Antarctica.

[drron]

When leaving Sandy Bay we went on a zodiac cruise to the point and a rockhopper penguin rookery-not nearly as impressive as the Royal rookery.

The water was incredibly clear-

Then back to the ship to get ready for dinner.That next.

 

[drron]

Our time at Macca has come to an end.I really enjoyed it.Our last view as we were leaving as the change had come through and there was no weay we would be able to do anything the next day.

As a consolation at dinner 2 of the pax at our table were 2 of the Macca rangers so a really interesting conversation but also an unexpected but in retrospect understandable desire of menu.Both really wanted a salad-they only get supplied with fresh food once a year and really do appreciate these ship visits.So the ranger sitting next to mrsdrron ordered the salad and fresh fruit-she offered to give him 2 of her lamb cutlets-you would have thought she offered him a million dollars!We then ordered extra fresh fruit plus chocolates which they took with them when they had to leave before the rest of us had finished-again I must say the staff on the Orion was fantastic-they knew what we were doing and happily went beyond with larger serving sizes.
So to Dinner-Mrsdrron started with the Quail breast on pumpkin puree and I started with a French style seafood soup.

We both had the lamb cutlets Greek style and mango Bavarois-

After dinner we were part of the winning Trivia team-based on 60s TV shows-mrsdrron was a standout star.By then it was 2330 and time for bed.The sea was becoming wilder,the wind blowing but we slept lik logs.
Next more tales from fellow pax.

 

[drron]

Now up to tuesday 11th January.Although I slept well after brekkie i laid down and went back to sleep.Awoke for lunch.Today lunch is a selection of salads and pastas.The seas and winds have been getting worse as the day goes on.however the swell is coming directly from behind so the ride is comfortable.
After lunch a few of us old fogeys were having a chat about our travel experiences.The best was from a fellow who was flying into Angola to try and come up with a solution to a problem Chevron was having with its offshore platforms.
As the flight was starting it's descent into Luanda the Captain came over the PA-Unfortunately we will be landing at Luanda in 10 minutes.I wish we weren';t as the airfield has come under machine gun fire.We do not have enough fuel to reach any alternate airport.We will be parking at the far end of the airfield and hoping their aim is bad.Those that still want to get off may-your luggage will be left beside the runway.We will be refueling and taking off as soon as we have enough fuel to reach Nairobi.
For those of you transitting to the Chevron oil Facility their plane will be landing as soon as we take off for immediate boarding.Now that would be an interesting transit-i wonder what the MCT was.
By dinner the swell was reaching 10 metres but still coming from behind.Still felt comfortable.Dinner once again a highlight-mrsdrron started with the black tiger prawns in garlic/lemon/herb butter.i had the cold smoked barramundi with horseradish cream and lemon/shallot and tomato salsa.We then had the veal tenderloin tips on a porcini sauce with veggies including purple carrot-tastes the same as the orange variety.We finished with pavlova with nectarine compote and blood orange sorbet.

Next-the seas get higher.

 

[drron]

The seas continue to increase.About 2300 the engine trips out as the propeller comes out of the water on top of a wave.Without power the stabilisers dont work so there is a lot of rock and rolling.During the night the Captain estimates the swell at10-15 metres.Certainly there were waves that broke over our balcony on Deck 5-only 1 deck above us!during the night one of the larger waves broke over the stern and forced open the rear door of the restaurant on Deck 3 so brekkie next morning is in the lounge.
By morning we are on the eastern side of Campbell Island.Protected from the swell but the wind is still howling.Not going to be a great landing.However at breakfast it is announced there will be no landing as the entrance to the harbour is narrow and with the wind and swell it would be too dangerous to enter.First some pics of ther seas the day before-remember the swell wasn't at it's maximum then but you can see the stern virtually going under as the waves approach.

next Campbell Island.

 

[drron]

We cruised up the coast of Campbell Island as there are alternate harbours but no go.There were 2 yachts sheltering from the weather-one decided to go north.I would not like to have been on that.After lunch it was decided to do a zodiac cruise along the coast-but with the wind howling,rain and sleet,as well as water being blown off the waves we decide not to go.Although most said they enjoyed it the pics we saw later brought back memories of our zodiac cruise off Bear Island in the Arctic-we were still glad we didn't go.
So some pics of the coast of Campbell island-

At the north tip of the Island the cliffs were covered with nesting albatross-

Next another change of plans.

 

[drron]

We remained anchored off Cambell Island overnight.We were told that it was possible we could make a stop at Stewart Island on the way back to Dunedin.Certainly there would have been time.However in the morning it was announced that because of the weather we would be heading straight for Dunedin.Afterwards in Dunedin mrsdrron and i were told by someone who could well have known that the real reason was that local guides would have to be paid at Stewart Island and there wasn't the money for this.
The seas were large on the Thursday,though not as bad as 2 days before and had moderated more on Friday.Anyway it was now back to Dunedin and 2 more days at sea.
Before that though there was another degustation dinner.
Started with the seared tuna and salmon in rice paper,then a duck pate-beautiful.

A cream of cauliflower soup with truffle oil the greens with avocado,tomato,walnut crumble and gorganzola dressing.Refreshed with a sparkling lemon and lime sorbet then we had the beef medallion with bug tail(there was a Coral Trout alternative).

Finished with a baked Citron tart and cheeses.Again very good quality food.

Next-back to Dunedin.

 

[drron]

Heading back to Dunedin there were good lectures on Mt.erebus and climate change-well balanced for a change.There was as usual a lot of bird life and when we made the NZ coast we were passed by a pod of probably 200 Hector's dolphins heading south in a feeding frenzy.A couple did accompany us for a short while.
The highlights however were the meals.on the last day we were able to have lunch out in the open on the back deck.First dinner on the 13th-prawns or lobster ravioli for entree and very tender pork loin for mains-

Then the expedition team getting a group photo.

But also starring in the crew variety show with a stirring rendition of I Still Call Antarctica Home.

next-a couple more food shots naturally and we reach Dunedin.

 

[drron]

First a couple of shots of our last lunch buffet.It included a roast turkey-

Then our final dinner.We are both suckers for soft shell crab.Then salmon and a seafood soup.

And of couse the bird life-

next-morning in dunedin.

 

[drron]

Late friday afternoon and we steamed back into Dunedin harbour.Around the Otago peninsula and its lighthouse-

A good view of the albatross sanctuary-

and the old wartime fortifications-

We become part of the attraction for a harbour cruise-

And great weather-plus an open bar make it a great entry-

Then Captain Mike gives his farewell-

So next is waking in Dunedin and disembarkation.

 

[drron]

The sunrise was magnificent.

We had done the Immigration formalities the night before and had had our large bags collected so a very laid back morning.leisurely brekkie then on to wharf at 0900 where our rental car was delivered.Dunedin car hire -this firm will even deliver to Port Chalmers which is a fair distance out of Dunedin and where we were initially going to dock.Off to the Farmers Market at the Railway Station-very popular.The fruit looked great but little taste-Tassie cherries and raspberries are much tastier.

Then to the Otago museum-they ask for a donation-I did but didn't see anyone else do it.A good way to spend an hour or two.recharge the batteries with a cappucino then a little retail therapy for mrsdrron-poor dear no shopping for nearly 3 weeks!Then we drive out to the Royal albatross rookery and have lunch there-good meat pies.Drove out along the shore and back along Highcliff road-some spectacular views but a narrow winding road in parts.
then checked out St Kilda and St Clair beaches before checking in at Bluestone on George-we had dropped our luggage off in the morning and it was in our room on arrival.Decided to just have fruit for dinner.But luxuriated in the lovely deep bath giving my knee a good soak in warm water-worked a treat.I was slowing down and the limp was much more pronounced.
Next-Y on NZ-shock,horror.

 

[drron]

As usual we start early for our NZ flight.This is our first NZ flight for over 10 years-still haven't forgiven them for Ansett.Hey if they haven't got over an underarm delivery 30 years ago I've got quite a few more years left to carry a grudge.We are driving into the airport as an NZ plane takes off but by the time we get into the terminal it is deserted.We are there at 0745 for a 0945 departure.So we go upstairs to the shops and food area.A few minutes later a couple of women arrive and open up a cafe so we have a cappucino and a cheese scone.Good view over the runway and cow paddock beyond.Then Captain Kirk arrives telling us that checkin is now open.
Go downstairs leaving our carryons with Captain Kirk,a good reason for this.Weigh our bags before fronting up at the desk-26 and 20kg.So a quick repack and on first attempt both come in at 23kg-amazing.Both get heavy labels.Allocated row 12-exit row-12E,F-seats 12A,12F are really good with no seat in front.
Going through security i am asked if i have a kindle and then asked to take it out.Mrsdrron's wasn't noticed-happened again at AKL.
NZ672 DUD-AKL.ETD-0945.ETA-1125
Actual TO-0940.Landed 1110.
Captain Kirk was on a QF J ticket DUD-AKL-LAX-DFW-1 PNR.This flight had a QF codeshare.He still had difficulty getting them to accept 2 bags and eventually got them checked through.
As to the flight-uneventful.Though in exit row bags did not have to be put in overheads.Loved the safety video with the All Blacks and granny doing a streak-though I wonder how those that think DJ is childish would think of this.Snack of chups or nut clusters.Get young kids to hand out lollies prior to landing.
Worst part-gate with no air bridge.Schlepped our bags to the International terminal-needed the exercise.Fortunately noticed before check in that liquid capsules not allowed in carryons so fish oil caps go into checked bags.First time i have noticed that.
Next-QF back to BNE.

 

[drron]

QF126 AKL-BNE.ETD-1555 ETA-1635
Actual pushback-1635.landed 1635.At gate 1643.
No problems using the premium QF checkin at AKL.Through the priority security lounge.Get Captain Kirk into the Flounge as well-attendants were very gracious about it.Mrsdrron wanted to leave a little before boarding to check out the shops on the way to the gate.Coming down from the lounge we ran into the couple from the next cabin going into the EK lounge.Arrived at the gate a couple of minutes before advertised boarding time.
But a pax is brought to the gate in a wheelchair by the paramrdics.A long wait until she is boarded.5 minutes later though she is taken off.Then announced there is a technical problem and the Captain is looking up the manual.Finally board nearly an hour late.
seats 4A,B-I of course score the B seat and decide I really dont like it.We are offered DVD players but the fellow in 4C is not "as you can see the monitor".He is not pleased as he had selected row4 to get the DVD player.Unfortunately for him we had already knocked it back otherwise I would have taken it and let him use it.Young Kiwi commuting to POM for work.
Meal is forgettable.A small bowl of stale wilted green leaves.Chicken ravioli or pork curry for mains.Frozen bun and no butter plus a Cadburys chocolate-well ate that.Went nicely with the Preece pinot grigio.Afterwards a choc covered ice cream.
After arrived at the gate in BNE had to wait a fair while whilst a pool of water is mopped up.A lot of mumbles of typical QF-WTF!.Our gate of course was the furthest from the Arrivals hall.first at Smart Gate and of course our bags were coming out at Carousel 1-the other side of the Arrivals Hall.Our bags were out by the time we got there.Straight to Customs and we had nothing to declare so had our Smart passes out-and we were the only ones going through-great use!
our driver was waiting and 90 minutes after reaching the gate we were home on the Sunny Coast.

 

[drron]

I will do a comparison of Antarctica via NZ/Australia or Argentina.Got a lot of good advice from Captain Kirk who works for Linblad and has done many Antarctic trips.There were others who have been Expedition crew out of South America.
Mainly however I will be comparing Orion with the Prince Albert 11 which cruises to Antarctica from Ushuaia.The two ships are comparable in size and comfort but there are enough differences to make a reccomendation.
However first I wish to dedicate this TR to my Mother-in-Law.She was an incredible woman who as you are aware reading this TR was admitted to hospital whilst we were in the Antarctic.She had had a large heart attack and was 93.As soon as we got home we were off to the hospital to see her.There were still problems but she did seem to improve before dying suddenly 1 week later.
Her life was different to most.Her mother ran Bridge classes for young women and did not have time for a child.So she was boarded out to her Grandfather who was a Professional card player.So she was then boarded out to various women.She spent some time with May Smith aka "botany"May.
Historic Houses Trust - Full Record
She was a dressmaker with a side business of cocaine distribution.A young girl with a doll-hollow inside was a perfect distribution system.She also picked up parcels from a Chinese restaurant in Campbell street which was then Sydney's Chinatown.She would carry things home in a large billy.She remembers well going to the basement which was an opium den.
She fortunately left Botany Mays prior to her arrest.She then lived on a property outside Bourke surviving by rabbitting.
At the age of 14 she went to work with the Ohio Cigar company in East Sydney-they used to handroll cigars using Cuban tobacco.That closed down and she went to work with Wills tobacco-her life became much more traditional from there.
I can honestly say I never had a cross word from my MIL.I will miss her.
So next my final thoughts and comparisons.

 

[kezsco]

Great post. Love the penguin pics. Sorry to read about the MIL.

And now you've got me hanging on the edge of my seat waiting for your "final thoughts and comparisons."

South America or NZ departure? That is the question....

 

[awilcockson]

South America or NZ departure? That is the question....

Which kidney to sell so I can fund one of these trips?

That's the question

 

[drron]

Sorry Iam being a bit tardy but this week working in the private sector-not nearly as much time for AFF!
Anyway first a comparison of the upper end ships-we went on the Orion out of Dunedin but Silverseas Prince Albert 11 goes out of Ushuaia.They are very similiar in set up and what they offer but there are differences and the main one is price.Like for like the PA11 is much cheaper.
On the Orion we had a Balcony suite-list price for 19 days-$34000.
On the PA11 a 17 day cruise out of Ushuaia in a Verandah suite is ~ $19000.And the 2 suites are exactly the same size.
Other differences-
On the PA11 you have a shower over the bath,Orion just a shower.
On the PA11 you get free standard alcohol,have to pay on Orion.
On the PA11 there are binoculars in the suite to use,may borrow wellies so dont have to lug them with you.these things not done on Orion.If you go to a Silver suite on the PA11 the room is twice the size of Orions balcony suite yet still slightly cheaper.you then get a walk in robe,separate bath and shower plus complimentary laundry.
The 1 extra on the Orion is a free DVD of the cruise pics-on PA11 this was $US250.
Both supply you with a parka(identical apart from logo).both have food included and no tipping.The crews are basically identical-sourced from same labour hire firm.Expedition staff are comparable.
The PA11 though is better organised and obviously Silverseas have more experience pampering DYKWIAs such as me.The expedition staff spread themselves out each meal so everyone gets a chance for a casual chat over a meal,on Orion they often have meals by themselves in lounge rather than restaurant.Restaurant also on PA11 is better organised.As are such places as the mud room.
So if luxury cruising can be done without loosing a kidney then I would definitely reccomend the PA11 over the Orion.
Next,and last-comparing the destinations.

 

[tgh]

This last post was the pointy bit of an excellent trip report for me.

I had wondered about the Orion and also the other parts of the Continent.

With limited years left , I think I will treasure the memories of our very successful trip on the PA11 last year and go see some other wild places.

I would really like to see South Georgia again and walk the walk .. but doubt it is going to happen.
For the rest , the endless ice and penguins , once was wonderful but is enough.

Thanks very much for another relevant and detailed report .. keep 'em comin '

ps .. everyone is different .. but the pretentious food on the PA11 became a little boring over the 17 nights , although the company and atmosphere was excellent. I'm not at all sure this crass aussie wants to take a penguin outfit to dine the nights away on the other SS ships. ( I believe the Spirit is deliberately less formal .... the time they are a changin' .. )

Cheers

 

[drron]

tgh thanks for that.I wonder though was it the food that was tedious or the fact that any cruise to Antarctica must end with the anticlimax of days at sea.On our Arctic cruise on the PA11 it was only 12 days and only an overnight to Tromso after our last excursion.The Orion was 19 days and finishing with ~ 4 sea days-I must admit to feeling a little let down with the meals at the end.
This sets the scene for my last post-Ushuaia or NZ/Australia for the Antarctic.
First-NZ/Aust.
Pros-Macquarie Island-truly amazing.
Scott/Shackelton/Mawson-the only way you can see this bit of history-the major reason I chose the Orion.
lots of ice-with climate change the amount of pack ice in the Ross Sea,Eastern antarctica is increasing.
Easier to get to starting point.

Cons-more sea days to get there and back.
_expensive.The Orion starts~$16000-but remember the cheapest cabin has the same itinerary,meals etc.Not much competition-Spirit of Enderby from NZ and Aurora-they use sister ships-Russian icebreakers but the Spirit cruises start from $NZ16000,Aurora $A11000.
-lots of ice-more likely to miss some highlights.

Now my thoughts on going from Ushuaia are obviously second hand but gleaned from talking to experienced Expedition crew from PA11,Linblad and a couple of free lancers.

Pros-Not as many sea days to get there.
-Less expensive-just a quick search revealed cruises for ~ $US5000.
-climate change.Pack ice around the Peninsula is decreasing-so much more likely to make landings.
-South Georgia.Every one who has been raves about it but the majority of cruises do not go there.I harbour a longing to get there.Our photographer was also blown away by the Falklands-raved about being able to take photos of penguins walking past grazing sheep.

Cons-much longer trip to get to cruise and back-but hey think of the FF points.

So i hope a few of you enjoyed this,I certainly did.Definitely a place for your bucket list.
And tgh-next long TR will feature a cruise on the SS Shadow-Tokyo to Anchorage by way of Russia and the Aleutians.And yes I am dreading the penguin suit-my old one has been in the wardrobe so long it has shrunk!

 

[tgh]

South Georgia is currently the top of the list in terms of best places on the planet.. ( previously it was the swiss alps).

Sadly I have also learned that the second time is never like the first (this observation carries across a lot of human stuff like relationships and s.. er anyway .. )

We have also looked at Japan> Alaska with SS.. depends on where #1 son is over the coming year . He is currently based in CH .. but maybe off to SF... the America's may beckon in lieu of the Adriatic...

When are you sailing ..

 

[tgh]

ps to the lat post ... and on the list of things that.. er irritate..

The current Interline offer ( travel agent staff) for the Shadow on 17 may11.. is 5107aud for a midships verandah suite..

The best price offered to the folks who actually keep the line afloat is .. .. is 8330 aud ... sheeesh ...

Add to that the extra cost of two non return flights and it is not so .. .....