Europe, with an Arctic cruise, a Balkan tour and bits of France and Malta

[RooFlyer]

Besides lunch, there were two features at this site. High on the cliffs above us, and only seen from a distance was another pre-Ottoman Bosnian Kingdom emplacement, Stari Grad Blagaj, also known as Herceg Stjepan's Fortress.





Paraphrasing Wikipedia (because I love this stuff )

The archaeological material scattered above the slopes of Blagaj hill indicate that settlements existed here during the prehistoric and Roman periods. The south-western summit contains the remains of the present day Stjepan grad, a medieval or Ottoman period fort.

It is possible that Stari Grad Blagaj consisted of two parts in the early medieval period – the Old Fort (Stjepan grad) and Mala gradina, and that this twin settlement lasted at least until the mid-tenth century. The earliest indirect source in writing on the Zahumlje forts, including Blagaj, is the "Treatise on Peoples" by the Byzantine Emperor and writer Constantine Porphyrogenitus, dating between 948 and 952, in which two forts are referred to – Bona and Hum.

After the 10th century, Blagaj played an important role in the development of Hum or Zahumlje. A major influence on its development was the proximity of a major route linking the Adriatic Sea with the Bosnian hinterland via the Neretva valley (“via Narenti”).

By the time of King Tvrtko, Bosnian rulers were issuing charters in Blagaj, and in May 1404 Blagaj became one of the residences of Duke (vojvoda) Sandalj Hranić, and then of count (herzeg) Stjepan Vukčić Kosača, after whom the people named the fort Stjepan grad. The first written reference to it is a peace accord between Duke Sandalj Hranić and the Venetians, from November 1, 1423, issued “in our town of Blagaj”. It was also mentioned in the 15th century charters of the King of Aragon and Naples, Alphonse V.

The Ottomans occupied Blagaj in 1465, and by 1473 references to the kadija of Blagaj already exist. The Ottomans repaired the fort twice: in 1699, when the west tower was repaired, and again in 1827. A garrison was stationed there until 1835, although the fort's former strategic role had long since been taken over by Mostar.

The other feature was an Ottoman noble's house, at the base of an over-hanging cliff where the River Buna flows out of a cave at its base.



A very large cliff ...













We went inside the house, but it was very hot, and when we were told that this supposed 15th century house was in fact mainly from the 19th century and earlier versions had been damaged or destroyed by rockfalls during earthquakes, I made a hasty retreat.

 

[RooFlyer]

Well fed and watered, our next stop was near Stolac




More precisely, the Radimlja Stećak necropolis. We first saw stećaks, or medieval tombstones that are scattered throughout B and H and adjacent countries, at Lukomir, up in the mountains. At Stolac is one of the largest number of the stećci, and is on the World Heritage register.

Wikipedia:

The earliest tombstones can be dated to the second half of the 12th century and the first half of the 13th century. However, the majority of the stećak tombstones date from the 1480s through the 16th century, as evidenced by the epitaph on one of the tombstones. This was the period when the family Miloradović-Stjepanović from genus Hrabren lived in the settlement located on near hill Ošanići. At the time the location was known as Batnoge, and the creation of the necropolis coincides with the rise of this noble family. Miloradović-Stjepanović family from the genus Hrabren were of the Orthodox faith.

Here is the Miloradović-Stjepanović tombstone, with its inscription. Remarkable.



The 130+ stones depict all sorts of things, marine (anchor) farming (animals). There are skeletons beneath at least some of the tombstones.











This is on the cover of the pamphlet they give out, but the actual stone now is almost illegible in the direct sun. it’s at the entrance and is thought to portray the graveyard guardian saying 'stop'

 

[FlyingFiona]

Wow that riverside lunch spot looks idillic, especially after seeing the falls.

 

[Drakecula]

View attachment 450111

The rooster on the bridge is waiting until he gets 50 euros to jump. People can also jump for 50 euros, but there is some instruction involved.

I'm pretty sure Hamish and Andy jumped from this bridge some years ago when they did their travel series. I just googled, I remembered correctly!

Also @RooFlyer, I recall from my trip to Paris, Notre Dame was still closed after the fire, but we visited Saint Chapelle which was nearby for glorious stained glass windows. Not sure you'll get the chance when you're back in Paris, but FYI just in case: Canada, Mexico, Europe, oh my! RTW here we go.

 

[TheRealTMA]

I'm pretty sure Hamish and Andy jumped from this bridge some years ago when they did their travel series. I just googled, I remembered correctly!

Also @RooFlyer, I recall from my trip to Paris, Notre Dame was still closed after the fire, but we visited Saint Chapelle which was nearby for glorious stained glass windows. Not sure you'll get the chance when you're back in Paris, but FYI just in case: Canada, Mexico, Europe, oh my! RTW here we go.

Hoons!