Europe, with an Arctic cruise, a Balkan tour and bits of France and Malta

Time to return to San Souci. It was another day 34-36 degrees and I had again arranged dinner there (its not close to anything, so eating there is convenient and delicious!

This shows where the B&B is - in a tiny, tiny village surrounded mainly by wheat fields and sunflowers, right in front of San Souci, unfortunately not yet flowering.

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The wines are local, Touraine, from a little winery nearby

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Bien. :)🍷 Sunflowers in the mid-ground. Imagine them in flower.

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An amazing display of aircraft contrails; all the guests were 'admiring' them.

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Main was beef skewers

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You wouldn't begrudge me a desert, would you - with all that chateau-ing? Grand macaron maison de jour and home made pistachio ice cream that really tasted of pistachios!

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Brekky. The view

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Blueberry waffles and cream ....

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This is one of three levels spanning the river

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At the other end is a drawbridge and path to the other river bank.

There is so much to love about this château but perhaps the most interesting role it has played in history was as a major escape route during WWII. The river was the border between occupied and free France and so the gallery bridge was used to help people flee from the naz_s.
 
The Château de Chenonceau is the closest chateau to San Souci, abt 10 mins drive. Its built on a bridge across the river Cher.

Here's a pic from Wikipedia, linked to above.

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A bit 'a history:







Entrance

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The place gets 800,000 visitors a year - over 2,000 per day and it felt like it.

Entrance way

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This is one of three levels spanning the river

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At the other end is a drawbridge and path to the other river bank.

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Chenonceau is probably my favourite Château!
 
On my final full day, I took a loop out to the west to see the Fontevraud Abbey and Royal Tombs and a couple of chateaux recommended by my B&B hosts: Châteaux de Brézé and d'Azay-le-Rideau.

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I thought I might include the chateau at Samur, but the traffic was crazy and Google couldn't lead me to parking after a loop and a half, so I made do with this, when stationary on the bridge. Pity not to visit, but a lot to do today.

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Next, Château de Brézé and I'm so glad I went; certainly some unique features, including an "underground chateau" and "one of Europe's largest underground fortresses" (their words), so what's not to like? Its still owned and half-occupied by descendants (although not of the very original owners!!!). Easy to find and lots of free parking.


From the front, it just looks the usual:

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But then you cross the deep dry moat and get an idea of what's to come.

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There are about 3km of tunnels and even living places, a bakery, winery etc probably dating from the Vikings (9-11 centuries), certainly recoded in 1060.

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You first pass into the central courtyard

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And entry into the chateau, where you traverse some galleries and rooms - I didn't take any pictures!

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Then down into the dephs we go.

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But then there are the tunnels and what they contain

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This is 'St Vincent's gallery', dug in the 15th century to link the moat with the chateau's vineyards (they still produce their own line of wines).

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A winery - with three ancient presses. Grapes were pressed here from the 15th century up to 1976!

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Then there are the so-called 'troglodyte dwellings' or 'underground chateau' (to put it .... grandly :) ). Excavated in the 13th or 14th centuries by the de Breze family.

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There was a lot more but eventually the path leads up back out to the moat, connecting to the chateau basements and the surface.

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An amazing place.
 
A short drive to the Abbey of Our Lady of Fontevraud, where the parking was limited, but free :). Its an amazing complex - this from Wikipedia

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The compulsory history (abridged).

Around 1100 Robert of Arbrissel (a religious leader who became a hermit after being cast out) and his followers settled in a valley called Fons Ebraldi where he established a monastic community. Initially the men and women lived together in the same house, in an ancient ascetic practice called Syneisaktism. This practice had been widely condemned by Church authorities, however, and under pressure the community soon segregated according to gender, with the monks living in small priories where they lived in community in service to the nuns and under their rule. Sometime before 1106, Fulk IV, Count of Anjou gave a significant property gift to the abbey.

They were recognized as a religious community in 1106, both by the Bishop of Angers and by Pope Paschal II. Robert, who soon resumed his life of itinerant preaching, appointed Hersende of Champagne to lead the community. Later her assistant, Petronilla of Chemillé, was elected as the first abbess in 1115.


In his Rule, Robert dealt with four principal points: silence, good works, food and clothing, encouraging the utmost in simplicity of life and dress. He directed that the abbess should never be chosen from among those who had been brought up at Fontevrault, but that she should be someone who had had experience of the world (de conversis sororibus). This latter injunction was observed only in the case of the first two abbesses and was canceled by Pope Innocent III in 1201. At the time of Robert's death in 1117, there were about 3,000 nuns in the community.

In the early years the Plantagenets were great benefactors of the abbey and while Isabella d'Anjou was the abbess, King Henry II's widow, Eleanor of Aquitaine, made the abbey her place of residence. Abbess Louise de Bourbon left her crest on many of the alterations to the abbey building which she made during her term of office.

More (abbey site): History of the Royal Abbey of Fontevraud - Fontevraud

After going through the admission building (and declining another clunky self0guide thing), you first come to the abbey church


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The nave - spectacular

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Looking toward the choir and ambulatory, a highlight for me - tombs (or rather, effigies) of former Kings and Queens of England (which included half of France at the time :) - although the Royals actually spent much of their ruling time in the French territories)

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The tombs/effigies of Plantagenet King Henry II of England, his wife Eleanor of Aquitaine.


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and their son King Richard I of England (8 September 1157 – 6 April 1199) and his Queen Isabella of Angoulême . Richard the Lionheart . He also ruled as Duke of Normandy, Aquitaine, and Gascony; Lord of Cyprus; Count of Poitiers, Anjou, Maine, and Nantes; and was overlord of Brittany at various times during the same period.

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Henry and Richard (and later John) ruled over the Angevin Empire

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However, (paraphrasing) although abbey was originally the site of the graves of the above, and others, thir bodies are no longer on the site. Their remains were possibly destroyed during the French Revolution. The bodies of the French monarchs were likewise removed from the Basilica of St Denis in Paris in 1793 by order of the French government.
 
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Nit been to Cheverney. For gardens, while not on the chateau route, difficult to beat Monet’s Giverny.
Mmm I think they are just different.
Given my limited time, I avoided all the châteaux which are more known for gardens. 😊
I wouldn't say Villandry or Cheverney are known just for their gardens but they do enhance the chateau.

I did enjoy Rideau as well. You are so good at keeping up on the go and I still haven't posted my photos from years ago
 
You are so good at keeping up on the go and I still haven't posted my photos from years ago
Not quite two weeks behind now. 😊

i’m having a bit of a surge at the moment because I’m in Gozo; It’s really hot and I’m not going out between about 1 and 4 pm.
 
Not quite two weeks behind now. 😊

i’m having a bit of a surge at the moment because I’m in Gozo; It’s really hot and I’m not going out between about 1 and 4 pm.
I thought of you today. I went to the Cornwall museum and they had so many beautiful rocks. I just love looking at different rocks and always want to buy the bag of little rocks in the gift shop. Will post a couple in the VFMO thread
 
Some capitals

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and vault

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The ambulatory. So lucky that there only 2-3 other people there.

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Moving on to the cloisters

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And dipping into the Chapter House, off the cloisters. The seat of governance of the Abbey. The Abbess who created the chapter house, Louise de Bourbon, had herself painted into the frescos 😂

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Some of the work on the window arches off the cloister.

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The refectory, also off the cloister.

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