Nepal - hiking adventure

[Dantas]

A van arrived at the hotel this morning to collect our bags and then we made the 10 minute walk back to the airport. Found an ATM that liked my card so managed to get some rupees. Checkin for U4605 KTM-PKR (Pokhara) on Air Buddha was fairly seamless and I didn’t even have to drop the old DYKWIA because they allocated me seat 1C! It’s an ATR72 accordingly to Flighty and it’s on time performance isn’t anything to brag about. Scheduled departure was 0855 and we’re currently in the departure area staring at the screens. Most airports are closed due to weather (including PKR!). There’s some movement now for other destinations so finally some free seats available. I think we will be here for a while, but gives me a chance to catchup on my TR!

As a side note, I’m using an eSIM for the first time. Telstra doesn’t offer day pack roaming here so it become necessary. A friend recommended Airalo and after entering the promo code EXPLORE15 it knocked 15% off the $AUD130 for unlimited data on a 10 day package.

 

[Dantas]

The Buddha Air experience was great! We departed at about 11am, so about two hours late but that was due to poor weather at Pokhara causing the airport to close (fog). As soon as it opened flights were taking off every 10 mins. They've got a good luggage solution here - at both departure and arrival. Each involves a short bus ride from the terminal to the aircraft and they attach a trailer with our luggage to the tow bar. Probably a good thing since the luggage tags are handwritten with just the flight number on them! Not a baggage receipt in sight.

Seat 1C had me on the right hand side of the aircraft which was great for the snow-capped mountain views. On-board experience was good (board from the rear on these bad boys), no IFE of course and only refreshment was a small drop of water served in a paper cup. Landing was smooth at their new airport. We were then met by our jeeps to the Round House which is where our local guide Naran lives. As the name suggests it's a circular house built of bricks and would be a fantastic place to stay. We had lunch there which was a great feast of chicken cooked over coal, momos and salad, with a few Gurkhas. We then visited a temple with great views of Pokhara and Phewa Lake. We then drove down to our digs for the night.

Hotel Tara is 3-star and we were on the 5th floor (they skipped 4). A porter took care of our bags but the sweat was dripping off the poor bugger after his second trip - no lift here! After a quick shower we then walked past the lake and local shops. Eventually ended up at the Busy Bee for a few more Gurkhas before dinner at Moondance. I had the best chicken korma and naan, with more Gorkhas and somehow didn't take any photos. Retired at the Tara around 11pm.

 

[Dantas]

Up at 5.30 this morning to sort our hiking packs and get for what we come here for. Breakfast was at the hotel followed by real coffee at a cafe with Himalayan beans down the road. We left our suitcases and non hiking stuff at the Hotel Tara (along with passports) and then climbed into one of the two Mahindra 4wds that were waiting for us. Our group has now doubled with the porters now joining us. Bishnoo has paired up with me and will carry my pack for the journey. We were also joined with Dominqua and Ryan who we met at the Round House who will be with our group for the next three days or so.

It was an hour or so before we got to our first check point at Nayapul. Checkpoints are all along these routes as all trekkers are required to have permits. We had a masala tea here and continued on. The bitumen sooned turned to gravel and then to mud and rock and for most of the time single lane. It was rough but comfortable, with spectacular views. A Patrol or Landcruiser couldn't have done it, primarily as their horn isn't as loud as the Mahindra. Yes, even in the middle of nowhere, sideways in the mud on the edge of a steep cliff, a horn is still necessary. Because around every corner, someone could be coming the opposite way!

Another two hours or so we arrived at Banthanti where we had lunch at Fishtail Guest House. It was a thali meal with chicken curry, rice, roti, spinach and veg. I also grabbed a Mars bar for 300 rupees. Great views of the valley.

Then we finally got started on the trek. Ghorepani was our destination which is about 6km or so. Within about 500m we were met by goats and then not long after we spotted bee hives. What I think are vultures are often overhead. There are shops selling soft drinks, chips, beer, chocolates etc all along the track. We stopped about 3km in for a quick break and then made it to Ghorepani at about 4pm. There's another check point here which is manned by police.

We made our way to the Sunny Hotel where we had a room on the lower level. It's hostel style but my room has an ensuite but the hot water wasn't working: a quick visit to reception fixed it. The temperature here is a little cooler; 14 degrees compared to 25 in Pokhara. Our room has a cracked window frame so after the sun went down it got a lot colder!

The top floor is the dining room/restaurant which has a fridge full of beer and soft drink and a selection of wine, including Gossips from Australia. I opted for the beer. A fireplace surrounds the tables which makes it cosy. Our group played Uno (or Ek in Nepali) until the chicken curries arrived. Again, great food.

Going to be a cold night though! Beanie in bed I think. Note the tea houses and hotels supply bedding but your own sleeping bag and inflatable pillow is the way to go.

Today’s hike 6.2km/2hr28min/628m altitude gain, finishing the day at 2874m above sea level.

 

[MEL_Traveller]

For those not doing the trekking thing, Buddha Air also has sightseeing flights along the mountain range to Mt Everest. They are expensive, around USD240 for 50 mins, but everyone gets a guaranteed window seat.

 

[Dantas]

Morning coffee with Annapurna 1 in the background. Heading to Mt Lucky today.

 

[Dantas]

After a heavy breakfast of porridge with mountain honey and banana and a masala omelette, packs were packed and we were off again. Quite a steep incline to start but then levelled out with beanie on beanie off, sunnies on, sunnies off, jacket on jacket off etc which continued all day. I wore a new pair of toe socks to prevent blisters (they worked) and had a great day. We stopped at Thapla Dandi (3165m) for a masala tea and Cadbury dairy milk and then continued on to the lunch stop at Deurali - the Yak Hotel. I bought a yak hair rug for Rs1300 ($Aud13.50) and we had chicken dal baht for lunch. Heaps of trekkers passed through including one from Tassie. It got pretty cold here so jackets and beanies come out but we soon warmed up after lunch. The plan was to eat like a local with our fingers but as soon as the cutlery arrived that all stopped.

Then the hard slog to our next camp began. Lots of steep bits but with spectacular valley views. Heaps of rhododendron trees (the national flower) and some interesting pine trees. Saw some locals milling some timber by hand - hard work. We saw plenty of highland cattle (or are they yaks?) who didn’t mind being in our photos. By this time we could also see directly across to the Sunny Hotel at Ghorepani where we had spent the last night. Hard to believe it was about 900 metres lower than our current location. Quite a few stops along the way but no more shops or tea houses. Nor toilets so some of us had to make use of the surroundings.

We got to the top of Mt Lucky at about 3.30pm, just prior to climbing 1000m for the day. Then a drop down to Mt Lucky Hotel at Dobato for the night.

Only two showers here for the 20 or so that they can accommodate but we made it work. Hot water was great and after freshening up we found our way to the dining room for a few Gurkhas and a game of backgammon. The dining room had a wood heater in the centre and a great view of hills and mountains. I ordered chicken noodles which was great and also had a few pakhoras, spring rolls and chips.

Most retired early as there’s an early start tomorrow.