SYD/YVR/SYD on Air Canada - benchmark for Qantas to YVR in January

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As soon as I entered my room at the Fairmont I knew there was a problem. It was warm, and I knew from past experience that it would stay warm to hot (for me). Only the more recent Canadian hotels have their air-con able to be set to 'cool' during winter; mostly the aircon just blows air at ambient temperature. In the case of the Fairmont, the thermostat told me that the temperature of the room was 23 degrees when I went in, and towards the evening it got up to 25 and a bit. This is because the building is just a big warm block of concrete and the room heats accordingly. I like my room at about 20-21 degrees and find it hard to sleep above that (I'm from Tasmania, remember :) ).

I went down to reception to see if there might be another room available the next day. they were most sympathetic and helpful and said there was a delux room on the top floor :D, at a corner which had 2 windows, and therefore the chance of a cross-breeze. I knew already that open windows only allowed air to go out, due to the overall pressure in the building, but it sounded a better room than I had, so that was fine.

Here is the lift lobby and my original room:

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and the second room, and bathroom. As I mentioned, all pretty old fashioned, but comfortable and the plumbing was OK. And, happy days, it was at an even 19 degrees, so that was a great result.


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The view out the 2 windows. Somewhere in the gloom of the LH pic is the harbour (its been raining solid since I arrived). I like the Fairmont reflected in the adjacent office building in the RH pic.

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At the very top of the building is the restaurant and bar. I think this is somewhat of a 'temporary' set-up during renovations. Again, old fashioned and comfy, although in the evening its quite dark.

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But good views, including the carvings around the parapet .. reflecting its 1930s construction.

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I really do hope QF can get a permanent SYD-YVR service happening. It would certainly make my annual mountain biking trips to BC easier! Nothing worse than dealing with the domestic US carriers trying to slug extravagant baggage fees for two bikes.
 
I really do hope QF can get a permanent SYD-YVR service happening. It would certainly make my annual mountain biking trips to BC easier! Nothing worse than dealing with the domestic US carriers trying to slug extravagant baggage fees for two bikes.

I doubt they'll start any new long haul services while they have un refurbed 747s- it's too risky marketing a 14 hour flight on an angled flat J seat.
 
A few views of Vancouver. I got a lift out towards UBC, on a promontory WSW of the city. Nice views over English Bay (the outer harbour) towards the Whistler area (away ahead on the left), North Vancouver, and the city. As usual, dozens of ships swinging at anchor waiting to dock in the inner harbour (and there are about 3 moored there, as well).

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Granville Island and the markets are worth a rubber-neck. You can drive on from the south, but only by ferry from the north (ie from the city). Lots of touristy shops.


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Its a nice view back towards the southern part of the city and the Burrard St bridge:

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The ferries across False Creek aren't exactly large, but run every 15 mins in the winter:

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Here's the map of the various ferry routes around False Creek; individual ferries do the various routes. The centre of downtown is about 10 minutes walk straight north or NE from the top of the map.

Note there is a stop on the 'Canada Line' that comes in from the airport ("Yaletown/Roundhouse station, the 'T' on the map). This would be a great place to drop in on, if, say, you had a 4 or 6 hour connection at YVR.


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Off the ferry at Yaletown, on the southern tip of the downtown area. Now its a popular residential district with condo towers, a marina and a historic shops/dining district.

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This was the site of old and extensive CPR rail yards. The old 'roundhouse' (loco turning stage and sheds) is mostly preserved (although I don't know what the fancy red thing covering the turntable is), as is Engine 374, which was the very first passenger loco to arrive in Vancouver in May 1887. This linked Canada east to west and was a tremendous impetus to the growth of Vancouver (I think still called Coal Harbour then).

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In the early 1980s, the rail yard site was proposed for a transport Expo 'Transpo' and this later became Expo '86 and the site was cleared of the old rail infrastructure but again, keeping the round house and some other buildings on the periphery.

After Expo finished, a developer got the rights to re-develop with apartments etc, and that's modern Yaletown (and why many of the apartment blocks look very much the same :) - see panorama shot above).

Now its a pretty trendy area to live, with a marina, the apartments and lots of shops and eating places. Although the slope is gentle, many of the side streets have the buildings and footpaths cut above the road level. These streets were originally sidings, and the un-loading areas were built up to be level with the wagons! This is now the footpath level.

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Now I'm not one for animals in hotels, but who could object to this :)

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This is at the Fairmont Hotel Vancouver, were I am staying. There are two of these guys/gals, who have station by the concierge desk. They are available for walking by guests and to be generally fussed over. If you don't like dogs etc you would barely know they were there. This one goes home with the concierge every evening.
 
I love that I idea of pet therapy by keeping me company on my walkies.

Now I'm not one for animals in hotels, but who could object to this :)

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This is at the Fairmont Hotel Vancouver, were I am staying. There are two of these guys/gals, who have station by the concierge desk. They are available for walking by guests and to be generally fussed over. If you don't like dogs etc you would barely know they were there. This one goes home with the concierge every evening.
 
I had not visited the Museum of Anthropology at university of BC in the many times I'd been to BC, so made sure I did this time. Main reason for not getting there is that its located well out of the CBD, about 60 minutes by bus or a 20 minute $25 - $30 taxi fare.

Anyway, I bit the bullet and glad I did.

Entrance fee is $16.50, which is pretty steep. There is a great collection of Canadian First Nation's artefacts - masks, head-dresses, and ceremonial carved poles but also items from original cultures throughout the world. The Australian part is very small; much on PNG and the Pacific, central and South America; a little on Africa.

On the left: 'Ancestor figure with slaves' Inter-tribal slavery stopped only around 1900. On the right, a 'house post' representing stories from the house occupant's ancestry.

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On the left: Supernatural birds masks. Right: Thunderbird costume; relatively modern.

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On the left: one of my favourites; just a carving, about the size of your hand, but the growth rings used to good effect. On the right - one of the major exhibits 'The Raven and the first Men' by Bill Reid. Raven discovers men in a clamshell at Prince Charlotte Islands.

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From the rest of the world. I didn't note where the LH item is from - but I love it. On the right, Vishnu figures from India.

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There are quite a few exhibits outside, in a nice grassy area by the cliffs overlooking the Straits of Georgia.


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The first 3 days I was in Vancouver it drizzled and rained the whole time. Winter on the coast! However in the past few days it improved and the past couple of days have been mainly blue skies and 13-15 degrees. I thought they were just nice winter days, but apparently its exceptionally 'warm' and sunny weather and the locals can't get the smiles off their faces. I went on an extended walk, looking at new neighbourhoods and I must say the city continues to impress. That said, Vancouver's house and apartment prices are just as bad as Sydney.

Looking towards the city from the south:

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The Burrard St bridge and part of the False Ck Marina:

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And, crossing the Burrard St bridge, looking out toward the Georgia Strait.

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Alas, Vancouver ends, and onto Calgary yet again, where the cold awaits. One thing - I'm on Westjet for the first time (Qantas code share). I've heard a lot of good things about Westjet which has the profile of Virgin Australia on start-up, but perhaps even a bit slimmer, LCC approach (no FF program, but you can earn 'Westjet dollars'.

Check-in is via kiosk, but it can't handle my free bag allowance from QF - so off to a manual check-in. No problems there. But then security. This is a big bugbear of mine at Canadian airports - if anything, less passenger 'friendly' than in the USA. I have status on Air Canada (a bit above Gold in QFF, but below Plat) and often travel J, but the opportunities for 'priority' queues are slim (the line may exist, but if there's not many in it, they let the hoi polio use it! :shock: ;) ).

Today is worse, I'm Y on a LCC - 40 minutes through security; one of the worst in my experience. The Westjet pier is pretty spartan. We start boarding 40 minutes before scheduled take-off and everyone was in, seated and settled by 15 minutes prior. Had to wait for 2 connecting passengers, then door close and push back bang on time. A 737 and it was a perfectly routine 1 hr flight. Snacks served were a soft drink and a 'sweet or salty' snack. About 12 pieces of snack in all.

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Overall Westjet - OK; I wasn't exposed to the fare paid, but I expect it would be competitive. I suspect the reason that Canadians like Westjet so much is that its not Air Canada!

Arrive YYC, get picked up and its minus 16. The streets look cold and the weather forecast tells it all!!


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Shopping. I get my usual chariot from 'car2go' (rental by the minute, either book on line or walk up to any free parked car) and shop for food, wine and beer (Super Bowl is on the next day). Now Moosehead! That's a beer I haven't seen for a while. Hope I don't see it for some time again!

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Super Bowl 49, enjoyed. Note the Hoegaarden, not Moosehead.


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