Back in the saddle: One week in Japan

Joined
Jan 30, 2016
Posts
452
After a five year international travel hiatus due to Covid and fatherhood, my best friend invited me to Japan for his 40th where he was going diving with hammerhead sharks. Coinciding with my own birthday I thought it was time to get back in the saddle and start overseas travel again. I somehow managed to secure classic rewards flights to Tokyo about four months out and we spent a week in Japan at the end of August.

The journey was as follows:
Days 1 & 2: Izu Peninsula (Diving and hiking)
Day 3: Hakone and transit to Osaka
Days 4 & 5: Osaka (World Expo and Hanshin Tigers baseball)
Day 6: Hiroshima
Day 7: Flight home

This is more of a destination report than a flight experience report but what follows will hopefully be a brief overview that may be useful for AFFers.
 
MEL-SYD-HND

Although direct flights were available, business was available on the overnight flight from Sydney - Haneda, so this was the way to go. A leisurely departure time of 4.15pm meant I could meet Mum and Dad for a pub lunch before they headed to the football for Western Bulldogs v Fremantle. We tried the Mail Exchange Hotel just opposite the skybus entrance and I was very surprised at how good the meal was. It will become a go to for pre-game meals in 2026. I could barely climb over my fish and chips, which was just as well as the lounge fare was miserable.

It's been a good number of years since I had been in a Qantas lounge and I shan't be in a hurry to repeat the experience. Melbourne was the usual array of toasted sandwich options and little else. At one point a staff member came out pushing two salad bowls on a trolley and people eagerly lined up behind her to get the fresh fare. I was left sitting there perhaps unfairly thinking that this might have been what it was like in the Soviet Union where people would join a line if they saw one in case it was something good (spoiler, it wasn't).

Easy flight up to Sydney as usual, transit on the bus to international and joined the heaving throng trying to get through security. Up to the international lounge where the fare was not much better than Melbourne domestic. One curry option, salads and you guessed it, toasted sandwiches!

Onto QF25 and this was finally the business experience I had imagined. Lovely staff who kindly explained how to set up the bed, a steak dinner with a lovely potato gratin and then miraculously for me, six hours of sleep! This is about five more than I usually get on an overnight flight. It turns out that using Qantas points for business class on an overnight flight was well worth it.

Managed to catch the cap of Mt Fuji out the window, before a smooth landing and then what felt like a walk past at least 80 JAL and ANA jets as I made my way to immigration. Long lines as Air France and American Airlines had beaten us in, but it all moved quickly and I had a first sticker in my new passport. I wonder how many more I will get over the coming ten years.
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Through immigration (I particularly loved the quirky stickers people had stuck all over the landing form desks), grabbed cash (which is always a relief when your card works that first time you try it overseas) and then off to the hotel Onsen for a few hours.

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Friends had convinced me that it would be worth the 4800 Yen and they were spot on. Outdoor hot pools, soda baths, cold plunges, saunas and a herbal steam room (which was my favourite). It was a great way to recharge after a long flight. Dressed and fresh, I wandered up to the observation deck to wait for my friend who was picking up the hire car.

Haneda is an amazing airport and the sheer volume of plane movements were mind blowing. It was great to see a Lufthansa 747-8, and a mind trip seeing a little Korean Air jet, given I am used to seeing the heavies on the long flight between Australia and Korea.

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My friend arrived, we grabbed a quick sandwich from 7/11 and we were on our way. Airport parking only 300 Yen! Next stop Izu Peninsula. Or at least that was the plan.
 
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The journey from Haneda was smooth, albeit traffic jams were de rigeur, as you would expect from the world's largest city. We did well but missed one exit, which meant an extra $23 in tolls, but as the GPS triumphantly informed us, shaved 8 minutes off the journey!

Japanese highways are different to Australia with no rest stops, so we pulled into Nagaziuma, found the first konbini we could and grabbed a sandwich. The poor cashier's eyes popped out of her head when we walked in, I don't think they get too many Australian tourists there! The Chicken egg Teriyaki sandwich gets a solid 9/10.

We had no idea what terrain we would encounter on our way to the Izu Peninsula, I assumed we would be skirting the mountains in front of us. Boy were we in for a surprise.
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Rather than heading through flatland we drove through winding mountains to reach Kawazu Seven Waterfalls.

The mountains are huge and the most beautifully lush green. The whole region has been formed by volcanic eruptions and left these amazing little mountains hundreds of metres high. Wasabi appears to be the local delicacy, we even passed a museum, but didn't stop this time.

As we approached Kawazu we both had our jaws drop at the sight in front of us. A circular bridge that looped around in front of us. We were both giggling like children as we went round and round.
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Onto Kawazu Waterfalls and this is just a gorgeous spot. The waterfalls are visited along a walk over a few kilometres. Formed by volcanic eruptions there are what I assume basalt columns that water has eroded over time.
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And so the day finishes in Izu-Inatori where our hotel is. Before that though we managed to catch a beautiful view as the sunset before we got into town.

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The hotel is lovely but very traditional, I have a pair of slippers which I have to wear inside which are at best three sizes too small. The Yukata comically so. That's ok though, we are still very welcome.

Dinner provided was a traditional Kaiseki which highlighted local ingredients. There was so much food! Sushi, sashimi, shabu shabu, tempura, a whole red emperor in soy sauce. I can barely move and will sleep well tonight.

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