Southern India taste test - would that be hot, or extra hot?

[bPeteb]

and then it was off on our 'tour'.

We should have looked at this as we were not the slightest bit interested in walking into an ashram. How odd. All of these people trying to find their inner selves and a bunch of tourists wandering quietly in. Just weird.

Then to a very crowded temple where again we felt awkward as people were there to pray.

Sunil walked us down to the esplanade and then we were on our own. I had a very Life of Pi image of Puducherry. This was not it



lots of bars for us to choose from as we were staying at another dry hotel. We chose Sicilys and the beers were good,locally Puducherry brewed



a Banksy?



back to the hotel, after crossing the absolutely vile waterway between the French Quarter and White Town



and dinner and beers at a place called Float Gastro Pub



Lovely staff but smokers around us so it was dinner and one beer and we were back to Bull. Last actual night of the tour tomorrow at Mahabalipuram.

 

[bPeteb]

Speaks volumes when you see India (and Thailand, which is where we were for Christmas, and many other non-majority-Christian countries)) openly celebrate Christmas, with "Merry Christmas" everywhere, but Qantas has to say "Happy Holidays." Not happy Jan.

Yeah. We could not care less and have found the displays more amusing than anything else. We are not Christmas people.

 

[bPeteb]

Day 10: Puducherry to Mahabalipuram, 05.01

What the itinerary says -

After breakfast, drive to Mahabalipuram. The city is famous thanks to its seven pagodas. On the local waterfront there is a group of ancients from the 7th century, carved in rock caves and monolithic sanctuaries representing the architectural style of Drawi. The monument has been inscribed on the UNESCO list. Particularly noteworthy are the huge reliefs, considered the most perfect example of the Palladian art. The most famous is the relief of Penance Bhagirathy, known as the Ganges Ride from Heaven. The picturesque Shore Temple was built in honor of Vishnu nearby.
Overnight - Grand Continent.

And what actually happened -

Breakfast was really quite nice. Muesli! How exciting. Omelettes were cooked to order. Delicious coffee, and I think we had a tea as well.



Then on the road to Mahabalipuram




We followed the coast that was often visible out to the right.

Salt farming on the shores of the inland lakes





Not far out of Puducherry we started driving on or beside another huge road project. We asked Sunil how long it had been under construction and he said started 2024. Lots of properties ‘in the way’. In some places they had been demolished, in others, works stopped on either side of the house/business. Maybe resumptions aren’t compulsory.



very posh


Up until a couple of weeks from departure we hadn’t been sent either a full itinerary, or even a full list of the hotels. The Mahabalipuram hotel was still outstanding. I asked where would we be staying. Would it be near/on the beach?

The itinerary finally arrived and the hotel for Mahabalipuram was the Grand Continent. It is part of a chain called Sarovar and looked very flash. It had four food outlets, a bar with coughtails, a roof top pool with bbq kitchen



Completely different to anywhere that we’d stayed bar the Taj. It was on the outskirts of the town and a few hundred metres from the beach.

And it looked pretty fancy, if a little on its own, when we pulled up under a fancy porte cochere and were met by a man in a fancy uniform. It also looked a little unfinished, and there was only one vehicle in the carpark.

Checking in

 

[bPeteb]

As with everywhere else we’d stayed, the room was ready and uniform man took us up. Great sized room and this was the smallest (of course). It had a nice view of the carpark and the buses parked on the road outside. It just looked a bit worn. This was strange, as we looked it up and the hotel was only built in 2024.




When I worked in hotels (Hyatt, Accor) a lifetime ago and occupancy was low, as it clearly was here, you put people in better rooms to entice them back. This place had ocean view rooms but no luck for us.



car park and road view, the road jammed with parked, and moving, buses bringing festival followers into town



Sunil wanted to go into town for lunch so we only had time for a quick wander around. Up to the pool and the lift doors opened to two guys jackhammering tiles. We literally stepped onto broken concrete. I wanted to take a photo but Al said no,

construction next door just poking over



two deck chairs for a 42 room hotel and no sign of towels anywhere. I suppose it's winter



The supposed grill Smoke Barbeque Love up by the pool didn’t look like it had ever been open. The pool was lovely and had a great view out to the ocean. It was a shame about the rest.



We drove into Mahabalipuram and what a cool little town it was. Staying in the town would have been great. We parked at a restaurant called Moonrocks, were escorted upstairs where two people were having a drink, and ordered a couple of beers. Then Sunil said “wait, this isn’t the right place.” Beers went back in the fridge.

We made our apologies and made our way across the road to Moonrakers.

Moonrocks in the distance, from Moonrakers



As you can see from above, we got the prime table up front, and the restuarant rapidly filled with people, both Indian and caucasian.



like visiting you nannas place, glasses of different sizes



boss man arrives with a tray of fresh seafood and you choose what you want. - fish 1600, lobsters 1300, humungous prawns 1100 . Despite much pushing we went for the grey fish and just two prawns. And mild spice



this is what came out. It was bloody delicious



Sunil was in heaven with what we left him

There was quite a lot of turmeric in that spice mix



beautiful little shell necklaces that were placed over our heads as we arrived. They of course stayed behind



once we got back to the hotel we thought we'd grab a coffee down at Unwind Kitchen & Bar, but when we got to the door there wasn't a stick of furniture in there. Someone popped out of main restaurant and we said we were just looking for a coffee. Here she said so here we went. Another very nice, but deserted, space



So very, very odd, especially when you read the glowing reviews online. Fake reviews maybe? Mine will be a tad more honest

One of the hundreds of buses bringing the thousands of devotees to Mahabalipuram and it's historic sites. As with Thanjavur, most dressed in red. We were told why but I failed to add it to my notes. These buses were parked all along the road leading to teh hotel as of it led the shortest walking route into town. Were there a little noisy?

 

[bPeteb]

A guide was again included here to explain the Group of Monuments of Mahabalipuram.

How wiki describes the monuments as a group - The site has 40 ancient monuments and Hindu temples,including one of the largest open-air rock reliefs in the world: the Descent of the Ganges or Arjuna's Penance. The group contains several categories of monuments: ratha temples with monolithic processional chariots, built between 630 and 668; mandapa viharas (cave temples) with narratives from the Mahabharata and Shaivite, Shakti or Shaaktha and Vaishnava inscriptions in a number of Indian languages and scripts; rock reliefs (particularly bas-reliefs); stone-cut temples built between 695 and 722, and archaeological excavations dated to the 6th century and earlier.

Ramesh was waiting with Sunil in the carpark when we came out at 3. We drove back through the town to first get the entry tickets, INR600 each, and then Shore Temple

We were literally blown away by our visit to these monuments. We've seen a lot in our travels and all either of us cand say is just wow. They all felt 'special'. Bothe the structures and where they were.

Looking back into the town along the very nice looking beach of Mahabalipuram, well except for the usal mountains of plastic rubbish




Shore Temple



we said something to Ramesh about how amazing Shere Temple was and he said you wait, the icecream on the cake is last

 

[bPeteb]

It was then to here. The site map has it all



just incredible. How these caves were cut into the basalt and then refined into detailed temples is unbelievable




the beginning Arjuna’s Penance. We've not eevr seen anything like it. When it rains heaviliy wtaer flows down the Ganga and pools below until the elephants trunk is nearly in the water




then up the hill past the butter ball to the Koneri Mandapam, Ganesha Ratha and the Varaha Cave

 

[bPeteb]

there's more



the butter ball



and on to the Light House and the temple beside it



sunset over Mahabalipuram



and finally to Ramesh's icecream on the cake, Pancha Rathas, the Five Rathas




we then stopped at a stone carving studio where a guy showed how he carved some incredible stone pieces. These people all have to have completed a degree in fine arts before they start carving the stone. This piece a little out of our budget



and again, if we were supposed tobargain when told the price of the piece we bought we didn't. It was just $50

 

[bPeteb]

Dinner at Grand Continent was quite the experience. I think the staff were literally shocked people walked into the restaurant. Of course no alcohol as the space that has the licence isn't operating. So many things weren't available. bAlt's gut had started to say no to spice so he just wanted pasts and we eventually found one that he could have. I have no idea what I chose but it was good as has been every dish I've eaten here

whatever these were, they were delicious



the pasta



whatever I had, all gone



our tickets



the noise from a huge bus parked outside on the road was incredible. Lots of autos coming to pick people up and drop them off. Eventually, finally, it drove off. It was replaced by barking dogs that howled into the night (as said by bAlt). My earplugs worked a treat

Off to Chennai in the morning and the end of the tour.

 

[TomVexille]

I'd totally forgotten about the constant barking. Drove my mate nuts while I tuned it out

 

[SeatBackForward]

Breakfast was really quite nice. Muesli! How exciting. Omelettes were cooked to order. Delicious coffee, and I think we had a tea as well.
View attachment 490027

Now, is that someone mastering the one hand tear and eat technique?

 

[bPeteb]

Now, is that someone mastering the one hand tear and eat technique?

It is! We have become quite dab hands. It clearly catches some people by surprise when we start eating with our hand, right only of course

 

[SeatBackForward]

It is! We have become quite dab hands. It clearly catches some people by surprise when we start eating with our hand, right only of course

Yes its an awesome gesture to demonstrate - it's quite subtle thing too. My wife intentionally spent many hours learning and practising the technique before her fist visit to India and suitably impressed a wide range of relatives.

 

[Pushka]

Yes its an awesome gesture to demonstrate - it's quite subtle thing too. My wife intentionally spent many hours learning and practising the technique before her fist visit to India and suitably impressed a wide range of relatives.

Oops. I do this in Indian Restaurants in Australia.

 

[drron]

I used to do it when in an Indian restaurant in Australia. Without Mrsdrron when I was doing locums. But won’t be doing it in India as my right hand has a gross tremor since my strokes so I would end up spraying the restaurant with food

 

[RooFlyer]

Stop it! I submit! *



* Image enhanced. Can you guess how?

Can't resist this stuff. Going to book to go back to India and use Mahabalipuram as the core. I'm a sucker for this sort of thing. I went to India once based on a Joanna Lumley piece and visited Ellora, a huge temple 3D carved out of solid rock.

Post in thread 'Twice around the world in 40 days'

May 25, 2018

The land on the way to Ellora is quite arid outside of the monsoon season. Occasionally there are these brightly coloured trees (?acacia?), but that's about all. Unfortunately the first thing you come across having reached the site is a scrum at the ticket office. At this site, very popular with Indians, we experienced what might be termed Indian boganism. I know, their country etc, but some of what went on was pretty puerile. Fortunately at the ticket office the guide knew what to do (HKWIW) - went around the back door to the booth, told the guy at the counter what he wanted, got the...

• RooFlyer

• 

just incredible. How these caves were cut into the basalt and then refined into detailed temples is unbelievable

More unbelievable when you realise they are carved out of granite - much harder than basalt (the Shore Temple was basalt).

I'll rustle up my (and @RB 's) tour fixer Magan.

And then there are the Andaman islands just off to the east.

 

[bPeteb]

Oops. I do this in Indian Restaurants in Australia.

We were practising at our local before we came away and will continue when we get home

 

[bPeteb]

Once the buses left and the dogs stopped barking we slept well in a very nice bed.

Down to breakfast and it was like a different hotel. The restaurant was packed. It looks like a group had arrived for a conference. Some people had commented on lack of choice at breakfast but we found a good spread

the boiled eggs were replaced by a masala omelette. Everything was very nice, especially those small lassis that we both had two of


and a chocolate doughnut, because, why not?



Sunil was a bloody excellent guy. Safe driver. Super nice person. Called his wife the boss - even handed the phone over to me when he was talking to his wife one day becasue she wanted to say hello



apart from the AMZING monuments, Mahbalipuram is also the centre of stone carving. If you want a lsrge granite animal in your living room, or maybe garden, this is your place




one the way to Chennai, only 54km




and to the final hotel booked through Payless, the very surprising The Madras Grand. Sunil had asked on teh way in if we were staying at another hotel for our second night and we said no, two nights. He commented that it was in an area surrounded by markets, but also with a few places to visit around it. He took as past the extraordinarily wide beach and yet another old church (not interested, sigh) and then finally back into the city where the hotel was.

night time shot



Sunil looked after all of our check-ins and straight away I knew something wasn't quite right. He asked me over. Was our booking definitely for two nights. had I booked the second night myself. yes and no. I showed him my WhatsApp conversation with Neeraj and also the itinerary emailed to us that showed two nights booked and paid. He got on the phone, told me not to worry, and in less than five minutes it was sorted out. Room key handed over and it was goodbye and thank you to Sunil. What a champ



this was a bloody great room. Heaps of space, up on the top floor looking over and down into the neighbourhood



and the most comfortable bed of our stay. That will sadly become quite important all too soon.

We got ourselves sorted, worked out a plan of where we would visit, and headed out. First issue was bAlt's interpreation of the meto map he had been planning off. he'd failed to noice the 'under construction' for all but two of the lines. beach, out, unless we got and auto. We'de decide on that later so walked to the nearby Government Museum of Chennai. One the way I finally got a picture of a classic Hindustan Ambassador



Pretty much as soon as we got to the museum



bAlt started complining about stomach cramps. He was not at all well. We looked at a couple of galleries (what a very odd museum) and bAlt gave up. I quickly raced around another couple

a couple of famous Indians



then decided I'd better get him back to the room. He was bad enough for hime to look for the nearest pharmac_ so there we went, right around the corner from the hotel. He descibed his symptoms and was given something to reduce stomach acid, pantoprazole 40mg

Back to the room we went so bAlt could get some rest, and be close to the loo, just in case. We are such risky travellers!

 

[bPeteb]

view down to teh street from our room. Fascinating



bAlt was dead keen on me getting out and about and I wasn't but eventually I did. There was a waffle shop down on the corener so I went and comforted myself with this red velvet delight



as delicioulsy disgusting as it looks

Then I thought I'd try for the metro and go for a ride but got hopelessly lost and walked around in a very big and very interesting circle. No metro ride for me.

Why I took so few pictures i have no idea



Then at bAlt's persistent prompting I went for a drink. The first place, Cheers, looked way too dodgy for me



so I went for a less dodgy option around the corner. This was so less dodgy. A constant flow of business men at the end of day. What the hell is with this blue in bars?? After three beers, and some overly spicy food I returned to see how bAlt was.



He was much better, after deposting the cntents of his entire digestive system in the porcelain bus.

I however, realised as soon as I laid down in bed that I was not, and over the course of the night I drove the bus half a dozen times. Colin was also quite the active participane in events.

I think things had settled for me some time in the early morning. The only thing we'd both consumed the previous mroning were the samll lassis. if it was them we'll not ever know.