10 day Japan adventure - Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka and Hiroshima

Yes. This happened for us in Kyoto from Osaka but we didn't correct it as We didn't realise as the gate had opened but strangely. We then caught a local train at Kyoto to get to hotel. When he tried to exit the local train he couldn't. Spoke to the transit person who wasn't the least helpful as it was a JR train exit but it was her attitude about it. So we had to pay for the 'failed' trip to local station, then pay to go back to Kyoto station, get help again which was done immediately then pay to return on the local train.
Yes I had this in Kyoto also, ended up buying a day pass to get around as I had to go back to the main station to get the issue fixed. Very odd but I guess a side effect of not one company owning all the systems.
 
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Tokyo, where to stay and what do to pt 1

Tokyo is a massive city, in fact its the largest city in the world by population. This means theres plenty of choices of where to stay at over 4000 Hotels. The easiest way I found to picture Tokyo is by breaking it down into "neighbourhoods", some of the most well known include Shinjuku, Shibuya, Ginza, Akihabara and Asakusa but theres also some less known names worth checking out. I found the below map by Tara O'Reilly really helpful to picture this:

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Each "neighbourhood" offers something a little different, Akihabara is famous for being nerd central with lots of gaming shops but if your looking for great nightlife, Shinjuku and Shibuya should be on your list. If you're looking for affordable but well connected spots then Asakusa is the place to stay, which is also where I ended up staying.

For me Asakusa was a good mixture of things, there was a bit of culture with the nearby Senso-Ji temple, shopping areas just west of the temple, lots of cafe's and restaurants, two metro lines connecting seamlessly to the airport and the rest of Tokyo. But most importantly of all, I managed to get a hotel for roughly $80-90 a night which was neat and clean and right next to a subway entrance.

APA Hotel 285 Asakusa Ekimae

When coming to Japan you will find APA hotels are almost as common as 7/11 convenience stores. Its a large chain that operates over 350 hotels across the country focused on business clients at affordable prices.

Theres a couple elephants in the room with APA as I later discovered including controversies arounds its owners far right politics and cost cutting during construction leaving some 30% of their hotels allegedly not earthquake secure. So take that into consideration when making a booking.

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Hotel 285 is one of several APA hotels in the neighbourhood, I liked this location as it was right next to an entrance to the Asakusa subway line which connects you to the airport as well as Shinagawa station where Shinkansen services depart from. For those with luggage, the elevator entrance to the station is conveniently right across the road.

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I booked a single room which featured a double bed, desk and chair, bathroom and a large TV screen but not much else. It had a very good aircon system which was needed in the heat as well as a frosted window.

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I paid $250 for three nights here via Booking.com and would say it was good value, I ended up spending little time in my room other than sleeping and a daily cool down between all the activities.

The hotel was neat and clean and I was able to check in two hours early for an additional $20 paid on the day. APA does cost cut so you won't have your room made up everyday but simply a bag of towels delivered to your room each day but this didn't bother me very much.

What to do in Tokyo
As said Tokyo is massive and the to do list is equally overwhelming, you could spend a week here easy. Theres lots of choice and some very well known activities. People with kids (or adults who still identify as kids) will have Disneyland and Universal Studios on their list while others will have the Studio Gibli museum on their list or the outer fish markets.

Almost all of the above as I mentioned in my tips post require some form of advance ticket purchase and are in hot demand. For instance two weeks out the tickets to the Studio Gibli museum were sold out.

Knowing I only had three days I focused on a few things including checking out cultural sites, doing some shopping, going to TeamLab Tokyo and eating my way through the countless restaurants across the city.

Meiji Jingu & Harajuku

The shrine dedicated to the spirits of Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken is located in a large forest bordering Harajuku with the entrance being right by Harajuku station. The parks opening hours differ year round but its commonly open from sunrise to sunset with admission being free. At the entrances of the first you will find large Torii Gates and along the pathways you find various other attractions including the yearly sake barrel offering to the shrine and a number of french wine barrels which are a gift from France and serve as a cultural connector between the two countries.

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This was my first stop in Tokyo after arriving and worked well as it was nice and quiet early in the morning, locals use the park to go for walks and runs but also to pray at the shrine. Its very peaceful and serene, at the northern end of the park there is an area covered in grass where you can sit and relax, have a picnic or sunbathe, but a park officer will tell you off for undressing as I witnessed while I was there.

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You can also seek your fortune at the shrine and purchase amulets or omamori from 9am onwards, this is also roughly the time that the tours start to arrive which had the sudden effect of making this location far less calm and serene.

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As I exited the park I made by may to Harajuku which is well known for its animal cafes and Japanese street fashion, you'll also find Takeshita street here. I sat in a Starbucks while I waited for stores to open and the place to come alive. Here you will also find Uniqlo's T-shirt printing studio where you can have your own specialised t-shirt prints made.

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Takeshita st is famous for many things and in my opinion is somewhat over rated, my highlight was finding this capsule machine store. You will find these machines all over Japan where you throw 300-500 yen into the machine to be surprised with a small plastic souvenir. I may have spent a few too many yen here. Woops

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Following this I enjoyed lunch at Gyukatsu Motomura which is a chain here in Japan serving fried beef steak which you cook to completion at your table with many sides. This dish and drink cost me about 2600 Yen or about $30 which I thought was good value for the quantity of food.

Senso-Ji Temple and Markets

Located in Asakusa this temple is Tokyos oldest taking back to the year 628. While the temple can be accessed from several ways most commonly you'll find your self walking through the shopping street called Nakamise, here you will find permanent markets open from about 10am-5pm selling all things a tourist may or may not need. Many restaurants also spill out on either side of this street, at the end you will find a primary school on the left and the temple dead ahead.

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A great place to read your fortune, buy omamori or attend a festival if one happens to be on at the time your visiting. Senso-ji remains one of the most visited religious sites in the world and similar to the Meiji shrine many come to pray to and worship the goddess this shrine was built for.

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The complex is fairly busy even by Tokyo's standards but I found it calms down after about 7-8pm and in summer you can enjoy the sunset here with a drink from a vending machine or a few desert snacks from the markets.

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As Asakusa is a hive of activity so you will find many great eateries here, I enjoyed what turned out to be another Japanese chain called "Yakiniku Like" where they serve Japanese BBQ for you to cook at your station similar to Korean BBQ. You can pick your cuts of meat and various sides and drinks. Again 2800 yen gets you several meat options, rice, edamame, lettuce and a drink.

10/10 would recommend.

Part two of Tokyo activities incoming....
 
Tokyo what to do, part 2

If you like coffee you will have a good time in Tokyo especially around Asakusa. Tokyo is filled with great coffee roasters and coffee shops, you could spend several days on a cafe crawl so long as you start around 10am and expect to finish around 6pm as those are the operating hours of most cafe's. It seems standard for cafe's to serve a selection of coffee hot and iced and some sweet treats, I didn't find very many that served hot cafe food like at home.

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For those who are looking for something that opens a little earlier (8am) and serves a hot breakfast I can recommend Fuglen in Asakusa, a Norwegian inspired cafe serving coffee, pastries and a selection of sweet and savoury waffle dishes. In the evening you can also enjoy a coughtail or two as the cafe is open till 9pm weeknights and on the weekend till 11pm.

If you enjoy all things chocolate I can highly recommend stopping by Dandelion Chocolate Factory and Cafe in Kuramea and check out their factory before having a hot or iced chocolate and a little sweet treat, they also serve a great iced cold brew.

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Also in Kuramea (which is quickly becoming a trendy cafe spot) I found Coffee Nova which has a large coffee bean selection from across the globe and serve a unique coffee jelly with ice cream which is a great cool down treat on a hot summers day. The cafe is just down the road of the insta famous Kuramea shrine which while rather understated featured several stunning cherry trees which often are some of the first to blossom in the spring season across Tokyo.

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While I was here in June, the blossoms had of course already gone but its still a nice spot to check out and see the statue of a dog who supposedly prayed to become human and eventually did. I forgot to take a photo but you can see the below photo from Kaori Square Feet's blog.

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What you'll find across Asakusa and surrounding neighbourhoods is that the best spots are often down a narrow street, away from all the hustle and bustle, in fact this is really common across Japan. Down a random road I walked to find a postoffice I found Kaya Asakusa - Kimono and Pottery.

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A cute little shop with even cuter owners selling a variety of pottery including vintage tea sets and a whole range of traditional Japanese clothing including some very affordable secondhand Kimonos. The owners talked me through the clothing, how its worn and the methods of fabrication, they explained that the word Kimono simply refers to the long robe with wide sleeves which you would wear with a belt (obi), they had several on sale with cotton pieces being cheaper than traditional silk ones. Also for sale were Haori, which you are more likely to see people wear in more modern clothing, this is the wide sleeved shorter jacket you wear over a Kimono in colder months.

Not that I had this on my shopping list but I ended up picking up a stunning pre-loved cotton Kimono for 1100 Yen which I now swish around my house with reminding all who see that I've recently been to Japan.

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However if walking down random roads is not really your thing I have other options for you, including another Insta favourite: teamLab Planets Tokyo!

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teamLab is an art collective which has been around Tokyo since 1998, in 2018 the group opened the immersive art space in Koto City east of Ginza. Divided into four areas the site is meant to "immerse their entire bodies in the bast artworks", traversing one of the four sections barefoot while contributing to the art in another this big shed in the middle of no where has taken the internet by storm. Many of the exhibits are very social media friendly and adult and kids alike get to be in the art rather than just look at it.

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Accessible via public transport it took a few changes of subway and monorail lines to get there, alternatively there is also a bus from Ginza for an extra fee. You have to book tickets in advance and I recommend you do so you can pick a time slot that works for you. Tickets for adults cost between 3800 and 4400 yen depending on time of day. I also recommend you wear shorts (not skirts as theres a room with mirrored floors) and shoes you can easily take off.

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The whole activity took me about 2 hours but getting there and a back took another hour and a half so its a fairly solid half day activity. On the way back I also stopped by the famous Shibuya Scramble and surrounding shopping precinct which I have to say is far less impressive during the day. You can find lots of restaurants here but its all a bit overwhelming, I ended up enjoying a bowl of Ramen at Japans largest Ramen chain Ichiran which was very reasonably priced at 1100 yen.

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After this I collected my JR pass at Shibuya Station (which is manic FYI) and headed back to the hotel to have a siesta, not before walking past the famous Hachiko statue which had a line roughly 50 people long to take a photo with the dog famous for waiting for his owner at Shibuya station even after her death. Theres a great movie about this story called "Hachi: a dogs tale" in case you need to release your tear ducts.

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On my last night I also checked out Akihabara on the hunt for some unique Nintendo 3DS games for my partner at home. Akihabara is the neighbourhood with the inner tech nerd in mind with its central shopping street called Akihabara Electric Town. I was very overwhelmed by it all hence the stock photo but I have to say again like Shibuya this place is picture perfect in the evening, this is despite many of the shops you want to check out closing fairly early between 7-8pm.

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Theres loads of electronics shops here such as the famous Camera shop but also stores that sell endless console games including many sought after Japanese exclusive Nintendo games. My pro tip when looking at games, ensure they aren't region locked aka a console from Aus can play the game. This is another place where the google translate app comes in handy as all the merchandise on offer was in Japanese (who'd have thought). I also stopped into a Don Quijote store (nothing to do with the similarly named novel) which is a chain of cheap nick nack stores that sell souvenirs as well as snacks and lots of skin care. I purchased the below fantastically cute samurai corgi tote to carry my purchases, you have to lean into the cutesy animal character obsession the Japanese have.

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I also spend a few hours on my last day in Tokyo on the hunt for some ceramics and must admit didn't have very much luck finding things I liked. While theres loads of shops selling ceramics I found much of the styles are what I'd consider a bit old fashioned, things I'd expect in my grandma's kitchen. I did find a couple lovely things at a store in Asakusa called Yamakichi, they had many reasonably priced items but most of the store lent to the expensive side of things. This is also where I heard an american couple ask the shop keeper if he had "more Japanese things, you know with the characters"...

Another store thats mentioned a lot online which I travelled to Ginza for is Takumi but the selection was small and not really my style and again fairly expensive. But that also applied to all of Ginza which seems to be the home of all the big expensive brands.

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That sums up my activities across three days in Tokyo, while you could fill a week easily in this city I found three days was a great taste before I needed to escape the crazy a little and head south to Kyoto which was far more my pace and vibe.
 
That sums up my activities across three days in Tokyo, while you could fill a week easily in this city I found three days was a great taste before I needed to escape the crazy a little and head south to Kyoto which was far more my pace and vibe.
This is such terrific info for Tokyo/ Japan newbies and well presented in easy-to-digest chunks.
Now looking forward to Kyoto.
Thanks so much!
 
Agree re Suica card. Most people do it the wrong way around. Add the transit card first. Then download the app. That’s the right order. Language is never an issue then.

You don’t even really need to download the app at all if you downloaded the transit card.

But the app is handy if you’re going to buy bullet train tickets online via smartex as the app displays your Suica ID which you use to add to your bullet train ticket and then you can tap through the gates to board a bullet train - again without going near a ticket machine.

I downloaded the tourist Suica which said it was only useful for the Tohoku, Hokouriku and Joetsu lines (Have only just recently read that in the last 2 minutes). I used the Tokkaido line though. I did download the local Suica app. Haven't looked at it and only just noted now it's in Japanese. I haven't needed it.

Booking Shinkansen via Klook and using the QR code seems easiest. Just make sure you choose the right date, the right stops, the right train etc. No need to visit any ticket machine or office. Just scan and done. I linked my Welcome Suica card to the smart ex website previously. Thought I could just scan my Suica card but didn't work likely due to it being the Tokkaido line. Then bought via the smart ex website thinking it would then allow me to just use my tourist Suica card but had to go to ticket machine to get a physical ticket to then use through the departure gates.

I could use a translation app over the local Suica app but can't tell if there are limitiations on which lines you can use like the welcome tourist Suica card. I'll need to do some checking on the local Suica card differences but I haven't needed so far.
 

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