Some island cruising - The Canaries and Sicily, then Milan

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In the afternoon, I took an extended walk around Trapani.

The history of Trapani mirrors that of much of Sicily - the indigenous peoples (Elmyians, here); Greeks; Romans; Ottomans; Normans; Venetians, Aragonese (Spanish); Barbary states; Bourbons; Garibaldi/Italian.

G'won - read it all here.

Some of the coastal fortifications passed at the end of the excursion.



I took along the north-western coastal wall. Unfortunately I completely missed the ancient salt works to the south.









Garibaldi - statues of him everywhere. Father of the unified Kingdom of Italy (1861).

 

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No history lecture today - just views around Trapani







Triton fountain, 1890



The 1688 Church of the Holy Souls in Purgatory.

 

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Later in the afternoon, a tasting and explanation of Sicilian wines led by the French sommelier lady and the Sicilian wine 'academic' Davide Puca. Some good notes to go with them.









More Malvasia - like the Canaries.







And then, a tasting of cheese as supplied by Ponant's cheese and butter suppliers, Maison Bordier

Bordier - Artisan Butter Maker and Cheese Ripener

Artisan Butter Maker and Cheese Ripener since 1985, we cultivate in our workshops a taste for the finest raw materials, inspired by the best that nature offers us.

www.maisonbordier.com

And then dinner!!

 

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Next morning saw us dock at Palermo - one of the non-volcanic highlights for me. Rain had been forecast - over the past few days there had been a Sirocco - same as the Calima we had in the Canaries - fine sand from the Sahara had been blowing across Sicily. This traditionally brings rain a few days later and this clears the air (and deposits mud on everyone's cars).

So it was a surprise when we docked that both the skies and atmosphere were clear.







A couple of excursion choices, mine was Palermo and Monreale, the latter I knew nothing of.

The guide was one of the better ones of the tour. A local, but clear English and he told us interesting things and, importantly, shut up when there didn't need to be anything said. Some of them just feel the need to talk constantly.

So we hit the road in Palermo, early, but the traffic was still chaotic.







Our destination was the Palazzo dei Normanni 'Palace of the Normans', the oldest royal residence in Europe and the Palatine Capel, which we would go into.



First through the Porta Nuova, built to celebrate Charles V's conquest of Tunis in 1535 and his visit to the capital of the Kingdom of Sicily. The first version was completed in the 1580s. The gate was burned down in 1667 and the current version completed in 1669.

The figures represent the Moors defeated by Charles V.













On a building nearby.

 

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Onwards to the Norman Palace (UNESCO World Heritage), and learning about the wonderfully named King Roger(s) and William 1 (The Mean). Brings together the Muslim period from the mid 800s where Palermo became the capital (they succeeded the Byzantines), the Norman period, after Norman conquest in mid 1000s, the Spanish etc. The front is a bit plain





Above the door is the historical coat of arms, crowned eagle of the Aragonese (Spanish) era.





Security entry, then through some of the Aragonese (Spanish) era building, late 1600s.





Wikipedia

Norman Palace, was built on the highest point of the city, above a Punic structure discovered in 1984 beneath the Duke of Montalto Halls. During Arab rule, the earliest nucleus of the building arose between the rivers Kemonia and Papireto, designed with defensive features typical of fortresses. This building was also used during the Roman Byzantine era.

Following the Norman conquest in 1072, the Normans built a new building consisting of a castle, with the function of royal residence and administrative hub. In 1130, after the coronation of Roger II of Altavilla—the first Norman king of Sicily—the Palatine Chapel was constructed, becoming a symbol of norman cultural and christian religious.

The palace's core was marked by four towers and included facilities such as workshops and textile laboratories (nobiles officinae or tiraz). It served as the seat of successive Norman courts, including those of Roger II, William I (known as "the Mean"), and William II ("the Good"), who oversaw a remarkable confluence of diverse cultures.

Frederick II, grandson of Roger II and son of Henry VI of Hohenstaufen and Constance of Altavilla, continued this legacy. He played a pivotal role in its administration and in fostering cultural life, notably supporting the Sicilian School of poetry.

After a period of decline during the Angevin and Aragonese rule, the palace was revitalized under the Spanish viceroys in the late 16th century. This phase saw the addition of new architectural elements with both representative and military functions, including the Fountain Courtyard (1584) and the Maqueda Courtyard (1600).

During the Bourbon period, the palace saw further development, particularly in the decoration of the Hercules Hall. Today, the Royal Palace serves as the seat of the Sicilian Regional Assembly.

 

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Then the Palatine Chapel.

The Palatine Chapel is the royal chapel of the Norman Palace in Palermo, Sicily. This building is a mixture of Byzantine, Norman and Fatimidarchitectural styles, showing the tricultural state of Sicily during the 12th century after Roger I and Robert Guiscard conquered the island.

Also referred to as a Palace church or Palace chapel, it was commissioned by Roger II of Sicily in 1132 to be built upon an older chapel (now the crypt) constructed around 1080. It took eight years to build, receiving a royal charter the same year, with the mosaics being only partially finished by 1143. The sanctuary, dedicated to Saint Peter, is reminiscent of a domed basilica.

The whole chapel is a mix of Norman, Byzantine and Arabic styles.. Mosaics from the 12th century - muqarnas form the ceiling









The really crazy thing was the roof - fully muqarnas style or 3D honeycombed/stalactite typical of Muslim architecture - but not done under Muslim influence. Simply imported by Roger II's craftsmen to adorn the Chapel. However, being wood they are the earliest representation of muqarnas - all previous ones being stone/plaster.







Ceiling-shot of one of the aisles.



Amazing. Afterwards there was an obligatory toilet stop. I bought a book on the place and then I wandered outside. Our local guide was dismissive (of the Spanish connection) of the statue of Philip IV of Habsburg, King of Spain and Sicily at the time who was so powerful that he ruled over possessions all over the known world. The huge sculpture is full of symbolism with the King surrounded by all his subjects who are paying him homage. The sculpture is appropriately located right across from the Royal Palace.

 

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Back on the coach and, eschewing all the other wonders of Palermo (like the Cathedral), we set off for Monreale, a small town about 7km and 300m up in the hills. Never heard of it.

Roads were congested, as usual (double parking on main roads is the norm)



But thinned out as we climbed out of the city and the roads narrowed as well.



Good choice Could tell it was something big when we passed dozens of coaches parked along side the narrow windy road up to where the bus dropped us off.

Some 120 steps from the drop-off point to the village level and a walk through the narrow streets



Until you came to a piazza and the Cathedral of Monreale. The asymmetric towers caused by an earthquake whch damaged the LH one, causing the entrance below, and the tower to be re-built.



Bits from Wikipedia

Monreale Cathedral is a Catholic church in Monreale, a municipality in the Metropolitan City of Palermo, Sicily. One of the greatest extant examples of Norman architecture, it was begun in 1174 by William II of Sicily and is dedicated to the Nativity of the Virgin Mary.

According to a legend, William II of Sicily fell asleep under a carob tree while hunting in the woods near Monreale. The Holy Virgin appeared to him in his dreams and suggested that he build a church where he lay. While clearing the land, a treasure trove of gold coins was found in the roots of the carob tree, which were later used to finance the construction of the structure. It is more likely that the church was part of a plan of large constructions in competition with the then bishop of Palermo, Walter Ophamil, who had ordered the large Cathedral of Palermo. The construction of Monreale, started in 1172, was approved by Pope Alexander III with a bull on 30 December 1174. Works, including an annexed abbey, were completed only in 1267 and the church consecrated at the presence of Pope Clement IV. In 1178 Pope Lucius III established the archdiocese of Monreale and the abbey church was elevated to the rank of cathedral. The archbishops obtained by the kings of Sicily a wide array of privileges and lands in the whole Italian peninsula.

In 1270 the heart of Saint Louis IX, King of France, brother of King Charles I of Naples, was buried here.

In 1547-1569 a portico was added to the northern side, designed by Giovanni Domenico Gagini and Fazio Gagini, in Renaissance style, covered by a cross vault and featuring eleven round arches supported by Corinthian columns. In 1559 most of the internal pavement was added.

The 16th century northern portico, where you enter the church.

 

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The scale and the beauty of the byzantine-style mosaics (6,500 m2 worth) is amazing.







The mosaics along the length of the nave, double rows, both sides, tell stories from the Bible.



Adam and Eve

 

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The flood and Noah's ark



















Ceiling shot

 

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Sarcophagi of William I (The Mean) in red porphory and William II (The Good - and founder of the church) of Sicily, to the right with inscriptions on it










William II offering Monreale cathedral to the Virgin Mary