Peru & Ecuador. Machu Picchu and a Galapagos cruise with a side of southern USA

[Gladstone Tim]

Loving this smckay …the insights, reflections and experiences. Thank you!

 

[smckay]

Day 17 - Saturday

What a night. Rock and roll most of the night. Plus engine noise. Plus waves crashing against the hull. No sleep in Cabin 3.

When researching this cruise I did notice a number of catamarans on offer, and forum talk seemed to prefer them. I can now say that I think a cat is going to be less affected by the small swells that are pretty well present all over the Islands. Little things like moored for meals the boat will have a side to side rock that does get to me some times, especially as we’ve only been on decent sized ships previously.

But the Cat fleet seem to be lower rent propositions with itineraries that didn’t suit.

No breakfast set up today due to the Stupid O’clock start but we did get poor muzac played too loud at 0530.

Up and at them as they say so by 0600 14 of the 16 pax (the French females have declined all water sports) were on the back deck suited up to swim with the fishes at Chinese Hat off the Island of Santiago. Which is very aptly named.


If you are Snorkelling at this time, the dumb thing to do is to put a test finger or hand in to the water to assess the temperature. So, being dumb I tested the water. And as the memes go, it was at that time he realised he had stuffed up.

Last one in the water and it was very refreshing. But the water life was good and we saw many fishes, sea lions, and topography.

We were in about an hour floating, swimming and looking and by the time we returned back to the boat I was cold enough to get in the shower. Except said shower contained MrsMacca who protested the intrusion.

Breakfast was then served which was a leisurely affair as all we had to do today was to go and gas up the boat back in Baltra. Our Naturalist gave a talk on the evolution of Galapagos which I half tuned into and then it was lunch time.

Today we had beef roast, pork riblets, chicken pieces and some rather tasty smoked jalapeño sausages. Plus salads and cheese.

The chef excels with his salads, they are always fresh, very tasty and not really repeated.

The meats were all tender.

During lunch the top 1% turned up. If not familiar with the term top 1%, seek out Kennedy Steve on YouTube.


After the boat was fed and so too the passengers, we then went over to Santa Cruz Island for a bit of a Zodiac ride through the mangroves. This was better than expected as the drivers shut off the engines and then paddled us around for an hour or so. We saw turtles, baby sharks and fishes.

Coming out of the cover we sat and watched the Blue Footed coughies feeding. These are quite large birds that cruise the skies at heights of about 50-100 metres and when they spot a fish they dive and go straight into the water. Quite impressive when you see both the action and the speed.

After 2 hours we were back to the boat for briefing and dinner but not before watching a romantic sunset.

Treats provided today were empanadas with a choice of chicken (which looked and tasted like beef) and cheese.

Dinner was Italian themed- spaghetti, meatballs, salads but no garlic bread.

It was also awkward for some. Turns out Ernesto our German self-confessed bird nerd can speak fluent French and after one of the French ladies got in his photo zone he dropped a pleasant ‘thank you’ in French.

Which escalated into a bit of a word match with husbands defending ladies honour and accusations of photo real estate being corrupted by each other. This was relayed to us after the fact by Ernesto so we missed all the action.

Knowing this I tried to manipulate the table we had been sitting at to have 2 chairs free but the others were happily ignorant of the emerging international crisis and Ernesto and his wife had to sit amongst the least favourite group.

It’s been a bit of a trend to try to avoid seats at the unFrench table but now it’s become a pro level game.

The lights in the cabins do not go out. They stay lit to a very soft night-light like brightness which in theory is a great idea for nocturnal movements, but in practice it keeps the cabin too light for us and is a bit annoying. They even stay on in the shower.

The boat is not large but has 9 cabins. In case I’ve not revealed it, it is Royal Galapagos Natural Paradise. The main deck which our cabin is on has the dining area with 2 tables of 8, and this also has a brewed coffee station and a espresso machine that only the bar tender seems to use, a bench with sugar laden snacks for that quick energy fix, which also houses the wine then down two steps to the lounge and bar.


The junior suites are probably good value as they are larger, lighter and have doors opening to the balcony out the back. We were offered a deal on one of these but took the cash discount over the upgrade.


Lights out at about 2045. Been a big day and all the over-50’s passengers are feeling the 6th day of action.

 

[smckay]

Day 18 Monday.

The final full day.

Well, what a night. Rock and Roll hit Natural Paradise big time overnight.

Whilst not waves, we had some big fat swells and the boat was rocking side to side and rolling front to back. Plates, cups, glasses were crashing to the floor all night long. It sounded like a Greek wedding. Not that I’ve been to a Greek wedding but I have seen the highlights reel.

Obviously, breakfast talk all revolved around the drama with some excitement. Adding further to the table talk cabin 2 air conditioning had leaked into Cabin 4 directly underneath and caused a rainfall of water. The lady from cabin 4 is a very blunt knife and was a bit concerned. I nearly spat out my muesli when she asked her hubby if the maintenance people ought to be told about an air conditioning issue in their cabin the day before. Hello, there’s 11 crew on the boat and 2 of them are maintenance so I think they may be across it.

Breakfast today consisted of a spicy sausage cut into coughtail pieces, chicken tamales and fritters of tortilla flour - which tasted better than I’ve made them sound.


Hankering for some cereal as well a few bits of snag and reconstituted tortilla, I used the last of the plain yoghurt on the boat and MrsMacca too’ Clare of the strawberry yoghurt. Not sure what the plan is for tomorrow.

On the zodiacs at 0830 for a nature walk around Espanola, particularly exciting as it has the only pink iguana in the island group we set off for the landing site.

Which was right beside this.

Cormorant II hit rocks about 0330 on March 6 2025 and has stayed there ever since.

What is very interesting, actually concerning is there are no booms around it to retain contaminants (unless they have been discharged already) and there is visible oil on the rear of the vessel.
As it is operated by the same company as our boat, information from the crew is tight. But one crew member said he thought the captain was asleep.

We had been given stern instructions to only apply insect repellant on the boat not on the island due to contamination (advise ignored by the French crew) but they are happy to allow an environmental disaster happen in real time.

BTW I think it will be a write off. As stated, the engine room hatch is open and waves are going in, the main saloon has sliding doors ripped out of their frames, most doors including the bridge are open, some of the comms masts are broken and it just looks a mess. They have a fishing boat nearby as security and when we left the island a zodiac did dispatch over to make sure no one was lifting anything valuable. It will be a difficult salvage as the waves are reasonably large and constant and it is stuck on the rocks. Some big waves are not even moving it.

Again, another warm and high humidity day.

But mere metres from landing we see sunning himself a pink iguana, on the beach are 2 sea lions, and one is in the middle of the trail entrance kicking back then once you have another scan there are iguanas all over, crabs are scuttling around and birds are nearby. Talk about under promise and over deliver.


Photos taken we set off on the trail. The briefing from last night pointed out that the rocks were very rough and random and should only be attempted by agile human beings. If you could not handle the first 50 metres just like a game show you were out. They were not too bad with plenty of sand and space between them but some points were a bit gnarly. If you could get in and out of a zodiac off the back of a boat, and do a wet landing then you would be fine. If neither of those then your choice of holiday should be revised.

Lizards abounded on this island. In fact there were so many I nearly trod on some as they literally littered the ground. Lava lizards are dominant here and have different types. We were probably given a description but I was too far back to know (see day 17).

Birds also call this island home. I’ve not been to a place where albatross just plop themselves down any old where to nest or rest. You also really need to watch where you are walking or you will literally walk on a lizard.

The animals are not scared of us, rather then watch us with a bit of a wary look. However this place is quite heavily trafficked with tourists I suspect there may come a time where they see us as danger.

But today no such issues. As we walked in a loop around the island we saw multiple bird nests, or simply places where they rested. Albatross, blue footed coughies, small birds they were all hanging out here.


One of the most awe inspiring sight was standing well above a natural rock pool on a cliff and viewing the daily happenings in the sea iguana world. They were floating around, lazing, eating algae, trying not to get battered by the waves coming in and generally just living. The odd one out was a fish who had managed to get in, possibly by a large wave. I don’t think he is getting out of there as there was no clear passage for a fish to swim out.


Crabs are also all over the place from brightly coloured versions to a rather dull rock colour specimen.

Moving on we went through the vegetation of the island looking at birds, lizards, albatross in the path and insects.

Back to the start point with nothing broken or dislodged, a few quick snaps of the seals playing it up for the humans and back to the boat for lunch. Arriving at 1115 we had until 1230 to rest up.

Treats today were empanadas and yuca bread and went down a treat.


I suspect most people had a siesta as the boat was very quiet after boarding and the next activity was to be snorkelling at 1330 but a pod of dolphins decided to turn up and played alongside. There was a lot of them and as it was raining I kind of stayed in side which was a shame as a I took an excellent shot of one dolphin emerging from the water whilst just behind him one was fully curved out of the water.

Lunch today - the last one on board - comprised potatoes, root vegetables, snapper in a cream sauce and a chicken lasagna. Salads were bucket loads of avocado slices in a lemon dressing with onion, small red tomatoes with basil dressing and cucumber and a Caesar salad with most of the Caesar stuff missing. Dessert was a simple fresh fruit mix that was actually fresh fruit.


The snorkelling activity promised a bit as the site was supposed to be good. The rain persisted as we zodiac’ed out and jumped in. The spot we got in at was a fair distance for:t he island we were going to and in much deeper water than we’d had before. But, the water was clear and still and we could see very well.

It was cool and the idea was to float with the current and not expend energy. Being in deep water really doesn’t give you great viewing as the fishes we want are close to the rocks. We did see a ray float by, and just about I was about to give up we turned towards the island and started seeing a good variety. The fish were not a colourful as other sites and some were the same but it was interesting and better than being in a training course.

After roughly an hour, and a drop in body temp of about 1 degree we clambered back into the zodiacs for the ride back to the boat. 20 minutes after getting on the next activity was due at 3pm; a walk and look at the beach. As it was still raining, we were tired and a bit depleted we didn’t go and spent the time starting to pack our bags.

5pm sharp Gustavo started his briefing but with the added extra of showing a presentation of pictures and videos he had taken over the week. It was very well done and had some good scenes, especially the pictures snorkelling where he looked up and shot us floating above fish, all in a black and white sepia tone. Normally shooting into light just makes a big white flash but this was well done.

He also gave it to all of us as a present which was nice, he would have spent some time cutting the clips and formatting it all. Even if it was a template there would be work in selecting the pictures and videos.

We also received a nice certificate stating we had crossed the equator, and the crew had determined the nick names we should have. Unsure if they were referring us by them during the cruise but it was a nice touch. I was given the name of white tipped shark. MrsMacca received the opposite wing named black tipped shark.

All of us were named after the animals seen on the cruise, so I think nothing personal was intended.

The French received blue footed and red footed coughies (birds) for the ladies and the man got a turtle and shark for the men. Kinda on the money.

Next was the cruise director briefings on tomorrow’s disembarkation. Our bags are to be outside our rooms by 0730 and everything we want taken to the airport can be left outside the door. So we just need a backpack or handbag to tide us over for the morning. The flight leaves at 1300 so we’ll be off the boat at 0845 meaning 2 hours to peruse the town.

The last activity is a 1 hour walk on San Cristobal Island tomorrow starting at 0600. Supposed to be easy and as it’s early hopefully we won’t sweat a lot. Not wanting to do 6 hours travel all sweaty.

The last dinner was not anything special with choices of rice, beans & onions, turkey, crumbed shrimp, and salads. The turkey was so tender and moist you really don’t think it has been made on board. Our chef Oswaldo knows how to cook that’s for sure.

Dessert was ice cream bowls.

And that was it. Nearly 8 days done, lots of walking, swimming , looking, pictures and bumpy nights.

 

[smckay]

Day 19 - Tuesday.
Last day on the boast and end of the Galápagos Islands.

Not a bad sleep, as we motored North with the current leaving at 2000 and did some boat surfing, so the ride was acceptable, arriving in San Cristobal about 0100. Around 5am the boat came alive and the anchor was raised and we moved for some reason.

The day dawned a bit dark and cloudy so whilst the alarm went off around 0545 we lay in our comfy warm bed and debated the pro’s and con’s of hauling ourselves off the boat.


MrsMacca had twisted her elbow and torn some tendons a few years back, and whilst enjoying the beach and waves at the beach bar (and wondering what the poor people were doing) she got dumped by a wave and landed on her ankle. So she’s been hobbling a bit with an ankle strap, and decided that the risk vs. reward factor was too high so decided to sit it out. For me I wasn’t fussed, Gustavo had already told us we won’t see anything thing different in wildlife.

Breakfast was nothing special either; bacon, chicken tamales, tortilla fritters and fruit.
I went a bacon sandwich x 2 and then thought I ought to balance it so had some fruit.

Whilst we were at breakfast the room crew had been in and reconfigured our room to single beds. No time wasted here.


The bed was actually quite comfy. Being 2 queens the regular seam in the centre wasn’t an issue and what sleep we did have was comfortable. 2 pillows were supplied but both were a bit too soft and plump for us.

The bed covers were light enough to be homey but warm enough to keep us toasty when needed.

The room did get hot without the air con running so it was on most of the time, usually around 22-24 degrees.

At 0830 the call went out to leave the ship so we all assembled for the last time and boarded the zodiacs for a short run to the dock. El Capitan was there to see us off, and probably no surprise the bar tender was too. Some people got to know him very well and left a bit of currency with him.

On the way over I asked the second mate if a catamaran is a benefit. In his broken English and my broken Spanish I understand that in calm speaks they are good but in rough water the waves smack the bottom of the boat making noise. As most Cats are 2 levels I would risk going on one to be a bit more stable. The engine noise and crew noise are the unknown factor but.

Arriving at the dock we were greeted by sea lions by the metre. We could have stayed here on land and walked to the sea front each day. They were everywhere. I watched 2 smaller ones play in a small pond behind a break wall. These two were having great fun twisting and turning, biting and grabbing each other with their fins and making an enjoyable way to waste some time.

With a couple of hours to kill we hit the tourist trap of Main Street.


I am a tee shirt aficionado and buy tee shirts with a motif from every where I go. So the hunt was on for a suitable souvenir. After looking at a few shops we determined that they all have the same stuff so it came down to colour and price. The cheapest we saw for a tee shirt was $10USD for the run-out styles in limited sizes to $35USD for a custom on-the-spot print. Most shops ran between $14-16 with some creeping up to $20. So, I bought a nice version for $14 off a side street shop.
We also saw the local fish trading in action. Cuppla blokes in a Ute, toot the horn and the shopkeepers com exit for the day’s specials.


1045 swung around and we hopped the bus for the literal 6 minute drive to the airport. The bags had been delivered to the airport seperate and so the Sous Chef was sitting there all alone guarding them.

Check in was pretty easy - through security (forgetting the toothpaste tube in carryon, but being allowed through) on to the tourist commission to have the $20USD tourist fee card cancelled (but returned so a nice reminder) and then out to the single large in-cooled gate area.

Right beside the exit from security and tourist there was a nice Priority Pass sign. So, gave them the membership number, and went into the air conditioned space. It’s a small joint with a 48 person capacity, no self serve stuff at all. You need to wait for the hostess to come over and tell you what you can have (tea, coffee, water, iced tea, chicken sandwich, chocolate cookie but nothing else. You gots to get your wallet out for that option.


Later that night in Quito MrsMacca was checking her card and saw that she’d been charged $55 (AUD? Too scared to clarify) for the pleasure. She then realises she gets 2 free entry per year and we used them back in somewhere. As a non-frequent flyer she knew we got into a PP lounge gratis, but not that it was on a LATAM flight in PE and we were entitled.

Lucky all lounges now on are One World so all bank accounts are safe.
The iced tea was tasty, the chicken sandwich also but not 55 bucks tasty.

Boarding commenced and we were again in Avianca Plus seats so got to got on first and score some overhead bin space. Others were not so lucky and so started the bag shuffle.

Avianca give you nothing in terms of refreshment, the miserable sods so we sat for the first leg to Guayaquil bolt upright jammed into our space. No one was on the aisle seat for this leg so at least we had leg room as the bags went under the empty seat.

In Guayaquil I cracked open a bag of potato chips filched from the LATAM Santiago lounge, and a can of ginger ale lifted from the Hobart lounge. Can’t say I don’t get value from these lounge visits.


After a scrum resembling humanity finished boarding we were off for the short 30 minute hop. The crew were on auto pilot as they announced Premium Economy seats were free and you could upgrade for points or cash. By the time you finished paying we’d be on the downhill slide.

The airport is a strange design. Arriving pax walk around the outside of the terminal, in our instance from one side to the other but crossing over the doors for departing pax. At one point we were stopped so a wheelchair could be pre boarded. Makes you wonder, they do not check boarding passes at the door so what’s to stop the dazed and confused jumping another plane for a free ride?

Moving along, our bags came out within the first dozen and we went out to the arrivals hall to find Emily, the excellent company rep waiting there for us with a sign.

Of the 14 people on the boat, the Germans stayed in San Cristobal for further Bird Nerd stuff, the two American friends jumped on a Cessna from San Cristobal to go to one aunts place somewhere in Ecuador, one American couple were going on a tour from Quito, leaving 3 couples and the French. One American couple were staying that the Wyndham airport as were we, the Victorians were headed back to Quito city to stay at the Swissotel as they had left their large bags there and only took small cabin bags for the boats (some smart thinking there).

The French left the situation without a word or sighting.

The Wyndham is mere minutes drive from the airport and has a 24 hour shuttle that runs each half hour, on the hour. It’s another Chinese special bus with about 14 seats.


Emily accompanied us to check in to make sure all was good. She is a very good representative of Royal Galapagos.

We received a room on the top 4th floor, but despite asking for a quiet room (reinforced by Emily’s Spanish) we got a room facing the 4 lane highway. When will it end?


The room was large, King bed, large ensuite and walk in shower but it had traffic noise. Too over it to do anything we put up with it. It turned out they did look after us - the road noise went down to about a car an hour after 10 pm where the rooms at the front would have the noise from the export site across the road that were receiving trucks loaded with fresh flowers all night.

We went down to have a bite in the restaurant and faced a dilemma. Do we go burger and chips for 21 bucks or the full buffet for 29 bucks? Jet lag, sleep lag or just plain stupidity took over and we both went the buffet.

Plenty of choices, rice, verges, baked potatoes, pasta, spicy chicken and beef in mushroom sauce was just one line. Then we had turkey - probably dry as heck as it was sitting under a heat light uncovered - a DIY pizza station, turn left and there was breads, some cheeses and about 10 mini cake choices.


In the centre of the room was ceviche and salads. Drinks included were iced tea - not as good as the $36 version at San Cristobal - and mint flavoured water.

So a few platefuls of the assorted goodies and we were done.

Lights out at 10pm and alarms set for 0250.