Lhasa - travel requirements

Status
Not open for further replies.

munitalP

Suspended
Joined
Oct 10, 2006
Posts
3,802
Has anyone experienced travelling to Lhasa? I am reading conflicting reports on varied websites including "official" Chinese sites regarding:

1. Chinese Visa - single or multi entry visa required
2. Travel permission into Tibet
3. Travel guide (sanctioned) per day required / not required

Looking at planning my 2011 holiday, and Lhasa popped out of my "must see before I die" bucket, and it may well be a Shanghai, Xi'an, Lhasa holiday if I can actually get into the country!

cheers
 
Im not very useful for your original question, however if you don't already have an APEC card, then do not write Tibet on your visa application otherwise it will be promptly refused :)
 
I read that site with interest and has me thinking actually doing a guided tour, at least it will cover bases with guides and permits

Cheers

I gave always wanted to visit Tibet and the North face of Everest.. great link!
 
Hi munitalP,

We were in Tibet in September. Lhasa is incredible - well at least the old part is. The Han Chinese have invaded and have succeeded in making large parts of Lhasa seem just like any other city in China. The majority of businesses and tourism, even in the the old part, are largely Chinese-owned. We found it difficult to source authentic Tibetan food, handicrafts etc. as the Chinese, who are by far the largest proportion of tourists and who swarm in big tour groups, aren't interested in Tibet or Tibetans per se.

Anyways, I'm sure you don't need me to continue down this path - after visiting Lhasa you'll develop strong opinions of the situation there - however, this has ramifications for the traveller. So here's what happened in my experience regarding your queries:

1. Tibet is in China so a single entry visa is all that's needed (unless you're planning to overland Lhasa to Nepal then back to Lhasa for example). Do not, DO NOT, mention Tibet on your Chinese visa application. Once you're in the country, you're free to roam anywhere, including Tibet. [I put Urumqi - where the Han are doing the same as Tibet to the Uighurs - on our application and received a call from the embassy - "Why you go Urumqi? Resend application with no Urumqi".] Just put Beijing, Shanghai and Xian and you'll be fine.

2. You must have a Tibetan travel permit. You can't get on a plane/train to Lhasa without this. It's often asked for at checkpoints within Tibet too (so overlanding from say, Golmud, is out - if it's even a possibility at the time). It's virtually impossible to visit Tibet with only Tibetan companies. I scoured several sources on the internet - lonely planet was the most meaningful - and could not find a company willing to organise the permit without a "tour". Rock and a hard place.

3. You must have a guide to travel outside of Lhasa and into some Monastaries (including the Potala Palace). You're free to wander around Lhasa on your own.

There is another permit (Alien Permit) that the company will organise for you too.

Let me know if you have any other queries. It's a great place to visit - full of anachronisms and wonderful scenery (however this could be seen in other Himalayan regions). The Barkhor/Jokhang Temple is one of humanities most awesome spectacles.
 
Happy Dude,

That's great input of the quality you won't find with a quick google lookup, thanks, such feedback from those that have been there done that is priceless.
 
Hi munitalP,

We were in Tibet in September. Lhasa is incredible - well at least the old part is. The Han Chinese have invaded and have succeeded in making large parts of Lhasa seem just like any other city in China. The majority of businesses and tourism, even in the the old part, are largely Chinese-owned. We found it difficult to source authentic Tibetan food, handicrafts etc. as the Chinese, who are by far the largest proportion of tourists and who swarm in big tour groups, aren't interested in Tibet or Tibetans per se.

Anyways, I'm sure you don't need me to continue down this path - after visiting Lhasa you'll develop strong opinions of the situation there - however, this has ramifications for the traveller. So here's what happened in my experience regarding your queries:

1. Tibet is in China so a single entry visa is all that's needed (unless you're planning to overland Lhasa to Nepal then back to Lhasa for example). Do not, DO NOT, mention Tibet on your Chinese visa application. Once you're in the country, you're free to roam anywhere, including Tibet. [I put Urumqi - where the Han are doing the same as Tibet to the Uighurs - on our application and received a call from the embassy - "Why you go Urumqi? Resend application with no Urumqi".] Just put Beijing, Shanghai and Xian and you'll be fine.

2. You must have a Tibetan travel permit. You can't get on a plane/train to Lhasa without this. It's often asked for at checkpoints within Tibet too (so overlanding from say, Golmud, is out - if it's even a possibility at the time). It's virtually impossible to visit Tibet with only Tibetan companies. I scoured several sources on the internet - lonely planet was the most meaningful - and could not find a company willing to organise the permit without a "tour". Rock and a hard place.

3. You must have a guide to travel outside of Lhasa and into some Monastaries (including the Potala Palace). You're free to wander around Lhasa on your own.

There is another permit (Alien Permit) that the company will organise for you too.

Let me know if you have any other queries. It's a great place to visit - full of anachronisms and wonderful scenery (however this could be seen in other Himalayan regions). The Barkhor/Jokhang Temple is one of humanities most awesome spectacles.

Wow, that answered every one of my questions - thanks a lot!

I will PM you in a couple of weeks once SWMBO considers my 3 options I gave her for our holiday, these were:

1. MEL/PVG, a few days in Shanghai, then train tour to Lhasa, or
2. MEL/PVG, Xi'an (never been there), Beijing, Harbin (second time for snow & ice festival), home, or
3. MEL/PVG, Xi'an, Beijing, Nanjing (never been there), Zhoushan, home


Some additional questions.

How did you cope with the altitude? Did you have the constant cough and nausia, or had you acclimatised at some other city prior to visiting. Also, how much were you paying for the guide? Was this a government employee to "guide" you to where they wanted you to go rather than where you wanted to go?

Cheers

munitalP
 
Interesting thread. Last week I wrote to the new St Regis in Lhasa to see what assistance they can provide in getting a permit - haven't heard back yet.
 
Wow, that answered every one of my questions - thanks a lot!

I will PM you in a couple of weeks once SWMBO considers my 3 options I gave her for our holiday, these were:

1. MEL/PVG, a few days in Shanghai, then train tour to Lhasa, or
2. MEL/PVG, Xi'an (never been there), Beijing, Harbin (second time for snow & ice festival), home, or
3. MEL/PVG, Xi'an, Beijing, Nanjing (never been there), Zhoushan, home


Some additional questions.

How did you cope with the altitude? Did you have the constant cough and nausia, or had you acclimatised at some other city prior to visiting. Also, how much were you paying for the guide? Was this a government employee to "guide" you to where they wanted you to go rather than where you wanted to go?

Cheers

munitalP

No probs munitalP..... as you mentioned earlier, there is a lot of conflicting information out there.

Although your wife is spoiled for choice, I reckon you should not miss Xian. I was unimpressed with PVG. The entombed warriors are incredible and Xian is a very nice city to boot. One of the best places to eat in all China. It'd be very easy to tack on a few days there after Tibet (seeing as though you've already done the Ice Festival in Haerbin).

Anyways, your questions:

Altitude: I had hallucinations and mild nausea brought on by extreme shortness of breath only when at Everest Base Camp. We were only there for around 14 hours. It only happened during the night and I didn't sleep a wink. By morning it had sorted itself out. No-one I spoke to had any similar problems. As far as general altitude is concerned, the wife and I didn't have any serious issues and neither did any of those we spoke to. We trained it up from Chengdu (the train ride is superb and assists with acclimatisation). If you choose to fly, just factor in a day of doing very little after arrival. We did notice being puffed from simply walking up steps occasionally.

Guide: It's difficult to say the cost of the guide because it was included in the overall tour price. Wife and I did a private tour, meaning that we were our own "group" and we paid for a guide, a Land Cruiser with driver, (and their costs), all accommodation, train to Lhasa, pick-up and drop-off, some entrance fees, park fees, permits, etc. The price you'll pay depends on your desired level of comfort, where/how far you go, and how many days you stay there. We paid around USD$1800 for our 12 day trip.

Our guide was a Tibetan girl (we insisted on a Tibetan guide) and it is highly unlikely she had any links to any government. The only rule we had to follow was not photographing the military (there are a lot of armed soldiers in Lhasa - completely unnecessary and somewhat upsetting to see around the Barkhor IMO). However, we chose the itinerary and locations we wanted to visit (with some input from the company regarding distances and durations). I understand there's only a few areas that are off-limits and these are way way off the beaten track.

Check out Spinn Cafe on the internet. They were very helpful. We would have toured with them but they couldn't organise our transport. We really didn't want to fly in and train tickets can be very hard to get at certain times as they only can be bought 10 days prior to departure. For us, who we toured with came down to who could get us train tickets for the day we wanted.
 
No probs munitalP..... as you mentioned earlier, there is a lot of conflicting information out there.

Although your wife is spoiled for choice, I reckon you should not miss Xian. I was unimpressed with PVG. The entombed warriors are incredible and Xian is a very nice city to boot. One of the best places to eat in all China. It'd be very easy to tack on a few days there after Tibet (seeing as though you've already done the Ice Festival in Haerbin).

Anyways, your questions:

Altitude: I had hallucinations and mild nausea brought on by extreme shortness of breath only when at Everest Base Camp. We were only there for around 14 hours. It only happened during the night and I didn't sleep a wink. By morning it had sorted itself out. No-one I spoke to had any similar problems. As far as general altitude is concerned, the wife and I didn't have any serious issues and neither did any of those we spoke to. We trained it up from Chengdu (the train ride is superb and assists with acclimatisation). If you choose to fly, just factor in a day of doing very little after arrival. We did notice being puffed from simply walking up steps occasionally.

Guide: It's difficult to say the cost of the guide because it was included in the overall tour price. Wife and I did a private tour, meaning that we were our own "group" and we paid for a guide, a Land Cruiser with driver, (and their costs), all accommodation, train to Lhasa, pick-up and drop-off, some entrance fees, park fees, permits, etc. The price you'll pay depends on your desired level of comfort, where/how far you go, and how many days you stay there. We paid around USD$1800 for our 12 day trip.

Our guide was a Tibetan girl (we insisted on a Tibetan guide) and it is highly unlikely she had any links to any government. The only rule we had to follow was not photographing the military (there are a lot of armed soldiers in Lhasa - completely unnecessary and somewhat upsetting to see around the Barkhor IMO). However, we chose the itinerary and locations we wanted to visit (with some input from the company regarding distances and durations). I understand there's only a few areas that are off-limits and these are way way off the beaten track.

Check out Spinn Cafe on the internet. They were very helpful. We would have toured with them but they couldn't organise our transport. We really didn't want to fly in and train tickets can be very hard to get at certain times as they only can be bought 10 days prior to departure. For us, who we toured with came down to who could get us train tickets for the day we wanted.

So the $1800 (I assume each) included everything from the moment you reached Lhasa, or did it also include getting you there. I have seen prices as high as $850 one way for a 1st class sleeper from Shanghai / Lhasa, so $1800 is very reasonably priced if it includes everything.

I would consider train to and fly back, that gives acclimatisation on the way - do you think that helped you?

munitalP
 
Was thinking of going there this year but had to put off.
Initial enquiry's consensus is to train it up there and then fly down. As stated by Happy Dude, this is to help acclimatisation.
I believe that one can buy oxygen tanks/cannisters in Chengu or on the train for use in
Lhasa if needed.

Dec/Jan will be too cold for me!:shock:
 
Was thinking of going there this year but had to put off.
Initial enquiry's consensus is to train it up there and then fly down. As stated by Happy Dude, this is to help acclimatisation.
I believe that one can buy oxygen tanks/cannisters in Chengu or on the train for use in
Lhasa if needed.

Dec/Jan will be too cold for me!:shock:

My studies to date say that the train is oxygen enriched during the high passes - yet a TR I read on another site said the toilet windows were open :shock:, I don't know what to believe, and they supply face masks to attach to your own connection when travelling over the highest parts of the rail pass - but Lhasa is ~1500m lower from what I can work out...

Its colder in Harbin that time of the year ;)
 
Read our AFF credit card guides and start earning more points now.

AFF Supporters can remove this and all advertisements

NO you dont have to book a tour - you have to book a guide. This is why I asked for people experienced in being there to reply sam - which you obviously are not.

Yes, I got my words muddled up, but I note the first two posters to this thread above my post hadn’t been there either and weren’t "experienced", yet you didn’t attack them.

I’m just trying to be helpful, no need to bite my head off. :rolleyes:
 
Mr P I haven't been there so my contribution may not be much help but I have always found the Lonely Planet series of travel guides very useful,along with the Thorn Tree forums.
There is a fair bit of information on Lhasa in the Lonely Planet Tibet guide,there is a new version of that due out in March or there is a 2008 edition available now,you can get either edition postage free from the Book Depository site:-
Book search for lonely planet tibet - page 1 - at The Book Depository
You could also post your question on the Thorn Tree forum:
Lhasa - Train or Fly? - Lonely Planet travel forum
Good Luck.
Cheers
N'oz
 
Mr P I haven't been there so my contribution may not be much help but I have always found the Lonely Planet series of travel guides very useful,along with the Thorn Tree forums.
There is a fair bit of information on Lhasa in the Lonely Planet Tibet guide,there is a new version of that due out in March or there is a 2008 edition available now,you can get either edition postage free from the Book Depository site:-
Book search for lonely planet tibet - page 1 - at The Book Depository
You could also post your question on the Thorn Tree forum:
Lhasa - Train or Fly? - Lonely Planet travel forum
Good Luck.
Cheers
N'oz

Cheers, there is some good stuff on the thorn tree site - a good forum

munitalP
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Become an AFF member!

Join Australian Frequent Flyer (AFF) for free and unlock insider tips, exclusive deals, and global meetups with 65,000+ frequent flyers.

AFF members can also access our Frequent Flyer Training courses, and upgrade to Fast-track your way to expert traveller status and unlock even more exclusive discounts!

AFF forum abbreviations

Wondering about Y, J or any of the other abbreviations used on our forum?

Check out our guide to common AFF acronyms & abbreviations.
Back
Top