From Harbour Bridge to Golden Gate Bridge: 2–3 Years Living in the US

The next stop, across the road from the Bumpass Hell trailhead, was Lake Helen, sitting at 8,200 feet and named after Helen Tanner Brodt, the first woman to summit Lassen Peak back in 1864. The lake’s deep turquoise colour was striking against the surrounding peaks, and even in early October the air was crisp enough for small pockets of ice to form along the shoreline.

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Further north, I reached the Devastated Area, a stark reminder of Lassen Peak’s last major eruption in 1915. The short interpretive loop here passes through a landscape of jagged lava rocks, scattered boulders, and hardy pines slowly reclaiming the ground. The audio tour shared that these massive rocks were hurled miles from the volcano’s summit during the eruption - an almost unimaginable force when you see their size up close. The contrast to the lush meadows and alpine lakes earlier in the day was striking; this was Lassen’s raw, volcanic history laid bare.

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The final stop for the day was Manzanita Lake, at the northern end of the park. The contrast in scenery was incredible - what began with bubbling geothermal vents and alpine terrain had transformed into calm pine forests and reflective waters. The lake itself is picture-perfect, with Lassen Peak mirrored on its surface when the wind dies down. I did the short walk around the lake, watching kayakers glide across the water and enjoying the late afternoon light. It was the ideal way to end the drive - peaceful, quiet, and a reminder of just how varied this park is within such a short stretch of road.

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After finishing up at Manzanita Lake, I retraced my route south along Highway 89 toward my base for the next few nights, St. Bernard Lodge. Accommodation options near Lassen are fairly limited - the closest towns are Chester and Redding, both of which are a bit further away and would have added unnecessary driving time each day. St. Bernard Lodge sits just outside the park’s southern boundary, about a 15-minute drive from the entrance, making it one of the more convenient choices for exploring Lassen.

The lodge itself is a small, family-run inn with a rustic mountain feel - think timber walls, creaky floors, and a mix of local history and charm. Rooms are simple but comfortable, and the rate of USD $185 per night included a hearty cooked breakfast each morning, which was a nice bonus before heading out for a day on the trails. There are two shared bathrooms across the seven guest rooms, though this wasn’t an issue during my stay as the lodge wasn’t fully booked. Dinner is also available, though it needs to be pre-ordered the night before. I didn’t end up doing that, as I didn’t want to commit to being back by a certain time.

All in all, it’s a great spot if you want to be close to the park without sacrificing comfort. The owner, Sharon, was friendly, accommodating, and full of local knowledge.

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Dinner that night was at Timber House Brewery in Chester, just a short 15-minute drive from the lodge. I had the grilled chicken caprese sandwich, which was exactly what I needed to refuel after a long day on the road. Then it was back to the lodge for some rest ahead of an early start the next morning.

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It was a cold start to the day - about 42°F (5°C) when I left St. Bernard Lodge just before sunrise at 6:45AM and the air had that crisp, high-country bite that instantly wakes you up. I was heading for the Butte Lake Campground on the eastern side of Lassen Volcanic National Park. Compared to the southern and western approaches, this part of the park feels much more remote - there’s no direct road connection across the middle, so reaching it meant a long drive that looped around the outside of the park.

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A few minutes out of Chester, I pulled over at Lake Almanor to catch the sunrise over the water.

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From there the route followed quiet backroads through pine forest and small rural communities before turning onto the gravel Butte Lake Road. The final stretch was slow going, with about six miles of washboard gravel, but it was passable in my Kia K5 and added to the sense of adventure.

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I reached the Butte Lake Campground parking area just after 8:15 AM, ready for what would turn into a 22 km hike: from Butte Lake to Cinder Cone, continuing on to Rainbow Lake and Snag Lake before looping back.

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The trail began gently, following the edge of Butte Lake through a sparse pine forest before curving into the open lava fields. Within minutes, the landscape shifted dramatically - black volcanic rock as far as the eye could see, with the jagged formations of the Fantastic Lava Beds rising ahead. It’s an otherworldly setting, especially in the morning light when the shadows accentuate every texture and ridge.

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After about 2 km, the Cinder Cone came into view - a perfectly symmetrical black dome rising abruptly from the forest, looking almost unreal against the backdrop of green pines and blue sky. The morning was still and silent, and I had the entire landscape to myself; not another hiker in sight. It was one of those rare moments where the scale and solitude of the park really hit me.

Cinder cones like this one form when gas-charged lava is ejected high into the air, cooling and falling back as small fragments called scoria that pile up around the vent. The result is a steep, conical hill of loose volcanic rock - strikingly simple in form but dramatic in appearance. Lassen’s Cinder Cone last erupted around 1666, spewing lava that spread into the Fantastic Lava Beds and leaving behind the vividly coloured Painted Dunes that still surround it today.

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The climb up the cone may be short, but it’s hard work. The trail rises steeply from the base, and the loose volcanic cinders make it a true two steps forward, one step back kind of ascent. Each footfall sinks and slides just enough to test your patience - it’s like hiking up a giant sand dune made of black gravel. The frequent breaks I took to catch my breath doubled as perfect excuses to admire the view - it was one of those climbs where every pause felt earned, and each step brought a bigger payoff. The wind was buffeting near the summit, and the pathway narrowed as it wound up toward the rim, adding a touch of excitement (and a few white-knuckle moments) to the final stretch.

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