The Last Samurai, Tokyo and Sapporo

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Woke up feeling much better than my two new friends would have.
Forecast wasn't very promising today. Top temp of 2 degrees and snow all day.
The view outside my bedroom window, while pretty, wasn't promising.

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I really wanted to get to the Historical Village of Hokkaido at some stage.
Hard to explain.
Think Sovereign Hill but in Sapporo. I guess that explains it a bit.
Still, I don't think today was going to be the day.
Snow was falling quite heavily and although I had a wonderful Richmond Football Club rain jacket, I decided to put it off until tomorrow, although snow was forecast again.
Sapporo is one of the snowiest cities on the planet with an average snowfall of 5.96 m (19 ft 7 in) per year.
Sapporo has, on average, 26.5 snowy days each December, 28.8 each January, 25.4 in February and even 23.5 in March.
However locals told me this year was particularly lean for snow and generally had high temperatures.
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I decided that today would be an eating and shopping day.
I also wanted to go up the Sapporo TV Tower, but with so much cloud and snow, also decided to put it off until tomorrow.
I caught the subway two stops to Odori, where there was an Onitsuka Tiger shop.
I LOVE these shoes. I live in them.
And to be in a store with so many choices was amazing.
Unfortunately my first three choices (all at around $109) were unavailable due to my large western feet.
Another pair caught my eye and was my size but were $220 and they were light coloured, which I am not that keen on, because they get dirty quickly.
I decided to think about it.
I ventured to Aurora Town which is an underground shopping mall.
The wife LOVES handbags, and I found a really cool handbag shop that had handbags that were made in China, but also some that were made in Japan.
Anyway I know her taste and bought one that was down from ¥30,000 ($420) to ¥20,000 ($280) and with 5% off with my passport, which I had on me, I don't know why, I bought it.
Serious brownie points for Justin Bieber.

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It was snowing really heavily, which was both lovely and annoying.
I love snow.


I decided lunch was in order and went to a place in the mall, that I wasn't sure what the hell I was eating.

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Once again it was sizzling hot and took me an ice age to eat it, but it was so good. I was going to miss the food here.


I stumbled across a market and although it was unremarkable, it was still interesting to see all that seafood.
I did ask permission to take photos from the stall holders.

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Walked around some more and actually clocked up 15,130 steps which wasn't bad considering the snow.
At least this shop is honest.

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There was an entire street that was covered from the elements and it ran for blocks and blocks and contained stores, bars and eateries.
Wandered some more and really enjoyed being out and feeling good.



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Late afternoon and the snow was getting to me.
Yeah nah.


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I travelled back two stops by subway to my apartment and thought I'd have something to eat before heading for beer.
This was super good.

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I made a point of heading back to Beer Bar Basil Basil where I was greeted with open arms...almost literally.
Couple of quiet ones there and then decided to get the subway to Susukino.

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Planned three or four quiet pints before heading back hitting the sack and getting up early.
Haha!
I was sitting at the St John's Wood pub when a young man spoke to me and asked me where I was from in very broken English.
Turned out he was with his three mates on a Sunday night and lived within walking distance. As it was a public holiday tomorrow, they were up for a big one.
They were flirting (or so I thought) with two young women on a table next to us, but it turned out they knew them as they were all locals.
He explained his name to me but in the end said his name translated into Bridgestone, "like the tyres" so I called him Bridgestone for the evening.
He also explained he lived in Brisbane for a year to study, but got homesick so returned back to Japan.
His English was quite reasonable, but of course as soon as you tell a Japanese person that their English is good, they get very embarrassed and say it's terrible.
He was a student, one of his mates was a policeman, one was an admin worker and the other an office cleark. The two young women were a teacher (she spoke quite good English) and a student.
Of course it turned into a night of heavy drinking.
They were downing shots like bosses.
I asked for six shots (the female student didn't want one) and the bartender asked in English "Are you sure?"
I said "Hai" which is 'yes' in Japanese.
What followed was six pints of lager.
Something got lost in translation.
I explained I asked for shots and the bartender apologised (I also apologised profusely and said I would pay for it) but she said iit was free and handed them out to everyone.
That made me an instant hit.
I also paid for the shots and we went drink for drink for ages.
Selfie with the fellas.

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Apparantely my tee-shirt was a cause of considerable intrigue.
Also Hokkaido pro baseball team are the Tigers so they were all impressed.
The girls wanted a photo with my Richmond beanie. I swear I didn't ask for one.

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It was well after midnight by now and I was quite concerned about finding the subway station and making my way home.
I was quite full of 'merriment'.
Navigate I did and made it back safely.
Bought this monstrosity from 7/11 and then entered a very deep sleep.

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Off to Beer Bar Basil Basil.
The rain had made the snow on the ground very slushy.
I had bought a cheap pair of crampons for the trip as my previous trips to Alaska and Northern Canada in winter had told me the icy footpaths were downright dangerous. But it didn't look I would need them this trip.
The guys at the bar recognised me instantly from the previous night.
I took a seat at the bar and had a Yebisu Black. Not that Yebisu is pronounced Ebbis.
I was surprised at how quickly I had picked up a few words of Japanese.
I asked for 'mizu kudasai' ('water please') and the staff were very impressed.
This dark beer was very nice and certainly a 'sipper' rather than a 'quaffer'.

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It was around 8.30pm and by now the ski crowds were starting to filter in. There were several hotels nearby and once people finish their skiing, they go out for a meal and drinks.
Most of the clientele were Asian and I saw no westerners during my time in this bar at all.
The bartender, a lovely lady by the name of Kato, had two friends drinking at the bar, a guy and a girl, both 29 years old I would find out.
Kato spoke very limited English but using a translator app, she explained to me that her two friends would like to be my friends and asked if they may join me.
Now I will confess I wasn't exactly in the mood to converse using an internet translator for the next few hours, but I couldn't exactly refuse, so I beckoned them over.
It became quite clear that they had much more to drink than I, but that was OK.
I can't remember their names, but when the guy went to the bathroom, the woman assured me that she and the man were not an item.
Umm, OK.
Anyway they turned out to be awesome.
One of the things that I found equally funny and annoying at the same time during my whole time in Hokkaido was what followed when I introduced myself by my first name which is Justin.
"JUSTIN BIEBER" would be the reply every single damn time to much merriment and laughter.
In the end I resorted to "No, Justin Timberlake" which only caused more merriment and cackling laughter.
Anyway after a few drinks together, it was suggested we play the 'alligator game'.
It involved a toy alligator with buttons for teeth. You take turns in pressing the teeth until eventually one of the teeth leads to the alligator's mouth snapping shut and you lose the round.
The duo racked up six shots of God knows what and we decided to play six games. The loser had to skoll a shot.
I offered to pay, but was met with "No, Japanese hospitality" on the man's iPhone.
Anyway it was heaps of fun, and I had only had a couple of beers so wasn't worried in the slightest about losing.
After the guy had lost the first three rounds, I was actually hoping i would lose a round so I could have whatever it was that was in the shot glasses.
On the fourth go, she lost and had to skoll.


By now things were starting to get messy and for once it wasn't me who was in a bad way.
Two more games to go and by now I was really praying that I would lose so these two people weren't forced to drink more hard liquor. They clearly didn't need it.
He lost the fourth game and then he lost the sixth and final game as well.
This video goes for a minute, but it gives you an idea of the fun.
Listen for "Justin Bieber" when it's one of my turns.


As the camera tilts up at the end you can see him clearly struggling.
Anyway, we'd played six games of this damn thing and I hadn't lost one.
Typical.
When I want to win, I don't. When I don't won't to win, I do.
By now it was obvious there would be no more games of alligator.
He and I went outside for a smoke (in my case a vape) and he could barely stand let alone talk.
I was actually a little worried.
I had to help him back inside and amazingly, he ordered another beer.
Certainly no RSA in Japan by what I could tell.
After a few sips, he vomitted into his glass, filling it up with all sorts of things that had been eaten that day.
The staff thought it was hilarious and everyone in the entire bar was saying sorry to me.
Maybe after the laughter, everyone was embarrassed.
I tried to explain that this happens in Geelong most days of the week, but it clear they were both well gone.
As she was the less inebriated of the two, I suggested she makes sure he gets home safe and she said she would, but said she wanted to spend more time with me and said she would be back in an hour.
Now, I don't profess to be the most attractive man on the planet and clearly not in Justin Bieber nor Justin Timberlake's calibre, but I wasn't going to find out.
They left and after one more beer and a warm sake, I made sure I left before the hour was up.

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All in all a really fun and eye opening experience.
I'll never forget that damn alligator, which was actually 'Crocodile Dentist'.

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That's bloody awesome !!
 
Woke up as you would expect - bloody ordinary.
Snow falling out the window and feeling miserable, but entirely self-inflicted. No sympathy for me.
Decided to head a few subway stops north to the Sapporo TV Tower.
I do like a good view.
Fair play to the tower itself. It charged only ¥700 ($10) and to be honest it was probably only worth $10.
Saw a kick cough raven on the way.

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Was colder today at 1 degree, but felt warmer for some reason. Maybe the wind and snow wasn't as heavy?
Up the tower with impeccable Japanese bowing and service in the elevator and to be honest, the views were pretty cool.
I liked Sapporo.
Nobody spoke to me in Tokyo. People were either too busy or not interested, which is fair enough, But the people in Hokkaido seemed to have more time to say hi and speak.

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The Sapporo TV Tower was built in 1957 and is 'only' 147 metres high.
The observation deck is at 90 metres.
I actually enjoyed it, although the area at the observation deck is VERY small.

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After that I decided I needed 'more' soup curry.
Thanks to @rbjhan I now realise that I had not actually had soup curry this entire trip, but I got a recommendation and headed for Suage which I was told was a genuinely authentic Japanese experience.
I found it after a while and ordered this monster.

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It was fried chicken and you could order extras...in my case, I ordered brocolli and melted cheese on the rice.
Just a couple more pics because of its magnficence.

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My goodness! It was amazing. I could eat this every day for the rest of my life.
At only ¥1200 ($17) it was a bargain.
I left satisfied, although I did think I had soup curry at least three times before.
So, @rbjhan I did actually have soup curry. Please tell me it was soup curry!

Sadly I didn't make it out to the historical village today as it was still snowing heavily.
This was my final day in Sapporo and I didn't want to leave.
Night started to fall and I made it back to Beer Bar Basil Basil one more time and the staff were rapt to see me. They couldn't believe I had been there every night for my four-night stay.
I can highly recommend it.
There was one guy there on staff who absolutely loved me and wanted to know all about Australia and practice his English. One of the staff asked me if he was bothering me and I said "no not at all". He was a gem.
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I thought I would head back to Susukino for one last drinky.
Got the subway, which I was actually enjoying for its convenience and found a bar.
It was the Monday of a public holiday but there were still office workers coming in.
Someone sat down beside me and after 20 minutes asked if I "was a traveller".
Another conversation by Google translate, but I didn't mind. This made such a refreshing change from Tokyo.
He explained to me that he worked nearby and lived nearby and popped into the bar for a beer after work.
We 'talked' for a good hour shared four pints together.
Absolutely lovely guy,
He got to the end of his fourth pint and said he was heading home.
I was halfway through my fourth and bade him farewell with a handshake and a bow.
I really enjoyed my time with this lovely man.
With a noon flight to Haneda tomorrow, I finished my beer and asked for the bill.
In broken English the barman said "Oh no, you owe us nothing. Your friend has paid your bill."
WOW!
Four pints would have been about $45 but the price didn't matter. He actually paid my bill for me and asked for nothing in return.
In fact he left before I could thank him. He did of his own free will.
It was one of those lasting memories you hold onto during your travels.
A quick subway trip back home and to bed with a smile on my face, vowing to the same n return one day.

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A balmy 1 degree.



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You are a legend Justinf.The Japanese really are friendly when you get past the initial embarrassment.We love helping them practice their English as well.
Over 30 years ago at a downstairs restaurant in Kyoto travelling with mrsdrron,our son and her mother the rest of the customers were young men working for NTT.One had worked in Melbourne for Telstra had good English.They bought a bottle of wine for us and i accepted the challenge of a few "toasts" of sake.I still remember it fondly.
When we left we were given NTT telephone cards-very handy back in 1986.

And get back to Sapporo in Autumn.It is beer festival time plus the Autumn festival with parades,
 
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Finally! Yep that was coup curry!
I don't know how you can confuse it with other things though 🤣
What spicy level did you order??
 
You are a legend Justinf.The Japanese really are friendly when you get past the initial embarrassment.We love helping them practice their English as well.
Over 30 years ago at a downstairs restaurant in Kyoto travelling with mrsdrron,our son and her mother the rest of the customers were young men working for NTT.One had worked in Melbourne for Telstra had good English.They bought a bottle of wine for us and i accepted the challenge of a few "toasts" of sake.I still remember it fondly.
When we left we were given NTT telephone cards-very handy back in 1986.

And get back to Sapporo in Autumn.It is beer festival time plus the Autumn festival with parades,
That is awesome!!!!!!
 
@rbjhan
So I worked out EXACTLY what soup curry I had.
It was
Atsuma Fried Chicken Curry (only available in store at Suage 2)
With shrimp red soup
at level 3 spice (goes from 1 to 6)
with broccoli and cheese on the rice as extras.
Rice size portion was small.

I confused everything because I had no clue and had never been to Japan before. And the places that I preferred to eat at, were pretty low key with not a lot of explanation.
 
My trip was rapidly coming to an end.
Flight back to Haneda today where I would get the Limo Bus to Narita, where I had the Airport Rest House booked and then a 10.50am flight to Melbourne the following day.
No taxi required for this seasoned Sapporo subway user.
I thought that peak hour wouldn't be so bad in Sapporo, but I made the short walk in the snow to the subway station and when the train pulled in at around 8.50am, it was packed.
Still I managed to squeeze in and three stops later was at Sapporo station.
A relatively shortish walk to the JR platforms and straight onto a train heading out to New Chitose Airport.
No seats available so standing room it was.
The train left pretty much straight away and took about 35 minutes to get out to the airport.
I was sad to leave Hokkaido. I loved it.
Up to the business class line and check in and security were relatively pain free.
New Chitose Airport is much bigger than I expected.

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I found the Sakura Lounge and able to enter the Diamond lounge as I was in 1st class. Had in been in economy, my Oneworld Sapphire status would have only permitted me to enter the regular lounge.
True to form, the lounge was stiflingly hot, with limited food options and no wine. Bugger.

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The wifi here worked well, although I didn't need to use much wifi in Japan.
I pre-bought a SIM card from Prepaid SIMs Australia – Top Prepaid Travel SIM Cards for Tourists which gave me unlimited data for 15 days for $44. It worked brilliantly and I can highly recommend it. It was sent to my Aus address and worked very, very well.
 
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