Well, we can cross that one off the list.
Just returned from a wonderful trip to Tromsø and had the best of luck with a pre-booked guide. I booked our car/guide months before arriving... lucky for us the nights were clear, although nothing visible from Tromsø, and we were able to drive to the coast (1hr) rather than 3/4hrs into Finland.
Got to see the lights, enjoyed a campfire on the beach in -19C and listened to whales breathing whist the lights were dancing - an incredible experience!
My tip - unless you have the camera equipment and knowledge to make the settings - hire a guide. I'd also head away from town regardless of conditions as you really need to get away from the light pollution.
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