Sweden and Tanzania 23/24

ShelleyB

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Joined
Nov 12, 2022
Posts
102
I have decided to have a crack at a TR of our upcoming journey to Sweden and Tanzania for this forum. We [me, Mr ShelleyB and ShelleyB-son (10)] are T-9 days away from setting off on the first leg of a 42 day journey that takes in Sweden and Tanzania. Why such an odd combination? It wasn't always meant to be this way. Our original journey was booked as follows as a mixture of Qantas classic rewards and revenue fares:

MEL-DXB-AMM Emirates J (CR) (STOP)
AQB-AMM-CAI Royal Jordanian Y (CR) (STOP)
CAI-DAR Egypt Air Y (Paid) (Transit)
DAR-ZNZ Flightlink Y (Paid) (STOP)
DAR-JRO Precision Air Y (Paid) (STOP)
JRO-DAR Precision Air Y (Paid) (Transit)
DAR-JNB Airlink Y (Paid) (Transit)
JNB-DOH-MEL Qatar J (Paid) (END)

But as you can see the first destinations we anticipated have become a little problematic in the last few months. After some discussion and with great regret we decided to skip Jordan and Egypt. Even though neither are directly involved, even aside from the possibility of local trouble, there is still the possibility of stray missiles and Egypt is likely to increase internal security at tourist destinations, which while it does increase safety it also gives it an inevitable military operation feel. Ultimately not quite the vibe we are looking for on our holidays.

So after a lot of internal discussion, checking of possibilities and preparation and discard of plans, we have settled on Sweden. One of the main limiting factors was the MEL-DXB-AMM were married segments, so we either had to discard them all and pay for alternatives (as 3 J class CR flights to Europe were clearly a pipe dream at this late stage), or keep the flights as transit only and add on paid flights from there. Ultimately we chose to keep them as transits with Sweden for a white Christmas as the ultimate destination. So now the flights look like this:

MEL-DXB-AMM Emirates J (CR) (Transit)
AMM-LHR-ARN British Airways J (Paid) (STOP)
ARN-KRN SAS Y+ (Paid) (STOP)
ARN-DOH-ZNZ Qatar Y (Paid) (STOP)
DAR-JRO Precision Air Y (Paid) (STOP)
JRO-DAR Precision Air Y (Paid) (Transit)
DAR-JNB Airlink Y (Paid) (Transit)
JNB-DOH-MEL Qatar J (Paid) (END)

So now the first leg is quite long as there's a few long transits - 9 hours in Dubai on the first leg, plus almost as long in Amman. The first was always in the itinerary (CR beggars can't be choosers) but the second a result of the limited options out of Amman on the same day we arrive. And sadly AMM will also very likely require collecting the bags (AFTER immigration) to check them in directly with BA as I think we'll have Buckley's chance of getting them checked all the way through from MEL-ARN with 2 separate PNRs on 2 different airlines, one of which is BA.

Despite the change in plans and the less than ideal route to Stockholm, we remain very excited for our journey. And it all commences with a bang with the EK A380 service to Dubai complete with Skybar, and finishes with Q-suites from DOH to MEL. Both of these experiences will be the first time for all the SB family.

I look forward to sharing updates as we go along. Hopefully not too many dramas as the first flight approaches.
 
Following with interest. We just came back after spending 13 nights in Tanzania....Arusha,, Karatu, Serengeti, Zanzibar and Dar.

Why didnt you fly Dar-Doh-Mel on Qr skipping the transit stop in Jnb?
 
Following with interest. We just came back after spending 13 nights in Tanzania....Arusha,, Karatu, Serengeti, Zanzibar and Dar.
We'll be doing Zanzibar, Moshi, Lake Chala, Arusha plus out to Tarangire, Serengeti, Ngorongoro, Lake Manyara. Mr SB and I have visited Tanzania before but many moons ago as backpackers with quite a different budget range.
 
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Following with interest. We just came back after spending 13 nights in Tanzania....Arusha,, Karatu, Serengeti, Zanzibar and Dar.

Why didnt you fly Dar-Doh-Mel on Qr skipping the transit stop in Jnb?
Initially we had CR seats on EK from DAR as far as SIN but could not find a J class fare home for less than about $3000 per traveller. Then some special fare appeared on Qatar JNB to MEL for around $2500 per traveller. Considering QR flights from DAR are around $5000 or more per person we couldn’t pass up the chance to fly QR suites home for bargain basement prices even accounting for the extra flight to JNB. So we cancelled the EK reward flights (and a nice return of points and taxes as a bonus) and booked QR. Very excited to try QR suites.
 
Thus was our itinerary, all on points:

We paid for Y flights frol Kgl to Jro via Dar on RwandAir, from Seu to Znz on Auric Air and the ferry from Stone Town to Dar.

We loved the Q suites from Doh to Adl. Hope you have time to enjoy the Al Mourjan Business -Garden lounge in Doha...the made to order Sushi was to die for!

On a separate note we had 24 hours in Stockholm in September and did àn Old Town walking tour, visited the Abba and Nobel Prize museums. We also came across Greta Thunberg ptotesting at Parliament!
 
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We spent 2 nights in Nungwi and 3 nights in Stone Town, then took the ferry to Dar.
We have a little longer. We have 3 nights in Stone Town, then 5 nights in Matemwe. SB-son does not know it yet (as it's a Christmas present) but we've booked him a discovery dive in Matemwe. Then we are taking the ferry to DAR before flying onwards to JRO.
 
Then we are taking the ferry to DAR before flying onwards to JRO.
Make your life easier and buy your ferry tickets online below. Don't buy the cheapest as you will be sitting in the open air with the high humidity! I think we bought the next level up called business VIP (enclosed air conditioned area ...you will thank me!). They don't automatically send you the boarding passes after you book, and I contacted them via Whatsapp with my booking number and they send the BPs to me...saves you going to the office which is some distance away from the actual ferry terminal!

 
Make your life easier and buy your ferry tickets online below. Don't buy the cheapest as you will be sitting in the open air with the high humidity! I think we bought the next level up called business VIP (enclosed air conditioned area ...you will thank me!). They don't automatically send you the boarding passes after you book, and I contacted them via Whatsapp with my booking number and they send the BPs to me...saves you going to the office which is some distance away from the actual ferry terminal!

Thanks - we already did that. Bought the VIP in case weather is cough. Good tip about the boarding passes though, I'll follow up.
 
We are now at T-5 days and despite my hopes there would be no dramas, the first drama has already arisen. Woke this morning to a notification that the DXB-AMM segment of the first flight, which we booked with Qantas points (CR), has changed. Instead of flying at 10.40pm on the Monday we were flying at 2.10pm the next day. This would see us miss our connecting BA flights to Stockholm via London. I was on the phone for some time this morning with a very helpful and knowledgeable call centre person (South Africa I think from the accent) but no useful alternatives were available. Although I had understood the MEL-DXB-AMM flights were married segments, upon enquiring with the agent whether cancelling only the DXB-AMM was possible she was able to do that for me. I had already checked online and found that there were non-EK options which would get us to Amman on time for the BA flights. However, it then occurred to me I had the opportunity to find a better way to Stockholm than the one we had reluctantly taken so as not to lose the award flight we already booked Melbourne to Amman. So after some consideration we have booked Finnair DXB-HEL-ARN to replace what would have been DXB-AMM-LHR-ARN. Revenue fares rather than points but cuts about 12 hours off the journey and provides lie-flat beds almost all the way.

I first hoped to change the BA flights to depart DXB rather than AMM, and they could do it but only for such a stupid price as to effectively be the same as purchasing new tickets. Cheaper to cancel. Points seats were available for DXB-LHR-ARN using Qantas points and flying BA, but sadly I only had enough points for 2 of the 3 seats we needed and buying a revenue fare with BA for the 3rd seat plus including the taxes for the 2 points seats, was only moderately cheaper than paying for 3 seats with Finnair. Crazy.

Anyway, after all that drama I hope we can now get to Stockholm without any further incidents. The Finnair flight DXB-HEL is on the A330-300 which I believe has the new no-recline lie-flat business seats? I look forward to testing them out. Sadly though I think the Finnair lounge in Dubai is the Marhaba lounge, which I gather is a bit ordinary and not much of substitute for the Emirates lounge which we now don't have.
 
With an early start required for the 0615 EK409 MEL-DXB, we stayed the night at the Holiday Inn at Tullamarine. No photos, but pretty much the same as any other city Holiday Inn. Has what you need but no more or less. Food was fine, and kids eat free.

Up early and at the terminal by 3am, check in open. The economy line was already starting to fill up but business was short and we were through in 5 mins. Headed directly to security only to find they had not opened yet. We hung around and it finally opened about 3.20. At that hour and as one of the first in line, security and passport control were a breeze and we were in the Emirates lounge by just after 3.30. The lounge of course was very quiet, and even by closer to boarding time was never very busy. The food was extensive and really quite nice. Not that I felt like Champagne but both Veuve and Moet were on offer, and plenty were partaking.

Flight boarded on time via zones and seemed quite efficient. PDB was offered and this time I did feel like some bubbles. The Moet only on offer, but was very nice. The plane pushed back right on time, and no waiting in line for take off. Breakfast was served very soon after reaching cruising height, then cabin dimmed to allow for sleeping. Most people took advantage, me included. I found the lie flat bed very comfortable, even for a side sleeper lie me, and the footwell roomy.The disclaimer here is I am not very tall (165cm), so taller people may have a different experience.

One experience we were all looking forward to on this flight was the Sky Bar and it did not disappoint. Such a great space to relax, have a chat as a family or grab a snack. ShellyB-son really enjoyed the Christmas themed snacks and some mocktails.

Overall the whole experience was excellent. Service was attentive and friendly, the seats very comfortable and the sky bar a real treat.

We landed just a few minutes later than scheduled. As we have a long transit in Dubai we passed in immigration and checked in to yet another airport hotel before a whirlwind visit downtown. More details in the next post, but in the meantime here’s some photos of the Emirates lounge and the flight.

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but business was short and we were through in 5 mins. Headed directly to security only to find they had not opened yet. We hung around and it finally opened about 3.20.
We made this exact mistake on the MEL-DXB flight last year when going to visit Seat Son - although I think we had to wait a bit longer than that to get through. I won't make that mistake again! It was quite busy when we were there and it was a total bun fight to get through security and immigration.
 
It was our first time actually doing something other than transit through Dubai, and as we only had a short time we only did the standard tourist things of the Burj Khalifa, Dubai Mall and the Dubai Fountain. The Burj is certainly an impressive building that dominates the skyline. The mall was mostly full of standard shops, although the aquarium makes it memorable. The fountain display set to music was absolutely packed with onlookers but was fun nonetheless.

While in Dubai we recived an email from BA that our onward flight to LHR (a transit stop on our way to Stockholm) [different again from the outline a few posts back but probably too boring to go into here] would be delayed by a few hours. As we had a room booked at the Holiday Inn Express at the airport this was not a big deal as it just meant we could nap a bit before heading to the airport. I don’t have any photos of the Holiday Inn but it was very underwhelming. Shower barely passable, room quite small. I would also add that despite being 300m as the crow flies from DXB T3 you can’t easily walk due to the roads and trainline, so the only sensible way to get there is the free hotel shuttle which is about 5 mins walk to the pick up point. Nonetheless the room did the job.

We checked in at DXB for our flight at around 1.00am. BA106 was originally scheduled to depart at 2.15am, but was delayed to a 4.30am departure but ultimately a bit later again.

Check in was easy as was immigration and security. Sadly BA have limited access to their own lounge to first as well as some premium executive club members. Business class flyers are directed to the Marhaba lounge, with a separate section set aside. The lounge was a bit disappointing, with a very limited food selection, although it was at least away from the crazinesss of the main lounge, which was packed.

Boarding was late but efficient. Another A380 but nowhere near as nice as the Emirates set up. BA have first class on the lower deck and business split accross the upper and lower decks. We had 3 seats on the upper deck, where seats are arranged in a staggered 2-3-2 layout such that the window of the 2-pair and the middle of the 3 seat face backwards. The seats are lie flat, with feet supported by a wall-mounted ottoman which you put down when you want to sleep. This has the bizzare effect of “trapping” the rear facing passengers who would need to step over another person, probably a stranger, to get out (see photo). Not well designed and I would not recommend it. Worked ok for us as my son in the middle seat did not need to get up overnight, but you can’t plan for whether you may or may not need the bathroom or whatever. On the other hand, while hard product was very ordinary, service was excellent and the food not bad.

In the end we arrived at LHR just over 3 hours behind schedule (entitling us I believe to compensation - form already submitted) requiring a quick march to the next flight and no time for the BA lounge. Security at T5 was also very slow. They were trialling a new system (for them) of leaving all items in your bag, but it seemed to result in every 2nd bag being directed for a full check, including Mr ShellyB. Ulitimately made the connecting flight, BA776 to ARN with 5 minutes to spare before boarding commenced. The flight was uneventful, and landed a few minutes early. After immigration and collecting bags took the very efficient Arlanda express to the city. Hotel check in was easy, and room is excellent (photos in the next post).

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We are in Stockholm for 7 days, staying at Frey’s Hotel Lilla Radmannen. It’s about a 15 minute, easy walk from the city centre, and was attractive to us as it has genuine triple rooms, which is always a challenge with family travel, as well as being very reasonably priced with breakfast included. The latter is always important to us as ShellyB-son can be a bit of a challenge to feed sometimes as he can be a bit fussy, so having a good breakfast where he can fill up makes the rest of the day a bit easier. Here’s some photos of the room (excuse the mess, forgot to take photos on arrival).

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After checking in we headed straight back out again to enjoy the opportunity to walk around and see a bit of the city. We wandered somewhat aimlessly, ending up in the old town of Gamla Stan where we visited a Christmas Market (nice, but not outstanding), before an early dinner of pizza. Pizza was great, and wine lovely if super-expensive (as is normal in Sweden with high alcohol taxes).

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Mr ShellyB was feeling a bit under the weather from all the travelling so chose to spend the morning resting up. ShellyB son and I therefore headed out for a little self guided tour of the town, concentrating mainly in the Gamla Stan area. Before that though the first order of business was to sort out cards for public transport. We’d already decided that 7 day passes loaded onto the local smart cards were the way to go - for the 3 of us (2 adults, one child) this worked out about $160 AUD total for unlimited use of trains, buses, trams and ferries throughout Stockholm. Cheaper than my home city of Melbourne.

Stockholm is a very pretty city and we enjoyed the walk. After lunch walking back to the hotel we encountered our first snow of the trip.



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In the evening we headed off for our first planned cultural activity - ice hockey. This also resulted in the first (but no doubt not the last) error worthy of the “travel mistakes” thread, but more on that below.

The local team, Djugarden IF was playing at home in the Hovet Stadium. So off we headed on the metro, arriving in plenty of time, and joined the queue for entry. But oh no…since 1st November at various events in Sweden no bags (of any size) are allowed. This includes handbags, and naturally I had mine with me, because what else do you keep things in? And no, there was nowhere to store a bag. Anyway, a choice was before me. It was too late to get to hotel and back to dump bag and still make the hockey start (what is that called anyway? the puck-off?). So after some consideration (and some choice words…) took all items out of my beloved handbag which then went in the bin. And so in we went. We clearly weren’t the only tourists caught out, there were multiple groups with at least one bag-holder undertaking frantic discussion.

The stadium was not full (just over 5000 peope) but was in good voice, as the away support appeared to consist of about 20 people. Although we know nothing at all about ice hockey, the game was fast and fun and of course included the occasional fight. Not to mention even the legal contact was quite brutal. Djurgarden never really looked threatened and finished up with a 5-1 win. The singing during the game was based on well known tunes, but I have a strong suspicion lyrics have been altered to suit the event. When we purchasing our tickets online (which was easy enough with the help of google translate) we were amused to see a class of tickets known as “activ sittsplats”, where you still get your own seat but are expected to stand up and sing the songs. At one point even I recognised they were singing at us, the “sittplats” (seats) to stand up and sing. So plenty of fun, and well worth the effort.

During the game it occurred to me that perhaps I might even be able to retrieve my handbag. The bin was fairly empty when I dumped my bag in it. So after the game there was the no doubt amusing/confusing sight of 2 adults and a child looking in a bin with the help of iPhone torches, then taking photos IN the bin, identifying that my bag could indeed be seen, then miraculously retrieving said bag. Not even too dirty. Of course, if I had thought more clearly at the time, I would have gone further away and found somewhere inconspicuous to hide the bag but it all worked out in the end.

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Stockholm is a city made of many islands (14) joined by bridges, but is also part of a much larger archipelago, with 30000 a commonly stated number of islands in the region. It was to one of these islands, Vaxholm, that we travelled to on the number 83 ferry for a day out. The ferry journey was very pleasant, affording great views of the city and then of small islands along the way. Vaxholm is a popular day out for tourists, and probably half the passengers disembarked at the Vaxholm wharf. Outside the heat of central Stockholm, more snow was on the ground, although there was also plenty of ice making walking a little hazardous in places. Nonetheless, after a pleasant lunch we undertook a 5km marked route around the town. More snow fell while on the walk, an event ShelleyB-son is yet to be bored of, given he has only once previously encountered snow.

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