Ciao Italia - a Qantas Wine mega-bonus!

I practically never watch TV, but a few weeks ago somehow I stumbled on an SBS OnDemand series about Italy, with a focus on the food (Stanley Tucci: Searching for Italy).

The Rome episode featured Nonna Betta, a restaurant in the Jewish Quarter famous for is fried artichokes. It looked interesting, so I made a note of it and that is what we sought out for dinner.

The walk there on a gorgeous evening took us to the back of the Roman Forum and in front of the Monumento a Vittorio Emanuele II and through some lovely quiet alleys as we got into the Jewish Quarter.

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We ate outside, but the restaurant is beautifully decorated inside.

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The fried artichokes are a must-do and are delicious. Everything is palatable.

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Danged if I can get PJM to take pics on her phone in landscape… :rolleyes:

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And so ended a great day.
 
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I practically never watch TV, but a few weeks ago somehow I stumbled on an SBS OnDemand series about Italy, with a focus on the food (Stanley Tucci: Searching for Italy).

The Rome episode featured Nonna Betta, a restaurant in the Jewish Quarter famous for is fried artichokes. It looked interesting, so I made a note of it and that is what we sought out for dinner.

The walk there on a gorgeous evening took us to the back of the Roman Forum and in front of the Monumento a Vittorio Emanuele II and through some lovely quiet alleys as we got into the Jewish Quarter.

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We ate outside, but the restaurant is beautifully decorated inside.

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The fried artichokes are a must-do and are delicious. Everything is palatable.

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Danged if I can get PJM to take pics on her phone in landscape… :rolleyes:

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And so ended a great day.
Loved that series - just so sad the network did not extend it so he could explore each region as was the intention and that SBS only have S1&2 available. Those artichokes look great.
 
Next day there were no planned activities related to the prize. That was fine, because as previously noted, our travel companions had long-time friends in Rome. Well, at least they used to live in Rome, a mere stone’s throw from the Roman Forum, Circus Maximus and Colosseum, before retiring.

The other John and I have a great memory from almost 20 years ago of staying with them and walking down Viale Aventino a few hundred metres to go jogging around the Circus Maximus. Charlton Heston, eat your heart out!

Now they are retired and living in Fregene, on the coast a stone’s throw from FCO. Not only that, but they have a small (2.5ha IIRC) ‘farm’ where they grow olives, about 25 minutes’ drive away.

Today, we were in Francesco and Catarina’s very capable hands for what turned out to be a sensational, fun, educational, interesting full day’s outing, finishing with dinner at their son and DIL’s place in Rome, not far from our hotel. What a day! La dolce vita!

It started with Francesco driving into Rome to pick us up from our hotel and heading out towards Cerveteri and the nearby Necropolis Banditaccia, which turned out to be the most fascinating imaginable World Heritage listed Etruscan necropolis (Etruscan Necropolises of Cerveteri and Tarquinia; Cerveteri - Wikipedia).

Etruscan civilization dates from about 900 BCE and dominated central Italy before succumbing to expanding Rome, beginning in the 4th century BCE until 90 BCE when the Etruscans were granted Roman citizenship. Much Etruscan heritage has not survived sufficiently for modern understanding, so much mystery remains about that civilization (Etruscan civilization - Wikipedia).

Simply amazing to explore! I had no idea – and so close to Rome.

That was a highlight, amongst several, in a great day out. Here is a map of our general route, with a zoom-in to Banditaccia, to set the scene.


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After the drive out from Rome and meeting up with Catarina to spread ourselves across two vehicles, the first order of business was coffee in Cerveteri before heading to Necropolis Banditaccia.

Amazing! I had no idea – and it was super-quiet!

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The substrate is volcanic tuff that was easily excavated and cut, but which hardens on exposure to air. It will become apparent how this was exploited for constructing the tombs.

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The site is quite extensive. Many pathways have been excavated, but much remains buried and has been used for agriculture over millennia – later to be seen on Francesco and Catarina’s ‘farm’.

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Then to the ‘farm’, not far from the necropolis, and itself on a mound of earth covering un- or partly excavated necropoli. Naturally, regulations now prohibit interfering with any necropoli.

This year’s olive harvest had been poor. It’s only a hobby, normally producing IIRC about 2-300 hundred litres of oil for family and friends each year, but this year only about 60L. Harvesting is by hand with family and friends pitching in on a picnic day.

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Time for lunch. Buonissimo!

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Chill time, then a walk amongst the newer fruit trees before continuing on the drive, to Lago Bracciano in a caldera, and the source of Rome’s water supply.

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We then proceeded to Francesco and Catarina’s house at Fregene for a few beers before heading into Rome for a great family gathering over dinner.

A fabulous day!
 
Next day was our tarin ride from Rome to Florence. Chill start as the pickup is scheduled for 0945h and the train is scheduled for 1055h departure, and we have Italo lounge access and are travelling Club.

Nice – as the main platform at Roma Termini is, as usual, a bit of a rowdy zoo.

Our chariot.

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I think the word is that we were whisked from Roma Termini to Florence Santa Maria di Novella train station...

We are soon in our hotel around the corner from the station and right on Piazza Santa Novella, dan out to check out the sights and take in some lunch on the piazza.

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Not a bad view outside the front door of the hotel…

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After some lunch at the piazza, we went wandering. First the Florence classic – the Duomo.

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Piazza della Repubblica.

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Next morning dawned sunnier for our mid-morning electric cart tour of Florence. It was a pleasant 30-minute stroll along the Arno past Ponte Vecchio to the start point.

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The cart tour was fun. PJM was especially taken by sitting in the back, facing backwards, enabling flirting with oncoming Italian stallions on Vespas. :)

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Crossing the Arno and then past the Pitti Palace, once the residence of the Medici family.

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Fascinating and beautifully curated.

A stroll back to the hotel via the Mercato Centrale Firenze.

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It was Saturday, so market day in Piazza Santa Maria Novella.

And, in action, a fascinating rubbish disposal system that avoids having above-ground dumpsters. A discreet chute on the pavement leads to a large underground receptacle that is hoisted out for emptying. Very neat and tidy.

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Later, out to dinner at Cantinetta Antinori. Tuscan-style with Bistecca alla Fiorentina and a Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, plus some bubbles and white to get in the groove.

It was my birthday the next day. PJM hauled a candle out of her handbag, and I had to try a glass of Tignanello, Antinori’s top Super Tuscan (ie. not made solely with Sangiovese grapes – 85% Sangiovese, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc). Delicious.

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Buona notte and a stroll around the corner to the hotel under a full moon to end another excellent day.

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Later, out to dinner at Cantinetta Antinori. Tuscan-style with Bistecca alla Fiorentina and a Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, plus some bubbles and white to get in the groove.

It was my birthday the next day. PJM hauled a candle out of her handbag, and I had to try a glass of Tignanello, Antinori’s top Super Tuscan (ie. not made solely with Sangiovese grapes – 85% Sangiovese, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc). Delicious.

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Buona notte and a stroll around the corner to the hotel under a full moon to end another excellent day.
Finalmente! Dei carne e vini! Mi sembrano accettabili! :) :)
 
Next day was the day trip (0800-2000h) around Tuscany: Siena-winery lunch-San Gimignano-Pisa.

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The early start from Florence meant that our bus was, at least in the large carpark it went to, the first to arrive in Siena. A blessing, as it was very quiet as we wandered in, but by the time we were leaving Siena was the usual zoo.

Palacio Salimbeni and the adjacent Monte dei Paschi di Siena, the oldest bank in the world, founded there in 1472 and operating continuously there since then. The statue, commissioned by the bank and completed in 1880, is of Sallustio Bandini, a priest and politician, but commemorated primarily as an enlightened economist.

There was a more retail-looking branch of the bank a few paces on in another small piazza.

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A few old buildings and alleys as we wandered towards Piazza del Campo, the highlight of Siena.

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