Oh Babushka - trips within a trip - Thailand, UAE, Oman, Spain, Portugal, UAE again, Sri Lanka and Singapore

Wednesday 12 December 2024 - Obidos-Seville We Take a Road Trip

Today we will drive to Seville, about 4.5 hrs to the east.

We stopped in to visit the old town of Obidos, which would have been great with an old aqueduct (had we not been totally spoilt by Elvas) and a nice castle and city walls (had we not been spoilt by Sintra) 🤭.

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That's not an aqueduct!!!

Still, a cute town for a stroll, especially as it was decorated for Christmas.

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Yes, I did succumb to a couple more fancy bottles of Ginja!

Gold filigree jewellery in the local style was also a popular item for sale, and it is beautiful - light and delicate.

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I am happy to say a pair of beautiful earrings embedded themselves in my ears and refused to leave until they were purchased by Mr Seat 0A as a wedding anniversary gift. I haven't worn them much, as it turned out that the little clasps on the back of the post are extremely close-fitting and are all but impossible for me to remove without serious pain to my ears. I keep meaning to take them to a jeweller here for adjustment, but haven't quite made it yet. I honestly don't know what I am doing with my time these days!

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Next we strolled around and enjoyed the bookshop in the main cathedral - it could easily have been in one of those bibliophile posts on Facebook (that tells you a bit about my Facebook Feed - it's all fantastic book shops/libraries and advertisements for learning Japanese!)

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Wandered around the old town and noted the old, old, lemon (or maybe orange?) trees in all the house gardens, appreciated the pretty outdoor dining areas that must be lovely in the warmer months, and finally admired the tiled chapel in the city wall.

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Then on the road to Seville for a complex route planned to minimise tolls and maximise coffee stops:

A8N - A15E-AC25_EN366-A1S-A10E-A13S-A6E-A5-N630S-A66 for which we paid EUR 23.90 in tolls.

Boy were we glad to arrive in Seville.

Stayed at the Ibis Styles, which was great. A big room with a very comfy bed, which made me realise in retrospect how uncomfortable our bed in Obidos was. A nice rooftop pool and bar area where we enjoyed our Accor welcome drinks.


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1 night including breakfast and parking EUR52.80 and some Accor reward points.

Today's Steps: 5,996

Goodbye Portugal. I really enjoyed the time in Portugal. It has never really been on my radar as a destination until Almost DIL came into the family. I now think I will be back a few more times as there are still plenty of amazing places to visit, and I would happily go back to Elvas, Lisbon and Sintra again.
that photo of the ?chapel with the arch and blue tiles is just beautiful
 
that photo of the ?chapel with the arch and blue tiles is just beautiful
Thanks @VPS. It was a little chapel inside the town wall. The town wall had a couple of right angle turns, presumably to prevent raiders just storming in. This was tucked away on the back wall of one of the turns.
 
Thursday 12 December 2024- Seville to La Linea de la Conçepcion - Two Controversial Decisions

On the road again for the remaining 3 hrs of the trip to La Linea, our cheaper jumping off point for a couple of days in Gibraltar.

Controversial Decision #1 - we did not spend any time seeing anything in Seville :eek: IKR! Given the places we have already visited, and the planned visits to Cordoba and Granada, we didn't really think the sights of Seville that looked radically different and we were pressed for time as Gibraltar was on Mr Seat 0A's "must do list". As I think it's likely we will be back in this region at some point in the future, I'd be very pleased to hear people's suggestions for Seville.

Controversial Decision #2 - we decided to stay in La Linea rather than Gibraltar proper. Yes it involved us in having to walk about 500m extra each day to get to the border, and yes, La Linea is a pretty grimy, seedy, unattractive sort of a town, but we figured we were literally only there to sleep. And it was so much cheaper - 2 nights with breakfast at Ohtel La Linea for EUR 240 in a "suite" - more on that later. Compared to the cheapest we could find on Gibraltar at GBP 450 for the stay.

A straightforward trip saw us arrive just after midday. Tried our luck on early check in, and yes, we were given access to our room.

The pluses of our room:
  • huge suite with a bedroom, and separate lounge area
  • totally spectacular views of the Rock of Gibraltar and the harbour/marina area from our balcony
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  • spectacular views over the Gibraltar airport where we were able to watch the daily coming and going of aircraft into the fairly tricky airport
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The minuses of the room/hotel:
  • pretty shabby - old, uncomfortable, stained furnishings and curtains
  • rather uncomfortable bed
  • a plethora of notices forbidding this, that or the other thing
  • stingy breakfast
Anyway, we did a quick unpack and re-sort of the day pack as it was raining, and then we walked for less than 10 minutes to reach the international border. I was excited to get an "exit Spain" stamp in my passport, but very disappointed to receive nothing at all in Gibraltar - not an entry stamp or an exit stamp. As soon as we were over the border, it was like "little England", with red phone boxes, and the street names being very British - Winston Churchill Ave, Queen's Way and Prince Edward's Gate for example.


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Walked a further 3 minutes to the bus stop and then caught the Route 5, using a pre-purchased Hopper ticket (GBP 6.00 ea), which proved to be a very good investment.

Gibraltar is very hilly and of course is dominated by the Rock, which is over 420m high. We wandered (sorry I keep stealing your word @wandering_fred ❤️) some very narrow and hilly streets, really noticing the age of the buildings and the tokens of British heritage everywhere. But the cars are all left hand drive.

Next we caught the #2 bus, intending to visit Europa Point, but we went in the wrong direction and ended up in Market Square. No worries, just hopped on another bus going in the right direction. Shared the bus with 3 families with some of the most obnoxious children I have seen in a while. They were yelling at each other and the girls in particular were shrieking and squealing. They were snatching things from each other, dropping food on the floor of the bus (there were no eating signs everywhere) and running and tackling each other in the bus. It was feral, and their parents just ignored it and talked amongst themselves. Wild!

It was a winding road and exceptionally narrow in places. These drivers are very skilled. Saw the famous Europa Point lighthouse and the mosque at the foot of the Rock. Another reminder of the Islamic influence in this part of Europe.
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Luckily the rainy weather had started to clear, and we were able to just make out the coast of Africa, which is about 20km directly across the Strait of Gibraltar from Europa Point. You can see why Gibraltar is such a strategic point, especially in WWII. I tried to take a photo, but it was too hazy to be able to make it out.

Enjoyed a good coffee and some hot chips (which we had to defend from the seagulls, same the world over!) while we waited for the bus, which we took back to the main street. Hopped off and walked through the very English High Street (Marks and Sparks, anyone?) before hopping on yet another bus back to the border, which they call the Frontier. Crossed over, more stamps in the passport for Spain, and then walked through an extremely seedy stretch of bars and eateries where very customer was drinking and smoking - hard. Walked the main street of La Linea, which was similarly down at heel and grubby past a coffee shop where all the locals were having afternoon tea - coffee and cakes - at 1800! Hilarious. The only open restaurant was an Indian place called, you guessed it The Taj Mahal, where we got a very decent chicken dhansak and lamb rogan josh and naans.

Back to the hotel to unpack and rest my tired feet. Tomorrow, we will visit the Rock itself.

Todays steps 15,346
Weather: rainy and 11 degrees.
 
You know, I am so bookmarking each post/town for a (now) planned Portugal visit next year. I did a bit of work in Spain in the early 2010s, but only got to Portugal once, in 2012 for a quick 5 day trip between tasks and I went north to Porto.

I'd be very pleased to hear people's suggestions for Seville.

As you say, you'll probably be going back and if you do, you must not miss Salamanca, Segovia and Avila in eastern Western Spain. And make sure you pronounce Seville properly (and apologies if you have been before and seen these places) :) .

In Seville, the Alcazar, bullring, cathedral (and its bell tower, Giralda), Plaza de Espana . Lots.

Cordoba not far away - I'm taking a day trip by rail from Barcelona to there in August.
 
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You know, I am so bookmarking each post/town for a (now) planned Portugal visit next year. I did a bit of work in Spain in the early 2010s, but only got to Portugal once, in 2012 for a quick 5 day trip between tasks and I went north to Porto.



As you say, you'll probably be going back and if you do, you must not miss Salamanca, Segovia and Avila in eastern Spain. And make sure you pronounce Seville properly (and apologies if you have been before and seen these places) :) .

In Seville, the Alcazar, bullring, cathedral (and its bell tower, Giralda), Plaza de Espana . Lots.

Cordoba not far away - I'm taking a day trip by rail from Barcelona to there in August.
We had Salamanca and Segovia on the initial planning, but just ran out of time - this was a side trip after all 😆. We decided to do the southern loop and so missed those places and Porto in Portugal, for example. Next time, likely a northern loop!
 
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Friday 13 December 2024 - Gibraltar - What a Day!

Quite excited after yesterday's intro to Gibraltar to be going back today to do the Rock.

Our pre-purchased cable car tickets included a shuttle to the base of the cable car from the Frontier, and we found it easily just opposite the Eroski supermarket. Still disappointed that there is no entry stamp in the passport. BTW, got yelled at by a border guard about 20 sec after taking this photo - I guess we were too focused on the Rock to think whether it was any security issue.

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The view from the cable car on the way up was quite nice:
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but nothing compared with the amazing views from the top of the Rock, which were simply stunning, in every direction. I took lots of photos, which became one of the themes of this amazing day.

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Some views from the top:

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Yep, that's the runway in both these photos. And it's the Marina outside our hotel.
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The Rock dominates everything. New multi-storey residence and hotel blocks under construction.


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It was a beautiful day, and such good luck that we had today also available as it was rainy and cloudy most of the day yeserday. I would have been really peeved to miss out.

The other theme was up hill and down dale. Boy did we walk some! Started off towards O'Hara's Battery which is at the highest publicly accessible point of the Rock. At first, we walked down. Then we walked up. Then we walked up some more. Stopped at a vantage point.

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Then we walked up some more, and up and up and up some more.

Along the way, we saw the famous cheeky macaque monkeys, although we kept our distance. However, there were some very cute scenes that involved baby monkeys, monkeys eating, monkeys grooming each other and monkeys just chilling out.

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Anyway, onwards and upwards we trudged until we finally reached O'hara's - quite hot and sweaty. I cannot imagine how they got artillery guns and animals up to this point during the various wars!!

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Ate our picnic lunch at a nice little spot with a pretty view.
 

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Rock of Gibraltar Part 2

Next, we decided to walk down to the WW2 tunnels. It was a downhill walk of about 3 kms - if you don't take any wrong turns. How hard could it be, right??

Answer, well if you have a dodgy paper map, poor internet coverage and Google Maps gaps, it is harder than it has to be. Quite a few wrong turns were indeed taken, necessitating lots of re-tracing our steps back up hill and making a better choice at the forks in the path 😆. And the beautiful morning weather turned dodgy too, and it started to rain on us! And my feet were getting sore. As any experienced walker knows, downhill is often harder on the body than uphill.

Still, one foot in front of the other and we eventually made it to the WW2 tunnels, which were amazing. To start with, they were huge. the network of tunnels ran from one side of the Rock right though to the other side so that messages about enemy shipping could be relayed. There are many, many more kilometres of tunnels yet to be made safe and presentable for public access. I found the social history exhibits very moving, talking about the mandatory evacuation of women and children to Morocco in 1940. It was partly for civilian safety, but mainly to make space for military billets. Then, only a few months after that, because of a spat between France and England, the evacuees were moved again. To London. In the height of the Blitz. And they were regarded as an annoying foreign burden. Some of the wealthier citizens who could pay their own way settled in Madeira, where they were welcomed because their investments propped up the failing Madeiran economy.

After a lengthy visit to the tunnels, all that was left for today was to make our way home - a long, long walk on very tired feet. We arrived at the famous runway crossing just as the 1630 daily BA flight landed. Great close up view, followed by a walk across the tarmac. Quite thrilling. You can no longer drive across the runway since mid 2023 - they have built a tunnel. But pedestrians, and bikes are still allowed.

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Once back over the border into Spain, we followed local tradition and went for coffee and cake at about 1730 at the hilariously named local bakery "Okay -since 1961" It must have seemed like a good idea at the time to call it that. I was pretty chuffed that I managed to order coffee and pastries and request to pay by credit card all in Spanish. Sat for a while and enjoyed the local hubbub. The decided to move to savoury pastries for dinner. I neglected to take any photos of this at all!

Limped the last few blocks back to the hotel and had a big night in with some downloaded content on Britbox - The Jetty with Jenna Coleman, which was quite good.

Steps today: 27,448
Flights of stairs up: 25 floors
Flights of stairs down: 130 floors - yes you read that right, one hundred and thirty floors
Temperature: forgot to record it!
 
Saturday 14 December 2024 - La Linea to Cordoba

To avoid tolls of about EUR 24.50 we backtracked almost to Seville and then on to Cordoba, for a total of about 3.5 hrs travel time, including a coffee stop.

Arrived and checked in at Hotel Hesperia Cordoba to a lovely, clean, modern room, with excellent wifi and a great view of the Roman Bridge built in the 1st century BCE, with Arab reconstruction in the 700s. It was the only bridge from this side of the river into town for centuries.

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The bedhead was an Islamic inspired mosaic

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Views of the bridge and old town from our room as the afternoon golden hour arrived


Mr Seat0A took a reccy walk into town for our plans the next day. My feet and shins were still sore from yesterday's efforts so I didn't go with him.

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The street trees looked magnificent, laden with beautiful oranges. I sampled one that had fallen and it was very unpleasant to eat. Then I googled it and found that the street trees were in fact "bitter oranges" - yes they were! These were selected because they look more beautiful that standard orange trees. What a disappointment!

When dark fell properly, there was a Christmas themed drone show over the Roman Bridge. Just like the coffee shop in La Linea, it was OK, but nothing more 😆 . I am definitely a fireworks person.

Today's steps: 3,945.

Accommodation, breakfast and car parking for 2 nights EUR 297.40.
 
Sunday 15 December 2024 - Cordoba - Wow! Wow!! Wow!!! Part 1

Out into a crisp, clear, cold, blue morning for the very short stroll to the Roman Bridge and then over into the old city of Cordoba (Qurtuba in Islamic times).

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After the Romans, came the Moors around early 700s, who were supplanted by Christians in the 1100s. By the 900s, Qurtuba was a thriving walled city with over 250,000 inhabitants. Wow!

We entered the Mezquita Catedral (Mosque-Cathedral) at 1000, and wow, wow, it was amazing. First we walked through a large quadrangle full of citrus trees, fountains and paths made of fine stones laid in beautiful patterns.

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Then we entered the building, which was originally a mosque until it became a Catholic Cathedral in the 1200s. The mosque was constructed in the late 700s, and subsequently expanded over the years until the reconquista and conversion to cathedral around 1236. The Islamic part of the building is minimalist and beautiful in its symmetry and simplicity inside and out.

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The cathedral part includes many small chapels and a large Royal Chapel. The cathedral was consistently revised and added to from the 1200s onwards, with major alterations during the Renaissance in the period 1550-1600. To my eye, it was excessively over-decorated with lavish carvings and lots and lots of gold leaf.

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Advent candles being lit

Overall, it is huge and spectacular. We only found out the immense population of the medieval Qurtuba after we visited the Mezquita Catedral, and in that context its size and lavish adornment make sense. Being Sunday, we had to leave by 1130 so that Mass could be conducted - the Cathedral complex is closed each Sunday between 1130 and 1500 for worship.

The rest of the day was spent wandering the very narrow streets and alleyways of the Old Town, in particular the old Jewish Quarter (completing our survey of three major world religions in one day). We inspected a remaining segment of the old city wall, and visited the old Jewish Synagogue, which also had lavish carvings and graceful architecture. Wow, wow, wow.

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The streets are really crowded with mostly Spanish tourists and large groups visiting the Mezquita Catedral. Other than the very excessive amount of smoking, its a nice vibe, with family and friends chatting, eating and enjoying the sunny day.
 

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