Back in the saddle: One week in Japan

[Wanderlust_tim]

After a five year international travel hiatus due to Covid and fatherhood, my best friend invited me to Japan for his 40th where he was going diving with hammerhead sharks. Coinciding with my own birthday I thought it was time to get back in the saddle and start overseas travel again. I somehow managed to secure classic rewards flights to Tokyo about four months out and we spent a week in Japan at the end of August.

The journey was as follows:
Days 1 & 2: Izu Peninsula (Diving and hiking)
Day 3: Hakone and transit to Osaka
Days 4 & 5: Osaka (World Expo and Hanshin Tigers baseball)
Day 6: Hiroshima
Day 7: Flight home

This is more of a destination report than a flight experience report but what follows will hopefully be a brief overview that may be useful for AFFers.

 

[Wanderlust_tim]

MEL-SYD-HND

Although direct flights were available, business was available on the overnight flight from Sydney - Haneda, so this was the way to go. A leisurely departure time of 4.15pm meant I could meet Mum and Dad for a pub lunch before they headed to the football for Western Bulldogs v Fremantle. We tried the Mail Exchange Hotel just opposite the skybus entrance and I was very surprised at how good the meal was. It will become a go to for pre-game meals in 2026. I could barely climb over my fish and chips, which was just as well as the lounge fare was miserable.

It's been a good number of years since I had been in a Qantas lounge and I shan't be in a hurry to repeat the experience. Melbourne was the usual array of toasted sandwich options and little else. At one point a staff member came out pushing two salad bowls on a trolley and people eagerly lined up behind her to get the fresh fare. I was left sitting there perhaps unfairly thinking that this might have been what it was like in the Soviet Union where people would join a line if they saw one in case it was something good (spoiler, it wasn't).

Easy flight up to Sydney as usual, transit on the bus to international and joined the heaving throng trying to get through security. Up to the international lounge where the fare was not much better than Melbourne domestic. One curry option, salads and you guessed it, toasted sandwiches!

Onto QF25 and this was finally the business experience I had imagined. Lovely staff who kindly explained how to set up the bed, a steak dinner with a lovely potato gratin and then miraculously for me, six hours of sleep! This is about five more than I usually get on an overnight flight. It turns out that using Qantas points for business class on an overnight flight was well worth it.

Managed to catch the cap of Mt Fuji out the window, before a smooth landing and then what felt like a walk past at least 80 JAL and ANA jets as I made my way to immigration. Long lines as Air France and American Airlines had beaten us in, but it all moved quickly and I had a first sticker in my new passport. I wonder how many more I will get over the coming ten years.



Through immigration (I particularly loved the quirky stickers people had stuck all over the landing form desks), grabbed cash (which is always a relief when your card works that first time you try it overseas) and then off to the hotel Onsen for a few hours.



Friends had convinced me that it would be worth the 4800 Yen and they were spot on. Outdoor hot pools, soda baths, cold plunges, saunas and a herbal steam room (which was my favourite). It was a great way to recharge after a long flight. Dressed and fresh, I wandered up to the observation deck to wait for my friend who was picking up the hire car.

Haneda is an amazing airport and the sheer volume of plane movements were mind blowing. It was great to see a Lufthansa 747-8, and a mind trip seeing a little Korean Air jet, given I am used to seeing the heavies on the long flight between Australia and Korea.


My friend arrived, we grabbed a quick sandwich from 7/11 and we were on our way. Airport parking only 300 Yen! Next stop Izu Peninsula. Or at least that was the plan.

 

[Wanderlust_tim]

The journey from Haneda was smooth, albeit traffic jams were de rigeur, as you would expect from the world's largest city. We did well but missed one exit, which meant an extra $23 in tolls, but as the GPS triumphantly informed us, shaved 8 minutes off the journey!

Japanese highways are different to Australia with no rest stops, so we pulled into Nagaziuma, found the first konbini we could and grabbed a sandwich. The poor cashier's eyes popped out of her head when we walked in, I don't think they get too many Australian tourists there! The Chicken egg Teriyaki sandwich gets a solid 9/10.

We had no idea what terrain we would encounter on our way to the Izu Peninsula, I assumed we would be skirting the mountains in front of us. Boy were we in for a surprise.

 

[Wanderlust_tim]

Rather than heading through flatland we drove through winding mountains to reach Kawazu Seven Waterfalls.

The mountains are huge and the most beautifully lush green. The whole region has been formed by volcanic eruptions and left these amazing little mountains hundreds of metres high. Wasabi appears to be the local delicacy, we even passed a museum, but didn't stop this time.

As we approached Kawazu we both had our jaws drop at the sight in front of us. A circular bridge that looped around in front of us. We were both giggling like children as we went round and round.

Onto Kawazu Waterfalls and this is just a gorgeous spot. The waterfalls are visited along a walk over a few kilometres. Formed by volcanic eruptions there are what I assume basalt columns that water has eroded over time.

 

[Wanderlust_tim]

And so the day finishes in Izu-Inatori where our hotel is. Before that though we managed to catch a beautiful view as the sunset before we got into town.



The hotel is lovely but very traditional, I have a pair of slippers which I have to wear inside which are at best three sizes too small. The Yukata comically so. That's ok though, we are still very welcome.

Dinner provided was a traditional Kaiseki which highlighted local ingredients. There was so much food! Sushi, sashimi, shabu shabu, tempura, a whole red emperor in soy sauce. I can barely move and will sleep well tonight.

 

[drron]

There are rest areas on Japanese highways called Michi-no-Eli.

https://blog.gaijinpot.com/the-wonderful-world-of-japanese-rest-stops/

A lot are much better than Aussie stops May have several restaurants which are often very good quality.

 

[Wanderlust_tim]

There are rest areas on Japanese highways called Michi-no-Eli.

https://blog.gaijinpot.com/the-wonderful-world-of-japanese-rest-stops/

A lot are much better than Aussie stops May have several restaurants which are often very good quality.

That is really helpful, thank you for sharing that information @drron.

 

[Wanderlust_tim]

A good night sleep and the sun woke me up at about 4.15am, or maybe not as with the timezone change that's roughly when I would wake up on a normal day.

Busy day ahead is planned. My friend is off to dive with Hammerhead Sharks. Being much more comfortable on land than in the deep blue I am headed to Jogasaki Coast for a hike and then hopefully up to Mount Omaru to do another hike around the volcanic crater.

But first breakfast, and after the Kaiseki last night, I was hoping for a lighter affair. It wasn't to be, as we walked in to be greeted by another Kaiseki! We counted fifteen dishes awaiting us, from delicate tuna sashimi, pickled vegetables, tofus, chawanmushi, salad, mackerel and more dishes that I will never know the names to. The highlights were probably the squid and tuna sashimi, crab and miso soups and some pickled eggplant which was simultaneously sweet and peppery.

Inatori was having a slow start to the morning, as appears to be the case in most places in Japan. Most stores are still shut, but that doesn't matter as a local train would deposit me at Jogasaki-Kaigan station ready to stretch my legs in about half an hour.


Taking the train is straight forward, I love the old school ticket machines where you press the physical button you want. On the train for half an hour then a brisk walk to Jogasaki Coast. This neighbourhood is fancy. I am talking manicured Japanese Gardens for the front lawns and notably lock up garages, but maybe that's essential when you drive a Porsche. Even in Japan! I passed a beautiful glass workshop and particularly liked the sign welcoming visitors.


The walk around Jogasaki Coast is the typical volcanic rock jutting into the ocean. Climbing close to the ocean was just asking for me to roll an ankle, so they were avoided. The views from the lighthouse though were the best spot to take it all in.


My next aim was to head to Mount Omaru. I had deliberately not planned it, just would go with the flow. My luck was in, there are three buses a day there and the next one was in 30 minutes and only a 20 minute walk along the coast and through forest. Too easy, Mount Omaru here I come.

 

[Wanderlust_tim]

So after a lovely 40 minute drive up ever steeper roads we pull into the base of Mount Omaru. All 564m of it looming above me with a very steep gradient. I would love to climb it, but there are two problems. One, mountaineering is explicitly banned according to the signs on the fence and two, the grass is taller than I am.


So instead it's time to join the queue. I figured this place couldn't possibly be that busy. It's a hill, on a Tuesday. Oh how wrong could I be. The queue snakes at least 100m and I pass the sign saying a 60 minute wait. Not ideal in 36 degree heat and about 90% humidity, but needs must and after 45 minutes it's my turn. Ticket procured and the agent asks where I am from. When I say Australia, she gets very excited. Although Australians are voracious tourists it seems we are yet to discover this part of the world and I stand out even more so than usual.



Up the chairlift I go and in what seems like the blink of an eye I am up top and greeted with the most spectacular view. In front of me, the coastline and views to Atami. Behind me, the volcano rises showing the loop ahead.



Words cannot do the walk justice, so I will let the pictures do the talking. After a good hour spent exploring I go back down the chairlift, jump on a bus, change to a train, have a quick chat with home that fills my heart with joy before arriving back at Izu-Inatori, where I met my friend after his diving (he saw a hammerhead shark - so the journey is a success). Apparently the sharks had been more active in June and July with a colder current. As luck would have it the currents would change a week later bringing schools of sharks back to the dive site.

 

[rbjhan]

The statue in #4 is referencing 伊豆の踊子 The Izu Dancer, a very famous work by Kawabata Yasunari - made even more famous after the 1974 movie featuring Yamaguchi Momoe.

 

[Wanderlust_tim]

A chat with my friend over a beer and a Suntory and I am feeling much more relaxed. Over the road to the onsen before dinner. Words will have to suffice as pictures are obviously not allowed, but it's on the fifth floor of a hotel in the open air overlooking the ocean and southern coastline of the Izu Peninsula. I am very happy sitting in the open air bath on the balcony feeling the breeze wash over me whilst the remainder of me is submerged in a 42 degree bath watching the sky burn orange and go dark.

We are a little too relaxed and lose track of time, necessitating a mad dash back to the hotel for our final dinner. I was worried it would be the same as last night, but that was a needless worry. It was completely different and even better than the night before. So many dishes, I think about 18 tonight and I couldn't catch them all. Highlights were the sashimi and its presentation, grating our own wasabi root, the sweet and sour mackerel, fish croquettes, beef tongue, lotus root and finally a Matcha mousse. For all the walking I have done today I think dinner will have undone all the good work but that's ok.


As we finished up the waitress informed us of a fireworks display outside the hotel, so out we dashed. A wonderful end to a wonderful day.

 

[Wanderlust_tim]

Another good night sleep and we wake ready for a big day. My friend has a final dive scheduled and will then meet me 2.5 hours away in Odawara for our Shinkansen to Osaka at 6.07pm.

The morning starts with an onsen and as usual I completely lose track of time and leave myself five minutes to get ready for breakfast. Another 17 dishes await us with highlights being a seaweed jelly and some type of fish (maybe perch) cooked in a ponzu sauce.

Out the door and onto the train as it slowly makes its way up the cost to Atami, where I change for Odawara and then change again for the Hakone Tozen railway. This little railway is mostly single track and has three car sets, needing three switch backs to get up the mountain which has a gradient of 8% at its steepest. It's the second steepest railway in the world. Slowly, slowly but always moving we make it to the top and disembark at Gora station. From there most people make a beeline for the cable car as they continue on their journey around the park. I am headed to the Japanese Garden at the Hakone Museum of Art though and battle the steep hills to get there. In particular I am keen to see the Moss Garden. I love Japanese Gardens and this one is no different.



I pop into the museum afterwards and have a chat with the curator who is curious where I come from and why I had come. When I explained that I love Japanese Gardens and was lucky enough to have family near the Cowra Japanese Garden he was thrilled and noted the garden down in his notebook 'to investigate later'. I hope he likes what he sees.

From there I hopped on a bus to the Open Air Museum, saving my tired legs 30 minutes walk. The museum is magnificent filled with outdoor sculptures and I happily wander around for an hour. The highlight being the stained glass observation tower (whose name I have forgotten).





By this stage my friend was on his way and to meet him at Odawara I needed to leave by 4.09pm. I had 20 minutes up my sleeve and on the bus on the way down I saw what I thought was the perfect spot to snap a shot of the train as it comes down from Gora Station. I was very pleased with how the shot came out.

 

[Wanderlust_tim]

As I went back down the mountain it was mostly a smooth trip, as Japanese railway trips tend to be. On the way up I noticed an intermediate station, Tonosawa looked very pretty. A platform sitting snugly between two tunnels in the middle of the forest and not much else going on. As we waited at the station I could sense the conductor getting more and more anxious. The train coming up the hill was late, blocking off the track ahead.

Knowing I had a spare 15 minutes up my sleeve, I decided to hop off and take in the atmosphere of what felt like an abandoned part of the world. To my great surprise I discovered a shrine at the end of the platform. Two steps in and I am under tree cover, it's dark and all I can hear is water running feeding the shrine. It's almost like I have stepped off into the spirit world. I turn around and the train is gone, replaced with the one heading up the mountain.


I spent the next 15 minutes with a great sense of peace and calm at the shrine, just soaking in the atmosphere before stepping back into the real world where the next train arrives not two minutes later.



This truly was a special moment on a very special day and gave me a lesson that I sorely needed to learn, that sometimes acting on impulse can lead to amazing things.

 

[Wanderlust_tim]

For as long as I can remember I have always wanted to visit a World Expo. In my mind it was a wonderful opportunity for the nations of the world to come together, showcase their culture and showcase how they contribute to the theme of the Expo. This year it was 'Designing Future Society for our lives'.

Expo 2025 is being held on a manmade island in Osaka Bay and in its first contrast with the theme, the location will be apparently be transformed into a casino after the expo finishes later this year. This is going to be one big casino because the island is huge. The expo itself is built around the grand ring which towers above the countries exhibiting below. To complete the walk is approximately 2km and the diameter within is 615 metres which makes it well over three and half MCG's by length and over four MCG's by width.


Arriving in the sweltering heat, we're shocked by the sheer volume of people - tens of thousands are here and it makes getting into stands a difficult exercise. However we give it a good crack and manage to visit one big stand (Spain), a few small stands (Bangladesh, Latvia/Lithuania, Algeria) and almost all of the small stands in common areas (many African, Asian and European countries).

The sheer size and scale of the event means that it's geared to multiday attendees and the local Japanese market. Whilst I saw more western tourists than I have elsewhere, it was probably only 1 in every 500 guests.

Despite merely scratching the surface we got a good feel for the event and I learned some things along the way. I was particularly impressed by Bangladesh which melded key statistics with stories of its history and how that informs its approach to its future opportunities.


Latvia/Lithuania seemed to nail the brief best to me with 300 native plants displayed before highlighting how these are being used to shape medicines of the future.

Pakistan was interesting with a focus on pink salt and it's importance in Pakistan's history. It didn't really fit the brief, but it taught me something new.

The real highlights were the stands staffed by locals. The Montenegrin stand treated us like VIPs and invited us to Expo 2027 in Serbia. The Gabonese were great fun, encouraging me to try a raffia headdress (it didn't take much encouraging). Whilst the women running San Marino's stand were all too happy to have a chat, one of whom had even lived in Melbourne.


Many stands were visually beautiful from the outside, but the substance inside was lacking, suggesting it was either a missed brief, or the focus had been put into the wrong elements of the stand.



I'm glad we spent the day here, and I will remember two major things. Firstly, the queues (Saudi Arabia's was at least a two hour wait for entry, Italy wound up being four and a half hours, Kazakhstan which I really had hoped to see was 80 minutes). I hope the theme can be put to good use in improving the experience for 2027. I'd also love them to explore different pass types, such as a Disney fast pass style, or an international tourists pass that guarantees slots on some of the more popular pavilions.

Secondly, a comment my friend made summed up the experience and perhaps the world at large when he said to me 'that there are some incredible ideas in the world, it's just that the execution of them can really miss the mark'.