Return to Europe (in style)

[RooFlyer]

I then cut across to Cochem, on the Moselle. Part of the genesis of this whole trip was that I saw a cruise on the Moselle that looked attractive, but it soon disappeared from offer; but by that time I wanted to see some of it. Unfortunately the day was still overcast, so didn't look the best.

The cut-across to Cochem again took me off the beaten track - but this time it was deliberate!



Cochem Castle. Yes, I know most people would take 3 to 7 days to do what I drove in a few hours, but that's me. I did spend a couple of days going from Mainz to Koblenz some time ago,







A few photo stops only going up the Moselle







Does anyone know why they plant the grapes up and down the slopes and not along the contours?





On the last stretch to Trier, I zoomed across the Hochmoselbrücke (High Moselle Bridge) without realising I was going onto it That's just poor research.

Its about 1.7km long and a maximum of 158m over the Moselle River, using 10 concrete pylons. The bridge cost about 175 million euros (cheap??) and was completed in 2019. This pic from Wikipedia:




When I was in France in 2018, I did go out of my way to see and drive over the Millau viaduct bridge : Twice around the world in 40 days

The different designs might somehow be related to the respective culture of Germany and France. There was no viewing area for the Moselle bridge that I noticed.

 

[RooFlyer]

Trier has some wonderful Roman structures, including an Amphitheatre which wasn't open while I was there. The most famous place is the Porta Nigra, the old Roman town gate, blackened by the centuries now.

Accor has a Mercure right over the road, so I booked that, also because it had easy parking. The hotel is 1960s or 70s and hasn't changed much, outside



... or inside. I booked a Porta-facing room and it was very '70s -







There is also a Casino on site. All in all I wouldn't reccomend it, except for the view from my room



Much more to see in the old town, though. Trier is thought to be Germany's oldest city. A town was formed by Celts in centuries BC and naturally occupied by the Romans "Augusta Treverorum". It was a capital of the Holy Roman Empire around 300AD.

Not far away is the Aula Palatina, or Constantine's Basilica, built around 300AD during the reign of Constantine the Great (think Constantinople). Its the largest ancient hall in existence and nowdays the meeting place of an evangelical Christian group.

Hard to believe its about 1,700 years old.

 

[RooFlyer]

There is a nice Old Town with lots of squares, cafes, bars etc.







But the must-see were the two churches, - Trier Dom (cathedral) and Liebfrauen Kirche, sitting side by side.

As I approached, there was an incredibly long and intense peel of the bells happening from the Dom (St Peter's Cathedral), and lots of clergy and it was closed to the public.

The Cathedral was built on the site of a Roman structure, in about 300AD, during the reign of Constantine the Great. As usual, it has been sacked and destroyed a few times; it was damaged badly in WW2. A piece of fabric, believed to be part of Jesus Christ's tunic is held as a relic. Luther strongly criticised the holding and veneration of relics. Its rarely exhibited publicly these days.

Cathedral on the left, Liebfrauen Kirche on the right.





Next door is the Liebfrauen Kirche (Church of Our Lady) , the oldest Gothic church in Germany. A previous church from Constantine's time was demolished in about 1200 (so after 900 years!!) and the current structure commenced about 1230AD. It was badly damaged in WW2 and reconstructed afterwards.

Model of the 2 churches, cathedral on the left.

 

[RooFlyer]

Layout of the 2 churches;



inside the Gothic church









The stained glass is all pretty modern



On the way back to the hotel, I said hello to Karl Marx. He was born in Trier in 1818 in a house that is now a museum. He lived in Trier until he went to University.

 

[MARTINE]

@RooFlyer - firstly my condolences and what a beautiful way to remember your brother. I am a late arrival but have really enjoyed reading this thread with my morning Sunday coffee. Great photos and informative commentary. Some places i have not travelled but plan to tx

 

[Blackadder]

In answer to the Grape question , Vines planted on slopes are less susceptible to frosts, and better drainage than those on flatter lands.

 

[craven morehead]

Playing catch up on this TR

 

[RooFlyer]

In answer to the Grape question , Vines planted on slopes are less susceptible to frosts, and better drainage than those on flatter lands.

Thanks, but I was wondering why, on the slopes, the rows and trellising go up and down the slopes, and not across them.

 

[RooFlyer]

The next day, it was back down south to Chambery.



For the first couple of hours the weather was shocking - rain and fog. Just as well it was a 'travel day'

The weather improved however. I stopped off at Chalone sur Saone for lunch as suggested by @esseeeayeenn but unfortunately it was late and I didn't do very well. Good stroll though.







A couple of streets of cafes, bistros etc on a little island, but most had finished accepting lunch orders.



Lots and lots of canola with a very strong smell when I had my window down.



Got to Chambery, where Google maps couldn't find the hotel's nominated drop-off point. So I just parked at Hotel de Ville parking.

Hotel des Princes is at an old building that used to be a convent, where the shroud of Turin was repaired after the scorching it received here (more on that later). A tiny, mansard room with really inconvenient roof beams - where you stand up from bed, and adjacent to the loo!!







Here for 2 nights and not very impressed. No aircon - and it was warm the first night, so I suffered. In-room phone didn't work - I needed to call a rellie that I'm visiting in a few days, and several other small annoyances.

 

[TheRealTMA]

Thanks, but I was wondering why, on the slopes, the rows and trellising go up and down the slopes, and not across them.

Makes vineyard work and harvesting easier and better drainage.

 

[OZDUCK]

Thanks, but I was wondering why, on the slopes, the rows and trellising go up and down the slopes, and not across them.

I would also like to offer my condolences. In regards to the direction of the rows this site might have the answer. It seems to be related to the compass direction of the hill in order to get a 'north south alignment' of the row. Plus a few other factors like erosion prevention and the desire for less "end post assemblies".

Which direction should I run my vineyard rows? – Grapes

 

[love_the_life]

RF, I am sorry to hear of the death of your brother, but what a wonderful way to remember him, with this trip. When my father passed (back in 1994), although most of the money as expected, went to mum, the children received $20K each either in cash or a write down of money they had borrowed. We used our 'windfall' to take the children to the UK in 1996 to meet MrLtL's relations and also visit Paris and other places, something that normally at the time we could not have afforded. He was probably turning in his grave as he saw spending money on travel a waste and would have much preferred my brother's approach who used his $ to begin property investments. Don't care - the children still talk about the trip and although we have travelled extensively now, I wouldn't regret it at all.

To get back to the TR, loving the photos and living vicariously. Thank you.

 

[kookaburra75]

Thanks, but I was wondering why, on the slopes, the rows and trellising go up and down the slopes, and not across them.

It's easier, and safer to drive a tractor up and down a slope rather than trying to drive across the hill. Especially as the hills are so steep.

 

[RooFlyer]

To visit Chambery I think was recommended by a few AFFers and it suited me as I was going to visit a rellie who lives in the Massif de Bauges mountains to the NE.



After a couple of long drive days, the day I spent in Chambery was designed as a bit of a easy time, just mooching about.

I did my usual recce stroll on arrival - Friday evening. A strong sense of the Savoie





I soon found one of the major attractions in the town - the Chateau of the Ducs of Savoie - will visit tomorrow. This is the back of it.







Then there's the elephants - will find out more tomorrow, too.

 

[RooFlyer]

For a local dinner, Restaurant Le Savoyard was recommended and I was able to walk in without a reservation. A very friendly place, with zero attitude from the young staff. I had the suggestions



With a terrific local Gamay red. I love the 50cl bottles.



Some of the other wine selection:



A nice crust on this one



And the entrecote a la point.





And cheese of course. He did explain what they were but got lost in non-translation.



Next table had an interesting construction. heat lamps melting cheese as-you-go



Although service compris, I left the waiter E5 as he got the perfect mix of French and English for me.

 

[RooFlyer]

Had a slow morning - went to a few shops, had a good coffee, did some Trip Reporting ( ) - good not to be rushing around, as I usually do.

The elephants again. Fontaine des éléphants was finished in 1838 to commemorate the exploits of General-Count de Boigne in India.





After lunch I wandered down to the Chateau de ducs de Savoie, which was begun in the 11th Century and of course modified through the years, with major additions in the 14th and 15th centuries. Chambery and this site sits at a European Crossroads since before Roman times, so was a good place to control movements (taxes etc).

The Savoy state ran from approx Chambery to NW Italy and parts of Switzerland. And the Dukes first had their capital in Chambery but in 1563 moved it to Turin, taking the Shroud of 'Turin' with them. It was used administratively until 1600 when the French sieged the place and the French Monarch took possession soon thereafter.




The Dukes moves their 'capital' from Chambery to Turin in 1563 - taking the Shroud of 'Turin' with them (more later).

​

So in I go at the gate "Admission libre' and found the entry desk.



There I found, in succession:

* You can't wander the castle - you have to take a tour.

OK, where do I join a tour?

* Its only in French and you join at the Tourist office in the town.

Not here? No. When do they run?

* At 2:30pm ... very soon. And they don't tour the castle, just the central courtyard and Saint Chapelle (church); its mainly a walk around the town.

So that was a waste of space. No Chateau-gazing for me. The complex is now the regional administrative centre. The other side of the castle is nice

 

[RooFlyer]

There is a church Saint Chapelle within the Chateau complex, also off limits to the public, which is an enormous pity, considering its significance (as I discovered). Basically to those taking a tour in French, once a day.

What we call the Shroud of Turin emerged in documentation the 1300s. It was acquired by the Savoys and for a while was housed in the Saint Chapelle, in a silver case. Wikipedia gives a succinct run-down:

In 1453, Margaret de Charny deeded the Shroud to the House of Savoy. In 1532, the shroud suffered damage from a fire in a chapel of Chambéry, capital of the Savoy region, where it was stored. A drop of molten silver from the reliquary produced a symmetrically placed mark through the layers of the folded cloth. 'Poor Clare' Nuns attempted to repair this damage with patches. In 1578, Emmanuel Philibert, Duke of Savoy ordered the cloth to be brought from Chambéry to Turin and it has remained at Turin ever since.

The Shroud of Turin: 7 Intriguing Facts

The controversial shroud that is claimed to have once covered the body of Jesus first appeared in the 1350s and is now available for online viewing.

www.history.com

The fire and Shroud scorching occurred in Saint Chapelle.





The Princes Hotel, where I'm staying, was the former convent of the 'Poor Clare nuns' where the Shroud was repaired.

The next significant thing to see in Chambery is the Cathédrale Saint-François-de-Sales, downtown. It is well known for its almost 6,000 sq m trompe-l'œil painting, largest in in Europe. The building dates from the 15th century



The arches are real. You can imagine that illuminated only by candles, the effect would be more complete.

 

[Cruiser Elite]

Does anyone know why they plant the grapes up and down the slopes and not along the contours?

As others have noted and response from Brian Lynn at Majella simply to make it easier to work with machinery

 

[Gladstone Tim]

Thank you RooFlyer for unveiling this part of the world to me. So informative and engaging.

 

[LostRedditor]

Looks like a great trip so far, RooFlyer!
We're also staying a night at Crowne Plaza - next month in fact - and I'm curious if they let you access the showers and wardrobes after checking out. We also fly out late so we're looking to make use the pool before checking out the Jewel