Peru & Ecuador. Machu Picchu and a Galapagos cruise with a side of southern USA

Day 8

Waking up in a stupor we went to breakfast. Asking our hosts if the noises in the night were normal, the answer was Si. Well, that’s not good.
Breakfast was included and was served in a small alcove on the ground floor. With 8 seats and e tables I guess they are working on not everyone arriving at once.

Options were tea and coffee, fruit salad and then 3 egg choices; fried, scrambled or omelette. Toppings could be cheese, tomato and ham. Not being a fan of the local Jamon I opted out. Juice choices were orange, pineapple or papaya.
The fruit salad turned up in a bowl and had papaya, pineapple, watermelon and strawberries. The scrambled eggs looked more egg than eggs but they were well cooked and tasty. Mrs Macca is not an eggs and bacon fan at breakfast so they knocked up a plate of tomato and avocado for her. Also included were 2 types of bread. 2 croissants, or a variation of them, and a larger flat white bun.
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Once done, we trudged over to the Plaza de Armas to meet our walking tour guide, who we were also going to pay for the Macupicchu tour guide. Plenty of people about along with hawkers and police who whistled at said hawkers to love them along, as hawking is not allowed. But tolerated. It’s s quite annoying, they can be very persistent all selling the same trinkets or tours. What I have found with Perú is that they tend to speak softly even when trying to flog you something. Plus they only speak Spanish so you don’t know what they are saying.
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The walking tour took us through the square to an old map showing the division of ‘power’. Then along some streets with examples of Inca building in stone, which were coughised by the Spanish and had Spanish style building built on the foundations. It’s quite common to see this and it’s an interesting mix of architecture. The churches tend to be all Spanish as they demolished the Inca temples and built new, although the church that is part of Qurikancha does use the Inca base.
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Then we headed towards the San Blas area which is happening. Mainly for tourists as there are multiple shops, vendors and things targeted at the likes of us. Such and example was in a small lane with a regular shop, where the guide had us stop and attempt to pick out a depiction of a Lama and a serpent in the stone work. Based on the fact that most guides have stated they really do not have much fact about the Inca story, I reckon late one night the shop keeper was bored and looking aimlessly at the wall and thought he saw these animals, and thence made up a poster with the stones outlining these animals and has built himself up a nice little earner. The kicker here was we were given a free little toy Lama. No obligation. And later in the walk we saw the same toys for sale at 7 for 5 Sols. That old lady in Ollantaytambo we bought the one for 10 Sols yesterday? She’s just cut another notch in her handbag strap.

Next stop our guide asked if we liked cheese. The consensus was well yes we do, so off we went to an organic cafe where we were served quite a tasty Hors d'oeuvres with cheese and vegetables. For nothing. On May Day which is a public holiday and we were the only people in the place. There must be some good tip coming.

The tour had a mix of people but the common thread was hiking, with at least half of them doing the Inca trail or the Salkantay trek, both of which are 4 and 5 days walk. When we got to the steep street going up to San Blas 2 German girls just went hah and started power walking. Up the hill. And left us in their dust. Meanwhile I had 2 stops to catch my breath. But others did too.
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At the top we had pictures of the fountain, which was running and a bit of a treat to be doing so, and then picture opportunities for nearly the entire city of Cusco.
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With that the tour was finished. It was a good tour that gave a lot of background to the city and we have found across the world the ‘free’ tours are probably the best option. Of course nothing is free and we tipped our man 40 Sol.

This afternoon we had booked a private tour at an animal rescue sanctuary called Cochahuasi Animal Sanctuary. The cost was 199 Sol or $79USD which included collection and return to our hotel.

As the walking your finished at 12:30 we had an hour or so to kill so we went looking for some local food. Nothing really stood out as value, the reason we found out the next day, but we spotted a little cafe on the way back so stopped in. A hamburger and fries for me, chicken sandwich for her and all at the cost of 32 Sol.
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Service was quick but my burger had somehow been deconstructed and lost its’ bun. The sandwhich was big but the bread was stale. Maybe this is a thing in Perú.
Both had flavour and filled us.
We also stopped in at a chemist to seek some more altitude sickness medication. Google translate is a wonderfull thing as pointing to the large poster on the door of the same stuff we initially got, I asked electronically if there was a chemical solution. So came the reply and 2 boxes were placed on the counter. 1 each every 12 hours would see me right our man said. At the bargain price of 2.50 Sol per tablet in a strip of 10. The same stuff we bought as a box in Lima was now sold per tablet at 2.50 Sol per tablet too.
So I stumped up 40 Sol, took my 20 tablets and hoped for the best.

Back at the hotel we went out front at 5 to 2 to find the car had just arrived.

A drive through the ‘burbs and into the hinterland saw us watching Cusco-ians at play at a park. People everywhere, wood fires burning, games being played and music all over. The road was also a goat track which seemed strange as it turned out to be the main road to the attractions out this way.

It started to rain as we arrived but these little black ducks are prepared and had our lightweight rain jackets to hand.

Once inside there was a bit of confusion; the guy said 25 Sol for the 2 of us. I said who pays the driver? That stuffed the game plan and phone calls were made. Originally I was told Mario would collect us and we could pay by card. Our driver was Tito and had no card machine. It transpires that Mario was the boss and he had elected to take today off. Hmmm. I had also forgotten we had booked the special your as it also included a donation to keep the place running.

So, we ended up cutting into our small stash of Sol to pay 199 for the special tour. The ‘special’ tour was kinda not. We got to hand feed some Macaws, have the door opened on the cage of a Toucan but no fingers out as they would be eaten, fed some Alpaca and Lama by hand, go into the Condor cage and picture one without fencing wire in front of it, and hear the story of a monkey and macaw that were pets in the same house and arrived there after the Police busted the owners. Others just doing the visit didn’t get the background to the animal arrival, which largely was poaching or private pets being confiscated. So, we did a good deed and were happy for it.
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On the way back our driver showed us some sights and explained in very broken English all about the valley and how it was organic. It also only supplied the district of Pisac which is some while away from Cusco and there was a boundary. We also stopped at other view points where he described what we were seeing and took some happy snaps of us. Pretty good value adding and we chucked 5 Sol his way.

Back at the hotel just before 5pm we charged phones, backed up photos onto a portable hard drive and then went seeking sustenance. We had passed a chicken joint which was full of locals, so we wandered in there just on 6pm.
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They had charcoal cooked chicken which was in full view in the main seating area. 1/4 chicken and chips was 25 Sol, and included a side salad and some dressings. They also had a gourmet meal with a lot of different dishes. Whilst She took the 1/4 chook deal, I was smarter than that. I decided to go gourmet, probably because of what MrsMacca had the night before, so settled on chicken Diablo which was chicken pieces in a spicy sauce with rice and salad.

It took about 15 minutes to deliver mainly due to my meal, as the chicken ‘n’ chips were being sent out by the handful by the minute.

When it arrived mine looked good and was good too. There were about 5 pieces of breast and they were very tender. The sauce was quite rich but had a creamy spiced kick to it.
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The 1/4 was a leg piece and was quite big. It had a nice flavour on the skin of wood (but not bushfire) and was not quite as tender. The chips were ok, they had been sitting too long and had gone limp.
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A couple of local beers at 12 Sols each finished the deal.

Back to Creaky Towers and into bed.

But again, loud doof doof music was present. There must be a nightclub or something nearby, or it could be a shop. In this area there are multiple barber shops, and they are always busy. Some of them have music playing loudly and some have speakers out to the street. I’m an advocate of its it’s too loud your too old so I think I am getting older as its starting to grate.

Anyway, I took a couple of sleep pills from a herbal shop to see if it would help. They did somewhat, but I think the effect of the altitude pills wear wearing off as I spent the night desperate for breath. I had to breathe through my mouth and really do some deep breathing. It’s a strange feeling, like you’ve just done strenuous exercise but without the pain and sweat. Between the doof doof, the breathing and then some sort of truck doing something truck like and loud in the street I didn’t get much sleep
 
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Sorry to hear about the noise and altitude sickness.

Have come within cuy of a nice meal? :)
The meals in the main are OK, but not the foody gourmet delight we’ve been told to expect. They have flavour and variety, especially the sauces.
If we were up to paying 100 Sol per meal each I’m sure we’d get good stuff but our financial statement won’t support that level of spending.
 
Day 9.

Sleep deprived we awoke about 7am to the sounds of the city.
It was then that I found out that I actually wasn’t smarter than everyone else as my chicken Diablo from last night exited the chat faster than it joined it. Great.
But I felt better without a headache.

Breakfast again was the same choices, but today we requested no papaya in the fruit and I had an omelette. Today we were joined by 2 American girls and then an American couple. The desk guy did say they were fully booked when I tried to get a room change the day before so I guess this is true.

Opting for coca tea today instead of the decent coffee.

The black tea MrsMacca ordered came in a pot but my cocoa tea was poured from a pot which was taken away. Strange. And no refill was offered.

Today we had booked a city tour which wasn’t of the city but of the main attractions around Cusco: Sasqaywaman (say it sexy woman with an accent), Tambomachay, Puka Pakara, Q’enqo and Qurikancha. All of them are out of the city except for Qurikancha which is in the centre of town and is built on Inca foundations.

All the historic sites are charged for and you need a “Touristo Boleto” to access them. 2 options are available - 70 Sol for one day and 4 or 5 sites, or 130 Sol for 10 days and all sites. We bought the 130 ticket back in Ollantaytambo so we’re good there.

The meeting point was at the fountain in the main square at 9am and so it was we met up with 12 people to start. 2 American couples, a family of four from Canada, a young guy from Germany, a bloke from Hong Kong, a Spanish speaking couple from somewhere and a couple others. As the bus was parked away from the centre a few minutes walk had apps boarding a new Mercedes Benz mini bus which was quite nice. USB ports, reading lights, nice seats and air con.
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A couple of minutes out of town we picked up a young American couple and our group was complete.

Our guide was local native who spoke the local language, which had been tried to be eradicated by the Spanish. First stop was Q’enco and a discussion on how a lot of the Inca history was basically made up, as no records existed. A lot of references are from a book written in the 1,500’s which he rightly stated may not be correct as not a lot of books and writing was done back then. I like the way the guides have been saying this and not saying what they are telling us is gospel. Truth is no one knows why the Inca died out, same as why Machupicchu was abandoned.

There were some interesting points made - a rock in the centre of a formation that was not finished and you could clearly see where it had been dressed/chipped/formed whilst other faces were rough rock. At this site many years ago researchers had cut a big chunk of rock off using the supposed Inca way of cutting holes and inserting pieces of timber that expanded when wet, causing the fracture they used to break. There were also 4 rocks that had been dressed in the way the story describes the Inca doing it, and they were very close to the real thing.

He also pointed out that a random rock sitting high against a wall of rock actually had a purpose; when the sun hit it at a certain angle the shadow was that of a cat form. Also another ambiguous rock that had been carved with a ledge in it. This rock would show no shadow at midday but morning and afternoon there would be a shadow that could be used to track the annual solstice which was the only annual events the Inca followed.
We were ‘treated’ to a walk through a tunnel cut through the rock. The story goes that this was used at solstice to cleanse the bad juju from your body. We went through in a conga line as it was pitch black, tight, low and a bit confusing.
This then opened up into an amphitheatre of some size.
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Around the corner was a spectacular view of the city then back on to the bus. Of course we had the mandatory stop at a textile place for a comfort stop which quickly turned into a sales event. They had all Alpaca weaving a but the prices were beyond my financial statement with socks at 120 Soles ($60] and jumpers at 470 Soles ($235). Only 1 American bought a scarf.
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There was a bit too much time spent here and then we were back on the bus to Puka pukara
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I can’t recall what this site was for but it had some substantial building work done on it.

Next stop just up the road was Tambomachay, which featured waterfalls and the remains of a guardhouse. The water falls had spaces built above them for some sort of ceremonial use. I didn’t get phone shots of this site so nothing better than a info sign.
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A bit of a wander through the site for more view points and then on the bus to Saqsaywaman.
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This is a huge site and there is no way you could do it all in a day. There were multiple areas of occupation but we went to the main site which had absolutely massive stones placed in formation to make a retaining wall and platform. For the first time I saw stones that had been formed with curves which is just another level of craftsmanship. Some discussion on how the stones were moved, replicating previous guides, explained that they used rope made from agave plants to pull the stones using thousands of men to manoeuvre it. Based on the walls we’ve seen that are clearly work in progress - built up at the ends and middle but unfinished in parts - this theory makes sense as it would be a long term project to do these things.
We had the opportunity to battle other tourists for pictures at a stone entranceway and get up close to the stones.
Unfortunately I didn’t get phone shots here either but the stones were massive. They towered over everyone and had some real big ones as corner stones.
The scale of this site is amazing.

The last stop was Qurikancha in the city centre. As this was not included in the Touristo Boleto, and running low on Sol we didn’t do this part. Probably would been interesting from the little we’ve read about it.

There was a thunder storm that passed through the middle of the day with some light rain, but nothing serious and we all had rain costs, or cheap poncho’s if you were a back packer.

Altitude sickness was pretty low today, I was breathless from walking up hill but coped OK. Hopefully the new drugs are doing their job.

During the tour we got a message from a tour operator we had booked for a Palccoyo Rainbow Mountain tour had been cancelled. Which was annoying as we had planned this as a last activity before a rest day on Sunday prior to flying to Quito on Monday.

So we went back to the room and started researching other operators, and could only find one for Sunday leaving at Stupid o’clock in the morning.

At about 5.30 we went off in the search of dinner. We.’d seen another chicken joint just down the road from the one who gave me dodgy food last night, but on looking in it was empty, where the other place was jumping again.
So, we went back to Las Todos Chicken. But this time I went the 1/4 chicken and chips and didn’t eat all the green salad. The water here is full of bugs so maybe my eating the lettuce last night I copped a dose of bugs.
This time mains turned up fast and the portion size was big again.
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Wandering back to the room the Mrs felt like chocolate so we stopped in at a little shop with very enticing treats. 10 Soles for a slice of this bad boy (admittedly a thin slice 😢)
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But hankering for just a small chocolate hit, as luck would have it right outside our hotel a street vendor had little lumps of chocolate for 1 Sol each. Turns out it had a biscuit base, a mint filling and was yum. (If this thread stops after this, it’s probably man down)
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Now back in the room praying for a quiet Friday night full of nothing. But expecting the worst as apparently this is festival week and the locals are going hard. There’s been massive booms from fireworks all day so they are warming up
 
Day 10

Saturday morning. Should be a time of rest. So why the heck did we have some bloke loading bags of rubbish into a ute at 6.30 am???? When will it end.
We struggled through trying to rest until 8.30 then went to breakfast.
I opted for an omelette with hams cheese and tomato but it really wasn’t different to non-ham offerings.
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As we had a free day we decided to go to the San Pedro markets which are the biggest market in Cusco and has all sorts of offerings from fresh food to trinkets.

It was only a couple of minutes walk up the road and when we went it the hubbub hit us. Lots of people, lots of stalls and somehow it all worked. Not really looking for anything particular I made an instant decision to buy a hat which are the common ones worn over here. Again, all the vendors had the same hats and it was just a matter of finding the size and colour that suited. Mrs also decided to get in on the action and also started checking them out.

We went back and forwards between about 5 stalls before narrowing it down to 1 where they had hats that both of us liked. And so the negotiations began, but this lady knew her product and her market and she was only dropping the price down by nothing. Still, it was a good deal as they were both Alpaca blend which sat above the synthetic ones but well below baby Alpaca which were 150 Sol each.

So, we settled on 135 Sol, about $89 AUD. But to pay by card we had to stump up the standard 5% card fee that is applied by everyone.

So we went the USD route. Si, it will be $38 USD. We’d changed our dollars at .64 so we ended up paying 59 bucks for 2 hats. And if anyone asks, they are both baby Alpaca 👍.

Still looking for trinkets we ambled the rest of the joint and took in the sights. Fresh meat sitting out int he air and the biggest black flies enjoying walking over it. Whole chickens trussed up - and they grow their chooks big here. Fish again out in the breeze. Cereals and grains of every description in bulk bags.

People just sitting down at tiny stalls eating.
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Mrs bought a small coin bag in an Inca style and then set out buying a swatch of cloth to make a cushion. Not finding anything to suit we went out side and there in a line was a whole heap of textile shops. She bought what she wanted, in double the length for half the price at 18 Sol, so 2 cushions are in the works.

Outside were some street food vendors selling what seems to be a popular dish - chicken pieces in a soup thing.
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Back to the room to regroup and see if we’d had confirmation of tomorrow”s tour but the inter webs were down, so went off to a historic museum that was included in the Touristo Boleto ticket which was a few minutes walk away. I’ve come to realise that Cusco is really not that big in terms of Tourist needs and a lot of the sites are minutes walk.

The museum traced the history back to Dot in Inca terms, and had a lot of interpretive displays of animals, plants and landscape. Then it moved into the people inhabiting the place and the various stages. My bent is the Inca and Aztec times and they had a lot of original items from the Inca. Quite fascinating that they were able to produce such crafted pieces in what you’d think were primitive times. The evolution through the years showed they certainly learnt how to improve and the last items of metal are particularly fine in context.
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As the tour operator was a block away we thought we’d roll on in and make sure our booking was good and we could get the pick up details.

Turns out they are a very nice bunch of people. Our guide was there and we met him, exchanged phone numbers and he said he’d call us around 5am to confirm the pick up time. It sounds like there is only 2 other people with us so that will be great.

Palccoyo mountain is part of the Rainbow Mountain complex but much lower and faster to get to. At 4,900 feet it is just on 1,200 feet higher than here and as I’m still suffering from altitude sickens this will either sensational or stupidity. My money is on the latter and I really hope their oxygen bottle is fresh.
The drugs I’ve been taking are Diamax and are a diuretic so last night I was up 4 times. They say you need 1.5 litres of water for the walk so I’m hoping I don’t need it.

Last order of the day was dinner. Another new joint was a spaghetti joint down the road. Good reviews and when we got there some locals were tucking in. In preparation for tomorrow we went a Spaghetti Bolognese. Strange to see your spaghetti being heated in a microwave but maybe it was cooked and then just a heated. It was cooked and that’s all I cared about. Not a lot of beef or sauce but it was good enough for 20 Sols.
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Then, back off the room but not before passing by the chocolate lady from last night and taking 2 chocolate treats off her tray.

Now hoping for a quiet Saturday night for a 4.45 start tomorrow.
 
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