Photography and Cameras

Yep. It’s all about capturing a moment and that might not mean 0 exposure. Hence bracketing. Camera does it automatically I’ve seen if enabled then creates a composite I guess.

Tried to replicate and can’t. 1/10th - ?

Shutter priority of 1/10th of a second (approx or lower) so you blur the motion of the water. You may need a ND filter.

I’m fiddling around with settings - not always a good move. Is there a setting in the camera where the focus is not on a close object but the background is crystal clear? I’m trying to blur background but the opposite seems to happen.

Depth of field study, depends on aperture and focal point.
 
Shutter priority of 1/10th of a second (approx or lower) so you blur the motion of the water. You may need a ND filter.



Depth of field study, depends on aperture and focal point.
Yes. I had some kind of setting that meant I was blurring close objects. Couldn’t focus them. Last night I downloaded the manual as I sort of wanted to reset to default and start again. The camera has inbuilt filters but haven’t gone there yet.
 
Yes. I had some kind of setting that meant I was blurring close objects. Couldn’t focus them. Last night I downloaded the manual as I sort of wanted to reset to default and start again. The camera has inbuilt filters but haven’t gone there yet.
LOL. Sometimes RTFM works! :rolleyes:
 
I'm finally going to change to a Canon, I've been a loyal Pentax customer since 1979 when I bought a ME. But the lenses available and the focusing speed just it there. Guess there is a reason why 95% of professional photographers you see at rallies use Canon.
Probably go for a 5D Mark IV and 70-200, 2.8 IS II lense.

I had to play with this shot to get some sort of sharpness as the car is slightly out of focus, although the sign is in focus, seems to happen a lot. I've tried manually focusing hoping to get 1 good shot out of 5 or 6.

sweet lamb.JPG

Same with this one from Germany a couple of months ago. I had manually focused on the point where the car is, but it's out of focus, whilst the sign behind is in focus.


germ.JPG

As I severely cropped the above to post here, they do look a lot worse than they are.


A link to a friends page, boy does he take some good shots and he only does it for fun.

Graham Lloyd
 
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LOL. Sometimes RTFM works! :rolleyes:
It didn’t come with one - I had to download it. But it’s now on the iPad and clearly I’ve made changes to the settings :eek:. But have found the solution.

About the 1/3 rule. As a young ‘un I obeyed all the rules. Not these days. It’s my rebellious creative streak emerging.
 
I'm finally going to change to a Canon, I've been a loyal Pentax customer since 1979 when I bought a ME. But the lenses available and the focusing speed just it there. Guess there is a reason why 95% of professional photographers you see at rallies use Canon.
Probably go for a 5D Mark IV and 70-200, 2.8 IS II lense.

I had to play with this shot to get some sort of sharpness as the car is slightly out of focus, although the sign is in focus, seems to happen a lot. I've tried manually focusing hoping to get 1 good shot aout of 5 or 6.

Many try using Focus Tracking mode and burst modes in the camera?
 
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It didn’t come with one - I had to download it. But it’s now on the iPad and clearly I’ve made changes to the settings :eek:. But have found the solution.

It's like childbirth now. Nothing comes with a manual anymore.

About the 1/3 rule. As a young ‘un I obeyed all the rules. Not these days. It’s my rebellious creative streak emerging.

Ah, but some Rules Rule Them All you know! IMHO your spigot photo would be better framed and adjusted with rule of thirds.:)
 
Many try using Focus Tracking mode and burst modes in the camera?

Tried just about every conceivable option with the camera, lots of hours searching the web. It's a Pentax K-3 and they are good lenses, Sigma 2.8 70-200 and 2.8 24-60. Guys at the local camera shop have said it may need to be recalibrated, but the same happens with my old K-7 body.

I was thinking about upgrading to a full frame K-1, and getting Pentax lenses (which apparently are rebadged Tamrons with a $1000 price increase), but the total cost for that wouldn't be that far off what I would pay for a Canon and lenses.
 
It's like childbirth now. Nothing comes with a manual anymore.



Ah, but some Rules Rule Them All you know! IMHO your spigot photo would be better framed and adjusted with rule of thirds.:)
But that depends on what you consider to be the main focus. For me it’s the droplets of water coming from the main stream.
 
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I'm finally going to change to a Canon, I've been a loyal Pentax customer since 1979 when I bought a ME. But the lenses available and the focusing speed just it there. Guess there is a reason why 95% of professional photographers you see at rallies use Canon.
Probably go for a 5D Mark IV and 70-200, 2.8 IS II lense.

I had to play with this shot to get some sort of sharpness as the car is slightly out of focus, although the sign is in focus, seems to happen a lot. I've tried manually focusing hoping to get 1 good shot out of 5 or 6.

View attachment 109861

Same with this one from Germany a couple of months ago. I had manually focused on the point where the car is, but it's out of focus, whilst the sign behind is in focus.


View attachment 109862

As I severely cropped the above to post here, they do look a lot worse than they are.


A link to a friends page, boy does he take some good shots and he only does it for fun.

Graham Lloyd
This is what I was doing until I looked through the camera manual. :eek:
 
I'm not sure that I'd consider bracketing just to allow a scattergun form of exposure metering. I use it a lot (3 shots, at 1 stop difference) to allow me to make HDRs. Learn to make use of the histogram too.

I always shoot RAW, because I quite enjoy playing with the images afterwards. It can make a vast difference. Memory cards are cheap, and it's quite easy with most cameras to record both RAW and JPG (though I never do).
 
G
I'm finally going to change to a Canon, I've been a loyal Pentax customer since 1979 when I bought a ME. But the lenses available and the focusing speed just it there. Guess there is a reason why 95% of professional photographers you see at rallies use Canon.
Probably go for a 5D Mark IV and 70-200, 2.8 IS II lense.

I had to play with this shot to get some sort of sharpness as the car is slightly out of focus, although the sign is in focus, seems to happen a lot. I've tried manually focusing hoping to get 1 good shot out of 5 or 6.

View attachment 109861

Same with this one from Germany a couple of months ago. I had manually focused on the point where the car is, but it's out of focus, whilst the sign behind is in focus.


View attachment 109862

As I severely cropped the above to post here, they do look a lot worse than they are.


A link to a friends page, boy does he take some good shots and he only does it for fun.

Graham Lloyd
Your friend takes some seriously good photos - @Pushka has inspired me to do a photography course when I get home and as I've smashed my screen on my HX-90V and damaged a few other things I might use the insurance money for a slightly better camera
 
Does anyone here use a small tripod - there have been a number of occasions on this trip that I thought a tripod would come in handy
 
I have a small carbon fibre Manfrotto that easily fits a cabin bag, if you remove the head. Not sure if it is still available at all, as I tried to buy a second one a few months ago, and the only one I could get was the next size up. Another travel option is the Manfrotto clamp...it’s rare that I can’t find something to affix it too.
 
I'm not sure that I'd consider bracketing just to allow a scattergun form of exposure metering. I use it a lot (3 shots, at 1 stop difference) to allow me to make HDRs. Learn to make use of the histogram too.

I always shoot RAW, because I quite enjoy playing with the images afterwards. It can make a vast difference. Memory cards are cheap, and it's quite easy with most cameras to record both RAW and JPG (though I never do).
I currently shoot both RAW and jpg as when travelling I don’t take a PC. The iPad doesn’t seem to see RAW even though I’ve downloaded software.

I asked at the course what is the best histogram to aim for and she said there isn’t one!

I started taking photos of the histograms as we have to print those as part of our homework but then found screenshots on the iPad way easier.
9E278FC3-00F1-4D11-9FF6-7637DFC99054.jpeg
 
I currently shoot both RAW and jpg as when travelling I don’t take a PC. The iPad doesn’t seem to see RAW even though I’ve downloaded software.
I'm like a mobile Apple store, so I don't have issues with this. I own Lightroom for the iPad, but I've never bothered to use it, as I always have a laptop.

I asked at the course what is the best histogram to aim for and she said there isn’t one!
True enough. But a simple reading will allow you to avoid 'clipping', which happens when you have a bright area that is so overexposed that it contains no data. RAW can't help you there!

If nothing else, looking at the histogram makes you think about things. Because you effectively never run out of film with a digital camera, people just tend to shoot lots of shots, on the assumption that there will be something good in there. Film forced you to think about the shot, because you only had a limited number of frames. Slower can be much better in digital too.
 
In the old days when you’d shoot a roll of film, pay to get it developed and end up with a bunch of rubbish.

Hardly anyone in the course used film! I’m getting old.
 

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