Democratic People's Republic of Korea

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Good to see you're still hard at work in the DPRK, posting away for our entertainment and edification, ermen. But with Western Imperialist Running Dog comments like these, you might find yourself getting an up-close and personal look at the inside of one of The Beloved (New) Leader's gulags before too long! :D


Far away from the DPRK now. :D Btw he's styled the Supreme Leader :cool:

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Re: Democratic People's Republic of Korea (North Korea)

Fantastic report, thanks for sharing.
Here's a snap I took, looking back in the other direction (South to North). (We had all sorts of restrictions on the photographs that we could take, which direction we could point the camera, where we could stand...)

Comments from people who had been to the South suggested that it was much more exciting to come from there! Was pretty much a non-event coming from the North!
 
Re: Democratic People's Republic of Korea (North Korea)

A truly stunning and fascinating TR. One day, I hope to visit the DPRK as well...
 
Far away from the DPRK now. :D Btw he's styled the Supreme Leader :cool:
Lucky you're out...call him what you like, they were onto you...:D
Great reading, ermen and a thoughtful wrap-up to a thought-provoking TR and photos. Thank you!
Is there a Deng Xiaoping or Nguyen Van Linh in the DPRK to lead the reform process and open the country up so that its people can enjoy the fruits of what will be the Asian Century, I wonder...?
 
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Fascinating reading and reminiscent of a colleague of mine who wants to visit the "axis of evil" and has done North Korea.

I personally wouldnt comment on your choice of NK as a destination from a regime perspective but I am intrigued overall as to why? Personally there are 100 or 1000 destinations I would go to first and there seems little about NK that is a reason to go there other than novelty almost. The games mosaics looked amazing but for me reflected an investment in something unnecessary whilst people starve.

BTW I hope I didnt offend with my post - it is just hard for me to reconcile.
 
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I can understand why the OP would want to visit North Korea. I was talking to a colleague today about holidays, He likes Broome and loves the beach. For me I would sacrifice any beach holiday to be able to go underground in a coal mine. :shock:

I have been 2 miles underground (single drop cage lift) in South Africa in a gold mine, been on a working drag line and coal shovel, "behind the barriers" at a nuclear reprocessing plant, but never underground in a coal mine.

I have been fortunate enough to see bread loaves sliced with water, car engine plants manufacturing 6000 V6 engines a day, power stations fuelled by chicken droppings, neutron beam and electron beam accelerators, the world's largest brick plant, the alarm missile mobile maintenance facility, Fiat's rooftop test track, the Wild Turkey Distillery, but I really want to go underground in a coal mine.

Well done to ermen for traveling somewhere so different most of us would never consider it and will never see it. I welcome the opportunity to see and experience North Korea through ermen. i only ever see it through the western media.

.......and this year I am all lined up to make that first trip underground in a coal mine. :cool::D
 
I have been fortunate enough to see bread loaves sliced with water, car engine plants manufacturing 6000 V6 engines a day, power stations fuelled by chicken droppings, neutron beam and electron beam accelerators, the world's largest brick plant, the alarm missile mobile maintenance facility, Fiat's rooftop test track, the Wild Turkey Distillery, but I really want to go underground in a coal mine.

Here's an odd thing. Out of the that whole list of things, the one I have done, is the coal mine :shock:
 
This is by far simply the best TR I have ever read!

No J lounges (although you did mention per-departure drinks) no J seats or photos of food etc.

It is one Country that both fascinates and scares me at the same time. I am really surprised that you managed to get so many photos!

Thank you so much for taking the time to write this up
 
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I personally wouldnt comment on your choice of NK as a destination from a regime perspective but I am intrigued overall as to why? Personally there are 100 or 1000 destinations I would go to first and there seems little about NK that is a reason to go there other than novelty almost. The games mosaics looked amazing but for me reflected an investment in something unnecessary whilst people starve.

BTW I hope I didnt offend with my post - it is just hard for me to reconcile.

Why? I guess its probably the last chance to go back into time to go back into time to see what a true communist country is like. As mentioned, the consensus is that things will change in the DPRK (maybe within 5 years). I've also never grown up experiencing the Eastern Bloc / Cold War so wanted to go see what it was all about. Heard a comment from someone on the tour who had just been to Cuba last year - he said that the DPRK definitely more backward. Interestingly, many Chinese on the tour were saying they wanted to visit the DPRK to see and remember where they came from - and by all accounts, they said it was exactly how the PRC was in the 1970s and even the 1980s.

There are other places I would like to visit too but this tripped just fitted to my schedule - I had some time and the mrs didn't (and she didn't fancy going to the DPRK so may as well get it out of the way). Actually not that hard to get to as I'm based in HKG at the moment so only a relatively short hop.

Agree with your comment about the novelty but note that they are done as an exercise by school kids whom are not economically active anyway. The basic problem with their economy though is that a lot of resources are devoted into non-productive uses that do not provide real goods and services for the populance. With no real export industry, they are also unable to trade to get the goods that they want.

I honestly think the regime is seriously screwed up to continue to hold on to their beliefs (well it is apparent that the cat ain't catching any mice) and to continue to propogate it whilst they mess around with the lives of 90% of the population. We hope that at the every least, they can use China as an example on how to pursue economic reforms whilst maintaining political control.

Lastly, we hardly saw any shops in Pyongyang and no advertisements at all throughout the city. The lack of modern consumerism was somewhat refreshing and offered a different perspective. In fact, going to Singapore after the DPRK and walking around the shops, one cannot help but feel that all that materialism was somewhat "crass".
 
It is one Country that both fascinates and scares me at the same time. I am really surprised that you managed to get so many photos!

Actually not that hard to take photos. In Pyongyang, you pretty much had permission to take pictures of anything you wanted. Not meant to take pictures from train / bus though. Was lucky that the border guards didn't check any of our cameras though when we left the country.
 
Thanks also for taking the time to post this - I imagine it must have been a very thought provoking trip.
 
Re: Democratic People's Republic of Korea (North Korea)

Fantastic report, thanks for sharing.
Here's a snap I took, looking back in the other direction (South to North). (We had all sorts of restrictions on the photographs that we could take, which direction we could point the camera, where we could stand...)


And the border itself (North on the left, South on the right.)
dmz-border1.jpg

What happens if you put your feet from the south to the north and vice versa? :)
Also is there guard there? I don't notice anyone there? :)
 
Re: Democratic People's Republic of Korea (North Korea)

What happens if you put your feet from the south to the north and vice versa? :)
Also is there guard there? I don't notice anyone there? :)

You WILL be shot! Unless your inside the blue building ;)

Fantastic footage of the Arirang mass games in what is apparently the last time it will be performed. Maybe they're planning something even more grander next year, who knows?

We visited that exact same school and saw the same performance by, I think, the same children!

There are some signs Kim Jong-Un is abandoning the Songun or "military first" policy of his father and embracing an embryonic form of economic reconstruction. With the elections in South Korea soon I hope we see a "Willy Brandt" figure emerge. Maybe they'll rename ICN after them :cool:
 
Re: Democratic People's Republic of Korea (North Korea)

Comments from people who had been to the South suggested that it was much more exciting to come from there! Was pretty much a non-event coming from the North!
”Exciting” is an interesting choice of description. Coming to the Demilitarized Zone from the South there is certainly more drama and hoopla, than you seem to have experienced from the North. So I found it interesting to contrast my visit with yours.

From the South, a few days before travel into the DMZ visitors have to supply their passport details to the UN (where I write “UN” in this response, please feel free to replace the “N” with an “S”, and read it as “US” if you prefer), so the UN does a background check, before giving visitors clearance to travel. But this is akin to what you went through in China to get a visa, before you even entered the North, so no need for you to do it again just to enter the DMZ. We also had restrictions on what clothing we could and could not wear.

When entering the DMZ from the South, the UN supplies a “minder” to accompany visitors while they are in the zone. Again you got yours when you crossed the border into Korea, so no need for an additional one when entering the zone.

While in the DMZ visitors are restricted from taking photos, except at approved locations, and of approved settings. Just like you, no photos from the bus windows unless you are explicitly told that you may do so. I saw one person who had his camera requisitioned by the UN minder, who checked the photos that he had been taking. (You on the other hand, were lucky enough not to get your camera checked at the end of your trip.)

The trip up to the DMZ from the South certainly builds up to a climax, more so than your trip down from the North seemed to. As we sped North on our trip, copious and increasing amounts of razor wire fences and barricades became the norm, eventually even anti tank devices were deployed across sections of the main highway. The woods became littered with red flagged “mine field” warning signs, and we were told not to wander away from the group into the bush at any time. The further North we went along the highway from bustling Seoul, the less traffic there was, until we got to the point where it felt more like the main street of a ghost town. Of course our bus was bordered several times by the military, who inspected our passports.

So from the South there is a palpable sense of, an increase in tension, when heading into the DMZ, which certainly heightens the experience. Not to forget the final briefing before heading out to look at the huts on the demarcation line (at Panmunjom) where visitors have to sign a UN declaration basically absolving the UN of any responsibility if their heads get blown off while in the area.

That being said, in the picture of yours looking back across the border to the large metal and glass Southern JSA building, you can see the smaller building slightly behind to the right, well the ground floor of that building is the JSA gift shop! LOL - All good tourist traps need a gift shop.

What happens if you put your feet from the south to the north and vice versa?
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Source - South Korean detained for unapproved trip to North - seattlepi.com

Also is there guard there? I don't notice anyone there?
As ermen points out when you visit the demarcation line at the Panmunjom JSA (Joint Security Area), only the military from the side from which you are visiting stand on the border, presumably to protect you from attack from the other side. (After all there is still officially a war going on, they are just in the middle of a rather long cease fire.)

In the case from the South, no one stands at the specific "line in the sand" (it is interesting to note the different positioning of the guards from the two sides). As etops1 points out, my border picture itself is taken through a window from inside one of the blue buildings. And just like on ermen’s visit, there is a guard from “your side” at the building’s back (or front, depending on your perspective) entry, but you are free to move around inside. (e.g. step here, now I am in North Korea, step back, now I’m in the South, and of course the old “one foot either side” and "now I’m in both" routine.)
 
Re: Democratic People's Republic of Korea (North Korea)

very interesting indeed. can you bring kids to the DMZ? :)
 
Re: Democratic People's Republic of Korea (North Korea)

very interesting indeed. can you bring kids to the DMZ?
I assume you mean for tours from the South (as opposed to those form the North, like the one contained in this report).

The Koreans have a useful website in English - Panmunjom , which states a minimum age limit of 11 years for Panmunjom JSA visitors from the South.

When you think about approaching the demarcation line of the Koreas from the South, you should consider three levels of restrictions, as you head north to Panmunjom.
1. Firstly you encounter the CCZ (Civilian Controlled Zone). Access is controlled by the South Koreans, and mostly just amounts to an ID check.
2. Secondly you encounter the DMZ (Demilitarized Zone). Access to this area is controlled by the UN, and you will require prior approval to enter. (Basically need to be booked on a tour.)
3. Thirdly you encounter the JSA (Joint Security Area). Access through the southern section of this area is controlled by the UN, and there are even further entry restrictions in place.

There are different points of interest to see in each of the three zones.

For DMZ tours, you should book with a tour provider well in advance. But note that for tours which include the JSA, availability dates are only finalised about 2 months in advance, and they are on selected days only. (And, tours may be cancelled at a moment's notice, due to training or other military requirements.)
 
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