Photography and Cameras

Pushka

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Started a photography course this morning. I’ve always relied on auto settings so now I’m actually trying to work out the true camera capabilities. Not sure if my point and shoot camera is going to cut it with everyone else’s dslr’s but their size makes me want to keep mine simple. Now I’m heavily into Aperture and shutter priority, ISO and raw images. Seems the only thing my camera lacks is a long focal range (only up to 18 from memory, maybe 8) but my shutter speed is extreme. So I can take photos of very fast things but will lack clarity in focus of long range items. My jury is still undecided on the latter though.

The course will lead to a certificate or diploma but I’ll need to use film for that as it involves use of the dark room.

Anyone tried out CameraSim? It’s a great way to see the effect of all the settings.

And I have started a journal for my homework.
 
Started a photography course this morning. I’ve always relied on auto settings so now I’m actually trying to work out the true camera capabilities. Not sure if my point and shoot camera is going to cut it with everyone else’s dslr’s but their size makes me want to keep mine simple. Now I’m heavily into Aperture and shutter priority, ISO and raw images. Seems the only thing my camera lacks is a long focal range (only up to 18 from memory, maybe 8) but my shutter speed is extreme. So I can take photos of very fast things but will lack clarity in focus of long range items. My jury is still undecided on the latter though.

The course will lead to a certificate or diploma but I’ll need to use film for that as it involves use of the dark room.

Anyone tried out CameraSim? It’s a great way to see the effect of all the settings.

And I have started a journal for my homework.

My husband taught underwater photography for years and now he has his own monthly Guys Chasing Waterfalls photog group as well.

All I know is apparently you always need more lenses. Always...
 
Started a photography course this morning. I’ve always relied on auto settings so now I’m actually trying to work out the true camera capabilities. Not sure if my point and shoot camera is going to cut it with everyone else’s dslr’s but their size makes me want to keep mine simple. Now I’m heavily into Aperture and shutter priority, ISO and raw images. Seems the only thing my camera lacks is a long focal range (only up to 18 from memory, maybe 8) but my shutter speed is extreme. So I can take photos of very fast things but will lack clarity in focus of long range items. My jury is still undecided on the latter though.

The course will lead to a certificate or diploma but I’ll need to use film for that as it involves use of the dark room.

Anyone tried out CameraSim? It’s a great way to see the effect of all the settings.

And I have started a journal for my homework.

That’s something I’m interested in doing too especially with all the travelling I’m doing at the moment and I can’t work out how to get the right settings for some impressive scenery.

I’d be interested in what you think of it. How long does it last and presume FTF in Adelaide?
 
Started a photography course this morning. I’ve always relied on auto settings so now I’m actually trying to work out the true camera capabilities. Not sure if my point and shoot camera is going to cut it with everyone else’s dslr’s but their size makes me want to keep mine simple. Now I’m heavily into Aperture and shutter priority, ISO and raw images. Seems the only thing my camera lacks is a long focal range (only up to 18 from memory, maybe 8) but my shutter speed is extreme. So I can take photos of very fast things but will lack clarity in focus of long range items. My jury is still undecided on the latter though.

The course will lead to a certificate or diploma but I’ll need to use film for that as it involves use of the dark room.

Anyone tried out CameraSim? It’s a great way to see the effect of all the settings.

And I have started a journal for my homework.
Daughter is well versed in aperture, shutter speed etc etc and does manage to get some great photos. She finds a challenge in getting a bird in flight in perfect focus. Her kit was not overly expensive - about $4 for camera and big lens. The killer of course is that it weighs a ton!
 
That’s something I’m interested in doing too especially with all the travelling I’m doing at the moment and I can’t work out how to get the right settings for some impressive scenery.

I’d be interested in what you think of it. How long does it last and presume FTF in Adelaide?
There are 3 official providers in Adelaide who are registered providers if you want to get the certificate or diplomas. TAFE,UniSA and CCP on Richmond Road. It’s a fee service. Also - try out CameraSim on your pc to get an understanding of the settings. The first hour was a little disorganised but I learnt some surprising and basic stuff immediately.
 
Daughter is well versed in aperture, shutter speed etc etc and does manage to get some great photos. She finds a challenge in getting a bird in flight in perfect focus. Her kit was not overly expensive - about $4 for camera and big lens. The killer of course is that it weighs a ton!
That would be $4k? See my camera would get the bird in flight coz it’s fast but the scenery behind would be blurred. And I don’t do heavy anymore.
 
That would be $4k? See my camera would get the bird in flight coz it’s fast but the scenery behind would be blurred. And I don’t do heavy anymore.
I am about to buy a Sony A6300. As I have recently had to buy a new carry on bag which is a little lighter, I have 500 grams spare!
 
Oops, yes it is $4K. She likes to blur the background so that the subject stands out,

View attachment 108472
They are excellent but I can't justify the $4k and seeing as I can damage a camera very quickly (I think travel insurance has paid for a new one every year for about the last four years) then I obviously can't be trusted with an expensive one. I also like light and put in my pocket
 
They are excellent but I can't justify the $4k and seeing as I can damage a camera very quickly (I think travel insurance has paid for a new one every year for about the last four years) then I obviously can't be trusted with an expensive one. I also like light and put in my pocket
Light it ain't! She has a backpack to store it in. I think it's about 2.5kg for camera and lens which can get quite heavy when you are standing waiting for the subject to appear. Though it pales when compared to a guy in the Galapagos when we were there who had 2 DlLSRs with huge lenses - how he managed to jump on and off the zodiacs I have no idea.
As Pushka has learned in the course, shooting in raw has lots of advantages. MrLtL has taken over my Olympus four thirds camera and is shooting in raw now. I was lazy and used the auto settings mostly. I think I will just get a reasonable point and shoot camera instead.
 
Started a photography course this morning. I’ve always relied on auto settings so now I’m actually trying to work out the true camera capabilities. Not sure if my point and shoot camera is going to cut it with everyone else’s dslr’s but their size makes me want to keep mine simple. Now I’m heavily into Aperture and shutter priority, ISO and raw images. Seems the only thing my camera lacks is a long focal range (only up to 18 from memory, maybe 8) but my shutter speed is extreme. So I can take photos of very fast things but will lack clarity in focus of long range items. My jury is still undecided on the latter though.
.

Are you referring to aperture re “ long focal range”?
As in F18 or F8?
 
Yes. Interchangeable.

Really narrow aperture like F18 requires a very bright environment as the aperture is very small. Using aperture priority with narrow aperture or Fstop will cause shutter speed to slow to let more light through. Raising ISO can compensate a bit.

Don’t really need aperture that narrow though.

Benefit of narrow aperture is the depth of field is long so everything tends to be in focus even if your aim is out a bit especially in fast moving subjects where you might accidentally focus on the background instead of the subject due to the movement speed of the subject
 
The lecturer did this cute trick with a hole in the door and help up a transparent white sheet. On the sheet we could see outside but everything was upside down. And that is the simple method of the camera. Before mirrors were used.

Dutch painter Van Meeren would trace around such a picture then turn it over and paint it. Producing artwork that looks like a photo.
6AA14752-CE7D-4092-8980-1702DD65AAE3.jpeg

Your comment about the aperture makes me think I really don’t need to get an SLR. My purpose is to enjoy the scope of the camera I have (and love) and not get a distinction in an assessment.
 
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The interesting is that even kids can reproduce (by drawing) a photo when the photo is turned upside down.

Shooting in RAW allows postproduction manipulation. I currently use Adobe Lightroom

Im getting stumped in low light flash party photography. Just doesn’t seem to turn out right

Here is one of my pics: Lens canon 70-200 f2.8
Aperture priority set as wide as possible to allow a shutter speed of at least 1/1000 or faster as subject is fast. I tweaked the exposure compensation to +1.5 to make the snow whiter. As it was a sunny day the aperture was F3.0 but I still had to push ISO to 400. The Bokeh highlights the subject. Then post production in Lightroom to tweak the exposure and colour saturation.

Always do a custom white balance before a shoot
 

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Unless you really have the desire to produce largish (A3+ or A2) prints to adorn your walls and want to spend serious cash on camera and printer, and carry heavy gear around, its my conclusion that the cameras used by drron, and rooflyer to name a couple are capable of producing very acceptable results if used with a little thought and learned skill.

Its about knowing what your camera is capable of.
 

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