Southern India taste test - would that be hot, or extra hot?

[bPeteb]

It's annual new year's trip time.

Last year we froze in South Korea. This year we were thinking tropical but Thailand flight and hotel costs nixxed that idea. We've done Port Douglas and Palm Cove too many times so that was also crossed out. How about India?

Flights to Begaluru were very reasonable on Boxing Day, in y, queue shrieks from the assembled comfort only fliers. Exit row seats booked for return overnighter. Risking the 5am flight down to SYD on the morning of our 9.30 flight to BLR.

What to do and where to go?

Looked at a number of different options and chose a private tour with Payless India (more our style than Paymore) booked through TourRadar called Essence of Idyllic South India The best of Kerala in 9 days with idyllic houseboat and relax.

Communication was, interesting, with Neeraj at Payless Tours. Email was just too difficult (no responses) so we moved to WhatsApp where it was easier, and quicker.

I suggested that we would like to stay in hotels with character but that appeared to be a request just not understood. I managed to get one.

We added an extra night in Thekkady so that we could spend a full day at Periyar Tiger Reserve, extra nights at the start in Kochi and finish in Chennai and changed from three star to four star hotels. Total cost of the tour was USD6200. 12 nights, transfers, driver, breakfasts, some shows and entry fees.

Before I go any further I'd like to thank @somebol for his much appreciated India travel info gleened when we met up in Melbourne. Then even more his help in paying for our safari tickets at Periyar. No matter what I tried I could not get payment to go through . It could only be done from India, where @somebol is on his annual family holiday. Thank you thank you Ranga.

Our itinerary

QF501 BNE-SYD Y 26/12
QF67 SYD-BLR Y



Bengaluru one night - Taj Bangalore (at the airport)
6E 703 BLR-cough Y (changed from original flight booked due to IndiGo's ongoing pilot scheduling issues.
Kochi two nights - Bloom Boutique (I wanted to stay both in the waterfront area and at a hotel with character so this was a change)
Houseboat backwater cruise one night
Rajakkad one night - Lemongrass Inn
Thekkady two nights - Hotel Crystals Cove (full day rafting/walking safari Periyar Tiger Reserve)
Madurai one night - Astoria Hotel
Thanjavur one night - Sangam Hotel
Puducherry one night - The Bull Boutique Hotel
Mahabalipuram one night - Grand Continent
Chennai two nights - The Madras Grand (tour ends)
Indian Railways 22625 - SBC Double Decker Express Chair Class
Bengaluru one night - Radisson Blu Atria
QF68 BLR-SYD Y (low ball J bid submitted)
QF526 SYD-BNE Y 10/01

We're both hugely looking forward to this. Once I see our driver at the airport in cough I will finally be able to relax.

This time on Friday we'll hopefully be in our seats, the final door will have closed and we're powering up, ready to head to another new country.

 

[Flyfrequently]

On board with you @bPeteb - enjoy!
Where will you spend NYE?

 

[bPeteb]

On board with you @bPeteb - enjoy!
Where will you spend NYE?

In Thekkady. It looks like a really nice little town. No idea what we’ll do and how it’s celebrated in India.

 

[aaa99]

It is interesting that the best of Kerala seems to be mostly going through Tamil Nadu
Just noticed it as a native from the region who hasn't been to half those places.

Following the trip report eagerly

 

[bPeteb]

It is interesting that the best of Kerala seems to be mostly going through Tamil Nadu
Just noticed it as a native from the region who hasn't been to half those places.

Following the trip report eagerly

Haha, we thought that too!

 

[craven morehead]

It's annual new year's trip time.

Last year we froze in South Korea. This year we were thinking tropical but Thailand flight and hotel costs nixxed that idea. We've done Port Douglas and Palm Cove too many times so that was also crossed out. How about India?

Flights to Begaluru were very resonable on Boxing Day, in y, queue shrieks from the assembled comfort only fliers. Exit row seats booked for return overnighter. Risking the 5am flight down to SYD on the morning of our 9.30 flight to BLR.

What to do and where to go?

Looked at a number of different options and chose a private tour with Payless India (more our style than Paymore) booked through TourRadar called Essence of Idyllic South India The best of Kerala in 9 days with idyllic houseboat and relax.

Communication was, interesting, with Neeraj at Payless Tours. Email was just difficult so we moved to WhatsApp where it was easier, and quicker. I suggested that we would like to stay in hotels with character but that appeared to be a request just not understood. I managed to get one.

We added an extra night in Thekkady so that we could spend a full day at Periyar Tiger Reserve, extra nights at the start in Kochi and finish in Chennai and changed from three star to four star hotels. Total cost of the tour was USD6200. 12 nights, transfers, driver, breakfasts, some shows and entry fees.

Before I go any further I'd like to thank @somebol for his much appreciated India travel info gleened when we met up in Melbourne. Then even more his help in paying for our safari tickets at Periyar. No matter what I tried I could not get payment to go through . It could only be done from India, where @somebol is on his annual family holiday. Thank you thank you Ranga.

Our itinerary

QF501 BNE-SYD Y
QF67 SYD-BLR Y

View attachment 486509

Bengaluru one night - Taj Bangalore (at the airport)
6E 703 BLR-cough Y (changed from original flight booked due to IndiGo's ongoing pilot scheduling issues.
Kochi two nights - Bloom Boutique (I wanted to stay both in the waterfront area and at a hotel with character so this was a change)
Houseboat backwater cruise one night
Rajakkad one night - Lemongrass Inn
Thekkady two nights - Hotel Crystals Cove (full day rafting/walking safari Periyar Tiger Reserve)
Madurai one night - Astoria Hotel
Thanjavur one night - Sangam Hotel
Puducherry one night - The Bull Boutique Hotel
Mahabalipuram one night - Grand Continent
Chennai two nights - The Madras Grand (tour ends)
Indian Railways 22625 - SBC Double Decker Express Chair Class
Bengaluru one night - Radisson Blu Atria
QF68 BLR-SYD Y (low ball J bid submitted)
QF526 SYD-BNE Y

We're both hugely looking forward to this. Once I see our driver at the airport in cough I will finally be able to relax.

This time on Fiday we'll hopefully be in our seats, the final door will have closed and we're powering up, ready to head to another new country.

Let's go!

 

[Pushka]

Pondicherry - Puducherry - is fascinating. The most excellent mix of French-Indian cooking. Also Ashrams.

 

[Daver6]

Highly recommend not going to India if you've never been. Likely to fall in love with the place and return

Enjoy! I'm jealous.

 

[RB]

This was our houseboat in 2007- a great time and I am sure you will enjoy. Look forward to following along

 

[VPS]

Coming along for the ride

 

[bPeteb]

For the last 15 years of my career I worked closely with IT teams based in Bengaluru/Bangalore. I became friends with many of the team members and we'll be catching up with the best of them all on our last night.

Saravana is hosting us at his home. In our conversations he's asked if we have any allergies and what heat level we're ok with.

To allergies I said, not allergic, but I hate coriander. Saravana's response- you're coming to the wrong country then, hahaha.

To heat level. We're medium, maybe even mild, having foolishly experienced Indian hot a couple of times. His cheeky response - we'll dial it down because we're a hot to very hot family. Yikes!!

 

[VPS]

For the last 15 years of my career I worked closely with IT teams based in Bengaluru/Bangalore. I became friends with many of the team members and we'll be catching up with the best of them all on our last night.

Saravana is hosting us at his home. In our conversations he's asked if we have any allergies and what heat level we're ok with.

To allergies I said, not allergic, but I hate coriander. Saravana's response- you're coming to the wrong country then, hahaha.

To heat level. We're medium, maybe even mild, having foolishly experienced Indian hot a couple of times. His cheeky response - we'll dial it down because we're a hot to very hot family. Yikes!!

Good luck - always nice to know that I'm not the only one that hates coriander

 

[JohnM]

Good luck - always nice to know that I'm not the only one that hates coriander

There is a genetic reason why some people detest coriander:

Distaste for coriander (cilantro) is often genetic, linked to a specific olfactory receptor gene (OR6A2) that makes some people perceive its aldehydes as a harsh, soapy, or bug-like flavor, rather than the fresh, citrusy notes others enjoy. While genetics play a big role, environmental factors like early exposure, culinary traditions, and gradual desensitization can also influence this polarizing preference, with dislike more common in some ethnic groups.

I like coriander but I detest cucumber, also genetically-based:

Distaste for cucumbers often stems from a genetic sensitivity to bitter compounds like cucurbitacin, perceived as soap, dirt, or compost, linked to the TAS2R38 gene, which makes some people highly sensitive to these flavors. This aversion can also be caused by digestive issues (gas, bloating from cucurbitacin/salicylates) or a strong reaction to its unique grassy/onion-like smell (2,6-nonadienol), leading to dislike even for those who don't find them bitter but find them overwhelmingly pungent.

 

[VPS]

There is a genetic reason why some people detest coriander:

Distaste for coriander (cilantro) is often genetic, linked to a specific olfactory receptor gene (OR6A2) that makes some people perceive its aldehydes as a harsh, soapy, or bug-like flavor, rather than the fresh, citrusy notes others enjoy. While genetics play a big role, environmental factors like early exposure, culinary traditions, and gradual desensitization can also influence this polarizing preference, with dislike more common in some ethnic groups.

I like coriander but I detest cucumber, also genetically-based:

Distaste for cucumbers often stems from a genetic sensitivity to bitter compounds like cucurbitacin, perceived as soap, dirt, or compost, linked to the TAS2R38 gene, which makes some people highly sensitive to these flavors. This aversion can also be caused by digestive issues (gas, bloating from cucurbitacin/salicylates) or a strong reaction to its unique grassy/onion-like smell (2,6-nonadienol), leading to dislike even for those who don't find them bitter but find them overwhelmingly pungent.

I keep telling people that it’s not because I’m fussy, but they just don’t get it

 

[Pushka]

(

There is a genetic reason why some people detest coriander:

Distaste for coriander (cilantro) is often genetic, linked to a specific olfactory receptor gene (OR6A2) that makes some people perceive its aldehydes as a harsh, soapy, or bug-like flavor, rather than the fresh, citrusy notes others enjoy. While genetics play a big role, environmental factors like early exposure, culinary traditions, and gradual desensitization can also influence this polarizing preference, with dislike more common in some ethnic groups.

I like coriander but I detest cucumber, also genetically-based:

Distaste for cucumbers often stems from a genetic sensitivity to bitter compounds like cucurbitacin, perceived as soap, dirt, or compost, linked to the TAS2R38 gene, which makes some people highly sensitive to these flavors. This aversion can also be caused by digestive issues (gas, bloating from cucurbitacin/salicylates) or a strong reaction to its unique grassy/onion-like smell (2,6-nonadienol), leading to dislike even for those who don't find them bitter but find them overwhelmingly pungent.

I get that soapy experience when I eat things like salt and vinegar potato chips. Anything brioche and all I taste is mould.

I coriander But I know people don't like it and it's not because they are fussy.

 

[Major]

I like coriander, but also looking forward to the food and all the details from this TR

 

[bPeteb]

Day 1,Jan 27, Brisbane-Sydney-Bengaluru

The best laid plans of bPete and bAl… Uber booked for 3:40am to get us to the airport with 30 minutes to spare before bag drop closure.

Up at 2:45 and downstairs waiting at 03.30 hoping they would arrive early but they didn’t actually arrive at all. Our first driver had cancelled right on 3 and no one else picked the fare up.


So with stress levels building I requested a didi at 02:45. and despite there being at least a dozen around the city, only one down the end of the Valley picked up the job.

In the car at 02:55. Standing in the service desk queue for international transfers at 03:15 with bag drop closing at 03:30. Phew!

No time for lounge so we went straight to the gate.

We pulled back five minutes early and I was very worried that my AirTag appeared not to have made it onboard

Our bus to Sydney


‘Breakfast’ was an egg and chorizo thing that was tasty but initially way too hot and very crumbly.


Landed nearly 30 minutes early and I was SUPER stressed. As I left the plane I asked the CSM and he said his AirTags are super unreliable and not to worry. He was right. I did another search as we took the transfer bus across to the international terminal and there were both of our bags together. Phew again.

No lines at security or immigration and we were in the First lounge not long after 7:45. Accepted the offer of some hilarious christmas pjs, in red, complete with a sparkly kangaroo. I might model them at some time during this trip



Coffee, yoghurt, eggs benny and some very spicy bloody marys.




Once we finished breakfast we moved to seats against the windows and had a glass of Lallier each



We wandered down to the gate before boarding was called and it was a bit of a mad house. Yet again, just like for our flight JNB in June, they did’t use the PA to call groups. Just shouted. Very bizarre. They policed the groups very clearly though and we were onboard in the first half dozen people

 

[bPeteb]

Yeh, yeh, once you fly business you’re ruined. Sure the seat is smaller and more cramped (ok, very cramped) but the service was great and we did not go hungry or thirsty.

Anyone else here seen these seats except when turning forward?



Plane spotting as we waited to take off


and just as we were climbing away from SYD


We took off on time at 9:30 and were given a bottle of water and a snack pretty soon after the seat belt sign went off. Albert, one of the cabin service supervisors came and welcomed me onboard.



Lunch was served at 11:30. Me chicken, bAlt vege, and both had a beer




Then we were offered and ice cream


and hot drink and a tim tam next run through (yes folks, that's a paper cup)



At 12:30 we were asked to close our blinds. We hadn't even crossed the coast of Australia so I left mine open until we did


I f’n hate this. It is the middle of the f’n day. Sure it makes it easier for the crew if everyone is asleep, and better for the people near the open blind to watch the IFE, but I don’t want to sit in a black cocoon. Rant over.

I watched all of Tucci in Italy, a very moving doco called Yurlu Country about the terrible contamination caused by the Wittenoom mine and the effects on one family, then another uplifting doco called Surviving Ohio State. What a difficult couple of shows to watch. Finished with Deadliest Catch.

Dinner was served about an hour out from BLR and we both had chicken, washed down with a beer. Nice serving dish eh?




We should have declined and left room for dinner at the hotel. It wasn't bad, we just didn't really need to eat it.

 

[bPeteb]

Descending into Bengaluru


We landed a few minutes early and as they’d connected two air bridges we were off nearly straight

Greeting committee



We’d completed our e-Visas (handy tip - use Edge in incognito mode) and our e-arrival cards. You don’t get a copy of the e-visa, just an e-mail showing status of granted. They need to see this email if you haven't printed it. Luckily I’d saved the email to TripIt. We weren’t asked for the arrival cards.

Our flash new Antler bags came out pretty quickly and we headed to the terminal transfer bus, as the Taj is very close to T1, the domestic terminal. We both reckon we could have just walked to the Taj but the bus made it easy. The Taj is across an elevated walkway from where the transfer bus dropped us off.

The Taj is two wings and you walk into the west wing where we were staying. I thought the reception area was a little small and it became apparent later that west is a little less grand than east

I booked a deluxe king and resisted all of the offers to upgrade to club rooms, east wing rooms, and suites.

Our room 468 was actually really nice. We thought it was big and the deluxe king is clearly the smallest room by some margin. Four 500ml bottles of water. Big window with a view, kind of, of a runway. Lots of international power points



we didn't bother


Once we’d caught our breathes we went across to the east wing where we had a look at the very nice pool and then down to the lobby bar of the very grand east tower that was in full Christmas mode.



yes, that is really gingerbread!



After a few soothing Kingfishers (sorry fellas, forgot photos)



we went back to the room as it was getting quite late for us

that's Terminal 1 between west and east



Inextricably we ordered room service. We did honestly think we were ordering a couple of snacks. Instead, this arrived. It was all set up and the coughtails handed to each of us!



Blimey. Quesadillas, chicken kotthu parota and two very delicious gin and curry leaf smash coughtails. Everything was bloody delicious and there was too much. It was also way past midnight Brisbane time and we both fell asleep eating.

What is this ridiculous sport?



Day 1, done.

 

[kookaburra75]

MrsK and I are onboard and following along. Enjoy your time.