Europe, with an Arctic cruise, a Balkan tour and bits of France and Malta

[RooFlyer]

Besides lunch, there were two features at this site. High on the cliffs above us, and only seen from a distance was another pre-Ottoman Bosnian Kingdom emplacement, Stari Grad Blagaj, also known as Herceg Stjepan's Fortress.





Paraphrasing Wikipedia (because I love this stuff )

The archaeological material scattered above the slopes of Blagaj hill indicate that settlements existed here during the prehistoric and Roman periods. The south-western summit contains the remains of the present day Stjepan grad, a medieval or Ottoman period fort.

It is possible that Stari Grad Blagaj consisted of two parts in the early medieval period – the Old Fort (Stjepan grad) and Mala gradina, and that this twin settlement lasted at least until the mid-tenth century. The earliest indirect source in writing on the Zahumlje forts, including Blagaj, is the "Treatise on Peoples" by the Byzantine Emperor and writer Constantine Porphyrogenitus, dating between 948 and 952, in which two forts are referred to – Bona and Hum.

After the 10th century, Blagaj played an important role in the development of Hum or Zahumlje. A major influence on its development was the proximity of a major route linking the Adriatic Sea with the Bosnian hinterland via the Neretva valley (“via Narenti”).

By the time of King Tvrtko, Bosnian rulers were issuing charters in Blagaj, and in May 1404 Blagaj became one of the residences of Duke (vojvoda) Sandalj Hranić, and then of count (herzeg) Stjepan Vukčić Kosača, after whom the people named the fort Stjepan grad. The first written reference to it is a peace accord between Duke Sandalj Hranić and the Venetians, from November 1, 1423, issued “in our town of Blagaj”. It was also mentioned in the 15th century charters of the King of Aragon and Naples, Alphonse V.

The Ottomans occupied Blagaj in 1465, and by 1473 references to the kadija of Blagaj already exist. The Ottomans repaired the fort twice: in 1699, when the west tower was repaired, and again in 1827. A garrison was stationed there until 1835, although the fort's former strategic role had long since been taken over by Mostar.

The other feature was an Ottoman noble's house, at the base of an over-hanging cliff where the River Buna flows out of a cave at its base.



A very large cliff ...













We went inside the house, but it was very hot, and when we were told that this supposed 15th century house was in fact mainly from the 19th century and earlier versions had been damaged or destroyed by rockfalls during earthquakes, I made a hasty retreat.

 

[RooFlyer]

Well fed and watered, our next stop was near Stolac




More precisely, the Radimlja Stećak necropolis. We first saw stećaks, or medieval tombstones that are scattered throughout B and H and adjacent countries, at Lukomir, up in the mountains. At Stolac is one of the largest number of the stećci, and is on the World Heritage register.

Wikipedia:

The earliest tombstones can be dated to the second half of the 12th century and the first half of the 13th century. However, the majority of the stećak tombstones date from the 1480s through the 16th century, as evidenced by the epitaph on one of the tombstones. This was the period when the family Miloradović-Stjepanović from genus Hrabren lived in the settlement located on near hill Ošanići. At the time the location was known as Batnoge, and the creation of the necropolis coincides with the rise of this noble family. Miloradović-Stjepanović family from the genus Hrabren were of the Orthodox faith.

Here is the Miloradović-Stjepanović tombstone, with its inscription. Remarkable.



The 130+ stones depict all sorts of things, marine (anchor) farming (animals). There are skeletons beneath at least some of the tombstones.











This is on the cover of the pamphlet they give out, but the actual stone now is almost illegible in the direct sun. it’s at the entrance and is thought to portray the graveyard guardian saying 'stop'

 

[FlyingFiona]

Wow that riverside lunch spot looks idillic, especially after seeing the falls.

 

[Drakecula]

View attachment 450111

The rooster on the bridge is waiting until he gets 50 euros to jump. People can also jump for 50 euros, but there is some instruction involved.

I'm pretty sure Hamish and Andy jumped from this bridge some years ago when they did their travel series. I just googled, I remembered correctly!

Also @RooFlyer, I recall from my trip to Paris, Notre Dame was still closed after the fire, but we visited Saint Chapelle which was nearby for glorious stained glass windows. Not sure you'll get the chance when you're back in Paris, but FYI just in case: Canada, Mexico, Europe, oh my! RTW here we go.

 

[TheRealTMA]

I'm pretty sure Hamish and Andy jumped from this bridge some years ago when they did their travel series. I just googled, I remembered correctly!

Also @RooFlyer, I recall from my trip to Paris, Notre Dame was still closed after the fire, but we visited Saint Chapelle which was nearby for glorious stained glass windows. Not sure you'll get the chance when you're back in Paris, but FYI just in case: Canada, Mexico, Europe, oh my! RTW here we go.

Hoons!

 

[RooFlyer]

I've managed to conflate two days. The tombstones were the first place we visited on the day we left Mostar and our next destination was a family owned winery for a wine-tasting.



The last 30km or so into Trebinji was along a broad, flat valley with an underground water source. During 'the golden age' of Yugoslav times (as out guide often called it), it was full of cropping and fed the country. Now, much of it is overgrown and the output is vastly reduced.



Lots of vineyards, presaging our next stop.







It wasn't so much of a wine tasting as wine served with cheese, prosciutto and olives (a blessedly light lunch), as the owners don't speak English. No commentary, just good pours. We had a tour of their little winery



The range







The white - zilavka - which i would relate to a Sav Blanc.



There was a rose and then this red



On an adjacent table was this interesting thing



They produce a range of rakijs, the local fruit based spirit similar to grappa. Kiwifruit, walnut, and others. I bought a couple.

 

[RooFlyer]

Then onwards over the coastal mountains and down into to Dubrovnik, where would spend a night before the tour ended and most of us flew out.





Unlike when we went the opposite way on the first day, crossing the border from Bosnia into Croatia was slow at both points. This is the Croatian crossing, immigration on the right then customs. In all but one crossing on this trip, the driver presented our passports en mass to the officials while we sat in the bus.



Onwards to Dubrovnik







Our hotel was the other side of the Old Town and was by far the worst of the trip. Hotel Vis, AKA Hotel Avoid. From 'communist Yugoslavia' era, it was strange firstly because of all the stairs - there were about 25 from the street down to the hotel (and of course up when leaving) and inside there was no elevator but to get to my room on the same level, I first went down some stairs, then up again to my room.

 

[FlyingFiona]

Dubrovnik looks promisingly lovely! What a shame about the unpleasant hotel at the end. There really is no excuse for that curtain, and what's with the weird shelf bit - and uncovered window. It's all a bit weird and ick. Hope the bed is a Goldilocks for you!

 

[RooFlyer]

Dubrovnik looks promisingly lovely! What a shame about the unpleasant hotel at the end. There really is no excuse for that curtain, and what's with the weird shelf bit - and uncovered window. It's all a bit weird and ick. Hope the bed is a Goldilocks for you!

Sort of . The mattress was obviously old, and soft/saggy which was not necessarily bad for me, but I was feeling pretty crook. Not sure if I mentioned it before, but I'm taking (injecting) Mouanjaro - a type of Ozempic - and it kicked in a week prior to this day. It works by slowing the emptying of your stomach, therefore making you feel full most of the time and while that's great for weight loss its not so good for being out and about and you can feel a bit nauseous occasionally. I had also developed some heat rash ?prickly heat' on one of my arms and coupled with my general tiredness, I made an early begging-off the final group dinner in the Old Town that night. Potentially kind of funny, as I had been tasked with collecting the tips for our guide and driver - a handy sum, in the end - and to present them to them at the dinner. If I was a no-show .....

For those unfamiliar, it is customary for tips to be given to the guide and driver at the end for good performance, and in this case I would think everyone thought, and many said, both were very deserved. Envelopes are handed round and people can put in what they wish to, anonymously. So if you don't wish to tip, you are not shamed. There is a 'suggested' amount given by Exodus in the trip notes and if followed it would be between 50 and 70 euros, each for the guide and 20 euros or so to the driver. If 18 pax followed, and I think they would have, its a handy amount for someone from Bosnia. Fatima our guide was exemplary and extremely thoughtful and Semir our driver showed great skill, so both deserved it.

 

[RooFlyer]

There was an extra guided tour of Dubrovnik that about 1/2 the group took and paid for. After a bit of a lie-down I thought I could go to the dinner so made the effort to catch the bus from the hotel door to the Old Town. 2.5 euros.

It was still hot, and within the town there was no breeze (and dinner was going to be outside), so after an hour I again begged off dinner and took an Uber back to the hotel.

I was last in Dubrovnik Old Town 15 years ago and my memory from then is walking down the main drag with it completely packed with people. It wasn't quite so bad this time but my feeling toward the place is the same as Venice - seen it, didn't really enjoy it, no need to go back. But here are some pics from my walk-around. I won't comment as they were just tourist snaps.

 

[pagingjoan]

Oh, RooFlyer! Two sad points there.
That your journey finished on a less than high note - and that you are not enamoured of Venezia.

Next time you find yourself in Dubrovnik, try Villa Dubrovnik.

Villa Dubrovnik, Dubrovnik, Croatia

Villa Dubrovnik is Croatian through and through: built from grey stone, styled by a Brazilian designer, and boasting Adriatic views that a seagull would migrate for.

www.mrandmrssmith.com

Superb service, perfect view of the old town, excellent rates at the end of season, and complimentary Venetian water taxi shuttle any time you want to go into town or return. Brilliant.

And we have been revisiting Venezia annually (Covid and health issues aside) for 20 years. A street off the tourist track anywhere and it is all but tourist-free and the Biennale offerings add enormously to the experience - Giardini, coughnale and multiple private palazzi around town that open up for exhibitions, often free of charge.

Apologies if I have hijacked your report. Have enjoyed the memories of our travels around Bosnia-Herzegovina and Montenegro.
Thank you for a great report. Hope you feel better quickly.

 

[RooFlyer]

Superb service, perfect view of the old town, excellent rates at the end of season, and complimentary Venetian water taxi shuttle any time you want to go into town or return. Brilliant.

Excellent, bookmarked, thank you.

Apologies if I have hijacked your report.

Never!. That’s what it’s here for - for everyone to share ideas and experiences. .

My view of Venice I must say was enhanced by one particular stanza. It was crowded but I sat down for a coffee at a little cafe next to one of the small bridges over the canals.

A dog came by and halfway up the steps coughed his leg and I was witnessed to a wonderful waterfall of urine down the steps, one by one by one. Perhaps I really shouldn’t let that colour my overall view.

 

[pagingjoan]

Excellent, bookmarked, thank you.



Never!. That’s what it’s here for - for everyone to share ideas and experiences. .

My view of Venice I must say was enhanced by one particular stanza. It was crowded but I sat down for a coffee at a little cafe next to one of the small bridges over the canals.

A dog came by and halfway up the steps coughed his leg and I was witnessed to a wonderful waterfall of urine down the steps, one by one by one. Perhaps I really shouldn’t let that colour my overall view.

Perhaps not!
We can meet there next time, and I will try to give you a different view of Venezia!

 

[RooFlyer]

Map of Dubrovnik referencing the bombing from the hills above by Bosnian Croats.





I believe this dog - 'Lucky' was the only one around the well structure to survive an earthquake.






A pic taken by one of the group after dinner - the polished limestone of the road is a real danger for slipping.



The dinner. Apparently the food was forgettable.



Our fabulous guide, Fatima on the right, and driver Semir. Both Bosnians.



Meanwhile, this was my dinner - some juice and a bowl of peanuts. No concerns, please, I wasn't hungry and was glad just to get a very early night.

 

[RooFlyer]

Next day, a very forgettable breakfast in a forgettable hotel and those of the group who weren't staying on in Dubrovnik took the group bus to the airport. Much hugging etc. The airport is a long way out of town, understandable when you consider the topography.



As the group flight for LGW left an hour before mine to VIE and on to CDG, I had a bit of a wait. But at check-in was told I could access the Adriatic Lounge, which wasn't expected, so that was a plus.

Waiting for check-in. Quite a good airport.



Finding the lounge was a bi of a task - it was up in L3, amongst nothing else.




It was pretty good. Uncrowded when I arrived. Not bad set of food and bev. Wifi OK too.









However in the next 2 hours the lounge filled up to capacity.



And when I left there were people waiting, refused entry dur to over-capacity.