding with people ignoring the group seating and hoping to board before being called. Ultimately however we were on board for our first Q-suite experience. Champagne was served as the PDB while orders were taken for meals and the remainer of the passengers boarded. I can't actually what we ate and drank but all of it was great and the service excellent. We all slept very well. I really enjoyed being bale to close the door to the compartment and felt it really made a difference to how well we slept.

I did not take lots of pictures sadly, but I do have one of ShelleyB-son asleep in his half of the double compartment.

 

[ShelleyB]

And so that was that. 6 amazing weeks that mostly went as planned. Not once did we have to run for a flight, although we did have to run for the ferry in Zanzibar. Of the long haul J class flights we had, I would Qatar's Q-suites slightly ahead of Emirates, even though Emirates has the Skybar. The older style BA J class was not in the same class at all. The side trip to JNB to pick up cheap Qatar flights was totally worth the trouble, with the bonus that I was able to use the points from the cancelled Emirates to Singapore towards rewards flights for us all to Japan with CI in September this year.

Although we were very sad to give up Jordan and Egypt I am very glad we did. Although I am sure we would have been safe the heightened security, particularly in Egypt, would not have been the family holiday feel we were looking for. And Sweden turned out to be an excellent substitute which ShelleyB-son really enjoyed. Zanzibar was great, and fixes a regret that we did not make it there last time we were in East Africa, but I would not feel the need to include it on future itineraries. Tanzania was fantastic but I was glad that other than the safari we travelled independently, as I think we had a better experience connecting with locals.

Thanks for following along.