A swing through South America

[Scarlett]

LPB-UYU OB304
B737-700
CP-2923
On time


B737-700 being loaded at LPB ready for the journey to Uyuni.

I'd drunk the first coffee because I didn't know if it would be allowed through security for the domestic flight (liquids are allowed domestic in Bolivia the same as Aus), so had enough time to get a second coffee in my travel mug for the flight. There was an unannounced gate change (5 to 3, so no big deal) then boarding was called. I was listed as Grupo 3 on the boarding pass but there seemed to just be a single queue that everyone joined, rather than an ordered by group process. With the very egalitarian all-Y layout, maybe they don't need to consider status pax. (though there was a 'Business' check in lane earlier so who knows?)

There was a short delay whilst bags were finalised, then doors closed and the aircraft was pushed back. It was then that a member of the crew announced that due to weight limitations some bags had been left behind. As there is currently only a single flight a day, this caused a bit of murmuring, especially amongst the clearly identified tourist pax which were probably 60-70% of the mix. Moreso because some may have been starting tours that day (the reason the flight is early AM into UYU) which would have been a major inconvenience without necessary baggage.


Arrival at UYU was met with a request to remain seated and alight by called rows. 1-10 first, then to 20 etc. As it was they opened the rear door and everyone near the back just headed out that way. I had checked FindMy whilst waiting and AirTags confirmed both my bags were at UYU.




No service of any kind was offered during the 50-minute flight.

 

[Scarlett]

I had chosen not to immediately start my tour of the Salar de Uyuni that day and instead booked the night at Casa de Sal, a salt hotel, that is, constructed of salt bricks. As I'd arrived at the hotel about 0900 they completely understandably didn't have my room ready. They estimated only an hour, so checked me in and then I paid the $10 or so for breakfast and went up to the dining room on the top floor.


Salt bricks!


View across Uyuni from the breakfast area

Going on outside was a pretty extensive street market. I couldn't see where the stalls ended in either direction.



Salt art in my allocated room. The beside table was a stack of salt bricks and the bed mattress was raised up on some too.



I spent the day updating part of this TR, doing some other work which was nearly due and trying to organise photos from Peru. Then went for a walk around the markets but didn't need anything. Final task was to repack into a smaller bag I'd be taking with me for the Salar de Uyuni 3-day tour, and then have the hotel store my suitcase and golf clubs whilst I was away for three days.

Uyuni as a town is sprawling, dusty, filled with numerous street dogs and from the parts I saw, mostly devoid of charm.

 

[Scarlett]

During the day I'd received a WhatsApp message from the tour company for the following day. Due to the state of emergency (SOE) and the decision by the Government to drop much of the subsidy on fuels the cost of gasoline had risen significantly. They wanted all the people on the tour to come to the office at 0930 on the morning of the tour to decide which course of action the group wanted to take. They suggested that maybe only a 2-day tour might be offered, as they were resorting to buying their fuel from the black market at further inflated rates.

To give you an idea, in their storefront they had a comparison that previously the price of gasoline was BOB3.something per litre. Officially it was now BOB7.something (about AUD1). At the meeting they advised they'd bought sufficient fuel for the 3-day tour but at BOB22 per litre. Each Landcruiser carried three large jerry cans on the roof for the 3-day tour.

The tour group I was with was 9 people (tourists) in two Landcruiser's. (plus two drivers and an English-speaking guide - each Cruiser had a back row of seats so could accommodate six pax) We all agreed to pay USD50 extra each to continue with the 3-day tour. I can neither confirm nor deny the fuel situation story, but we did see long lines at many petrol stations.

As additional background, Bolivia is in an SOE due to significant blockade activity earlier in the year, especially around La Paz. They had elected a new right-wing government late last year after the former socialists were pretty thoroughly trounced. One measure the new government had introduced was to wind back the heavy subsidies on fuels. Formerly, Bolivia exported significant quantities of gas and was able to afford the subsidies, but the budget situation had deteriorated markedly, with declining petro exports and something needed to change. Bolivia's credit rating was also poor and they couldn't access international financing. The blockades were mostly union movement organised as a form of civil disobedience and to try to bring down the new government and have their own socialists returned to power.

With the SOE life seemed pretty normal in La Paz and in Uyuni, except for the fuel situation and most businesses preferring cash. Many businesses accepted card no issues, but they preferred to be paid in Bolivianos cash. (USD was also indicated as accepted but generally with a pretty poor exchange rate) My Bankwest Zero Plat credit card worked fine everywhere with BOB expenses, although most terminals offered a dynamic currency conversion option for AUD or BOB and always noted to the merchant that I wanted to pay in BOB.

 

[Scarlett]

On the morning after the tour meeting, I did find some little bits of charm in the town. The meeting finished at 0945 and we'd be starting the tour at 1030, so I went for a walk to fill up my coffee mug (go to Llama Cafe - good coffee) and buy another bottle of water, as well as some toilet paper. I bought a two roll pack which was never opened during the tour as, subsequently I found out each Bano cost a couple of BOB to enter and that got you a small toilet paper bundle, plus the night stop accommodation also supplied toilet paper.

The tour company I used, Andes Salt Expeditions, has their office in the background of this street art statue.


Even the street dogs get looked after in Uyuni! There were a number of these kennels dotted all around the streets.


More street art. Heavily mining influenced.



I lucked in as I'd be sharing a car with three other tourists as well as the driver and guide sitting in the front. The other car had five tourists and their Spanish speaking driver. At each stop the cars always pulled up together and the guide spoke to the whole group.

 

[Scarlett]

First stop: the train graveyard.
As newer models were delivered over the years, older trains were just left here in the desert to rust. Additionally, when the mining companies (some nationalised) went bust, they left the trains here. There must have been 30-40 different engines and carriages which now serve as props for tourists for climbing on or selfies.



Our guide Juan doing his intro explanation to the group. Everywhere on this tour sunscreen, hats etc were vital.


Various trainy bits.







A single track that is still in use.


Our group consisted of:
A Polish couple who kept mostly to themselves.
A Brazilian couple who were initially reserved (not great with English) but became a fun part of the group.
An Austrian couple.
Then one each from Australia (me), UK, and the Philippines.
Our Filipina was definitely the extrovert of the group and she was the glue which linked the two cars' groups together.

All the others were in their 20's or early 30's (Brazilian couple), which left a significant age gap to me in my early 50's. (would you like me to take that photo of you... no I don't need one taken of me... the scenery is the attraction not me standing in front of it... no I'm not on Insta or... etc) Certainly no issues keeping up with them as I was probably fitter than about half and I know the value of being on time! Interesting were discussions about travel of course: I didn't mention I was doing much of this trip flying J whilst they were swapping stories about other tours, hostels and night buses.
I did get the feeling will the group and conversations that my generation really has had the absolute best opportunities in life and that we may well have got those by screwing over future generations.

Next to the trains was a small chained off metalwork art installation area.

 

[Scarlett]

Then it was 20 minutes north to Colchani for a quick salt workings tour whilst the drivers and the stopping point hosts set up lunch for us.

A much older salt building with our Cruiser (black) and another tours (maroon) in front.


Drying salt for crushing, plus an example brick.


Some of the products created.


After lunch it was time to get out onto the salt flats!

 

[JohnM]

Thanks - bringing back great memories.