From Harbour Bridge to Golden Gate Bridge: 2–3 Years Living in the US

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The descent down the north side of the cone was far quicker (and a lot more fun) than the climb up. The loose volcanic gravel turned it into a controlled slide for most of the way down, each step sinking and skidding in soft cinders that sounded like crunching sand. It took maybe ten minutes to reach the base, compared to the forty-five on the way up.

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I rejoined the main trail heading toward Rainbow Lake. The path wound gently through open pine forest, the stillness of the trees a welcome contrast to the stark black slopes I’d just descended. After the effort of the climb, it felt good to stretch out on a flatter trail and simply enjoy the quiet.

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From Rainbow Lake, the trail continued south toward Snag Lake, descending gently through quiet pine forest. When Cinder Cone erupted in the mid-1600s, lava flows poured north and east, blocking natural drainage and forming both Snag Lake and the nearby Butte Lake where I had started earlier that morning.

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The trail from Snag Lake back toward Butte Lake traced a long, gradual climb through open forest before curving along the base of the Fantastic Lava Beds. From this angle, the lava looked even more dramatic - huge, jagged walls of rock rising straight out of the trees, frozen in place since the eruption of Cinder Cone nearly 400 years ago.

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The final stretch of the hike looped back past the base of Cinder Cone. I reached the car right on 2PM - tired, dusty, and more than ready for food. Lunch was a tuna wrap, classic hiker fare, eaten from the shores of Butte Lake.

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A long day, 22 kilometres all up, but easily one of the most memorable hikes I’ve done.

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But still, there was time for more.
 
Leaving Butte Lake, I bumped my way back along the six-mile gravel road to the main highway. From there, it was roughly an hour’s drive north to Burney Falls, a place I’d heard described countless times as one of California’s most beautiful waterfalls. The route wound through quiet pine forests and small mountain towns before rejoining Highway 89 near Old Station.

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By the time I reached McArthur–Burney Falls Memorial State Park, it was late afternoon. The light wasn’t ideal, but the falls were still spectacular. Entry to the park was $10 USD. ’d come mainly to experiment with long-exposure photography, and while the light wasn’t quite what I’d hoped for, the falls themselves didn’t disappoint: 129 feet of water spilling over moss-covered rock, with smaller streams seeping straight from the cliff face.

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It’s easy to see why Theodore Roosevelt once called it the “Eighth Wonder of the World.” I spent about half an hour walking the short loop trail.
 
As the light finally faded, I packed up and began the drive back toward Chester for dinner and, ultimately, some well-earned rest. Dinner was at Bing’s Lake Almanor Bistro, an unassuming spot on the main road that somehow manages to serve American, Japanese, and Chinese food all under one roof.

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Spoiler: No I did not get through all of that fried rice, but it was taken back to the lodge for dinner the following night.

By the time I got back to the lodge, I had clocked a massive 33,000 steps.

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After two full days of hiking and driving, I gave myself permission to sleep in - finally rolling out of bed around 8AM. Breakfast at St. Bernard Lodge did not disappoint: a hearty plate of eggs, toast, and their signature baked oatmeal with fruit, which was every bit as good as it sounds. I was feeling surprisingly fresh after the long hike the day before, but decided to keep things low-key with a couple of shorter walks back inside the park.

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The first outing of the day was the Crumbaugh Lake Trail, reached via Cold Boiling Lake and finishing off with the Twin Meadows Trail. The hike totalled about 8 km, winding through open meadows and patches of forest.

One thing that stood out throughout the day, and is evident in many of my photos, was the visible aftermath of the 2021 Dixie Fire. Large areas of forest along the southern part of the park still bear the scars of the burn, with stands of blackened trunks and open hillsides where dense pines once stood. It’s sobering to see the scale of the destruction up close, but also incredible to notice the signs of recovery.

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After lunch, I made one last stop at the Kings Creek Falls Trail, a gentle 4.5 km return walk that follows the creek through meadows before dropping into a shaded canyon. The trail ends at a viewing platform overlooking the falls, which tumble dramatically through a narrow rock chute - a great payoff for a short hike.

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And that's a wrap on Lassen. If there’s one word that sums up Lassen Volcanic National Park, it’s contrast. Nowhere else have I seen such striking juxtapositions - the black, barren slopes of Cinder Cone giving way to the green of young pines pushing through the ash; the violent legacy of ancient eruptions sitting quietly beside crystal-clear alpine lakes; the scars of the Dixie Fire still raw in places, yet already softened by the first signs of regrowth.

It’s a park shaped by both destruction and renewal - a landscape that’s constantly remaking itself. Every turn of the road or bend in the trail reveals something different: boiling mud pots and steaming fumaroles, still lakes and wide meadows, black lava and golden grass. Lassen may not have the fame of Yosemite or the grandeur of the Sierra, but it has a quiet power that feels more intimate, more alive, with the added bonus of few other visitors.

Three days here was just enough to scratch the surface, but it left a lasting impression - a place where fire and ice, creation and decay, all coexist in balance. Lassen is a reminder that nature’s most beautiful moments often emerge from its most dramatic contrasts.

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After three unforgettable days in Lassen, it was time to move on - this time heading northwest toward Crescent City to begin exploring the Redwood National and State Parks, before tracing my way back down the coast toward the Bay Area. The drive would take around six hours excluding stops, winding through mountains and forests before eventually reaching the Pacific Ocean.

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I left St. Bernard Lodge around 9AM, the morning still cool and clear, and began the long westward journey. My first stop was the Sundial Bridge in Redding, a striking glass-and-steel pedestrian bridge that spans the Sacramento River. Designed by Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava, the bridge doubles as a working sundial and makes for a great quick stop.

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From there, I joined Highway 299, which twists and turns its way through forested hills toward the coast. It’s a beautiful but slow road - narrow, winding, and constantly changing elevation. A short distance out of Redding, I pulled over at Whiskeytown Lake, part of the Whiskeytown National Recreation Area, to stretch my legs.

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