Planes trains and automobiles - USA summer, are we mad?

[Hvr]

It has become a tradition for rafters on the river to moon the Cali Zephyr as it passes. And they did. Many, many full moons. Hilarious.

I can see why you cracked up.

Am loving your trip report, so much fun and detail.

 

[bPeteb]

Would love to see some photos of the sleeping / seating arrangement if you have them

Hi Zig

We're usually so good at taking photos of rooms but on this occasion really dropped the ball on detail of the roomette.Following are some of ours, and some I may have appropriated from the interweb

On all three trains we were allocated roomette 2 at time of booking. For Zephyr 2 we were told by the conductor while waiting for the train at SLC station we'd moved to 9. If you look at the plan there's a space beside one seat (closest to hallway) and a box beside the other.



If you look at the plan there's a space beside one seat (closest to hallway) and a box beside the other.

For Capital Ltd and Zephyr 1 this was a hanging cupboard but on Zephyr 2, that seemed older, it was a narrow seat height 'slot' that we could put our flip flops into and rest camera bags on top of (source interweb). We didn't use the hanging cupboard



the 'box' beside the other seat is the step to the upper bed (interweb)



plenty of leg room if you sit with your legs kind of between, or to the side of each other. Table pulls up and out with two leaves. On the wall to the left (n the picture) of my head are controls for air, a personal light and the one and only powerpoint in the room. You can see where the upper bunk folds down. There was one solo traveller who had the bunk down for his trip. There were four personal lights - top and bottom at each end, but only one switch main compartment (same panel but of seat below picture was taken from)



Next image sourced from the interweb showing beds made up. We stored our carry on on the top step with backpack on top of it. It made use of step just ok but there was nowhere else for carry on to stay unless we left it down in luggage are on lower level (wasn't happening)

The safety net/harness is also below. Al said it didn't give him much confidence. Top bunk narrow. Both beds should have been made in the opposite direction. I'm sure the car attendant would do this if you asked



my picture that I finally remembered to take on the last morning



apart from the narrow hanging cupboard (or the alternative 'slot') and the step there was just about no usable storage space in the cabin. The upper bunk had a net along the side of the roof but during the day it wasn't accessible.

Upper bunk was also just a tad claustrophobic at night as the roof curved over the bed and there was no window. Source interweb



we had lunch (or dinner) with one couple who travel regularly and book two roomettes opposite each other. This way they have a view out both sides of the train and only sleep in the lower berth. It costs way less than a 'bedroom'.

Bedroom still has upper and lower berths but they go across the train instead of along it. It looked like the upper berth is as wide as the lower. They also have a tiny bathroom where the shower is over the top of the toilet. They weren't all occupied on the Capital Ltd, or the second Zephyr so I sneaked these pics





There was a single toilet on the upper level and three on the lower, along with the shower. I suppose some would not like using a shared shower but we had no issue. I grabbed this pic of the shower - small 'change room' and small shower. Towels were stacked up, with a bag of hard soaps, plus we had a couple of wash clothes in the compartment. I really wouldn't want to have been much bigger than my 178cm 100kg. Al is 173 and 70 so it was perfectly sized for him!

 

[zig]

We're usually so good at taking photos of rooms but on this occasion really dropped the ball on detail of the roomette.Following are some of ours, and some I may have appropriated from the interweb

Thanks for all the detail. Agree that the top bunk looks really claustrophobic, it wouldn't be my first choice.
Loved the mooning rafters

 

[ellen10]

Really enjoying your trip report and photos. Fuelling my passion for travel!

 

[drron]

I can see why you cracked up.

Am loving your trip report, so much fun and detail.

No this is what should have been playing on the train whilst travelling alongside that river.

We did see Andy Williams sing this in Las Vegas when we were very young!

 

[bPeteb]

Tuesday Salt Lake City-Jackson Hole-Yellowstone Old Faithful Inn

Al booked the shuttle to the airport before we went to bed last night. He had researched how long it would take to check in and go through security for each flight. All had taken less than expected. Nevertheless the shuttle was booked for 8:45am to get us to the airport by 9 for our 11am flight to Jackson Hole.

Breakfast is included at Holiday Inn Expresses and it was a decent spread. Best on show were the two different omelettes.







Although it’s called Airport East, and at the end of the road is the perimeter of the airport, I’m sure it took close to 15 minutes to get to the airport. We’d checked in and had mobile boarding passes so it was just bag drop. The charming customer service agent tried to sell us a credit card that would have given us an instant credit for the bag charges but I said we were from Australia. Somehow our accents aren’t strong enough, or different enough. It wasn’t the first time people hadn’t noticed. She asked did we know where she was from and I said her Hawaiian accent (and look) gave that away. She was so nice.

Security took less than 10 minutes. We were airside in I’d reckon 20 minutes with over an hour until boarding. SLC is a huge airport with very limited seating available except at the gates that we only ever try to go to in time for boarding.

We decided with the lack of anywhere else to sit we’d go to the gate but no sooner had we got there that they told us we had a gate change, to a whole different wing of the airport. SO off we all went.

The flight in was a bit late and this put our departure back 15 minutes.

The view over the lake that gives Salt Lake City its name was amazing, through the dirtiest window I’d ever tried to take pictures through. I’m sure someone had opened a can of lemonade into it. Sticky and just yuk.

I believe Delta were the first customer for the Bombardier C Series? What a bizarre story the lead to it becoming the A220









The flight to Jackson Hole is just 35 minutes in the air with 15 on the ground at SLC. You fly over the Grand Tetons and down into this amazing valley

 

[bPeteb]

To enter the terminal you walk though this crazy archway of elk antlers. Neither of us got a good picture but we made sure we did when we were leaving.



The view from the terminal was amazing





I’d booked a standard car. The upsell of ‘we don’t like people driving regular cars in Yellowstone’ is such a crock. We saw hundreds and n-one looked terrified. After the upsell failed he then upgraded us to a Hyundai Tuscon. Stupidly I accepted and of course then had to pay for their insurance as ours didn’t cover SUVs. That upgrade cost us nearly Oz $150!! We’re so weak.

Got out to the car and the outside was filthy. At least the inside was clean. Switched it on and back to the desk with a photo of a fuel gauge showing only quarter of a tank



He was fine – he wrote 'bring it back empty' and his staff ID on a card and we were on our way.

Just wow! The Grand Tetons border the valley to the left as you drive towards Yellowstone. Spectacular





An absolute classic of American design. As good now (nearly) as it was when first released



After fuelling up, just US32!!, we continued north. If you come to Yellowstone from the south you have to drive through Grand Teton National Park, a US35 contribution (that does last for seven days).

We got to the entrance to Yellowstone and there were two cars in front of us. That’s not what was there as we drove out four days later. Flashed our pre-bought entry pass (US35) and four days of amazingness began.

Yellowstone is epic. We didn’t switch on GyPSy as we were just going straight to Old Faithful, planning to stop at Grant Village for some supplies. Held up at roadworks for a while at one point. We knew there were roadworks around the park. They are between a rock and a hard place with maintenance – they can’t fix roads in winter, the most traffic is in summer. It is what it is.

Stopped for roadworks. Lots of cars with these weird racks hanging off the back. They hid the number plate, had no lighting or reflectors. Super dangerous



BISON!!



South Entrance Road follows the Lewis River, just beautiful and skirts Lewis Lake, also beautiful. The southern tip of Lewis Lake also marks the southern boundary of the Yellowstone Caldera. Yellowstone was a giant volcano and is not building back up to be a super volcano of the future.

 

[bPeteb]

Bit more scenery on the way to Grant Village







We did stop at Grant and bought a few bits and pieces including some fruit and a hilarious packet of chips that looked more like a pillow. The lady at the register explained that it was the high altitude that made bags like the chips expand. You drive across the continental divide just south of Grant and it’s just a smidge under 8000 feet. As you turn west towards Old Faithful you get to just under 8400 (approx. 2600m). A tad less than the 4500m+ we got to in western China last year!

One thing I noticed here, and all though the park, was that most of the ‘fast food’ outlets, especially ice cream counters, were staffed by young Chinese. I’m only guessing when I say they are possibly on student holiday visas. Xanterra, who runs all of the lodges and concessions throughout Yellowstone might also have some Chinese stakeholders.

The delicious ice cream selection available at Grant Village General Store. A shake that needed a spoon was tasted



More compostible (able?) plastic. Why isn't it used here?



The expensive free upgrade...







Very close to Old Faithful, somewhere near the Kepler Cascades



the traffic came to a stop. People in the car in front actually pulled themselves out and sat on the door. Down low through the wheels I saw some the bottom of some elk legs. Animals bring this place to a stop very quickly.

 

[bPeteb]

I missed the very tiny sign (all signs are tiny in Yellowstone) to Old Faithful Inn and parked in the huge lot between the Inn and the Lodge. There was a big storm brewing. The raindrops were like 10c pieces! Al decided we’d need the umbrellas and ran back to the car to get them. He got back though the doors of the Inn just as the heavens opened. Then the hail joined the rain. It was crazy.

We’d booked our Yellowstone accommodation last October and even then the room and cabin types we had to choose from were limited. At Old Faithful we chose the Old House Room without bath (as the ones with bath were all gone). It was US$185.77 incl for the night.

I’m not sure why I thought it would be outside the main building but our room was literally just a few metres along the hallway from the incredible lobby/centre atrium or whatever the space is called. Noisy? A little? Private? Well if you opened the curtains and windows you had the main drive a few metres in front of you. Fantastic? ABSOLUTELY!

The directions weren't too hard to follow. We were in room 3.







Quick access to the carpark



Steps up to the bathrooms



radiator detail



so much more than a lobby





then there's the outside

 

[bPeteb]

We moved the car into the Inn’s carpark, unloaded our bags, and went for a wander around the thermal park







Old Faithful had done its thing while we were checking in so we timed out walk to catch it’s next regular 90 minuteish blow. We’ve seen a few thermal areas around the world, including NZ and Iceland, and yes it’s iconic, but Old Faithful’s just another geyser.



For us the star was the incredible inn. Just wow.







We had a few drinks at the bar after making a reservation for dinner (9:30!) in the Dining Room, did some people watching – there were many, many Griswald families visiting, listened to a very loud Aussie big note himself across the whole room from the bar (groan).

 

[bPeteb]

Our server somehow managed to get us a table in the restaurant an hour early. His tip reflected our thanks. The restaurant is as beautiful (if you like humungous log cabins) as the lobby it is built off. Dinner was excellent. We both had a pork shank strangely named Osso Buco. It was HUGE. Because we could we then ordered dessert, and a coughtail to follow our earlier beers, and the bottle of wine we had over dinner.















back to that lobby





the incredible fireplace actually had eight openings for fires

 

[bPeteb]

Wednesday Old Faithful-Roosevelt Lodge

The showers were in a shared bathroom upstairs. If you do book Old Faithful, and choose the same room type, a better choice would be second floor.

Breakfast in the dining room was buffet with a la carte also available. No pictures, no internet, forgot phones.

Old Faithful is just there above the car



the fire engine red of the huge doors isn't quite right



we're both so glad we came to Old Faithful. For us it was all about the inn. Definitely one of my top five highlights



our room in the centre down on the ground floor





We were on the road early as it was a long day of driving to get to Roosevelt over in the north east corner of the park.

We switched GyPSy on as soon as we started the car. Best app ever!! Works offline, and that’s good, cos we had pretty much no mobile coverage with our T-Mobile sim the entire time we were there. The app just uses GPS. Tracks you perfectly. He recommends stops, some are must stops, some are ‘if you have time’ stops. Gives you a running history of different aspects of the park. If it sounds like he never shuts up that wasn’t the case. Al has a bad habit of having his face buried in his phone as we travel. It used to be in maps. GyPSy was brilliant. Al had no choice but to actually look around at the amazing scenery as we drove through Yellowstone.

We stopped as Biscuit Basin just outside of Old Faithful

 

[bPeteb]

followed by Grand Prismatic Spring. Traffic at Grand Prismatic was chaotic so we parked off the side of the road past the carpark and walked back. GyPSy had suggested stopping at a place a little way back and taking a walk so you could look down on the colour of Grand Prismatic. Should we have taken the walk? Maybe, but there’s so much to see and like I said we had a long drive.













Great Fountain and Fountain Paint Pot.

 

[bPeteb]

Thermal after thermal. Lots of beautiful clear blue pools full of very hot water. Bubbling mud. Steam vents. We passed through Norris Geyser Basin but didn't stop due to the jam at the car park. We stopped at Roaring Mountain where we walked near to the top of the trail and turned back.

More beautiful cascades/waterfalls.I can't remember what this was called. It was a one way round that led past some cascades but was also one of the two or three places you could swim in water that was warmed by springs. Kind of tempted to stop, but didn't.





The traffic came to a halt again and slowly crept forward. This time, a bison, posing for the crowds. Rangers again shouting at people to not stop. Again, we didn't.



Before dropping down to Mammoth we crested a ridge of crazy rocks that looked like they’d be torn apart.





and the valley below



Mammoth Hot Spring Terraces. Again we parked on the road to avoid the carpark traffic jam.

Spectacular. From beside the upper terraces

 

[bPeteb]

more from the upper terraces













you wouldn't believe how many of that crowd are French!



from the carpark below them



In the words of Paul Hogan - you call that an RV? THIS is an RV!

 

[bPeteb]

them and then when you get to the overly crowded, overly touristy town, from below the terraces from a different angle.







The town itself is even built on ancient terraces.

I’m being a bit mean to the town. It’s actually quite picturesque, especially the complex of national park buildings – admin and homes







One thing I noticed during our travels were Jehovah Witnesses witnessing in the oddest places - airport arrivals, train station platforms and here in Mammoth Springs two elderly gentlemen out in the middle of a park.



It is also somewhere elks love to lounge around in. Elks are big, and mums with babies are dangerous. A bunch of them had decided the lawns around the clinic would be a nice place to rest





Orange cones marked the boundary of how close you could get. We shared a very dry and ordinary sandwich for lunch. No concept of a sandwich with lettuce, or tomato, or carrot – just meat and cheese on dry bread or rolls.

The only beaver we got close to, in the Mammoth Springs visitor center

 

[zig]

Stunning photos!
I used the Gypsy app on the Icefields Parkway and thought it was great.

 

[VPS]

Absolutely stunning photos - Yellowstone is on my bucket list (but the list is immense) - great TR

 

[bPeteb]

After lunch we headed east to Roosevelt Lodge. It was only 29 very beautiful kilometres.

Al’s first 'bison in the distance' sighting turned out to be a sign on the side of the road. It was a long way away. Easy mistake



Another beautiful waterfall





we stopped at small circular walk with lots of stops with boards detailing plants and animals of the area. Sadly no wolves in sight...









We decided to veer off the main road onto the one-way unsealed Blacktail Plateau Drive. The sedan we’d booked would have had no issue with the road but it was of course more comfortable, and safe, in an AWD SUV.

My non-animal sighting - GIANT bear

 

[bPeteb]

After rejoining the loop road we were directed by the GyPSy to turn off to check out the petrified tree. It only added a few minutes. Worth the stop? For me, no





Roosevelt Lodge apparently books out quicker than any other and its proximity to the Lamar Valley is the reason. This is Yellowstone’s wildlife mecca. We booked a ‘roughrider cabin’ although there were none in any of the drawers I looked in. It was US$113.39.







I’m just looking at the booking and it says ‘with shared bath’ but it didn’t and we didn’t it expect it to. The cabins use a shared washhouse with just two toilets and two showers in it. Woefully inadequate for the number of cabins surrounding it. Needed a torch to get there at night. A frontier cabin, that has it’s own bathroom, would have been preferable, especially if you were there for more than a night.

storms rolling across Yellowstone



A rocking chair and a beer. Perfect!



As I was checking-in I overheard mention of wolves not too far away eating a carcass, and I was sure the carcass mentioned was that of a grizzly. Whoever it was mentioned to replied with that would be two big ticks – wolves and a grizzly.

Dawn and dusk are the prime animal spotting times so we had an early dinner





Bison burger. Very appropriate



and then drove down into the Lamar, literally starting out the gates of the lodge and straight across the road. Sunset was 8:30 and sunrise at 6ish.