Oh Babushka - trips within a trip - Thailand, UAE, Oman, Spain, Portugal, UAE again, Sri Lanka and Singapore

With his TR I couldn't help thinking of @Seat0B when I saw this.
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This is exactly what it’s like to be an expat’s mum @drron. I am so proud of both my kids, and they are living their best lives. But I get to see my daughter regularly and frequently. Seat Son regularly - but usually only once or occasionally twice a year. It’s hard.
 
Don’t you those serendipitous finds. I just had a look to see where it was on the map and it’s nowhere near all the places that I’m trying to visit next year but I’ve saved it anyway just in case.
Yes - in many ways it was the highlight of Portugal for me because of the unexpectedly beautiful and historic town. It certainly was a piece of serendipity and I’m so glad we went there.

Whenever we were talking to a Portuguese person, and said we’d visited Elvas, they always expressed surprise - “most tourists don’t know of this town” and commented on the history and beauty of the town.
 
Don’t you those serendipitous finds. I just had a look to see where it was on the map and it’s nowhere near all the places that I’m trying to visit next year but I’ve saved it anyway just in case.

Me too. I have a cruise that ends in Nice in July next year and a grand sweep through Spain and across to ... Elvas sounds a plan!
 
Saturday 7 Dec 2024 - Morning in Elvas Part 2

Our next stop was the Forte de Nossa Senhora da Graça. This was a spectacular classic pentagonal star shape fortress built between 1763-1792. It's perched on a hilltop with commanding views of the surrounds. It is one of the most amazing castles I have been to, in my opinion up there with Azlun in Jordan and Matsumoto and Himeji in Japan. It cost a modest EUR5 ea to tour the extensive grounds and look into the various parts of castle buildings. Unfortunately we were a bit pressed for time because we have to be in Lisbon for a walking tour by 1600 today, and as I mentioned in earlier posts, I had no idea how marvellous Elvas would be and we just simply did not allow enough time for this slightly hidden gem.


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The fortress looked spectacular against the clear blue sky.

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Sentry box overhanging the (now dry) moat

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Check out the view from the fortress wall, approaching the sentry box


Anyway, we hit the road to Lisbon - always leave wanting more - and took the A8. The drive was about 2 hrs to the city outskirts including a stop for a very nice coffee at a roadside stop (which in hindsight we did not really have time for), and then another hour for the last little bit. The motorway was not as crowded as yesterday, but the tolls were steep, with one of EUR 5.20, another of EUR2.50 and then the mother of all tolls and a harbinger of costs of tolls in Portugal at EUR 18.20!

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One of many toll points in Portugal

We had registered for e-tolls online, but were not really sure that it had worked as many people using international credit cards had reported getting fines despite having registered. In the end, we chickened out and just paid cash as we went.

We made it to our hotel, Sofitel Lisbon Liberdade, without navigation issues thanks to the combo of Google maps and our own TomTom GPS that Mr Seat 0A had brought from home. We have given up on the vehicle SatNav. We checked in and opted not to use the valet parking, rather to self-park 😲 - BAD IDEA. Quite a newbie mistake. Firstly, it took 10 minutes battling serious traffic to make it to the parking garage which was literally just behind the hotel. The we could not get the ticket machine to give us a ticket to raise the entry gate and I had to walk back to the front desk and ask for the gate to be raised - apparently the valets have a key card, and no-one but no-one chooses to self park, except crazy Australians! Then we slowly inched our way down an extremely steep and narrow ramp, until we found an extremely small car park. Despite both being confident drivers, we were a bit traumatised by the whole experience, and vowed to accept all offers of parking assistance in the future.

All in all, we had lost quite a chunk of time and were now under a fair bit of time pressure to make our walking tour with Ricardo. So e grabbed our supplies from the Elvas market, and hot footed it to the meeting point in Plaça de Camões. We made it in about 15 minutes, including walking up a very steep hill (known locally as Gloria) that most people ascend by funicular. I puffed a bit but was pretty happy with my fitness as it was quite a long, steep hike. Sat on the steps of the main sqaure in the late afternoon sun and ate our picnic lunch at 1545, listening to a bunch of uni students performing traditional Portuguese songs with tambourines to make the Salvos proud, and traditional flag swirling.

Caught our breath ready for what was promised as a 3 hour, 10,000 step, sunset walking tour of the highlights of Lisbon.
 
Saturday 7 December 2024 - Evening in Lisbon

met up with Ricardo and we have a small walking group of only 4 people, so that will be great! Ricardo shared so many interesting insights and facts and figures, that it is hard to know what to record here. So here are a few things that stuck with me:
  • Lisbon had a Moorish history for more than 400 years 711-1147, when it was re-claimed as Christian in the second Crusade.
  • This is the reason for all the tiled homes and shops, and the patterns on the tiles, which were originally Islamic and in brown colours. These have morphed into the multi-coloured tiles used today, and particularly into the beloved and famous blue and white tiles. Here is a selection of what we saw:

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  • In the 1400-1600s. Portugal was a great maritime trading nation, and people were very wealthy. This wealth was displayed by all the tiles used on the houses, and the huge amounts of gold used inside the churches. Much of the gold was sourced from Brazil, which was at that time a colony of Portugal.
  • On 1 November 1755, Lisbon suffered a significant earthquake, accompanied by a tsunami and followed by an enormous fire that consumed the wooden buildings of the city. The fire is said to have started from all the candles that were lit of All Saints Day (1 Nov), and the fire burned for a week. Most of the city was destroyed, and its reconstruction was funded by resources plundered from Brazil.
  • Portugal was neutral in WWII but was a hot bed of spy activity.
  • Portugal was ruled by the dictator Salazar from the 1920s until 25 April 1974, when he was toppled by a military coup, and Portugal became a democracy. This was known as the Carnation Revolution because a woman gave soldiers carnations to put on their weapons as a symbol of the desire to settle the coup peacefully.
So we walked up hills, and up stairs and back down again for almost 4 hours as dusk fell and the night lights began to twinkle, visiting many beautiful mirodouro (viewpoints) to see the lie of the land and the spread of the city. It was a fabulous walk that took in huge swathes of the city and gave us an excellent grounding of history and an orientation for exploration tomorrow. it was a "free" walking tour, but we were very happy to part with EUR50 for the tour.

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Scenes of Lisbon as the night progressively fell

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Street art by O Gringo, referencing the classic blue and white tiles

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Street art with found items by
Bordalo II

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One of the many street funiculars in Lisbon


Footsore, we retreated (yes on foot) to our hotel, where we found a small but very rich chocolate cake and a bottle of bubbles on ice to celebrate our 40th wedding anniversary (that was actually in November, butI told them we were celebrating, which we were 🤷‍♀️).

So that's what we had for dinner as we honestly could not face going out again. We will sleep well tonight.

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Today's steps: 22,588
Flights of stairs climbed: 35
Temperature - forgot to record it - mild but windy so I was glad to wear my puffer jacket.

Accommodation for 2 nights with breakfast EUR 571 (a bit of a splurge), parking EUR 64
 
Saturday 7 December 2024 - Evening in Lisbon

met up with Ricardo and we have a small walking group of only 4 people, so that will be great! Ricardo shared so many interesting insights and facts and figures, that it is hard to know what to record here. So here are a few things that stuck with me:
  • Lisbon had a Moorish history for more than 400 years 711-1147, when it was re-claimed as Christian in the second Crusade.
  • This is the reason for all the tiled homes and shops, and the patterns on the tiles, which were originally Islamic and in brown colours. These have morphed into the multi-coloured tiles used today, and particularly into the beloved and famous blue and white tiles. Here is a selection of what we saw:

View attachment 443335View attachment 443337View attachment 443338View attachment 443340View attachment 443341View attachment 443342
View attachment 443339

  • In the 1400-1600s. Portugal was a great maritime trading nation, and people were very wealthy. This wealth was displayed by all the tiles used on the houses, and the huge amounts of gold used inside the churches. Much of the gold was sourced from Brazil, which was at that time a colony of Portugal.
  • On 1 November 1755, Lisbon suffered a significant earthquake, accompanied by a tsunami and followed by an enormous fire that consumed the wooden buildings of the city. The fire is said to have started from all the candles that were lit of All Saints Day (1 Nov), and the fire burned for a week. Most of the city was destroyed, and its reconstruction was funded by resources plundered from Brazil.
  • Portugal was neutral in WWII but was a hot bed of spy activity.
  • Portugal was ruled by the dictator Salazar from the 1920s until 25 April 1974, when he was toppled by a military coup, and Portugal became a democracy. This was known as the Carnation Revolution because a woman gave soldiers carnations to put on their weapons as a symbol of the desire to settle the coup peacefully.
So we walked up hills, and up stairs and back down again for almost 4 hours as dusk fell and the night lights began to twinkle, visiting many beautiful mirodouro (viewpoints) to see the lie of the land and the spread of the city. It was a fabulous walk that took in huge swathes of the city and gave us an excellent grounding of history and an orientation for exploration tomorrow. it was a "free" walking tour, but we were very happy to part with EUR50 for the tour.

View attachment 443344View attachment 443345View attachment 443347View attachment 443351View attachment 443348View attachment 443346
Scenes of Lisbon as the night progressively fell

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Street art by O Gringo, referencing the classic blue and white tiles

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Street art with found items by
Bordalo II

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One of the many street funiculars in Lisbon


Footsore, we retreated (yes on foot) to our hotel, where we found a small but very rich chocolate cake and a bottle of bubbles on ice to celebrate our 40th wedding anniversary (that was actually in November, butI told them we were celebrating, which we were 🤷‍♀️).

So that's what we had for dinner as we honestly could not face going out again. We will sleep well tonight.

View attachment 443354

Today's steps: 22,588
Flights of stairs climbed: 35
Temperature - forgot to record it - mild but windy so I was glad to wear my puffer jacket.

Accommodation for 2 nights with breakfast EUR 571 (a bit of a splurge), parking EUR 64
I love the blue and white tiles - I want to go back to Lisbon and buy a heap and get them shipped home but the mind overruled the heart sadly
 
Sorry for out of order posting, but I found the photos of the Elvas market

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And the pervasive smell of bacalão - a signature scent of every Portuguese market and supermarket that we visited!

Plus here is a photo of the model of the Forte de Nossa Senhora da Graça, showing its distinctive pentagonal star shape.
 

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And also just to note how hilly it is in Lisbon - if you go there, be prepared to walk up and down stairs all day and night. Here are a few we traversed:

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Plus I also found some photos of the flag dancing students that I mentioned up thread. The black suit like clothing they wear is the uniform of a university student.

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Ok, I think I have caught up with the missing photos.
 
Sunday 8 December 2024 - Lisbon - We Walk Some More!

Enjoyed a lavish hotel breakfast today in a very crowded dining room. One of the waiters was especially kind and helpful with my coughpy attempts at Portuguese, and was surprised to hear that we came from Australia "oh so far away!"

We re-traced our steps from yesterday to visit the church of São Roque that we were unable to enter last night because of a mass taking place. Our guide had said it was plain on the outside (which it was) but exceptionally lavish on the inside (which it was)! The church was originally largely a pauper's church, and its main role was to provide a proper burial and church rites for the indigent during times of plague. It was subsequently taken over by the Jesuits, and over time, the various kings added chapels of great splendour and intricacy, using gold sent from Brazil, marble and incredibly intricate and detailed mosaics. It also houses a number of relics of saints. We learnt all this from another free tour - this time of the church, offered by the Jesuit society volunteer - a young woman from Egypt who came to Portugal for work and volunteers for the church. She wasn't even catholic herself - but followed Orthodox religion. I learnt a lot from her earnest and enthusiastic tour. Look at all that gold!

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After that, we caught the fabled no 15E tram to Belem. What a bucket of bolts!! It was the roughest tram I have ever been on, including the Societ era rollingstock we rode on in Bratislava in 2022! We rolled past the famous pastry shop selling Pasties de Belem - supposedly the original Pastel de Nata shop - which had an incredibly long line of people waiting to buy. Also passed the famous Geronimo monastery and the freedom statue. it was all absolutely rammed with tourists and we decided to give the up close and personal experience a miss and just view it from the tram. So instead of getting off, we rode to teh terminus about 10 minutes further, got off, and a few minutes later caught a much newer, better tram back the way we came.

Next up was a wander through the Alfama area, where I succumbed to tourist pressure and bought a couple of blue tiled cork backed mats for Seat Son and Almost DIL's kitchen. She has Portuguese heritage (grandparents), so I thought she might like them.

We also re-visited the famous Ginjinha shop we saw last night on our walk. It had a really long line, out the door and round the corner, so we skipped it.

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But when we went back today, it was very quiet, so we treated ourselves to a couple of shots of warm Ginjinha drunk standing in the square like locals, and a couple of Pastel da Nata from the neighbouring shop, which also claimed to be the best pastel in Lisbon! Think there are a few competitors for that crown!

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A few more tourist shots with the funicular (which we never managed to ride)

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And then an early dinner, which was actually served as late lunch at 1645!! Can't remember the name, just some little place that had a cheap and delicious local menu.

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Finished off with a trip to Aldi to buy seasonally available chocolate cups for drinking warm Ginjinha, at the special request of Almost DIL. We got a good haul of these for EUR 4 for a packet of 12 cups, and will contribute this to Christmas lunch (along with a bottle of the Ginjinha) in Dubai.

Another big day, and another early night. My stamina is improving but is honestly just not the same as it was pre-chemo. I hope it eventually comes back to how it used to be.

Steps: 18,603
Flights of stairs climbed: 27
Temp: 19 degrees.
 
Monday 9 December 2024 - Lisbon-Nazare-Obidos

A bit of light packing and then down to breakfast, where the dining room was much quieter than yesterday. Our waiter from yesterday beamed when she saw us and applauded my attempt to give the room number in Portuguese oito zero seito (remembering that all the "o" sounds on the end are pronounced "oo"). Gave us a great table by the window and kept checking in on us.

Finished packing and this time knew to accept the offer of having the valet to retrieve the car for us! Loaded up and off we went to Nazare. The city traffic was a bit to contend with, but Mr Seat 0A was equal to the task and soon we were once again on the A8, heading north. The tolls were much more reasonable today - only 2, for a total of EUR 7.50. The scenery was very pretty and the country side very greenLisbon 6.jpg

It was quite the challenge to find a parking spot once we arrived in Nazare, but we did eventually find one. We both remarked how crazy it must be here in the summer. I don;t really know where all the people from the cars went, because the town itself was a bit sad - very quiet, a number of shops shuttered for the season, and those that were open spruiking for business and trying to hustle the few passers-by inside the shops. I succumbed to pressure and bought some tea towels and aprons in classic Portuguese designs at extremely reasonably prices - much cheaper than in Lisbon, where I had looked at similar items. These will make great gifts.

Took a leisurely walk down towards the main beach and the view was totally spectacular.
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Continued on towards the famous big wave site Praia do Norte, the Forte de São Miguel at the base of the cliff and the Instafamous Lighthouse. It's hard to get a sense of how big the waves are, but if you look really hard in the distance of the photo you can see a few tiny specs - surfers walking on the sand. Still, it was not big wave season when we visited, and honestly, these waves were not spectacular. Spent a while watching kit surfers enjoying the very windy conditions.

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The old fort houses a little historical museum and a small but interesting museum dedicated to the big wave riders and to explaining the big wave phenomenon. it was quite interesting.

Took the obligatory selfie at the little lighthouse on the point.

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It was exceptionally windy on the way down and I was really glad to have my puffer jacket on.

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Some of the weathering on the pathway was beautiful

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At the top of the hill we treated ourselves to a Big Wave Burger EUR 9.50 ea, which were very tasty but messy to eat.

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Then we headed to our next overnight stop of Obidos, about 1 hr south of Nazare. This time, we took the back roads, which were pretty rural, and took us through several very small villages. The roads were like goat tracks, all twists and turns and although it was longer than taking the A8 back, it was much more interesting.

Our hotel for the next 2 nights is Hotel Vila D'Obidos, just on the outskirts of Obidos which is a fully walled town with no cars allowed. Tomorrow we will go to Sintra, and then on Wednesday we will visit the town walls and aqueduct of Obidos.

Our room is quite old fashioned with a lot of very dark furniture, and just one pillow per person. It feels very "off season". I forgot to take a photo.
 
Sorry for out of order posting, but I found the photos of the Elvas market

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And the pervasive smell of bacalão - a signature scent of every Portuguese market and supermarket that we visited!

Plus here is a photo of the model of the Forte de Nossa Senhora da Graça, showing its distinctive pentagonal star shape.
Market looks fantastic - I used to love bacalão but now I am allergic to it which is very annoying.
 

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