Winter in Japan for the non-skiing family

ShelleyB

Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2022
Posts
214
I know, I know, a trip report from Japan is not exactly novel; but in a crowded field I hope this report will offer something for those interested in family winter travel in Japan without sliding down any slopes. I hope to mainly complete this TR as we travel, but we’ll see if I can keep up.

First to set the scene. Around this time last year we decided we would like to spend some time in Japan in the winter. None of us ski, but we do love winter travel and snowy areas. By we, I mean myself, Mr ShelleyB and ShelleyB-son. Mr ShelleyB has the sort of job that limits the amount of school-holiday time available for leave and also means we never really know what holiday he’ll be allocated until much closer to the time. The upshot of all that was we decided to look for points flights for myself and ShelleyB-son and Mr ShelleyB could purchase revenue flights once he’d been allocated leave.

This time last year JAL were regularly releasing economy and premium economy award seats around 360 days out, with some business class. Without too much hassle, beyond making sure I checked availability at seat release time, I snagged 2 PE seats from MEL to NRT for New Year’s Eve, and back again 24 days later using Qantas points. Would have preferred J for the return as that is a night flight, but no luck. But happy to have PE, as especially for the day flight feel it is the sweet spot for points use for a daytime flight that’s only 10 hours. Total cost for all flights (there and back) for 2 passengers was 280200 points and around $1400 taxes.

With flights sorted, spent some time considering where to go and what to do. The schedule also needed to account for meeting up with Mr ShelleyB who would be joining us 2 weeks into the trip then staying a little longer for some solo travel. The itinerary also needed to be a combination of likely snowy regions, with a combination of smaller towns and bigger cities. As much as possible we wanted to visit places we had not been before.

With all that in mind, we finally settled on the following itinerary, mainly in the Tohoku region where we have not visited before.

2 nights Tokyo

3 nights Morioka

2 nights Hirosaki

4 nights Hachinohe

3 nights Yokohama

1 night Tokyo (to meet with Mr ShelleyB)

5 nights Sendai

3 nights Nagano

After Nagano I and ShelleyB-son fly home, and Mr ShelleyB goes onto to Hiroshima and Fukuoka before flying home on CI via Taipei.

Each of the locations we have chosen is of interest in themselves and will work as a base for side trips, which will become apparent as we go along.

All travel will be by train. After spending some time with a spreadsheet, we have chosen to purchase Japan Rail passes. As we are there for over 3 weeks, the JR pass works out slightly cheaper than booking all tickets separately, and if purchased directly on the JR website (which we have) seats can be booked in advance of collecting the pass. Useful when all Tohoku shinkansen are reserved seat, and the New Year is a peak time for people in Japan to travel to visit family. We plan to make good use of Ta-Q-Bin services and travel with a small wheelie bag between us plus a day pack which should make train travel easy.

Similarly, have booked all accommodation well in advance and very happy with the pricing. All the hotels are either attached to or within a few minutes walk of train stations to minimise traipsing back and forth through potential slush or snow.

So now the fun begins of packing and ensuring I have everything sorted for myself and ShelleyB-son. Of course last I checked they have shops in Japan, so really as long as I have credit card and passport we are good to go. Looking forward to spending 2 weeks of one on one time with ShelleyB-son. He is rapidly approaching 13, a very experienced traveller and great company. He loves Japan, and enjoys the cultural experiences. I think we’ll have a blast.
 
As the JL774 is an early morning departure we are staying tonight at the airport. We don’t live so far away from Melbourne Airport as to make a stay completely necessary, but I prefer not to be rushing around like a loon in the morning, worrying if I have forgotten something, and no time to correct it if I have. As it turns out, this was good thinking.

As Mr. ShelleyB was working nights, we booked tickets on the Peninsula Skybus. At the appointed pickup point in plenty of time, and we were off. At which point I realised I left my backpack in the car with Mr ShelleyB. Bugger. Forgot to do the bag count thing, which usually stands us in good stead. Phone Mr ShelleyB, who jumps in the car, hoping to catch up with the bus. Once it was clear this was not going to happen, we disembarked (confusing everyone) and collected bag from Mr ShelleyB before waiting for next bus. Painful but not dreadful. Driver of next bus did not even charge us, which was very kind.
 
Staying tonight at the new Novotel at the airport. Not stayed here before, and signage from the Skybus drop off point at T4 was very poor. Check in was also slow, even in the Accor priority line. Finally to room, which is fairly standard with an excellent view of…the car park
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Back downstairs for dinner. Most restaurants closed, only thing open was either the Boccato bar or attached restaurant. Decided on bar as could also take advantage of Accor welcome drinks - a very acceptable shiraz for me, ginger ale for ShelleyB-son. The bar menu was very limited but will say the calamari was excellent. So good we had 2 serves. Fries very good too.

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Early start, with every alarm on and wake up call set too. But actually woke up just before 3.30 anyway. T2 is about 5 mins walk from the Novotel, and we arrived just after 4am. Check in, security and immigration all smooth. JAL premium economy offers lounge access at the Marhaba Lounge. A plain but functional lounge. Hot food was not quite ready, started serving around 5.15am. A full self bar also available. One thing the Marhaba does have is an excellent view of the gates and runways.

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Boarding at 7 for scheduled 7.20 pushback. Pushback at 7.25. First time in Premium Economy. Seats are very comfortable and roomy. They work within a shell system, sliding forward when reclined and thus not affecting the person behind. More than acceptable for a 10 hour daytime flight.

The menu:

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Breakfast served about an hour into the flight. Tasty enough without being amazing. The miso soup was quite good.

Lunch was served about 2 hours before landing. Again, perfectly acceptable without being amazing. The highlight of lunch was the smoked salmon.
 
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Landed right on time at 3.15pm local. Through immigration in record time and despite a slight delay on baggage was out through all the processes in 45 mins. I did see a number of people who had not completed the online customs and immigration forms through the Visit Japan Web and were stuck doing paper forms. Not only is this slower on arrival, the queues for those who have done the online forms are shorter and faster.

Once through to landside, we just needed to visit the Keisei office. We are staying in Ueno on this visit to Tokyo, mostly for the convenience of arriving via the Skyliner but also for ease of access to Tohoku Shinkansen. I had purchased Skyliner tickets online as they are (slightly) discounted, but this only provides a QR code which needs exchanging at the Keisei office. Only took a minute to do so, and we were booked on the 4.42 to Ueno, as the earlier Skyliner was sold out. The platform was indeed packed. On the train there are luggage racks but these were full before we boarded. No matter - plenty of space in front of our legs to fit luggage.

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In Ueno we had booked the Mitsui Garden Hotel. Our accomodation this trip is almost exclusively Japanese chains and Mitsui are among the fancier. Check in easy, and ShelleyB-son well looked after with multiple panda-themed gifts. The hotel has in fact a panda-theme going on and we were staying on the “Panda floor”. Plenty of panda artwork in the hallway.

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The room continues the panda theme, things everywhere. Even the teacups have pandas.

Although a small room, even for Tokyo, it has two really big things going for it. I personally find many Japanese hotel rooms overheated and often the aircon cannot be set lower. However, this aircon could be set to cool to 20 (no lower) which was quite acceptable. And the window could be opened which in my experience is not that common.

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After refreshing we ate our traditional arrival dinner of fami-chicken and egg salad sandwiches from Family Mart. This was born of necessity on our first visit, where a late arrival into Tokyo left the ShelleyB-family too tired to head out further than the nearest konbini, has evolved into a thing we do. And who doesn’t love a Japanese konbini egg salad sando? They are heaven in a 275 yen package.

Afterwards we headed out into a very quiet Tokyo. This time of year for locals is a time to visit family. Many shops and restaurants are closed. We knew to expect this and accordingly planned a quiet evening. Our destination for this evening was the Senso-ji temple in Asakusa. A temple visit is traditional at this time of year, known as hatsumode. Normally this would take place after midnight, as hatsumode refers to the first visit to a temple in the New Year to pray for good fortune. However, many were visiting early in the evening to avoid the massive queues that would build as the evening went on. Queues were quite long already. We really enjoyed the atmosphere at Senso-ji. There were many food stalls, undercover places to sit, and a feeling of quiet community. Closer to midnight there would be traditional ringing of the temple bells but we did not stay. It had been a long day and pandas beckoned us to bed.

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