Pardon the interruption, where were we? Oh right.... Of to Kyoto
While Tokyo was fun and interesting, I was very much looking forward to making the trip south to calmer Kyoto onboard the Shinkansen Takaido line and explore what the Kansai region of Japan had to offer.
The fastest and most convenient way to get to Kyoto from Tokyo is via Shinkansen, even the Hikari train that stops a few times gets to Kyoto in under 3 hours. Flying is also an option but its more expensive and between having to arrive early at an airport and all that faff actually takes longer all together.
Shinagawa station was the closest Shinkansen station to my hotel so I made my way there via the metro which was not as challenging as I thought with two suitcases. At Shinagawa and in fact most stations will find that Shinkansen platforms are seperate to other JR trains on dedicated platforms. After you go through the ticket gates you will find a small number of food outlets selling mainly to go Bento Boxes and Japanese sweet treats (my lunch choice below, a pork katsu sando with mustard yum). I was surprised not to see a 7/11 or a Lawson here or at other Shin stations. You will also notice in summer its very hot here so I don't recommend you arrive very early as there is no where cool to stand.
Shinkansen services are frequent and trains don't ordinarily stop for a very long time, trains are also very long. Most trains have 16 cars with some usually dedicated to non reserved seats but most being reserved cars. Its a good idea to make your way down the platform to the relevantly marked area to enter your car, this will be listed on your seat reservation. In my case I booked the last row in car 16 so I had a fair walk down the platform.
For those with luggage, you can fit small and medium suitcases in the rack above the seats however extra large cases need to be stores behind the last row of seats and will only be available if you booked those seats in advance.
While the Shinkansen is an engineering marvel the train cars are rather boring, seats are laid out in a 2-3 layout and are very narrow. Going south you should sit on the right side to see mount Fuji on a good day.
Upon arriving in Kyoto I made my way from the Shinkansen tracks to the subway, my hotel was right by Karasuma Oike station on the Karasuma line.
My hotel
Hotel Gimmond Kyoto
I stayed at the 3 star Hotel Gimmond Kyoto about 5 minutes walk from the subway station entrance at Karasuma Oike station. The hotel was very affordable at $90 a night for a double room with single occupancy, the rate didn't include breakfast.
The hotel is on the older side but very typical of Japan its maintained really well and very clean. The room was slightly bigger than my APA hotel in Tokyo and featured a closet, desk area with TV and mini fridge, double bed and of course a bathroom with shower tub. The aircon was great and could be controlled from a small panel next to the bed, as this is an older place it remains on when you leave the room so be sure to turn it off when you leave for the day.
The front desk was staffed 24/7 which it needs to be as they wont allow you to remove your key from the building. When leaving, you drop it off at the front desk and upon returning you show a little card with your room details to collect your key. This system works but I have to say it feels a little unnecessary.
The hotel features two restaurants, one Italian and classic Japanese. The Italian restaurant is also open for breakfast but I didn't eat there instead favoured a small french bakery down the road called Pauls (more on that later).
Things to do in Kyoto
River walk and Kyoto handicraft centre
Kyoto is a stunning city, I started my time off with what I can only describe as a romantic stroll for one down the Kyoto River. At one point in the river when the tide is low enough there are stepping stones across the river, many people relaxed here dipping their feet in the refreshing river water and just enjoying the setting. I joined in and sat here for a little while, Kyoto sure felt different compared to Tokyo. Continuing on the other side of the river I eventually made my way back to civilisation and wondered until I found the Kyoto Handicraft Centre.
These two stores (west and east) are next to one another and are a great place to go in the search of some lovely handmade souvenirs that are a bit more special than your average touristy market. While the first store (west) features art and swords at eye watering prices the second store (east) across several levels has plenty to find at reasonable prices.
I picket up a handmade lacquered spinning top which now lives next to our lacquered lady with egg shells from our trip to Saigon and a lovely traditional wood work Yosegi box. In total I spent about $190AUD on both items.
Temples, Shrines, Palaces and the Kyoto tower
Kyoto is the old capital of Japan and with that comes a whole list of temples, shrines, castles and cultural icons to visit which Instagram is obsessed with. In my few days here I made time for the Fushimi Inari-Taisha shrine, Kinkaku-ji temple and the Kyoto imperial palace and gardens.
I had set my self an unnecessary and stupid goal of hiking to the top of
Mount Inari which the famous Inari shrine is named after. The internet rightly encourages you to get to the shrine early to avoid crowds so I made by way to the shrine around 7am and found it nice and quiet. The shrine its self though isn't what attracts people but the seemingly endless orange Tori gates following the treck to the top of the mountains.
The hike is described as moderate and short with some stairs, in June however I heavily disagree with this description. 45 minutes into the hike and in fear of having a shrine built for me at my final resting place on the mountain, I decided to give up and make my way back to the base of the mountain in search of some air-conditioning. You of course don't have to hike the mountain to see the gates but if you are keen to hike I'd encourage you to do so on a day with lower humidity and temp.
On a seperate day I took the bus to
Kinkaku-Ji, the famous golden pavilion overlooking a large pond and forest. Unlike the Inari shrine this is a venue where you have to pay an entry fee of 500 yen per person. You follow a one way path around the pond and up a small hill so you get many different perspectives of the view. The opening hours are 9am-5pm with gates closing at 4:30pm and I got here around 4pm in the hopes to have fewer people to compete with and less glaring sun.
This is a location where lots of tour buses stop so it can be very busy and not at all zen like. I didn't have to compete with too many people but there were a number of school tours and a few tourists buses still there. While the pavilion and grounds are stunning the copious amount of people and lack of other things to do mean I probably only spent about 30 or so minutes here.
You can also spot some very large koi fish in the pond, I recommend wearing polarised sunglasses, its makes them easier to spot in the murky water. On my way out I stopped in the gift shop and purchased a slice of frozen pineapple on a stick, which was a great treat!
I did also stop into the imperial palace and gardens but completely failed to take any photos. Its a nice place to wonder but not as impressive as what I had pictured but that was the architecture of the era. You can do tours here in Japanese and English but I just walked and took in the site. Entry is free and it would be a stunning place in autumn with all the beautiful trees, note the site is closed on Mondays.
Nidec Kyoto tower
If you want to get a good view of the whole city you should check out the Nidec Kyoto tower observation deck. 100 meters above the ground this is the highest viewing platform in the city and you can see several key sites from here. Admission is 900 yen and can be purchased online or at a booth on the ground level of the shopping centre in the tower.
Once you have your ticket you are directed to the 11th floor where the dedicated platform elevators are located. Once you have made it to the top you will find a small and slightly aged 360 observation deck with free stationary binoculars dotted across the place to zoom in on the view.
Its a small space and you can't help but notice the tower has seen better days butt hen again as someone who is afraid of heights maybe I was just looking for excuses to get back in that elevator. The view at sunset here is stunning and despite my fears I would recommend it.
Theres lots more to do and see in Kyoto and should I find an opportunity to visit again I would take more time out to explore this city.
The next post is all about coffee and food...