A trip (report) down memory lane - Saudi Arabia and Egypt in the 90s!

[RooFlyer]

One of my most favourite trips was one for work to Saudi Arabia and Egypt in 1994. I've just gotten around to getting my 35mm slides scanned (hat tip to flyboyal) and I thought I'd share some of those memories here. It was certainly an unusual trip - actually two, which I'll combine into one here - and I guess Saudi isn't a country that's visited much. Then, and I think now, you can't visit as a tourist - you have to be invited by some organisation there and its not a trivial thing to do.

The reason I went (with a colleague) was that our mining company wanted to assess the middle east as a place to expand and invest. None of the lawyers or accountants wanted to go, so it was up to we geos to do the accounting and legal due diligence as well as the mineral assessment. Wahoo!

Our target countries were Egypt, Saudi Arabia, Sudan and Yemen. Yemen unfortunately was soon engaged in one of their periodic civil wars, so that got ruled out early. When we went to Egypt and saw the Australian Ambassador there, he pleaded with us not to go to Sudan, so that got ruled out too. So that just left Saudi and Egypt, and over 2 trips we had to see the bureaucracy and possible 'partner' accounting firms, lawyers and banks in the cities, and to 'head bush' and see the country, and the mines.

Here's our driving route in Saudi Arabia. There is a decent mountain range running parallel to the Red Sea coast and that was our main interest (we'll leave the desert to the oil guys ).



And just to show that the Saudis are not humourless, at least then:



That said, you'd have to wonder if this statue, like the one above, on the Jeddah Corniche, is still there ...



Of course we were immersed in an Islamic country: and knew the rules, but on the freeway to Mecca, the authorities left little doubt:



Westerners were regular visitors of course .. the Intercon in Jeddah was pretty comfortable, even if it did have one of the mose useless things in the Kingdom (an in-pool bar)

 

[RooFlyer]

I should say that 22 years and mostly not using Kodachrome 35mm slide film means that many of the images have lost their colour balance ... especially the first lot. Also, they were not scanned at high resolution, so are coming out a bit blurred, I find. Bear with me; furture posts will be sharper, I hope.

We saw the Ambassador and the Trade guy the first day and they recited the basic rules:

* Don't take a photo of anything that you might be inclined to bomb during a war: bridges, government buildings, palaces, ports etc ;
* Don't mention Lawrence of Arabia (oops .. I was carrying Seven Pillars of Wisdom to read by the Red Sea at Jeddah ...) ;
* Don't stare at family groups;
* Treat every car on the road as a potential hazard when driving; beware unsignaled, 'blind' turns and u-turns, even on divided roads;
* Be discrete in everything;

There were more, but those were the ones remember.

Riyadh I recall as being very hot and sterile. A lot of 'old city', but freeways everywhere and clumps of modern government and bank buildings. You never saw a soul walking anywhere.



We were staying at the Intercon, and a few hundred metres down the road, across a freeway was an amazing looking building. Well, you couldn't not sneak a picture, right? We snapped discreetly away buy the edge of the freeway (camera in backpack trick), when a car came to a stop on the other side. The window wound down, and a Saudi gent wagged his fingers at us. He knew what we were up to! We beat a hasty retreat to the hotel, where we learned that it was the ... Interior Ministry :shock: . A big ooops! We agreed that if either didn't appear at breakfast the next morning, the other would call the embassy ... We survived.



With an afternoon free, we went out to Dir'aiya on the outskirts of the city. It was a 'tourist attraction' as far as that sort of thing went in the Kingdom.

It was the original home of the Al Saud family - the Saudi Royal family - and was their Emirate's capital in the 1700s. It was pretty ruinous when we visited but I gather its been done up a bit now. It was declared a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2010.

 

[kermatu]

The pics are terrific as far as I'm concerned. Thanks for taking the effort to post. Looking forward to more.

 

[RooFlyer]

The night before we hit the road the head of the Trade group in the embassy invited us tor dinner, as he was having a few Aussies over. He insisted on sending a driver for us and we arrived at a nice villa in a walled compound. Compounds obviously so wives can get about in normal attire, play tennis, swim in the compound pool etc without offending local sensibilities. This type of posting was obviously limiting for family life

When we sat down he asked "Now what would you like to drink?" By this time we were attuned to local customs and asked for 'Saudi Champagne' (that's apple juice and Perrier). He looked at us with pity. "No, what would you like to drink?" He explained that once a year, each Embassy was allowed to bring in a container load of booze. When each mission's day came, the network opened up, and everyone went swapsies. Now we knew why he sent a driver. A very pleasant night.

Next day, we went to the local supermarket to stock up for our road trip. There, in the middle of the floor, was a stack of cartons of beer. :shock: Double takes! Then we realised it was the old Bond Super Light. 0.9% alcohol if I recall correctly, so it wasn't classified as alcoholic in the Kingdom. Well of course we got a case and happily swilled it while we were driving (well, just the once for the novelty.)

We chose a nice Merc as our exploration vehicle ...




Even in 1994 the freeways in Saudi were amazing. At least 2 lanes each way, divided, and fenced, even way out in the desert (against camels). This patch of freeway was no-where in particular:





And the same went for these guys:

 

[LadyC]

Very interesting Rooflyer. always good to read about a part of the world I have never been to.

 

[opusman]

Interesting photos! I remember Michael Palin went there in the 80's in his Around The World In 80 Days series and it seemed a very strange place. Definitely on my list of countries I hope never to visit

 

[RooFlyer]

We drove down a long 'outback' road to a small gold mine near Duhknah (see map). 'Can't miss it' we were told. But we did. Driving along, we suddenly found ourselves in the middle of what was undoubtedly a very long, broad tarmac airstrip! OMG we concluded, we've accidently driven onto some un-marked military airfield :shock: . We hightailed out of there, found the turn-off to the mine that we missed, and reported our story to the guys at the mine, expecting any moment for the military to burst in and take us away ...

Truth was more prosaic. When the mine was to be opened, they invited the King to do the honours. So the Royal Household swung into action. They erected a 15km long, 6m high perimeter fence (for security); they planted and watered about an acre of grass (for ambience). And they extended and sealed the mine airstrip - so it could take the King's jumbo jet.

In the end the King didn't go - but the Household still asked for the gold bar that was going to be presented to the King

On we went (map anti-clockwise) to visit the Mahd al Dhab gold mine (Mahd al Thahab on the map). Its was a large underground mine, mostly run by expats. The name means 'Cradle of Gold' and it was one of King Solomon's mines. Anyone who has worked in the gold mining industry in the last 25 years will tell you that this picture is very unlikely (and I'm not talking about the guy on the right):



Being admitted to a 'gold room' let alone being able to handle the product has been banned almost everywhere for decades, but the mine manager very kindly allowed us in and for us to take pictures. Can't say the same for the Gold Room manager - I tell you, if looks could kill, we would have dropped dead on the spot! He was 'Not, happy, Jan!'


We drove on and visited another mine, this time on care-and-maintenance. The mine opening leads to several km of tunnels, going downwards. That being the case, I think I'd like a bit more height between the entrance and that flash-flood prone dry river bed!



Pretty rough country, eh? As we were bumping and crawling over some atrocious 4WD tracks, we came across an old gent - the caretaker. Our property guide relayed that we were invited to afternoon tea. Yes, please!

We drove and our host raced up the hillside like a 20 year old. He was maybe 60.

By the time we arrived, all was in readiness for us. Carpets and cushions laid out, and some refreshments. See pic below, they included:

* A bowl of fresh dates with butter (yum!) - the bottom right bowl on the right;
* A platter of rock-hard cheese (interesting ...) - the top right bowl
* A bowl of strange looking, light brown liquid. It was raw camels milk, with Pepsi in it - the lower left bowl. All the rage apparently. We were keen to try, but our guide absolutely forbade it, saying we would definitely be sick for days. He made our apologies to our host!

The tea was very welcome. Just after this, the little boy who served the tea was told to recite what we think a poem (it wasn't the Koran, our guide said) It went on for about 5 minutes, and he didn't miss a beat.




Our host was proud to show off his family (well, the boys... ). See the little girl at the back? Mostly she was behind a curtain and peeped out at the strangers ..



And here's the family group (again, just - my error in not panning a bit more right). the old gent brought out his ceremonial dagger and WW2 (WW1??) 303 rifle.



Supreme hospitality and a great experience.

 

[JohnK]

Very trip report RooFlyer. And nice photos.

A country I am certain I will never visit unless I am in trouble.

 

[sergeyvzn]

What a wonderful report! I'd love to visit Saudi Arabia, I'm a sucker for places that no one else ever goes...but as you mention about it is impossible as a tourist -;((

 

[RooFlyer]

We were on the road again, this time heading towards that fabled city, Jeddah, stopping off point for pilgrims on the Haj. And on the way we had to bypass their destination, the holiest city in Islam, Mecca (the second holiest is Medina, just to the north). The freeway was well signed (most of the major ones were bilingual, but we also had a template of the Arabic names of places we were headed for; numbers weren't difficult and you read right-to-left). No GPS in those days and I suspect that there probably wouldn't be public coverage today in any case.

Note the camel-proof-fence on the right.



As you approach Mecca on the freeway, the signs in the first post come into play. Non Muslims of course cannot enter Mecca or Medina, and there are by-pass loop roads around them. I recall signs in at least 10 different languages on the approach to the by-pass - they made the message abundantly clear!

Jeddah, on the Red Sea, is the cliché oasis after the desert. We were told that it was more 'lively' than Riyadh, mainly because of the annual influx of Hajis (pilgrims) - the city gets much more exposed to the West than the capital. The old town was wonderful to wander about - a maze of old (but not ancient) buildings. No sense of danger at all - we were assured that we could drop a wallet full of cash in an alley-way and it would still be there the next day .

 

[JohnM]

and WW2 (WW1??) 303 rifle.

Both, RF. Lee-Enfield .303 lasted in service from late 1890s to mid 1950s.

Great TR .

 

[OATEK]

Both, RF. Lee-Enfield .303 lasted in service from late 1890s to mid 1950s.

Great TR .

Had them in our cadet corps in 1960s!

Enjoying the TR RooFlyer. My Dad was doing ADABS projects with Egypt around the same time, and got an all expenses paid tour of the Valley of the Kings for his trouble with army guards. So I am waiting for that section with great interest.

 

[zzap]

Incredible photos! Thanks for sharing. Saudi would be a wonderful place to visit. You were quite lucky to get this opportunity -- especially back in the 90s!

 

[RooFlyer]

On our first trip to Saudi, we flew into Jeddah airport. It would be a routine, small city airport except for one thing - the annual Hajj to Mecca, which is an obligation on Muslim adults at least once in their life who are capable (in a number of senses) of undertaking it. We were careful to visit well away from Hajj time (about a million visitors !!) but there were still a number of Hajjis on our flights in to Riyadh (on a 'lesser pilgrimage). Easy to spot, in their white wrap-around robes, even in business class

The airport has several vast areas covered by modern acrylic tents, which hold the Hajjis when they de-plane and await the busses to take them to Mecca (about an hours drive). We saw the busses parked far off in the distance - if it wasn't a thousand or more, I'd be surprised. These two pics don't really convey the scale of the tenting:





... but this one (modern Google earth) might. Check out the size of the planes next to the tented waiting areas:

 

[RooFlyer]

The best part of Jeddah was the Corniche. A boulevard on reclaimed land which seemed to have been given over to sculptors and artists and which might have been almost ay city in the world.

Completely unexpected.

 

[RooFlyer]

Of course being on the Red Sea means that some lucky imams had rather nice locations for their mosques:








Unfortunately not everyone got to admire the views. I found this sign odd. At dusk, family groups were promenading along the waterfront (ladies 'suitably' attired). Can anyone read the sign? I'm guessing it says no unaccompanied women.



In Jeddah, we saw ladies fashion and accessory shops like you'd see anywhere else (just no models) - some quite slinky outfits, Chanel handbags, perfumes, etc. Its just that wearing the gear it seems was left for the benefit of dad at home.

Another 'discrete' photo - this time from the Intercon (now the Park Hyatt) looking across to the King's Palace. Kng Fahd Fountain sticking out into the water on the left (not operating).

 

[LadyC]

Actually RF, the ladies get to show off their fancy gear to other ladies. A friend of mine was invited to an Emirati wedding in DXB. The ladies and gents are kept separate at the wedding reception, so the ladies get very dressed up in designer labels.

 

[RooFlyer]

We headed out from Jeddah, having met with the Saudi 'Mines Department'. Small compared to their oil brothers, but exorbitantly funded!! Yes, we could do business here!

On the highway, we saw volcanism related to the opening of the Red Sea. The Red Sea was created about 40 million years ago due to continental rifting, and the tension/extension extended to the surrounding land, allowing volcanoes to pop through. Things continued through about 20 million years ago, only 'yesterday' in geological time, so the volcanics look like they were erupted yesterday







We approached the mountain range which forms a 'spine' down the western margin of the country and headed up a blind valley, wondering how we were going to climb the range.

Easy! Just take the freeway up any number of hairpins and, where necessary, cantilevered out over escarpments. Phenomenal civil engineering.




Didn't expect these guys ...

 

[RooFlyer]

The mountains of Saudi were a bit disappointing scenery wise. We drove down about half the length down to the Yemeni border. Plenty of rugged escarpments, but little in the way of OMG look-at-that. type of stuff. Often misty in the morning. I must be missing a roll of slides, as I don't have anything of our hotel at mist-shrouded Abha - apparently a converted palace. It was just a one night stay en route and I remember the corridors were at least twice the width of normal corridors and the furnishings were very luxurious. Also, when we returned after 2 days away, without a reservation (knowing the place was near empty the first time), the concierge looked up and welcomed us by name! :shock:

The highways continue to climb ..




Victim of recent heavy rain!



Typical mountain scenery and a typical mountain town; rather barren and arid; terraces are used to get some cropping ground.

 

[wandering_fred]

I'll have to go through my slides from the 1980s.

Dhahran to Abha via the road around Mecca and the mountain highway.
Dhahran to Yanbu via Buraydah back via Jeddah and Riyadh
Dhahran to Jordan via the Tapline Road (with my only semi-serious accident)
Dhahran to Abha via the desert road from Al Kharj

All these trips were via motorcycle (full size road bikes). Many locals (including the police) had never seen such machines, but by the time I left there were a few other two-wheel enthusiasts doing similarly "strange" things.

The roads down the escarpments have to be driven/ridden to be appreciated.

There were also a couple of group "touristy" trips during this time. Al Ula (Damascus railway stop) and Medain Saleh being the highlights.

Happy wandering

Fred